The 1985 Renault Fuego Rebuild
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  1. #1
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    Default The 1985 Renault Fuego Rebuild

    I was sitting outside with a can of black spray paint after painting one of the rubber moulds off the mazda, when i decided to paint the Fuego bumpers. Then i thought, why stop there? So ive started taking off the manifolds and hoses in order to get an engine crane and lift the motor out the car.

    The 10 bolts holding the head onto the block are really really tight and even with a breaker bar, they still tough as guts.

    ive managed to get three off but the low quality sockets we have all broke
    i'll head to a tool place and just get a single Snap on socket, that way if it breaks i can return it and get a new one whenever

    This will be my weekend project so i can have a run around whenever the mazda is in the workshop or off the road.

    The water pump I had on the motor right now was taken off and i can see that it was damaged and no water was flowing i dont think. So, i might have to weld up a new turbine for the pump and just fit it again.

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    Will look at getting the head off tomorrow and have a look at the conditions of the pistons. If a rebuild is needed, then i'll get a kit and do it all myself.

    Any ideas where i can get such a kit? Rings, bearings, rods, pistons etc....

    Thanks all!

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    Icon7 Sources...

    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    I was sitting outside with a can of black spray paint after painting one of the rubber moulds off the mazda, when i decided to paint the Fuego bumpers. Then i thought, why stop there? So ive started taking off the manifolds and hoses in order to get an engine crane and lift the motor out the car.

    The 10 bolts holding the head onto the block are really really tight and even with a breaker bar, they still tough as guts.

    ive managed to get three off but the low quality sockets we have all broke
    i'll head to a tool place and just get a single Snap on socket, that way if it breaks i can return it and get a new one whenever

    This will be my weekend project so i can have a run around whenever the mazda is in the workshop or off the road.

    The water pump I had on the motor right now was taken off and i can see that it was damaged and no water was flowing i dont think. So, i might have to weld up a new turbine for the pump and just fit it again.

    Will look at getting the head off tomorrow and have a look at the conditions of the pistons. If a rebuild is needed, then i'll get a kit and do it all myself.

    Any ideas where i can get such a kit? Rings, bearings, rods, pistons etc....

    Thanks all!
    Caravelle for new piston and liner sets, or raid my backyard for good secondhand bits like others do! only specification is that you have to take the other attached bits as well

    ken

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    Thank Ken, I've had a quick look on ebay and have found water pumps and a few gasket sets, as well as some sensors etc...

    Really KEEN!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    ive managed to get three off but the low quality sockets we have all broke
    i'll head to a tool place and just get a single Snap on socket, that way if it breaks i can return it and get a new one whenever
    Thats like saying I cant afford a mercedes, but I'll buy a merc wheel and tyre in the mean time.

    Seriously , you need to think about some decent tools, Fandango.
    You will avoid damaging things like the alloy head with the right tool.
    Not stupid expensive ones like snap on either. repco/kinkrome/ etc will do just fine.
    And keep the crap set you have for when your dad or your mates want to borrow your tools.

    A socket is one thing, but the handle is just as important, as are the extensions.

    Often cash converters or pawn shops sell good sets for around $100.
    You need 1/2 inch for head/driveshaft nut/suspension work. but smaller sets for most other work.
    Add to that a good set of offset ring spanners and a crap set of chinese open enders or stubbies(Open enders/stubbies dont need to be as good IMO as the load you put on them and the amount of time you use them means you can get away with lower quality).

    Spend $400 kitting up now, and you will carry those tools the rest of your life.
    Alternatively,you may also cary wrist/hand/skin injury for the rest of your life if your crappy socket handle gives up and you are unlucky enough to smash into the wrong component.

    Jo

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    Im going down to get a breaker bar and a small set of sockets. At least I'll be able to crack the bolts loose and then use the crappy tools for the not so tight things. Maybe even a ratchet too.

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    It is Sidchrome who have the lifetime guarantee - I have a Sidchrome rachet spanner that broke; took it to repco (which is not where I bought it from) who had it replaced by Sidchrome free of charge - no receipt, no bullshit; just rang me when it was in and handed it over (only took a couple of days). My opinion of Repco improved substantially after that.

    Anyhow, not sure if Snap On have the same guarantee?

