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  1. #1
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    Default 203 progress

    Many of you will probably find the following pics mundane but I would like to show them for anyone like myself who is finding out about a 203 for the first time.
    I'm gradually stripping everything back to metal and then undercoating it. Once completed in undercoat I'll apply colour and then clear.
    I've discovered scotchbrite abrasives on the angle grinder for removing paint fast. It's a good thing because there are a lot of layers in some places. Under everything the metal is mostly clean although with a few rust blemishes. Most of these come right off with the scotchbrite pads.
    They are expensive from mitre10 but I'm getting some for about half the price from Blackwoods and they are 3m brand. Will report how good they are.
    Anyway here goes with the pics which are not in order, but are fairly self explanetary. I was so pleased to discover those clips that hold the thing window trim strips, that are held with a phillips head from inside the window track.

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    The alloy spats need sanding with wet and dry before polishing. Here's one polished.

    Boot was stripped back to metal before this undercoat.



    Straightened front bumper with leather faced panel hammer and carefully shaped tree stump as the backup

    Panel beaten lower section of guard where it may have bottomed out on a high gutter. Had to remove reinforcement for a clear run but I had the right dolly to go inside for reshaping

    Love the way those lights pop out

    Love the way those clips are screwed in inside window track

    Underbody in fantastic condition


    A bit of bog next to the tail light but I can live with that

    Trafficators work on the bench but I need new red covers for them

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    This pic of the passenger door complete with lock - don't tell me Mr Peugeot couldn't be bothered to put one on the drivers door of RHD 203's?


    And, Dan, you must be working too hard, not a coffee mug or a packet of smokes in any of the pics?



    Mike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 203 progress-resto9.jpg  
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    Default paint

    great progress there Dan, I always use an etch primer under the undercoat, is supposed to help undercoat adhere.
    The semaphore arms had yellow/ orange lens maybe you could use lens paint?
    when you put semaphores and "parking lights back in, use new O rings and make sure they seal
    there is commonly rust holes caused by water leaking past them onto the top of rear guard behind the door striker it is hard to see, best seen from in the wheel arch. that is often to source of dust leaking into the car .

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    Mike,
    I don't smoke and enjoy a good coffee on the verandah and yes I'm working too hard on this job.
    Are you snowed in by the way?
    Alpine, thanks for the tips. I have a primer undercoat so I think it's good to go on first and it also goes over any fill before the colour coat.
    There will be a bit of fill but surprisingly little. I have now stripped the roof , both back guards and most of the front guards. I've been usiing 3M 125mm scotchbrite discs for angle grinder. They are exponentially better than the other one called supercraft. They cost half the price and last about four times as long. They are also bloody dangerous as you'd imagine. Anything that moves so much paint so easily moves flesh pretty fast as well. I carelessly touched the end of a finger onto the moving edge and took the top out of my finger, well several layers at least. And I had to remove the guard to fit a 125mm disc on a 125mm angle grinder, so it is doubly dangerous. Good to be wary of these wonder tools.
    But I still don't know how Alpine stripped his in 8 hours with 3 discs.
    I think by the time I've finished it will take me at least double that, but I still regard that as pretty quick.
    I'm enjoying the look of a Maroon one at the moment with this interior

    I think that's a pretty nice colour scheme

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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    Mike,

    Are you snowed in by the way?
    Not yet, I live on top of a hill so the going to work is easy enough, but getting back up the hill at home time is becoming increasingly difficult. From either direction it's a steady climb for about half a mile and I can't take a run at it because of a bend at the bottom.




    Alpine mentioned rust around the rear door latch area. I hadn't thought it was water penetration from the parking lamps, I'd assumed it took hold there because the gutter directs the water to the clip-hole for the side strip. My 203 was rusty around there, and when I welded in a new piece I didn't drill a hole for the clip/nut and bolt whichever it is that holds the strip there. Instead I stuck the strip on with goo. The rest of the clip-holes got a generous blob of underseal before I fitted the strips. The hole immediately in front of the front doors (even though my holes weren't rusty) got the goo treatment just in case.







    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    At this point I'm contemplating changing the colour of the dash as the above photo is grey while mine is silver. This seems to be a pretty tricky job. For a start I can't see how all those lovely plastic switch knobs come off. So if I left them and masked in situ there's also the thin stainless strip across the top which is clipped from behind so that would need masking too. I will probably have to take the steering wheel off as I want to replace the rubber around the steering column where it goes through the firewall. Any connection to the engine compartment needs sealing if possible. So with the wheel off I'd have more access for spraying.

