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Thread: R8 upgrade project

  1. #101
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    Anyone with any of these cars will confirm that the moment you have had enough of life and you wish to depart earth the easiest way is to just go for a drive at night because you really cant see much in front of the car in a dark area.
    Brett,
    I know sometimes we look for reasons to modify some things and then we will "find" a reason to do so and do it. You have found many and modified many.

    But..........a Gordini has never had bad lights. Never could Valiants or Holdens or Falcons or any Jappa compare to a Gordini or a R8/R10 or a 16TS. The Cibies was miles ahead. The Gordinis was on a par with the modern lights up to maybe a decade ago and that for a car of 30 odd years is very good, and I have now been the owner of mine for 32 years.

    I wont argue the point that you can improve the lights, but that improvement will only be possible with very recent technology.

    Sorry but I just had to defend the Renaults here.

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    Regards
    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  2. #102
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Default Lights !!!

    Brett,
    I like what you have done, just awesome light. But, I agree with Frans. My R10's round and square, had Halogens and relays with big wires, and they would shine for ever. My 16TS's both had the same, and added std Cibie spots were just fantastic on long night trips in S Africa. Only BMW and Mercs had better lights at the time. My lights were always Cibie reflectors.

    The only light replacement that I have seen and used, are the X-Ray reflectors, not available for square Renault. 7" and 5" and they were good with just Halogens, but are available with HID and then they are very good. But as Frans says, that is all very new technology. And may I add very expensive.
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  3. #103
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    Default Some race prep

    Spurred on by supportive comments I was curious as to adding something that would require me to drill / cut the nice non accident damaged R8's shell that had survived some 46 years.

    This want came from the fact that with everything i had modified it was still basically possible for someone in the future to put replacement panels etc on the shell and the car would be back to standard.

    Seems that some windscreen retainers were the go. From past experience i know that if an R8 either rolls or is heavily shunted then the windscreens come out in one piece and become the largest ninja throwing star ever invented.

    So fabbed some aluminium screen retainers out of flat bar - which gave me the opportunity to drill the shell to mount them.

    DRILL + BODY SHELL = COOL.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0862.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0863.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0864.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0866.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0868.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0869.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_0870.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  4. #104
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Default Billet crank!!!

    Brett,
    Contact Steven Swan about billet cranks !!!!

    The windscreen tabs are just eye candy, aren't they. My Dauphine will have them as well.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  5. #105
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    Default Hid legality

    I dont know about NSW but in VIC it is actually illegal to convert to HID lamps unless they are fitted with a self levelling device that is usually mounted on a rear suspension arm or similar and they also have to be fitted with a headlght washing system
    If you've got too much traction, you haven't got enough horse power ...




    .2010 Holden Commodore Ute
    2001 Renault Sport Clio Cup 27 of 85
    1973 Alpine Renault A310/4 1600 VE

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    ok, I'll bite - where did you get a RHD 2.5 rack & how much did it cost? I thought that only LHD ones were available & the 7į pinion entry angle made them unusable. (Thus I used a steering quickener with the standard rack.)

    cheers! Peter
    Question repeated. Peter

  7. #107
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    Default Enthusiasm

    Brett
    I am seriously impressed with what has been achieved in a short space of time. You must have been steady at this every spare moment,what is your secret on the domestic management front
    I hope the next bit of the job also runs to plan and for what its worth I would keep it All Renault you've managed this far
    Farndon Engineering in Coventry England would do you a 1 off crank for about 1500 Quid plus all the dreaded. I tried some of the chinese sources but none of them will do a 1 off they want a minimum of 10 any other madmen out there????

  8. #108
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    Default 2.5 rack.

    Hi Peter,

    will be pulling the rack either this weekend or the next to upgrade to a 10S housing with the more substantial mounts and also to build a rack brace.

    so i will do a build special on it for you as the housing needs mods too.
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  9. #109
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    Default Box is zipped up!

    Hi Steve,


    Thanks for the comments mate, i'm chuffed, my work is more in the quantity basket than the quality one - the only quality part i will have is your g'box. Showcasing the last of your work below!