    KB
    KB


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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    It is Sidchrome who have the lifetime guarantee - I have a Sidchrome rachet spanner that broke; took it to repco (which is not where I bought it from) who had it replaced by Sidchrome free of charge - no receipt, no bullshit; just rang me when it was in and handed it over (only took a couple of days). My opinion of Repco improved substantially after that.

    Anyhow, not sure if Snap On have the same guarantee?

    KB
    I can beat that....

    My thin walled repco brand 1/2 inch socket set busted whilst doing some extreme undoing.

    There might have been some extra force dealt out, but I cant remember.

    Went to repco with the busted socket, they asked if I was using an impact tool??
    I didn't own one at the time, so after answering "no" they gave me a new socket of the shelf there and then.

    Jo

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    Now the proud owner of a new Sidchrome tool set!

    Snap on do have a lifetime warranty.
    Apparently many brands are starting to do it lately

    The 1985 Renault Fuego Rebuild-imageuploadedbytapatalk1310809926.746628.jpg
    The 1985 Renault Fuego Rebuild-imageuploadedbytapatalk1310809962.420109.jpg

  9. #9
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    Well done!!!

    THats a great start to a tool kit.

    Jo

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I've got a majority of Sidchrome gear and I find it great.
    Good Choice!
    KB
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The 1985 Renault Fuego Rebuild-helping-daddy-007.jpg  
    KB


  11. #11
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    If that fuego uses the same engine block as other type of Renault.
    I think it was sold in 1.7L ( same as R16TX engine ) and 2.0L ( R20 engine ).

    So, if your looking for engine parts... look for the same engine in other Renault variants.

    May I suggest you get a complete liner kit!

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    Will be taking motor out today after work at least getting started....
    Might even have a go at rebuilding the gbox, any more pointers and or advice?

    I'm having trouble getting the cam out of the head btw.

    On the "to do" list:
    Liner kit
    Water pump
    New belts and hoses
    Carby makeover (have a bid on eBay for a 45mmDCOE WEBER...or just clean up the standard one.
    Hot up my cams with a regrind (maybe get some more lift and duration)
    Head rebuild

    Anything else I should look into?

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    Icon10 Jest a few tips...young man!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    Will be taking motor out today after work at least getting started....
    Might even have a go at rebuilding the gbox, any more pointers and or advice?

    I'm having trouble getting the cam out of the head btw.

    On the "to do" list:
    Liner kit
    Water pump
    New belts and hoses
    Carby makeover (have a bid on eBay for a 45mmDCOE WEBER...or just clean up the standard one.
    Hot up my cams with a regrind (maybe get some more lift and duration)
    Head rebuild

    Anything else I should look into?
    Fandango...

    Take it from me after a lifetime of pulling things apart to see how they work, that is always easy, what is not so easy is later putting them back together. This helps other savvy owners, as they come along and buy up a heap of cheap bits long after the owner has given up re-assembling the damn thing.


    Make it a practice, of keeping a log book of how you took it apart, take some photos, these days digital photographs are cheap and even phone camera images are quite clear, this will help later when you finally start to re-assemble.

    When restoring a car, make up a schedule of things that need to be done - clean, strip, paint, assemble, touch up etc in a logical order and as you tackle each job, you will find the easy ones are easy, but don't be tempted to skip past a difficult scheduled job - do it in the order you set or else later you will find just the hard jobs all lined up to do, and that is daunting especially when your enthusiasm is waning or other interests demand your attention !!


    Check all the components for wear or damage, and either source better used parts of new if available, its like a cumulative work through to make sure what you end up with is a good working machine when it gets back in service. Mark in your log an asterisk against those parts that need attention or replacement, that makes it easy to pick up later as you make up your schedule of work to be done.

    That good advice comes from a person who has lots of boxes full of things like clocks pulled apart, electronics pulled apart, wires saved, springs saved, cogs and bits saved along with sundry screws, bolts, nuts, washers of all sizes etc etc that just might come in handy, if you can ever find where you put that bit that- you- know -you- have- somewhere!!


    Also while it is cheaper to buy some things in bulk like sealant and adhesive, oils greases and tubes of silicon etc, if you don't use all of that tube, sometimes its a huge waste as later you will find the product has solidified, decide what you need and buy that, though things like good tools will last a lifetime!!