    The other problem I came across today was with the roofrack mounts. I took them off and bingo, the threaded plate underneath dropped into the roof lining. I was not intending to change the roof lining as it's in such good nick, so I spose I'll leave those bits floating about and work out some sort of rawl plug to refasten those mounts. I found they are made of brass but they seem to get painted the same as the rest. I think they should be painted separately as it would make buffing the roof easier and cleaner without them. But they are a bit of a nuisance whichever way they go. And I think they might look nice stripped back to brass and clear lacquered. Maybe they'd be nicer chromed. Anyone with any thoughts here?

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    Default Roof rack mounts

    I did the same thing with my 203C in the 70's - took off the roof rack mounts to clean them up and the plate dropped into the roof lining...

    I prefer to strip them back to brass and polish them up.

    friday403

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    I've been working my way round the car, stripping to bare metal and then spraying with primer. I like doing it this way as there is no time for the metal to rust and it's easy to start from where I left off.
    Getting the windscreen out was a bitch and I still have to clear the way by removal of wiper shafts and bonnet attachments.
    But I'm happy with progress so far.
    Here's the evidence:








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    You did push the screen in?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    You did push the screen in?
    Yes, the back one was fairly easy but the front one wouldn't release along the hood lining without a fight. I thought it was glued but no, just stuck from habit. Good glue that habit.

    But on that subject, I seem to be totally on my own as far as discovering such things, like the disappearing roofrack plates, until after the horse has bolted.
    Reinventing the wheel here, as there are no other threads of complete restos that I can find.
    Therefore if you know anything else that needs to be known, like what's the best way to replace the rubber seal around the steering column or should I try to get the dashboard out or leave it in place to spray it, masking the switches and shiny bits, you know, all that stuff you've taken for granted after years of messing with 203's, then please speak up brother.
    I've already decided not to take the front guards off as there's welding involved, in mine at least, and I don't think it is necessary for a top job.
    Indeed, I am unwilling to touch the hood lining as it is pretty good and I fear that it would easily be wrecked, so if anyone knows different, I'd like to know. I can probably get by with the wires that are in there to the interior light, and I can fit new wires for the semaphores and parking lights.
    Every other wire needs replacement. I think I'll do it a wire at a time and then fit heatshrink insulation where possible and use that modern spiral covering over tape for the rest. Opinions please?

    Cheers,
    Dan

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    Default 203

    Hood lings are not hard to do, you could add some sound deadening as well!! and catch the roof rack bases
    You will find it hard to stop overspray on the lining, keep your old lining for a pattern

    I would leave the dash in to paint , mask the glove box inners , they are really easily destroyed and you won't find replacements, if you undo the switch bases and mask them the sanding and paint can get in behind .
    all the wiring will be brittle and corroded from the ends best replace it all
    to rewire, mark the ends of the loom pull the lot ,nail it on a big board and replicate it, leaving some slack particularly around lightswitch.

    by rubber in steering column do you mean the bush in the steering tube?
    pretty sure they are the same as the 403 can provide a s/h one

    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by alpine View Post
    Hood lings are not hard to do, you could add some sound deadening as well!! and catch the roof rack bases
    You will find it hard to stop overspray on the lining, keep your old lining for a pattern

    I would leave the dash in to paint , mask the glove box inners , they are really easily destroyed and you won't find replacements, if you undo the switch bases and mask them the sanding and paint can get in behind .
    all the wiring will be brittle and corroded from the ends best replace it all
    to rewire, mark the ends of the loom pull the lot ,nail it on a big board and replicate it, leaving some slack particularly around lightswitch.

    by rubber in steering column do you mean the bush in the steering tube?
    pretty sure they are the same as the 403 can provide a s/h one

    cheers
    I was going to mask the hood lining? If it's easy can you explain how it's done? Is it made in sections mounted on cardboard for instance? I have no idea how it fixes in there.

    The inners of the glove boxes are pretty shabby anyway but I agree about loosening the switches and masking. I was considering putting a stereo into the middle one like the Gordon Miller car, because the cardboard doesn't hold much without the likelihood of losing it down behind. I do like music in my car.

    Nervous about doing the wiring this way as it's already a mess of various generations of addons and stuff but I can see how it could work. I favour the 403 method using all black wire with numbered ends.
    Will see if I can get my head around it.

    The rubber around the base of the steering column seals it from the engine compartment, like a big grommet. I think the whole column has to come out to replace it.

    Cheers and thanks again Alpine.
    Last edited by luthier; 8th December 2010 at 01:26 AM.

