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Thread: R8 upgrade project

  1. #76
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    Default The R8 got a Trophy!

    a little bit wanky but it got 3rd place at the Oakville Fire Brigade Classic Car Open day out of a couple of hundred vehicles!

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    ofcourse i was the only Renault there with all the other car clubs there in force.
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  2. #77
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    Default The Big Sticky Rear Project Part II

    Grind the tack welds down to be flat.

    Beat all to shape - you dont want too much filler - for areas of excess steel (bulges etc) heat with a blow torch and touch with a wet rag to contract the steel.

    Strip the guard of paint and old filler and rubbish.

    Next up is run a thin layer of fibreglass around the inside of the flared area to make a base for the filler.

    No need to weld in all the shape allowing cuts - these will provide and excellent key for the filler.

    I use Plastibond to make the first run of "shape". The shit sets like concrete (its very hard to work) but it makes a great base to do the final lightweight filler run. Do you filler run and prep down to "nice".

    Spray putty two nice coats and lay a guide coat down then block back at 240 wd soapy.

    2 more spray putty's and another guide and block back at 600 wd soapy.

    Prep done and ready to spray.

    Took a guard down and got a paint match done. Sprayed a whole wall in the garage trying to get my gun "right" then layed down 4 odd coats.

    Nice nice shine off the gun but then blocked it down with 1200 wd soapy and then cut and polish with the polisher. Stickered, prep'd some trims by cutting / grinding them up to shape and the guards go on.

    I will prepsol these down in the future and whack some clear coats over - paint colour is right but this will match the other paint on the car better in appearance.

    Its a pretty wild look - not many will like it but i sort of do and truthfully if your idea of enjoyment is one of these cars with the stock 135's etc then i am sure you are probably still struggling with the change to decimal currency.
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  3. #78
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    Default Downforce Project Part II

    The aim was to cut a bit of the air going under and provide a mounting point for the caliper cooling ducts.

    I had wanted to build it in aluminium to be light and have the riveted on "stock car" racer look but still have some lines about it.

    Not sure if it is what i thought it would be.

    In any case an aluminium frame was constructed and then sheet aluminium applied and shaped over the frame.

    If nothing it certainly makes the car look tough i spose, but it is functional - and easily removed (albeit filling 5 rivet holes int he front guards each side).
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  4. #79
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Default

    Sonnofabitch!
    Those rear guards look great (is FAT the correct teenager slang term for it?). It certainly looks FAT from the rear!

    I can't believe you've done all that and got it finished since I was there last.

    KB
    KB


  5. #80
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    Default Roll Cage is coming.

    Hi Jensen,

    Went up to see Bond Roll the other day and that project is coming in very soon - i just want to do some shell mods first so everything will be in its final place first time.

    Will be nice to not see daylight appear through the door jams when you load it up into a corner.....

    BR

  6. #81
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    Default

    The correct term for those guards would be PHAT! Great stuff.

    Good choice on the cage.

    What motorsport are you planning to do in it?
    2002 Monaco Blue Renaultsport Clio 172
    1975 R1317 Renault 17 Gordini

  7. #82
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    Default Ignition Project

    The original coil was tired - a bit of water or overtly rich mixture and it would foul plugs.

    So i put in a Valeo Competition coil and an Ignition 123 electronic distributor and a set of Bosch platinum plugs.

    The 123 distributor is very cool - the old distributor was rooted - sloppy shaft and counter weights all over the place etc etc - everyone who has one knows what im talking about.

    This one comes with 16 different selectable curves for a start and after alot of testing and rooting around im using curve 12 (36deg max advance i think it was - i do have the rpm specs somewhere) and i am also getting the best results using the vacuum advance in reverse (as its on the engine side of the butterfly on the webers).

    I also marked out a new TDC on the flywheel and have recently re dregreed the bell housing so i can actually see what is going on with a timing light.

    In any case the engine runs unreal now - it actually feels completely different.
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  8. #83
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    Default

    Nice work Brett, when do you get to sleep?

  9. #84
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    Default Engine Bay Tidy Up.

    I decided to depipe the bay and just make it a bit neater.

    Not a hard job but i had to bend the weber banjo connections to about 45deg so they would run down under the carbs.

