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Thread: R8 upgrade project

  1. #51
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    Default Ignition Panel Project

    My ignition barrel is a bit dicky and sort of gets stuck occasionally on the start cycle.

    It also is a piggy to turn back around to the off pos and is not really that accessible for quickly trying to start the car etc after a spin / stall etc - especially when strapped into those momo's.

    So i quickly built up a little aluminium plate ignition panel and it also makes a facia plate for the brake proportioning valve - some might say its a bit wanky - and you are probably right but its pretty functional and my 10 year says its looks cool.

    Mentally im probably not more than 10 anyrate so i'm in good company ....

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  2. #52
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    Default Oil Management Project Part 2

    The alloy sump will help cool the oil but under very hard driving in hot conditions i wanted further help.

    I will never run an oil cooler without an oil thermostat - the oil will be too cool and increases bore wear dramatcially as it is not thin enough to squirt / flick onto the bores properly and oil has a designed operating temperature to reduce sludge formation etc etc etc.

    I also wanted to move to a remote filter for two reasons - one is that i can run the filter in the vertical plane and two is that i can fit any size filter i wanted.

    So i bought a whole heap of parts and cobbled together the system in my own style as usual - for some reason nothing off the shelf will do for me.

    I fitted two 3mm thick right angle aluminium bars to not only provide the oil cooler / remote filter mounting points but also to tie the rear upper guards area of the car together as bracing.

    I used a Mocal sandwich plate style oil cooler thermostat and then a remote filter housing on that.

    Braided lines and speedflow connectors top it off - i must admit it is soooo much fun doing braided lines.

    The best part about this setup is that the oil pressure seems to come up almost immediately on start - i think the combination of a vertical filter and also that when the oil cooler drains back into the sump when the engine is off allows an oil level where the pump is submerged but when running the oil level sits below the crank protrusion. Really unsure but it all seems to work very well.

    This gives me an oil capacity in the system of over 5L.

    I also switched to a 20x1.5 thread in the remote filter housing to give me a bit more choice in filters - i think the one it runs now is a Renault 25GTX.

    I suppose if it does nothing else it looks trick?
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  3. #53
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    Nice work Brett keep it coming.

  4. #54
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    Default Oil Management Project Part 3

    Well not really a project but it finishes this area.

    Its just the oil catch can and breather routing and finishing off all the pipe work.

    The catch can just screams jappo bling.

    The engine bay looks quite trick now and is ceratinly a long way from when i started on the car in July.
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  5. #55
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Engine bay looks great.

    I have the same catch can in my car, but a little less bling in natural brushed alloy colour.

    I modified it somewhat by having the input connect to an flared alloy tube jammed into the barb fitting and taking the fumes down to the bottom 1/3 of the can.
    I put some stainless steel wool in the top 1/3 of the can so the fumes need to travel up firstly through plain air then through the wool. A SS clip keeps the mesh in the top 1/3 of the can.
    I got rid of the observation tube and routed a tube from the bottom of the can to a small can below with a ball valve tap to allow the snot to be purged.
    I suppose with an atmospheric vent, it doesn't really matter to how well the can filtres.
    Jo

  6. #56
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    Default Wheels and Tyres Project

    Ok back from O/S so full steam ahead.

    The car had some 1970's period 13x6 AMW's with some dragon brand 205/60 tyres.

    So the first set of wheels ive got is another set of 13x6's - some Mad in's - so i can run some 205/60's and basically look sort of period like.

    I'm going to order another set - these will be a 13 x 6.5 and a 13 x 8.5 then I can run 215/55/13's on the front and 245/50/13 on the rear - this would be the Avon CR500 tyre.

    I had a look at these while getting the Yoko A048R's (in medium comp) and while being obviously moreso towards a wetter compound than the Yoko they are seriously less than 2/3's the weight of the Yoko's so that will be good.

    But before these rears go on i will get a set of the remould rear guards and build the flare to look the same as the fronts - this way i can run the current 6" set with the originals guards and the 245's with the new rear guards. The 215's will fit under the front as is.

    The offset of the wheels or the tyres are obviously a bit wider as i had to give the rear guards a serious amount of rolling with my sons baseball bat - but all good now.

