Paul's Turbo 504 Project
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Paul's Turbo 504 Project

    Well I'm back. After the crash we obviously lost the old thread. I'll add in the back story soon enough, although with less pictures this time.

    For those that never saw the old thread, this is the plan. I have a 1979 504 GL. It was converted to a TI by a previous owner. I was quite happy with this up until I cracked a piston because I reved it to 7k rpm way to often. (I'm now over my rev the engine till redline phase btw). In the search for more power, I decided to fit an SR20DET into the car. For those that don't know, this was a 1998cc turbo charged engine that was fitted to Nissan 180SX, S13, S14 and S15 (sold as 200SX here) models. The Standard spec these motors produced about 200hp at 7psi of boost. This is nearly double the XN2 that came out of the car.

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    Since starting the project (about 2 years ago) things havn't progressed fast at all. But it will get there. One thing I did was to purchase a Nissan 200SX (S14). This came with an SR20 which I have now put a lot of work and money into. I had to rebuild it, and we modified the motor for track work. The car has been a delight, but the most important thing I have now is experiance with an SR20 motor. I know how they drive, what the power delievery is like, where to get parts, who to talk to for advice, what they look like inside, and what kind of power to expect with various mods. For the 200SX we so far have lightly tinkered with it, pulling 175Kw at the rears for just 10psi of boost on a standard turbo.

    My 504 is to be my daily drive. I already have the trackday car. Therefore it won't be hugely powerfull. I can't imagine I will go over 175Kw for example. Its ample on the street, but good fun as well. To begine with, it will just be standard however. The greatest advantage will be having a modern engine. One that starts everytime, and is reliable. I can't wait. Of course, the car will have to be engineered.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default

    reserved for build history (when I get round to it)
    Last edited by Hipcrostino; 6th January 2011 at 09:29 PM.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default

    NOTE: the file upload service is not running yet, so I can only attach images.


    Well after today the cars interior has been stripped. Engine, gearbox and torque tube are all out. This is all in prep for doing the hard work. The body is almost 100% rust free. There was some surface rust on the drivers side that I've sorted out.

    The work required to get this all to fit is going to be interesting. As I am using the Nissan gearbox (which is enourmus) and the peugeot torque tube/diff a few things need to happen. First I need make the gearbox fit the tunnel. This means at the very least extending the hole through which the gear stick comes. Next I must modify the nissan gearbox to adapt it to the torque tube and finally shorten the torque tube. I also have to make engine mounts.

    I have test fitted the gearbox into the car now (without any modifications yet) and the fit is pretty close. This late model seems to have a larger tunnel than the early model I used as a test in earlier days. Perhaps the car was an automatic in its past life? It did have an early model gearbox in it (circlip slave cylinder) so perhaps it was. What ever the reason, all the better for me. We may get away with just moving the seam and not actually cutting into the car at the firewall. We shall see.

    On the plus side, I've just ordered an new steering wheel for it. More on that when it arrives
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0938_800x600.jpg   Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0939_800x600.jpg   Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0940_800x600.jpg   Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0921_800x600.jpg   Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0924_800x600.jpg   Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0934_800x600.jpg  

    Paul's Turbo 504 Project-img_0933_800x600.jpg  
    Last edited by Hipcrostino; 6th January 2011 at 09:29 PM.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  4. #4
    Tadpole kingpug500's Avatar
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    Default Yay

    good to see this thread is back up and running. still hanging out to see this car going. id love it.
    cheers

  5. #5
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Default

    Well done Paul. Having stripped the dashboard right out like that, would you be able to explain what needs to be done to remove the centre dashtop vents? I want to remove and replace mine since they are sun- affected.
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Sure John. Guess what, you need to strip it as far as I have. once the main top dash section is out, you flip it over and undo 4x10mm nuts to remove the center vents (I am also replacing mine). You won't have to remove the heater unit thankfully, but you will need to remove the vent controls. Glovebox can stay, but the trim below it may need to be removed.

    @Ali, I can't wait either
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I once had the identical hub and steering wheel. Anyone got one they don't want? Neil

  8. #8
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    How hard is it to remove the main dash section? What else needs to come out first?
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default hints on removing the dash section

    (as you have done)

    Mine has 2 or 3 hideous rattles that occur (as usual) at critical speeds...60, 80, etc etc naturally!

    I have taken parts of the dash out before, centre console, removable padded bits, heater assembly etc but am a bit intimidated by the main substructure on which the black dashtop sits - that you've removed. How is it attached to what's not visible below. I'd like to remove it but fear l would need to destroy the ancient plastics on the front. Is this correct?

    Get back to me when you have the time

    Cheers

  10. #10
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    It's actually very easy, I've just removed two in the last week.

    They are secured by about 6 philips head screws that you can see on the lower, forward section of the dashboard, plus the two right in the corners of the windscreen and one more under the centre of the windscreen. You also need to remove the instrument cluster first, the remove the large, U-shaped bolt arrangement that holds the top of the steering column to the top of the pedal box and the dashboard.