    Also while making a bit more of a showy'er engine bay i bought some stainless carb screens.

    Cool.
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    Last edited by brettr; 25th May 2012 at 02:56 PM. Reason: pics

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Nice work Brett, when do you get to sleep?
    hahahaha... yes, I want some of what he's on, three years on my project and Brett makes me look like I'm slacking - nice work Brett, nasty but I love it

    Q. The coil you have used is OK with the 123 ignition?

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  11. #86
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    Default what you do to your OWN CAR

    Brett your are a friggin legend

  12. #87
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    Default Replies and a Video

    59F, hello mate, yes pretty flat out between work, travel, kids, a wife, 3 mistresses and an R8.

    Jensen - not sure, not sure what i will be allowed in now - even Bond said the cage has to be full weld in to go in targa from 2012 so that would make it not a road car anymore and not willing to do that.

    GB - hello mate, yes been looking at your DS as comes along - i always had a soft spot for the DS, they just oozed cool. The coil is ok with the 123 - it just had be below a certain ohmage - have the figure if you want me to chase it.

    If you want to hear the process of obtaining industrial deafness heres a link to a 0-75mph video of my R8 changing at 8+K (not a real good vid by the way).

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIyAr...hannel&list=UL

    BR

  13. #88
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    Default Suspension Part 3

    Running a 9" rear rim and 245 rubber adds a fairly considerable load to the the rear bearings.

    Not a "just immediately fail load" but greatly accelerated wear towards imminent fail.

    In comparison to the design rear track i reckon i have added some 18" from outside edge to outside edge over the standard 135's and atleast probabaly 500% increase in rear end "stick". The moment load from such an extension is considerable.

    So what is the solution - not only to increase the load carrying ability of the rear bearing but also to spread the load across the "carried" portion of the axle - only "standard" upgrade available is to an 8 ball race design from 7.

    Solution is to CNC a nice 7'75 aluminium bearing carrier - close to a replica of the original but omit the carrier area for the rear bearing seal and a few other tweaks.

    This allows for a much wider double roller bearing to be used which is sealed.

    To accomodate this extra width i machined and deburred 4mm off my rear hub faces - which as you can see still doesnt interfere with where the axle spline starts.

    Double row is double nice.
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  14. #89
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    BrettR,
    What's with the "Dealer Team Vauxhall" decal on the doors?
    A bit of nostalgia from a previous life in the UK ?

    Overall a great piece of work.

  15. #90
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    Default Many Much More Brakes Project

    I just wasnt 100% happy with the "feel" the brakes were producing. Other people drove it and raved about them - and it will virtually put you through the window it stops that hard BUT i have been trying to make the R8 "feel" like the Evo 10 (i know, stupid).

    Biggest problem is the "cold" feel of the pads / discs - still stops great but being a race pad they needed to be up a little bit in temp to produce that great feel - i must admit in spirited driving the brakes came alive with the meca discs / calipers (38mm in the rear), mintex pads and the twin revalved uprated boosters.

    And apart from anything else that full floating caliper rattle on bumps drives me crazy.

    So what to do in your spare time - how about using the Renault brakes from the 1.8 16v / 2.0 16v Williams Clio - even Megane 1 up to 03 used these brakes.

    Nice spec on them for a conversion.

    259mm diameter discs (R8 260mm), 41mm disc height, 21mm disc thickness, vented, cross drilled and slotted (standard vented but the OMP's i got had the extra's) - and the caliper piston is 48mm.

    Clio hub diameter 61mm - R8 hub diameter is 60mm.

    With the caliper bracket in a straight plane with the hub mount the disc still needs some 3.5 odd mm spacing to work with the caliper - PLUS as above there is 1mm diff in the R8 hub to disc hub dim so i machine up a spacer with a half mm thickness disc mounting bore lip - this is made from 4340 steel (want to ensure the hub / disc always acts as one unit and thought even 7 75 alu might not like being .5mm thick for this purpose).

    Drill the discs / spacers to suit the hubs - it is poss to not hit an existing bolt hole - take note that renault's original 3 holes in the hub are not exactly evenly spaced at 120 degs! Looks all "nice" and standard from the hub viewing point.

    Clio calipers are the same for the range even on the 239mm discs - its the carrier brackets that are different (need TRW part BDA198).