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    Just out of interest, are you using epoxy primer. If that's normal etch primer it provides barely any moisture/rust protection at all. They will rust straight through it

    seeya,
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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    I've been working my way round the car, stripping to bare metal and then spraying with primer. I like doing it this way as there is no time for the metal to rust and it's easy to start from where I left off.
    Getting the windscreen out was a bitch and I still have to clear the way by removal of wiper shafts and bonnet attachments.
    But I'm happy with progress so far.
    Here's the evidence:
    Looking at your rear guards has me thinking your car could be worth a fortune. Check back, I'm sure you'll find Bonnie and Clyde used it as a getaway car.

    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    I was going to mask the hood lining? If it's easy can you explain how it's done? Is it made in sections mounted on cardboard for instance? I have no idea how it fixes in there.

    Will see if I can get my head around it.

    The rubber around the base of the steering column seals it from the engine compartment, like a big grommet. I think the whole column has to come out to replace it.

    Cheers and thanks again Alpine.
    I fitted the headlining to mine earlier this year, and I didn't find it easy to do. But I didn't have an existing lining as a pattern.
    Don't take this as gospel, but above each seam there's a "hoop" from side to side, when you're sewing the sections together you'll need to make provision for the lining to attach to the hoops. My car had two hoops, and a flat piece of springy steel. I think the flat piece only applies to sunroof models. Your car probably has three conventional hoops. Before you remove your existing lining measure the distance between the seams at various points so you finish with an accurate copy. Or you'll end up like me, I went for the dishevelled, who's bothered, sort of a finish.

    The rubber around the column - wasn't something I renewed (for obvious reasons) but just a thought. Can you not double-up on the rubber? Say it's a square with a round hole - slit one from the top to the middle, slit the other from the bottom to the middle, refit the metal washery bits?

    If you'd warned folk you were about to take out your roofrack screws, maybe someone would have told you the plates would drop off into the roof lining. Helpful we are, psychic we aren't.

    Unless you count this tip. Refit your boot lid before the back seats are replaced, it'll make hinge adjustment so much easier. (I found that out the hard way).

    If the return springs in your external door handles need replacing, old 12" hacksaw blades suitably cut are a good, cheap replacement. How long they'll last, who knows? But mine seem ok.

    Don't understand your reason for not whipping off your front guards? (Now there's a chat-up line I must remember).



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    Default hood lining

    To make hood lining, buy a length of stretchy material 3.m from memory, allow plenty around the edges as the sides are tucked up under a strip of "sharks teeth " which are screwed to the body over the doors.
    around windscreen and rear window is glued to metal under the rubbers. (Before rubber and glass install

    lining is just material with pockets on the back that run across the car, in which run flat metal "bows", the ends of these are located in holes on sides above the sharks teeth they are bowed up to hold the lining shape. no cardboard. Get the wife involved here with her sewing machine or buy a second hand opshop machine for $10 use strongest thread you can buy

    measure distances from the front screen where the line of sewing is then the next etc .
    on the back of your material create a pocket 30mm wide from side to side

    I suggest you get an old bed sheet and make a trial run just use clips to hold lining to front and rear windows instead of glueing
    see if you can get a look at another 203 that has a stuffed lining all will become clear

    unsure if the steering column rubber is available I repaired mine with black sikaflex glue without removing column.
    make sure you inspect the rubber steering flector carefully for cracks before you install motor
    if you have to buy another try and get one NOT made by Sasic twhich dont last very long
    if your existing is Ok leave it there

    Cheers

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    Default re upholstery

    few shots of early model headlining;
    http://www.selleriegomez.com/selleri...e-peugeot-203/

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Just out of interest, are you using epoxy primer. If that's normal etch primer it provides barely any moisture/rust protection at all. They will rust straight through it

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    You got me a bit worried as I am using a 3M acrylic primer/surfacer. It gives instructions to be used straight onto ferrous metals and so I consulted my local panel beater who says I need to use this as I am finishing with acrylic, not 2 pack, and that as I am spraying almost immediately after stripping it should be OK.
    I hope so as I'd hate to be doing a bad job.

    I had another look at the hood lining and there's no way I'm touching it. My wife is in fact a very talented seamstress and she doesn't want to know about it either. She reckons it would be a tragedy to undo it as it's in such good nick and I agree.

    Mike, I understand you are a magnificent welder so whipping the guards off would be no hassle for you, but as mine are welded at the bottom and I don't have a welder, I'm leaving them in place. There are rather a lot of holes in the back guards aren't there? A few will be left for wires and light mounts.
    You never mentioned that they aren't psychic here. I'm not either, so I just go ahead and dismantle as if there's no tomorrow, but most is easy and not subject to loss of bits like the roof rack mounts. Traps for beginners.

    Yes gloop around the steering column sounds like a plan.