    You do not need to remove the heater controls, just undo the screw on each side and let it sit out of the way. There might be a couple of other little ancillaries such as the choke cable if fitted that you will need to unsecure for the time being.

    Once the dashboard is unsecured, you can remove all the electrical wiring, there are two looms that run across the back of the dashboard and are held in place by the little fold-over clip devices.

    It actually sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. Takes about half an hour to get them out, and about the same to put them back.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

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  11. #11
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    Yeah scott thats about corrrect. I left the wiring vanes in the dash section I removed. There are two plugs hidden deep behind the fusebox (you can get to it by removing the three screws/bolts that hold in that panel).

    Barry, really the only thing that attaches it to the rest of the lower dash, once you've removed the screws, is the wiring harness (can be unplugged or removed) and a U bracket that holds up the steering column. The column is attached by 4 nuts. The upper two attach to the Ubolt. Undo them, then remove the Ubolt (dash cluster needs to come out to do that). Once the dash is removed, I just replaced the Ubolt and did it back up to hold the steering column in place.

    Anyway guys, I'll take photos of it and try to explain it better.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Great!!

    I'll get to it with confidence.......................??..real soon now.................

    Cheers

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Ok, so time for some detail on the dash removal with pictures included.

    First up, this is the dash section that gets removed



    As you can see, there is no need to remove the glove box or anything like that.

    Here is a rear view of the dash. You can see that I have already removed the center vents



    The center vent is attached from below the dash top by 4 10mm nuts. Back in the car, there is a plastic "port" that connects the center vents of the dash top to the heatbox below, as shown here.



    The center vents just sit over the "port" and likewise with the heaterbox below. No clips or screws to undo there. The "port" can also be removed, it is held in place with some simple clips.

    Now as for removal, as discussed earlier in this thread there are some phillips head screws on the lower lip of the dashtop section that need to be removed, as well as two on the top, one on each side of the car. They are hard to miss. Once these are all removed, we must remove the "U" bolt that hold the steering column up, as this acts like a clamp on the dashtop. (Note that in the photo below I have already removed the dashtop and have replaced the "U" bolts from where it came)



    As you can see, the "U" bolt is actually two threaded bars, joined at the top by a plate with two threaded holes. On the bottom there are two nuts that hold up the column.



    You need to undo these two nuts (In the red circle). Then the "U" bolt will slide out the top. Finally undo the two remaining bolts lower down the column. The column will drop down a little, but it won't fall.

    Lastly you need to disconnect the wiring. This I did by undoing a couple of plugs near the glovebox (clock power, dash light, fan and cigarette lighter) and then unbolting the fusebox panel (black part to the right of the column in the photo above). Behind this is a mass of wires. The dash cluster wiring runs through two plugs which are burried in there. Undo them (pictured below) and then the dash was clear. Alternativly, you can remove the wiring from the dash by opening the clamps that hold it to the dash. Its up to you really.



    Thats basically it. I had an easier time as it was the last thing I removed when I stripped the interior. Hope that helps for those who were asking.


    As to my progress, I've started stripping the engine bay of wiring.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Todays update,

    Engine bay is pretty much stripped of electricals and the battery try has been cut out. It really needs a clean now....

    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  15. #15
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Thanks for the write-up on the dash removal. I'll be referring back to it a bit later!

    Why the black engine bay?
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Thanks for the photos......looks a piece of..........even I should be able to do it...........

    Cheers

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Black engine bay is the bomb. Why wouldn't you want one! but, yeah, car came like that. Its been resprayed (poorly) in the past
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Well went and saw a man about the gearbox last weekend. This morning I am preping it for modification. I will be handing it over this weekend for the mods to take place. Don't know how long it will take.

    The modification is a simple idea. Harder to do in practice, but it has been done before. We are taking the back of a 504 gearbox and welding it to the back of the nissan gearbox so that the torque tube will bolt up.

    Couple of pics from the split nissan gearbox.





    I'll post some more pics later after I've cleaned the housings this arvo (its stinking hot here atm, 35 and climbing)
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! DjB8V's Avatar
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    Big size difference between the two of them.



    Chris

  20. #20
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Two halves of the Nissan gearbox. Much bigger than a Pug gearbox tho!
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger!
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    yeah the nissan gearbox is reallly long. It dose include all the linkages inside the box though. The 504 gear stick sits a fair way behind the box. It would be nice if it were shorter though.
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger!
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    look what arrived today. yum yum, Mota-Lita goodness!

    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

  23. #23
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Wow, that's nice! Shame about the rest of the interior!

    $$??
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  24. #24
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Hip',
    I've got two MotaLita wheels, both early models with, sadly, deteriorated leather grips. Cost to re-cover around $200+.
    They look the goods when new eh?
    All the usual preventions apply. Keep the sun off and don't let the other half use the car after applying hand cream.

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Duely noted. Untill its done it won't be in the car either. Got my old wheel for that. Gearbox stuff is off for modification this week too. yay, things are finally happening!
    Lets just say we have a few pugs about!

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