    The unsprung weight differential between standard and this setup is about 3.4kg - this weighting method includes the stub axle.

    Old setup = 9.9kg

    New setup = 13.3kg

    This is considerable respresenting a 30+% increase and requires increases in rebound dampening etc to match.

    I will also now move to do something with my setup to strengthen / brace the area due to the increased carried weight and increased braking force etc - most likely i will box in the top a-arm and put new hard bushes.

    No body wants more unsprung kg's but i spose its still a pretty light setup in the first place and still by modern standards is not really that heavy? I dont know what other vehicles come in at?

    Topped it off with some EBC Green Stuff pads.

    This should clear virtually all 13's / standards etc - it may need a slight grind tweak maybe - my Mad'ins fitted on no probs.

    Took it for a long run to lithgow and bedded in the pads / discs then started tooling around with the bias valve front / rear again.

    After getting the bias right the braking "feel" is very similar to the evo now and it will repeatedly give you out of this world stops - also no rattling calipers - all in all just a better design and a vast range of exotic discs / pad compounds for this setup - double advantage is that kits exist to put on huge calipers / discs for this Clio / Megane model which means they will just "fit on" now.

    I really do have to mention that with the tyres up to temp after quite a few stops and the brakes at temp too and after the final correcting of the bias valve (and with her new rear shoes - the avon 245 rears) i couldnt repeatedly hold myself in the chair with the steering wheel i had to put on the harness (dont wear it on the street) for the final testing because it really is that violent in its stoping - and so a car should be!

    Even though frontal weight transfer occurs during braking i think also the secret to getting the braking really good is get more weight up the front of an 8/10 (dont add it, shift it up there) - if it starts too light in the front even with the transfer it wil lock the front wheels too early and forget getting good braking.

    In this testing the rear 38mm meca calipers / discs and mintex race pads held up well in the combo (they are majorly ducted though so they should) - there was no fade out of the entire setup and i was punishing the hell out of them - basically i wasted one of my tyres heat cycles just fine tuning the brakes bias!

    Remember - i dont know what i am doing, so please stick with your standard Hydrokid calipers, cross ply 135's, a tweed coat and bowls hat.
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  16. #91
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    Default Fuel Tank Replacement and Spare Tyre Mount

    The tank in the boot the car came with was not ideally mounted or sized in many ways.

    It really was a ticking time bomb - it was touching the front headlight buckets - not good for a front end stack at all considering the proximity of the battery and wiring etc etc.

    Then i filled up and started driving home from work and the fuel consumption seemed high - upon getting home i went back down tot he garage and could smell fuel.

    There was a large lump of bog the last owner had put on the tank underneath to fix a long split and it had fallen off.

    I wasnt really ready to replace the tank with my final one so as a quick fix i thought i would do what i used to do in the late 80's / 90's when i had no money to mod these cars.

    It is very easy to put the original tank in the front of the car against plenum panel.

    In every way the tank seems almost deisgned to do this - its angled rear and stepped base makes a perfect fit and doesnt reduce the boot space too much. In this position it is higher than ideal but not moreso than in its rear position and it sits basically over the front axle.

    I took the tank from the R10 that i have just parted out and it is full of rust.

    Put a handful of 50 cents piece in it and seal it back up and strap it to the barrel of a cement mixer and put it on for about 2 hours.

    This will de rust the inside. Pour out of all the flakes. Stick about a 1kg of draino in the tank and add some water and let it boil (this does all the seam areas).

    Wash out - cut the original filler neck potion off the filler tube - holesaw a hole in the top of the tank - braze on. Cut the filler neck tube atatched to the tank down shorter and you can use and original radiator cap off a 8 / 10 as it is the perfect size - braze it on.

    I took the opportunity to drill and braze in a vent line in the center of the tank and also prep'd it for the new engine fitting a more substantial fuel feed line and a fuel injection return line.

    To make the tank "nice" for the fit put a bolt in the centre mount then fold the mount down as flush as you can - use the handle end of a lump hammer and work along the seam - you almost want to slightly concave the tank as the plenum is slightly convex - drill the plenum to match where the bolt will enter. The front seam is up to you - i bend mine over as it allows the maximum room for a spare to fit in the front when using an 1135 front panel.