    Ken

    I am sure others might add to the list of handy tips..

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    Sounds good to me.
    I haven't really pulled anything apart that needs pictures I don't think so far, but once the engine comes out, I think it'll be a different story. Gearbox can stay in car for time being, I'll do the bell housing bolts today and pull the motor out completely tomorrow....hopefully.

    I need to find somewhere to put it though as mum will shoot me if I just put it on the floor in the garage lol.

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    Icon6 Time to be trying, you never know tillyou try!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    Sounds good to me.
    I haven't really pulled anything apart that needs pictures I don't think so far, but once the engine comes out, I think it'll be a different story. Gearbox can stay in car for time being, I'll do the bell housing bolts today and pull the motor out completely tomorrow....hopefully.

    I need to find somewhere to put it though as mum will shoot me if I just put it on the floor in the garage lol.
    You really haven't tried Mum out yet, just bring the motor into the kitchen, put some newspaper on the floor so you don't drip oil on those nice tiles. Now knowing what a nice sweet lady your mother is, I am sure that after the initial reaction (and you pick yourself up) the motor will be banished to the garage QED problem solved, remember to buy Mum a nice bunch of roses too, that might help get the oily smell out of the house.

    Always handy to have a large doghouse to give you shelter if things backfire.


    Apologies to Mrs G

    Ken

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    Well, mum actually was ok with it all! She even helped take the motor out with me and helped clean the block. We've used about 2 liters of petrol, 5 cans of degreaser and a bottle of brake fluid lol. The oil on the block was about 3-5mm thick!

    I'm going to take the gearbox out tomorrow and clean out the engine bay. Tonight is just a reading night, figuring out how to get the pistons and crank out

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    Today's progress:
    Engine out and almost cleaned up

    Spot the degreaser can!!!

    Almost clean


    Gearbox out tomorrow!
    Will keep you all updated

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    Wasnt able to get gearbox out yesterday...driveshafts need to come out first and is proving a little difficult.
    I noticed that maybe the reason why my gear stick was so wobbly was because of The linkages. They seem to be missing a rubber or something.
    The gold colored rod at the end where it connects to the gearbox in particular.

    Can I get a complete new part for this or just some bushes on their own?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    Wasnt able to get gearbox out yesterday...driveshafts need to come out first and is proving a little difficult.
    I noticed that maybe the reason why my gear stick was so wobbly was because of The linkages. They seem to be missing a rubber or something.
    The gold colored rod at the end where it connects to the gearbox in particular.

    Can I get a complete new part for this or just some bushes on their own?
    Fandango

    You buy a set of gear lever seals from Caravelle. Ken Bailey knows exactly what you need.

    You need a good pin punch to knock out the roll pins, not home at the moment or would measure mine for you
    follow your manual on removing the shafts..

    Ken

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    The pins aren't the problem, it's the steering/suspension components which refuse to budge. Lower ball joint doesn't want to come free neither does the upper

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    Get a big hammer on one side of the cast iron hub carrier (at the ball joint)and hit the other side with a smaller hammer.

    Last stubborn one took about 100 mild hits untill it let go, but it will let go.


    Jo

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    Cheers Jo.

    Also looking at a little more grunt for the mighty fuego. Exhaust is a bit rusted I think so a replacement will be coming it's way soon. 2" with extractors maybe? Am also looking at maybe dropping in another cam or giving the standard one a regrind. Thoughts?

    Should I get the standard carby cleaned up or maybe get another solex or maybe weber?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post
    Cheers Jo.

    Also looking at a little more grunt for the mighty fuego. Exhaust is a bit rusted I think so a replacement will be coming it's way soon. 2" with extractors maybe? Am also looking at maybe dropping in another cam or giving the standard one a regrind. Thoughts?

    Should I get the standard carby cleaned up or maybe get another solex or maybe weber?
    Converting to EFI would get my vote.

    Jo

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    Quite a big fan of carbies actually. I feel they're a bit revvier, and a bit more responsive, but if I decide to go high comp low boost turbo when I get the new Mazda motor, I might need EFI for tuning purposes.

    How much work is involved with going EFI?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fandango View Post

    How much work is involved with going EFI?
    Compared to how much you have just bitten off.....Medium amount.



    Jo

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