    Steve has finished the box and it will be here hopefully in less than 2 weeks.


    The work looks great! Check out Steve's site http://www.8gordiniworkshop.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1.html
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-box1.jpg   R8 upgrade project-box2.jpg   R8 upgrade project-box3.jpg   R8 upgrade project-box4.jpg   R8 upgrade project-box5.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  10. #110
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    Hi Peter,

    will be pulling the rack either this weekend or the next to upgrade to a 10S housing with the more substantial mounts and also to build a rack brace.

    so i will do a build special on it for you as the housing needs mods too.
    I'll be interested to read it but still can't work out how you scored a RHD 2.5 rack. Or is the mod to shift the pinion input angle to receive a LHD rack set up - can't see how that could work though? I couldn't & so fitted a steering quickener to get a bit over 2.4:1 & can thoroughly recommend having fewer turns lock to lock. You'll love the quick rack.

    You wouldn't have some late series ROH 4.5x15 safety ridged R10S rims would you? Too narrow for you (& for me on my 4CV or R8 - even though I favour less extreme wheel conversions on these vehicles than you) but they would suit the delicacy of my Djet yet permit TB15 170/65-15 tyres.

    cheers! Peter

  11. #111
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    Default Some more race prep.

    Nothing to really spruik about.

    Got some 4mm laser cut tow hook blanks and just modded them up for the rear and front.

    I am getting some cds tube and will use the bits cut off to make a boltable chassis rail cross brace on the rear tow hooks - this will also form the basis for the rear brace cage.

    Also when running hard an awful lot of heat goes into the starter so i thought i better put a polar wrap on it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0852.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0856.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0854.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0859.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0882.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0883.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_0884.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0887.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0889.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  12. #112
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    Default More Gordini like oil pressure gauge.

    Scored a New Old Stock lot of 2 Jaeger Oil pressure gauges - brand new in box unmarked and perfect that a match for the standard Gordini type gauges (volts, fuel,water).

    The current oil pressure gauge was mechanical (tube type) so a new Jaeger sender / low pressure switch in one, some wiring and all good.

    Got a spare one of these gauges if anyone interested for the cost price $70.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0892.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0893.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0897.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0896.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  13. #113
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    Default Some Tarting ...

    So i wanted an original R8 Gordini 1600 badge which is pretty difficult considering they never existed.

    Not letting that deter me and with the temptation of cutting something that had survived 50 years i was into it.

    Angelo of R8 Dream fame was very kind to donate an original 1100 R8 badge to go with the one i had (mine was very poor).

    Then with some careful cutting, bending, gluing, sanding, painting and general sacrilege it has an original R8 style 1600 badge for the boot that fits nicely to the curve.

    Thanks Angelo!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0915.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0912.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0911.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0913.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0923.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0925.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_0917.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0926.jpg  
    Last edited by brettr; 9th July 2012 at 02:16 PM. Reason: .
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  14. #114
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    Default

    Hi Brett,
    I am glad it went to good use, as I was curious as to what you were going to do with it.
    I am truly impressed with your handy work. Is there anything you cannot do?
    Keep up the inspirational work on the R8!
    Angelo

  15. #115
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    Default All caged up.

    The R8 was in Bond Roll last week for a 6 point cage with main hoop diagonal, door bars and harness bar.

    Even just a 6 point bolt in substantially has stiffened the body - no more does the windscreen or doors move in their jams when cornering hard, driving over driveways, pot holes etc etc.

    Made a quick run to riverstone Autobreakers and grabbed a black R10 seat as even though out of character i didnt want to cut the original R1135 seats (yes top and bottom squabs are different to standard seats and have cut outs for the 5 speed).

    Getting that seat in with the cage bolted in was not easy - it was only put in for noise suppression and will come out later.

    With the cage i resisted the temptation for a/ b pillar gusset bars etc - think it will eventually just crack them out of the car if added and really there is limits to any bolt in installation - if you wanted maximum stiffness get a weld in - or take a couple of viagra.