    I used a period seat belt (from the R10) bolted to the floor to hold my spare in.

    Grab the original mounting brackets and persuade them to the appropriate angles to match the boot floor / tank (in the vice then just bend them by hand).

    Finally while finishing the tank i decide to give it a groovy paint job - which turned out up the shit as my dog ate my masking tape roll after the first paint run and the other masking tape i used didnt like the enamel and wilted when i sprayed!

    This is an ultra cheap weight relocation project - the only other things needed is to run a fuel line from front to rear and extend the wiring for the fuel sender rear to front.

    Apart from the better weight balance the other best bit is it removes the propensity for these cars to spill fuel on the engine catch on fire.

    If you think i am an idiot doing these things then i agree with you.
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  17. #92
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    Default 807 Engine Build

    And so it begins,

    After spending an afternoon perched up on the second car height (standing on an engine on the ground) at Riverstone Autobreakers i managed to remove the engine from a R17.

    Mounted up on the engine stand and pull it down.


    This engine had obviously been going for a while without an oil change - it was very sludgey.

    Funnily enough when i pulled the sump plug nothign came out - then sticking my finger in there it started a small pour of about 200ml. I thought well this thing will have a crank problem etc.

    But it seems sitting at the wreckers for 20 odd years and with so much carbon in the oil that when i pulled the sump it was full of oil but it had turned to jelly.

    Playing with the jelly and moving then seemed to return it slowly to very carbony oil - never seen that before.

    Anyrate all stripped and ready for major power rebuild.

    Crank is the problem though - i want this engine to turn about 220 - 230HP, and limited to 7K rpm.

    But everyone is telling me the crank will fail etc. Rods and pistons will be forged so no probs there. But do i go to the expense of getting a custom billet crank made?

    Seems easier really just to put in another engine, maybe i go back to the hayabusa engine / mx5 rear end and finish that?
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  18. #93
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    Default 807 Engine Power Build

    So its good to know where you are going and what you are doing before you build.

    Meaning your complete build approach and what parts you will be using as every item affects another.

    If i continue to go down the 807 path this engine will receive the best of everything and also some modernisation of the original bits. I am now currently trying to find someone who is willing to machine up a billet crank for me - problem is i mention the word "Renault" and the phone goes click (seems unless it is ricer or 500CID V8 no one gives a rats date).

    I'm 50% of the way there on settling on engine "make up" but here's some of my valve train components so far.

    "nice".
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  19. #94
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    Default Suspension Part 4

    As i said i thought it prudent to strenthen the front setup now - with big sticky tyres and big brakes it really load the arms considerably over standard.

    The top a-arms are the target - they are particularly flimsy.

    So i strip them down - remove the ball joint and press out the bushes.

    Give them a bit of a clean and then weld in some molded reinforcement plates over the top.

    DO NOT WELD IN A CONSTANT STREAM. The steel is so flimsy if you over heat it it will warp the arm.

    Tack weld them tight down on the a-arm and then alternatively move around welding in between tacks in different areas - moving between arms allowing cooling time.

    A quick paint, press in some new "hard" aftermarket bushes, a new set of ball joints and install.

    Do not tighten your top pin until the car is back down on its wheels and at resting height (same theory as the rear tie rod bushes here).

    Should make a marked difference to the front end.
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  20. #95
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    Default Brakes Part 4

    So the Clio calipers are great - unless you turn to full lock and then the brake hose would strike the chassis rail.

    R8's have a very small turning radius due to the fact that the extemeties of lock run at a high angle.

    Couple this to a bigger caliper and a caliper that the hose entry angle is biased towards the body and it hits.

    So i have had some new brake lines made using a banjo style connector on the caliper end and had them extended to a total length of 410mm tip to tip.

    Normally the brake hose on Clio calipers seals on a taper below the base of the threads - i just draw filed mine flat and used two copper crush washers with the banjo fitting.

    So that relieves a little of the space required.

    What is the other solutions?

    1) i "relieved" the chasis rail area with a sledge hammer - just a bit, its ok, covered in rubberised spray and tar you wouldnt know.
    2) i used the bushes from the rack when i put in the fast ratio kit and cut one down to make two small shims and put it over the ends rack which limits the full lock by a tiny bit.
    3) cut the bleeders down to the bolt hex so no tube tip.
    4) grind the banjo / caliper down.