    Centre caps are on another order yet to come with a whole heap of other goodies.
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    Last edited by brettr; 7th November 2011 at 04:21 PM. Reason: pic

  7. #57
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    Default 6" mdin rims

    hi brett, does the 6 " rim and tyre fit under the standard front guard? what is the approx shipping cost from france for 4 rims?
    cheers brian

  8. #58
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    Default Wheel costs landed.

    The cost of the wheels were 254 euros each and the shipping i had a mate at DHL do for me at cost which was $380inc and only took 2 days to arrive.

    The wheels are special order from Mecaparts - they take about 10 days to make to spec (colour, width, offset etc).

    Yoko A048R's were $920 a set fitted. The CR500's were $350 each for the 215's and $450 each for the 245's.

    Also you will not get a 6" rim under the front without a decent flare and rears had a fair roll put into them as well.

    Going to post some general car pics soon and you will see the flare required.
    Last edited by brettr; 8th November 2011 at 12:56 PM. Reason: also..

  9. #59
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    Default Odds and sods project part II

    As before alot of things needed repair, to be added or some more mods. I cant even think of most of the stuff ive done but this is some i spose...

    1) Fitting a choke cable to the Webers made cold starts / cold running great - only prob was trying to find a very long choke cable - the one i eventually got was 110". Made a little alum bracket to hold the actuator just behind the shifter.
    2) Decided to put some new rear shocks instead of the old suzuki front fitted to my rear - i got two new gas DeCarbon shocks off ebay for a suzuki sierra front for $50 a pair and fitted those.
    3) Ground away the plastic from the brake reservoir and made some steel pipe inserts to stop the plastic being crushed by the clamp pressure.
    4) Knocked the door hinges back to place and welded some that needed it.
    5) Redrilled the door stop wheel further off centre and put a bigger pin through it to make the wheel protrude enough again to keep the drivers door open.
    6) New wiper blades - so now i can see how i am going to die.
    7) Modded up the accelerator pedal to allow full throttle with the Webers.
    8) Some additional badging for some reason.
    9) The AMW wheels had some form of plug repair on one wheel but the plugs were flat with no taper (but had tapered nuts holding it on!) so i had to cut one in (these will now be used for a set with dirt tyres).
    10) Redid all the heater / demister control panel so now all levers and switches, heater taps etc all work like the factory intended.
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  10. #60
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    Default The rego project.

    The car went up for rego last week - it got knocked back - only on the count that its brake pedal rubber was almost worn through!

    So a $10 pair of pedal covers for brake and clutch and it is now registered.

    I told him these were the 2L South African Rally Gordini factory specials so he wrote on the blue slip under capacity 2L - which suits me for future mods i have in plan! The RTA had no listing for a1966 Renault 8 Gordini to match it to so it is registered as a 2L 1966 model - sweeeeet.

    I think she looks pretty cool already? it certainly is attracting a large amount of onlookers everywhere i go - but i know some people like their classics the way the factory made them - each to their own, my pref though is something that can give the people standing at the bus stop industrial deafness on a fly by while at the same time sucking the paint off a Toyota Prius.

    So now i am ready to get going on the real stuff - no more taking it easy on mods etc because of a pending blue slip rego inspection - time to get serious .....
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  11. #61
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    Impressive work Brett, can you tell me what the crosses on the lights are in aid of??

  12. #62
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    Default Tape

    Hey 59F,

    Most tracks stipulate taping for any forward facing glass elements (excluding w'screen) - glass breakage and subsequent dropping onto the track from a shunt / rock etc is greatly reduced - not so predominant now on modern cars as many covers are being made of lexan etc.

    Currently for this R8 just another track looking item of fantasy.

    Talk soon mate, BR

  13. #63
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    Default Exhaust Project Part II

    Now that rego is out of the way (was a little worried about the "design check" they perform on unregistered cars now) i can concentrate on bigger better faster stronger.

    I have been looking at a whole heap of engine / gearbox / rear sus combos and i think before going to a complete departure from period renault / R8 stuff i will build a 807 style injected turbo motor aiming at around a mild 250HP.

    Keeping this in mind i needed to spec up a new exhaust that will flow unimpeded and that will connect to the current headers but then give the upgrade path / backwards compat.