    Must be time for a log book ....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0930.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0932.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0933.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0935.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0936.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0937.jpg  

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    Last edited by brettr; 11th July 2012 at 04:06 PM. Reason: 1135 gordini seat pics
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  16. #116
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    Default Steering rack brace.

    Made this up on the weekend as about to do some steering work.

    Think this is the best way to brace a standard setup - from the crossmember to the rack centre. It should brace all horizontal rack movement.

    This is in the same style as the meca ones (but they are left hand drive fit only) - i originally had an extra piece of flat bar coming up and T'd so it would also bolt to the boot floor but it just seemed a bit excessive, so cut it off (there really isnt any vertical movement that the original mounting brackets can't hold anyrate).

    Its easy to make up on the R10 test bed when the boot is cut out! It easy to make too, having a press to press the thick walled tube together for the mount is the hard bit

    When installing i think i will use a ubolt around the rack and through the original bolt holes as there is not much alloy in the threads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0910.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0908.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0907.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0906.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0905.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0904.jpg  

    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  17. #117
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    Default 2.5 Turn Steering Rack - Sceptics Special.

    A few people have either been asking or saying it cant be done.

    I had this in an early R8 housing before - any housing / rack can be used for this conversion.

    I will use the mecaparts 9 tooth 2.5 turn pinion and an R10s rack housing as it has a beefier mounting tab / lug (same as Gordini) whereas the early 8's are pretty sparce there.

    Disassemble the rack. Remove the end bearing clips with a screw driver etc.

    Use a small bolt and place the rack in a vice and compress the pressure plunger then remove the circlip and then pressure plate, spring and plunger.

    I will be putting a grease nipple in the bottom pinion bearing housing (same as Gordini) so i drill it out which aids in allowing a punch to help remove the pinion.

    Remove the preload bolt in the centre the rag joint. Then the spline collar bolt and remove assembly.

    Remove all pinion retaining components - in order top circlip, top plate, dig out rubber seal carefully or if you are lucky with pointy nose pliers the centre sleeve, then the bearing retainer circlip, spacer ring - then from the grease nipple hole just drilled tap out pinion.

    Open the inspection plate and to remove the spring collar retaining clips brace a screw driver on one end of the clip then with a 17mm spanner turn the rack to force the retainer to pop off. Do both clips then push the rack out - throw away the return sping, retainers, clips and sleeve.

    Not really necessary to have a return spring - with 8-9 degrees of castor and a bit more weight up front with tank + spare etc it returns acceptably.

    Using a drift tap out from the inside the rack end bearings. Now go thoroughly clean the housing.

    Using the new eccentric end bearings the rack will run much lower in the case - in this position it will hit the housing and it will required some grinding of the housing's innards to make room. It doesnt require a lot but some of the relief is far enough inside the housing for it to be a pain in the bum - i used a dremel for up in those areas. You can see in the pics where to relieve but use the new end bushes and the rack and keep testing until you have it ok - don't go nuts, remove only what is necessary.

    When you have it correct its time to assemble the rack portion - so insert the new eccentric bearings with some grease to allow them to turn - use the case casting marks knock them in so the rack runs the furthest away from the pinion - they should be identical in there rotation to each other - but you will be tweaking these later.

    Time to insert the plunger as you want to make all your next moves with the rack under pressure. But first measure how much closer the rack is to the plunger and grind off that amount from the plunger spring as if you leave it cause you think its cool with more pressure it will just break the alloy away where the circlip is.

    So now mod time - French LHD pinions run at different angle to RHD's, the actual rack part # is the same so we know the pitch of the mesh is ok. It is the entry angle in the horizontal plane that is incorrect - one pic shows this, the two gears in mesh with the rack and the differing output angles.

    The bearing sits very close to the pinion so the obvious solution is to mod this bearings location to allow for the correct angle.

    I did a bag load of drawings and calcs (i did mech eng but these bloody spiral cut gears do my head in) and the required pinion bearing movement is .274mm. It doesnt sound like much - so to test the theory i assemble the rack with the 9 tooth pinion as is - it hard to get together and is notchy as the incorrect mesh can be felt - this is a good start though.