    This has done the trick - it was worst at full droop at opposite lock which will occur in a slide.

    While in there i made some new brackets for the caliper cooling ducts, attached them and have the ducting ready to through mount into the front air dam - nice!
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  21. #96
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    I like it Brett, keep it coming...

  22. #97
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Grafton/NSW/Australia/GOD'S COUNTRY
    Posts
    698

    Default R17 Crank

    Brett try stan Sainty he builds the sainty quad cam top fuel motors and has at different times made cams for odball motors such as V12 ferarri's
    Cheers Peter

  23. #98
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    481

    Default Brakes Part 5

    Didnt have any time on the weekend until i got back Sunday night so i finished up the brake caliper ducting.

    Using Bunnings PVC reducers to act as collector intakes to mate to the flex scat tubing.

    So much cheaper than going to the race shop and paying $300 for something similar!

    Did the oval shape cut outs in the from airdam and mounted them in - they will do the job well and although not necessary on a car this light they could always be fitted with water mist'ers for additional cooling.

    I will have to pull them out and repaint - even stealing the wifes hair dryer and blasting them didnt make then dry quick enough so they look a bit pukey.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0835.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0832.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0833.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  24. #99
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    481

    Default 5 speed with LSD

    Facing the facts the Renault 4 speed is not strong and in my car is a burn out special to 110mph where it is doing about 8K rpm in 4th.

    So i asked Steve Swan in the UK if he would source / build a stronger 5 speed gearbox for me.

    Basic ingredients are a 16TX box, 330 casings, swing arm spacers to accomodate the wider diff, a quaife gear driven LSD and stronger 25 spline serviceable uni's.

    Steve really is a top bloke and his work is outstanding.

    He just sent me the progress pics so here they are and the box should be ready in 2 weeks!

    5 speed = 5 x nice.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-003.jpg   R8 upgrade project-005.jpg   R8 upgrade project-006.jpg   R8 upgrade project-007.jpg   R8 upgrade project-008.jpg   R8 upgrade project-009.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-010.jpg   R8 upgrade project-012.jpg   R8 upgrade project-013.jpg   R8 upgrade project-014.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

  25. #100
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    481

    Default Some more light

    Anyone with any of these cars will confirm that the moment you have had enough of life and you wish to depart earth the easiest way is to just go for a drive at night because you really cant see much in front of the car in a dark area.

    This coupled with the fact that i am a die hard butcher of classic car parts i searched for a headlight upgrade that would allow me to cut / shut / defile / butcher etc etc anything that still resembled originality on my car.

    You cant beat new HID lights, cooler running with huge instant light outputs etc - just how to fit?

    Cut the original cans to allow the bulb back to fit on the main lights and tap in the H4 inserts i pinched from the R10's headlights before they went in the bin - transforms the bulb holder from Pt45 to H4 (by the way a P45t bulb holder will hold a H4 in place).

    For the inners some other bulb holders pinched from R10 lights and drilled out to H4 allows me to run H4 inners instead of the H1.

    Currently have only single HID beams in the inners but did the H4 thing as i was going to run Hi Lo's in the inners as well and have all 4 lights operate at the same time but after running the lights at in the new guise it is not really worth it - it is seriously like a wall of light from the front of the car - absolutely stunning - and now i can see how i am going to die.

    Last note for HID's - 6000k temp colour is what i got which makes pure white light. After 6000K it starts to turn blue but light output actually falls off. 4-6K best output in HIDs, go for a 3K output if you want the vintage colour look to match the leather elbow patches on your coat.

    Two of the shots below show before and after - then one just low beam then another all lights. really is worth the trouble and expense (plus you get to butcher your car).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8 upgrade project-dsc_0845.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0844.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0846.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0848.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0849.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0851.jpg  

    R8 upgrade project-dsc_0874.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0875.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0876.jpg   R8 upgrade project-dsc_0877.jpg  
    BR

    Building a race car is easy - building a race car that can be road registered is hard.

    For any custom fabrication call Precision One Off Engineering - Sydney 02 4587 8666

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