    Looking for 3.5" ID all the way i bought a whole heap of exhaust parts of reducers / resonators / mandrel bends / chrome dump pipe tip etc.

    The current headers dump out at 2x2" pipes - this now goes to 2x2" to 3" reducers into a 2x3" collector in, 3.5" out then into a 3.5" mandrel bend into a 3.5" internal diameter (4.3" external) resonator then 3.5" pipe then 3.5" dump tip. Trust me the gas has no resistance.

    Just keep putting pieces on and tack welding as the fit is right then bend up a couple of brackets mounted to the engine mounts (engine side ofcourse) then take it off, weld it all up, quick coat of high temp paints to stop any rust (its just mild steel - i think producers a better note than stainless - and cheaper) then a bit of a customised look by wrapping it with carbon fibre style exhaust wrap.

    Total time until new system fitted, including removing the old can, was about 9 hours and price of parts was about $280.

    First turn of the key it set off the alarm on the Evo so i knew i was on the money. It does sound good though - nice purposeful idle sound - and unreal between 5 and 8K+ rpm - gauranteed to give bystanders a permanent orange afro.

    I dont recommend anyone to do what i do - i just post this up so you can all sit there and shake your heads at me (cause i am a child).

    Anyrate enough waffling ..
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  14. #64
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    Default Some General Pics At Rego Time

    Just thought i'd whack up some general pics of the car at this stage before i get into a whole lot of suspension mods and tuning.

    Its a bit of fun and makes alot of people smile driving it around.
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  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by brettr View Post
    Pretty basic really - just puilled the rack and put in a 2.5 turn rack and pinion (standard 3.7 turns) and new rag joint (the old one just crumbled to pieces), and new ties rods and boots.

    The tie rods were mecaparts parts - now i know the car is lower but not rediculously as the tie rods seemed way to long. At the current ride height the tie rods sit horizontal (at their max width).

    I just took at them with the angle brinder and cut about 15mm off either end and now they are only just ok to get the aligment alright.

    In any event i have a rack height adjuster and rack booster coming which will re correct the angles and also improves steering response (and also recorrect what i did with dropping the steering wheel).
    ok, I'll bite - where did you get a RHD 2.5 rack & how much did it cost? I thought that only LHD ones were available & the 7° pinion entry angle made them unusable. (Thus I used a steering quickener with the standard rack.)

    cheers! Peter

  16. #66
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    Default Rear end fix up project.

    Thought i would post a few updates on the 8. If you are bored already i suggest you dont read on and go back a page to thoroughly enjoy reading about someone reco'ing a cylinder head.

    Renewed all the rear end rubbers - so gearbox sides and top and also the tie rod rubbers.

    The box had sagged putting alot of neg camber on the rear and also the tie rod rubbers on one side had de-vulcanised off the steel which made for some interesting on / off throttle lane changes.

    If anyone doesnt know the correct procedure for changing these tie rod rubbers you must first mark the relationship of the tie rod to its mount when the car is at its resting height. Use liquid paper etc and draw a line from the tie rod onto the mount. Then jack it up etc pull it apart.

    I am not talking about the hex nut end - that is for the rear end alignment (you should mark that too for orientation during disassembly if you are happy with your current rear end alignment).

    The rubber is captive in its housing (which is a press fit) and its under rotary compression as the suspension moves in and out - if you put the new ones in not at the vehicles resting height one of two things will probably happen - 1) you will accentuate the wear rate of the rubber - 2) you will over rotary compress the rubber on a suspension stroke and it will fail quickly.

    When you reassemble realign your drawn lines and then torque down the nuts to "pretty tight"ft lbs.

    People may disagree with this method - but i am not asking people to do what i do - infact if you feel strongly about it i suggest you go sit infront of a D Special and have someone operate the steering wheel so you can be mesmerized by the moving headlights.

    Do yourself a favour and take the engine out to do the gearbox mounts - it would be a nightmare otherwise.

    Bringing the gearbox back up does have the affect of widening you top of tyre track arc. I needed another extreme amount of baseball bat guard rolling to make the already fitting tyre / wheel combination to fit again.