    The best way to visualise this is to put the pinion in with no bearing place the outer plate on it and hold the pinion into good mesh and you can see the offset direction / amount etc.

    One pic shows this - i sprayed the plate black and you can see direction offset sort of.

    The bearing in this second hand rack was not real trick on my pinion - its not like a wheel bearing but i got a new one anyrate - the new bearing had the same number but the inner diameter was bigger so i machined a small collar (thats why the new pinion looks bigger around the bearing but its not).

    I set out to remove this material from the outer circumference of the bearing shell - a semi circle worth with the centre of the arc having the .3 odd mm removed tapering down to 0 at the edges of the arc.

    Taking approx .1 with the grinder each time and continually measuring i check stop and reassemble each time and check the mesh - at approx .275 it feels great. You can also tweak your end bearings to get everything "nice".

    0.1mm increments make a huge diff each time so go slow.

    I also used the the original bottom plain bearing (instead of the supplied new one) as it will already have a small amount of wear which will allow the pinion movement up top.

    The angle of where the slimmed part of the bearing runs is not where you would expect it - but that the mystery of helix / spiral cut gears etc and i dont wont to go into theory that i dont really know well enough. Play around with different areas until you have it at best mesh - which when under plunger load should be tight and very very mildly notchy.

    To take up the slack now existent in the housing i peen / stake the area where the unground portion of the bearing will sit.

    Before final assembly i drill the housing where the bearing sits and tap it and grub screw the bearing in - i also loctite the bearing in place - all to prevent possible rotation.

    Then assemble in reverse - i then drill and tap the new end case rack bearings and grub screw them - you could just whack some pop rivets etc instead but also do loctite them in final. You will not need the bottom pinion spacer as the helix is longer on the 9 tooth gear - put it on a chain and wear it around your neck as a momento of your conversion.

    Put your rag joint / collar assembly back on - put the spline bolt in but do not tighten, then preload first to about "nice" ftlbs then do the spline collar bolt up tight.

    Then grease that baby up and enjoy.

    Incase anyone was wondering in the old assembly i used some cut down end bearings to knock the last little bit of lock off the steering to make sure my Clio calipers didnt hit the body - on this iteration i have cut down some valve spring inners which make a nice soft ending to full lock and prevent the last 8mm of rack travel.

    It has about 2.3 turns lock to lock with the restrictors - same as the evo 10.

    Remember i am just a humble florist - i have no idea what i am doing with mechanics - so dont try this at home!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_1004.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1007.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1009.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1011.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1013.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1014.jpg  

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    Last edited by brettr; 6th August 2012 at 01:06 PM. Reason: ..
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  18. #118
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    A few people have either been asking or saying it cant be done.

    I had this in an early R8 housing before - any housing / rack can be used for this conversion.

    I will use the mecaparts 9 tooth 2.5 turn pinion and an R10s rack housing as it has a beefier mounting tab / lug (same as Gordini) whereas the early 8's are pretty sparce there.

    Disassemble the rack. Remove the end bearing clips with a screw driver etc.

    Use a small bolt and place the rack in a vice and compress the pressure plunger then remove the circlip and then pressure plate, spring and plunger.

    I will be putting a grease nipple in the bottom pinion bearing housing (same as Gordini) so i drill it out which aids in allowing a punch to help remove the pinion.

    Remove the preload bolt in the centre the rag joint. Then the spline collar bolt and remove assembly.

    Remove all pinion retaining components - in order top circlip, top plate, dig out rubber seal carefully or if you are lucky with pointy nose pliers the centre sleeve, then the bearing retainer circlip, spacer ring - then from the grease nipple hole just drilled tap out pinion.

    Open the inspection plate and to remove the spring collar retaining clips brace a screw driver on one end of the clip then with a 17mm spanner turn the rack to force the retainer to pop off. Do both clips then push the rack out - throw away the return sping, retainers, clips and sleeve.