    I also took the opportunity to fix my clutch while apart - some paperwork with the car showed it had a brand new clutch (and it clamped well) but it was super heavy and would never properly disengage - but this is what happens when you put a late model pressure plate with an early model release bearing - idiots.

    The other opportunity was to duct a cold air pickup from under the axle to the carbs.

    And fit a new electric low pressure fuel pump suited to the webers.
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  17. #67
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    Where's the flared rear guards and rear wing?

    Keep the updates coming. Been a long time since I stared into the headlights of a DS!

    KB
    KB


  18. #68
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    Default Suspension Project

    The vehicle had cut front coils when i got it and a set of rears sagged enough that they matched the cut set of fronts.

    Some people probably like the cut front coil feel - it is definetly stiff, it feels like the coil is made out of Viagra.

    Upon closer inspection of the coil the last owners first attempt of cutting the coil involved removing two coils, realising it was too short, then cutting one of the coils out of the two removed and brazing one back on! Amazing stuff and it shows how light the front of an R8 is that they didnt break.

    New set of coils it is - Mecaparts ones. 240mm rear and 225mm front. I think normally the 215mm front would match the 240mm rear in ride height. Forget the 200mm unless you want to circuit / drag race (i bought them first off).

    I do have alot of weight in the front of my car compared to normal though - i just went to the weighbridge and with 15 odd litres of petrol i have a 780kg car with 460kg rear / 320kg front. 41/59 weight split which is not as rear biased as a GT3 at 61.5% - anyone know of the standard cars weight split?

    I will also be moving my water header tank, fuel pumps and waterpump (going electric) up to the front boot.

    So it has new Koni shocks now at about 75% of max rebound dampening.

    The rear was slightly above the front ride height so i made a 9mm spring spacer at the base of the spring in the rear out of hard compression rubber - works well and sits right now.

    The car is compliant - the ride 100 times better but body roll is bugger all.
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  19. #69
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    Default Flares and Wings.

    Hi KB,

    Seriously why would someone destroy a classic car by doing terrible things to it like big flares and wings!

    Those updates are coming soon as i work through the pics on the phone etc from the last 4 odd months.

    Talk soon mate,

    BR

  20. #70
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    Default Suspension Part II Project

    Front Camber kit was required.

    Somehow someone before me had decided to slot the front crossmember on the passengers side only.

    Where they circuit racing? Weird.

    So welded those shut and installed this camber kit.

    This runs eccentric based hard steel lower bushings running in brass sleeve inserts.

    Some will tell you "oh it will make the steering harsher and transmit more vibration to the car". So after you have finished listening to those old ladies and Citroen/Pugeot drivers telling you this then remember that you are still alive and say "i wanna go fast".

    Put them in - it's great kit and the much sharper more responsive turn in is nice, the aggressive look and extra guard clearance at the top is nice, its all good. Can be set for up to -2.5degs

    But what are the negatives? Well be prepared that while the brass insert is a perfect fit for the steel bush that once you press fit the brass bush to the lower a-arm you will have to then ream them back to size.

    I didnt have a 35mm odd ream - but i did have a small bore piston hone - yep - set it up in jig and honed them to size.

    Feels good on the road - much tighter - the front was set by collier to 1.5 deg - i would like a bit more like 1.9-2deg.

    Turn in is great - and mid corner hold / feel is great - feels like a different car.
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  21. #71
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    Default 45 Webers Project

    A new set of 45's - they look nice.

    The manifolds are basically 40mm ID at the carbs with a 2mm deep chamfer out to 45mm - so they can say "works with 45mm carbs" i spose.

    Absolute shit for mixture flow though.

    So i marked out where to remove metal, shove copious rags down the inlets, got the high speed rasp in the drill and started working on making a nice graduation.

    When almost there i use the sandpaper flappers discs the polish up the inlets a bit.

    Result is a nice mating to the 45mm webers and a nice smooth tapering graduation and mixture acceleration / compression down to the valve.

    The performance is much better - much much much stronger up top - it is pulling hard all the way off the tach past 8K.

    Double cool.
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  22. #72
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    Default Tuning via AFR Project

    The only way to tune these carbs properly is via a wideband AFR sensor / gauge.