    Not really necessary to have a return spring - with 8-9 degrees of castor and a bit more weight up front with tank + spare etc it returns acceptably.

    Using a drift tap out from the inside the rack end bearings. Now go thoroughly clean the housing.

    Using the new eccentric end bearings the rack will run much lower in the case - in this position it will hit the housing and it will required some grinding of the housing's innards to make room. It doesnt require a lot but some of the relief is far enough inside the housing for it to be a pain in the bum - i used a dremel for up in those areas. You can see in the pics where to relieve but use the new end bushes and the rack and keep testing until you have it ok - don't go nuts, remove only what is necessary.

    When you have it correct its time to assemble the rack portion - so insert the new eccentric bearings with some grease to allow them to turn - use the case casting marks knock them in so the rack runs the furthest away from the pinion - they should be identical in there rotation to each other - but you will be tweaking these later.

    Time to insert the plunger as you want to make all your next moves with the rack under pressure. But first measure how much closer the rack is to the plunger and grind off that amount from the plunger spring as if you leave it cause you think its cool with more pressure it will just break the alloy away where the circlip is.

    So now mod time - French LHD pinions run at different angle to RHD's, the actual rack part # is the same so we know the pitch of the mesh is ok. It is the entry angle in the horizontal plane that is incorrect - one pic shows this, the two gears in mesh with the rack and the differing output angles.

    The bearing sits very close to the pinion so the obvious solution is to mod this bearings location to allow for the correct angle.

    I did a bag load of drawings and calcs (i did mech eng but these bloody spiral cut gears do my head in) and the required pinion bearing movement is .274mm. It doesnt sound like much - so to test the theory i assemble the rack with the 9 tooth pinion as is - it hard to get together and is notchy as the incorrect mesh can be felt - this is a good start though.

    The best way to visualise this is to put the pinion in with no bearing place the outer plate on it and hold the pinion into good mesh and you can see the offset direction / amount etc.

    One pic shows this - i sprayed the plate black and you can see direction offset sort of.

    The bearing in this second hand rack was not real trick on my pinion - its not like a wheel bearing but i got a new one anyrate - the new bearing had the same number but the inner diameter was bigger so i machined a small collar (thats why the new pinion looks bigger around the bearing but its not).

    I set out to remove this material from the outer circumference of the bearing shell - a semi circle worth with the centre of the arc having the .3 odd mm removed tapering down to 0 at the edges of the arc.

    Taking approx .1 with the grinder each time and continually measuring i check stop and reassemble each time and check the mesh - at approx .275 it feels great. You can also tweak your end bearings to get everything "nice".

    0.1mm increments make a huge diff each time so go slow.

    I also used the the original bottom plain bearing (instead of the supplied new one) as it will already have a small amount of wear which will allow the pinion movement up top.

    The angle of where the slimmed part of the bearing runs is not where you would expect it - but that the mystery of helix / spiral cut gears etc and i dont wont to go into theory that i dont really know well enough. Play around with different areas until you have it at best mesh - which when under plunger load should be tight and very very mildly notchy.

    To take up the slack now existent in the housing i peen / stake the area where the unground portion of the bearing will sit.

    Before final assembly i drill the housing where the bearing sits and tap it and grub screw the bearing in - i also loctite the bearing in place - all to prevent possible rotation.

    Then assemble in reverse - i then drill and tap the new end case rack bearings and grub screw them - you could just whack some pop rivets etc instead but also do loctite them in final. You will not need the bottom pinion spacer as the helix is longer on the 9 tooth gear - put it on a chain and wear it around your neck as a momento of your conversion.

    Put your rag joint / collar assembly back on - put the spline bolt in but do not tighten, then preload first to about "nice" ftlbs then do the spline collar bolt up tight.

    Then grease that baby up and enjoy.

    Incase anyone was wondering in the old assembly i used some cut down end bearings to knock the last little bit of lock off the steering to make sure my Clio calipers didnt hit the body - on this iteration i have cut down some valve spring inners which make a nice soft ending to full lock and prevent the last 8mm of rack travel.

    It has about 2.3 turns lock to lock with the restrictors - same as the evo 10.

    Remember i am just a humble florist - i have no idea what i am doing with mechanics - so dont try this at home!
    very nice read in response to my queries, thank you. i suspect that getting the same result (ok 2.4) using a 1.5:1 steering quickener reduction gearbox in the shaft and a standard rack is an easier route though.

    cheers! peter

  19. #119
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    Default Steering Rack - Mount flex fix.

    I have mostly solved the side to side movement in the rack with the top brace but i could still feel it wasnt as accurate as it should be.

    I taped an old phone under the front facing the rack and did a quick lap around the street on video record and it showed the rack moving in a rotary fashion - to describe it best the ends of the rack move forward and backward as the whole area flexes under load. The top brace controls lateral movement but still allows a pivot moment around it.

    So the best solution i could think was to construct some bracing running off the cross members tie rod.

    The brackets are slightly angled to also aide in side movement and the only consideration to take into account when doing a system like this is to make sure the final product can be installed as one piece.

    I also constructed a brace bar to stiffen the lower mounting bracket - it isnt going anywhere now and the steer feel is excellent - its a big difference when loaded in a corner.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_1055.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1052.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1056.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1057.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1059.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1060.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_1065.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1066.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  20. #120
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    I taped an old phone under the front facing the rack and did a quick lap around the street on video record and it showed the rack moving in a rotary fashion
    Must have been a rotary dial phone then?
    (I'll get back to work now).
    KB


  21. #121
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Hydro Handbrake

    I'm not a fan of small hydro h'brakes - neither of ones that are not close to the steering wheel - i really like ones that sit in the vertical plane next to the wheel.

    With the gear shift mod it was impossible to get a good mount area so even though not my pref i went to right side mount - using the door bar of the cage works well and the u bolt mounting system allows for position adjustment.

    Had some braided lines fabbed up to spec as it is quite a run back to the main rear line so didnt want to allow for any pressure flex and also the braiding makes the lines tougher in an environment where they are being brushed and rubbed as seats slide and people get in and out etc.

    It was a trick little combination of angled banjo connectors to keep the profile down too.

    These long flex lines also allow the main lever pivot bolt to be pulled, the 4 u-bolt nuts to come off then the unit can be stowed out of sight under the drivers seat for rego etc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_1039.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1041.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1042.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1043.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1047.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1050.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_1051.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_1081.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0941.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0942.jpg  
    Last edited by brettr; 10th August 2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: .
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  22. #122
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    A few people have either been asking or saying it cant be done.

    I had this in an early R8 housing before - any housing / rack can be used for this conversion.

    I will use the mecaparts 9 tooth 2.5 turn pinion and an R10s rack housing as it has a beefier mounting tab / lug (same as Gordini) whereas the early 8's are pretty sparce there.
    Wonderful description for which many thanks. I definitely won't try that one at home!

    I reckon you could sell those modified racks, now you have a feel for doing it...
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  23. #123
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    How's the blue rocket going Brett?
    cheers,

    John

  24. #124
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    very nice read in response to my queries, thank you. i suspect that getting the same result (ok 2.4) using a 1.5:1 steering quickener reduction gearbox in the shaft and a standard rack is an easier route though.


    cheers! peter

    just completed my conversion using the 1.5:1 Coleman Steering quickener and thought I would share some of the effort with those that had queried the conversion compared to the method used by BrettR. I think it was relatively easy and not that expensive. Purchased the quickener from a Porsche parts distributor in Sydney. I should end up with a 2.5:1 ratio. It turns very freely and smooth.
    Angelo


    R8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpgR8 upgrade project-image.jpg.R8 upgrade project-image.jpg

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    just completed my conversion using the 1.5:1 Coleman Steering quickener and thought I would share some of the effort with those that had queried the conversion compared to the method used by BrettR. I think it was relatively easy and not that expensive. Purchased the quickener from a Porsche parts distributor in Sydney. I should end up with a 2.5:1 ratio. It turns very freely and smooth.
    Angelo
    Neat work. Thanks for sharing the photos.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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