    Installed one in the 3.5 bend, drilled and welded the bung into the pipe, the sensor has got its own heater so dont stick it right up next to the head, and it should be as vertical as possible (pointing up) to stop any rich mixture from pooling onto the sensor which will root it.

    Made another gauge holder out of aluminium and mounted it to the dash in the same manner as the ignition panel - made room for a second gauge as well for some pipeline stuff.

    Amazingly the supplied harness just reaches where i want to put the guage.

    So what did it show - 10.5 on the throttle even though it feels strong.

    Not enough pump hit on jamming it to it.

    Rich / lean idle progression problems etc etc.

    So reduced the mains back to 135 odd (solder / drill jobs)- air correctors are 180's, chokes 36.

    Couldnt solve the progression problem even with bigger idles - tried 65's even - it comes down to the oxegenators in the idles - have almost cured it by soldering these shut but that affects the idles.

    BUT it drives damn nice now apart from a slightly rougher than normal rough idle from the over rich condition caused from closing the oxegenators (ive tried these down to .3mm so far and it still roots the progression then so im going to try .1mm soon which im hoping will allow an almost properly tuned idle and a nice progression.

    The gauge is cool in its operation and will be useful in the coming projects.

    To finalise up as for any good tune i bought a set of motorcycle carb balancers and got the carbs all nice and sexy balanced.

    Makes a big difference and worth the money because even with years of experience my ear / feel tune wasn't near good enough.
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  23. #73
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    Default Downforce Project

    As i am a die hard rice boy i just had to have a rear wing off a 747.

    Although it will accentuate front float at high speed it will also plant the rear - look at what Porsche do to their cars.

    Some of that float can be countered with a front air dam i spose so that will have to go on the drawing board.

    For this project the style i wanted was Evo 9 - but as usual nothing is the right dimensions and everything requires cutting, welding, gluing, rejigging, painting etc etc etc.

    The project involved a lot of angle calcs and special angled spacer building.

    The side posts run at a different angle to the Evo and the rear carbon wing width plus angles had to be cut to size as well.

    But its on, and the down force is supplied straight through to the vehicle rear substructure (no use mounting a centre post wing on the boot of an R8).

    All is removable leaving only 4 holes in the boot lid easily filled.

    As a temporary finishing method i used compression foam cut slightly oversize which stays in place without any fixing material.

    Shake those heads.
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  24. #74
    Fellow Frogger! Jensen's Avatar
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    Roll Cage?
    2002 Monaco Blue Renaultsport Clio 172
    1975 R1317 Renault 17 Gordini

  25. #75
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Nov 2010
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    Default The Big Sticky Rear Project Part I

    I was concerned with my Projects title above at first but then it came to me as a positive as it will remind all the Cit / Pug owners to return the DVD they rented on the weekend.

    I had originally wanted to run a 235 rear tyre. Thats seemed a little bit too sissy so i went for a 245.

    The rim to hold this will be a 9" rim.

    Looking at the Porsche hi-perf cars they counter their rear engine weight bias by using huge rear rubber and a staggered front / rear track (rear much larger).

    Take for example a 2000 model Porsche GT3. This car has the same wheelbase as an R8 at 2.27m

    By running a 9" rear rim i will have a rear track offset bias of some 70 odd mm.

    This is about the same as a GT3 - and the same thing they tried to do with the R5 Turbo.

    Most modern cars now (as they have a front weight bias) actually have wider front tracks than rear. I am not sure about a Commodore though - but i dont even think Holden would know).

    So my "standard guards" are already rolled / stretched to the max and with the 9" rim the calc says a 5.5" approx flare - thats considerable!

    So i start with a freehand drawing on the guard - transferred to rice paper to a thick plywood template and then cut that out. The top of the arch will be inline with the front guards arch.

    I attach the plywood to the guard via the trim holes so i can use the template in reverse on the other side and get the same shape. I also use a piece of masonite in the panel recess so the recess wont get beaten out.

    Once attached make some stretch relief cuts and start beating.

    As silly as it sounds i was after an original look - ok stop laughing but this is in the essence of shape look. So i cut out the arch lip of an R10 rear guard and shorten it down to R8 length then tack weld that in place.

    When happy with the shape i cut up and weld in some sheet steel to fill in all the gaps.
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