    The flector looks OK but I haven't had a bright light on it. Still I've had them cracked and wobbly but they haven't ever let go so they have to be bad before replacement. They'd be the same right up to 505 wouldn't they? Is it actually possible for them to let go? I thought the construction was quite safe in that regard. Or are you saying that they can't be changed with the engine in place? I wouldn't think so, there seems to be plenty of room for that. The engine mounts seem good too.
    At this stage I'm doubtful that I will take the engine out, the gearbox for sure, to fix the slipping selectors and possibly a head job depending on compression, but I don't think the full monty is required right now. I know I was keen to do the lot at first, but common sense and the desire to drive the thing has altered my perspective somewhat. The motor sounds very smooth, just a bit gutless. Perhaps it's because I've got so used to the 406. I like sailing up steep inclines in 4th without losing revs.
    Might need a blower to match that.

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    Well today I had a nice discovery. Surprised none of you had suggested this. I peeled back the outer edges of the hood linings, unscrewed the first straps, and hey presto, the roofrack thingos were there and easily put back in place. I think I'll glue 'em in there so they don't fall again. What a stupid idea in the first place.
    Looks like I get to keep the hood lining, long as I can get the wires through. This is a case for laying some of them separately , as the old wires can be used to drag the new ones through tricky places.

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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    Well today I had a nice discovery. Surprised none of you had suggested this..
    ... ... ...
    ... oh, forgetaboutit ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by fnqvmuch View Post
    ... ... ...
    ... oh, forgetaboutit ...
    Well mate, if you think I'm being precious or useless or something I'm sorry, but finding out about this stuff is both difficult and enlightening. The whole idea of a thread like this is to give some sort of a guide to anyone who comes after. As I am coming a long way after a lot of you guys I was hoping for some help. I have had quite a bit and am very grateful for it. But much is discovering on ones own of course.
    As I hadn't realized how the roof lining goes I couldn't see that these things could easily be recovered. No one said it was so easy, so I'm inclined to be a little bit annoyed by your response.
    The photos you put up did not show what I needed. The fact was I had to put my hand in there and push the lining down to realize it could be done. Simple but unexplained, so here it is shown. I'll take photos tomorrow.
    Last edited by luthier; 9th December 2010 at 12:47 AM.

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    When a 203 has its original head lining, it's usually so brittle it can't be handled. So very few people have any experience in manipulating them. The roof rack attachments are obviously never intended to be removed. If you wreck them it's the sort of thing you pick up but lots of people have dropped the plates. I think they're harder to recover in a 403. I think it was mentioned in a thread on the "old" site. The area between the rear guard and boot is a rust trap.

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    I must be very lucky in that case, Russell, because it all looks pretty original, but is still a bit flexible and can be torn away along the glue points without tearing the fabric, except for one point up to the rear vision mirror.
    But the thing is once the visors are removed and the fabric is parted where it goes under the windscreen , the steel that goes across the car can simply be pushed down to access the rack mounts and it's similar at the back.
    Perhaps this lining was replaced once, but if so it was done the right way.
    I'm certain that it will go back together well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    I must be very lucky in that case, Russell, because it all looks pretty original, but is still a bit flexible and can be torn away along the glue points without tearing the fabric, except for one point up to the rear vision mirror.
    But the thing is once the visors are removed and the fabric is parted where it goes under the windscreen , the steel that goes across the car can simply be pushed down to access the rack mounts and it's similar at the back.
    Perhaps this lining was replaced once, but if so it was done the right way.
    I'm certain that it will go back together well.
    What sort of fabric is it?
    The majority of cars have what looks like a bed sheet and is a pink colour. This went hard and fell apart very early on. I had one in 1972 that was disentegrating.
    My 56 model is the only one I've seen for years that has its headlining intact, I would not dare touch it let alone pry it away to recover the sunroof mountings.
    You may have the felt lining, I think these cars may have been imported built up, they also had grey plastic seats rather than the red leather of the Canada Cycles cars. Maybe they were built by Harden and Johnston?
    My sunroof mounts have also fallen down, previous owner was obviously stuffing around, I guess I'll glue them on and not fit a sunroof until the headlining is replaced, probably never as I want to keep this car original.
    Graham

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    Default Here's a thought.....

    Which bit are you going to be working on next, Dan?

    Gives us lads a chance to offer hints.



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

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    Apparently my 1953 car should have had felt hood lining but as it has white vinyl it must have been replaced. That's why it is still durable enough to muck about with.
    I am happy about this and plan to run trailer cable through and new wires to the interior light.
    I had a good yarn to Mal Goodwin the other day[ who told me about the lining], and he was good enough to go out in his yard and check out the hood lining on a wreck as we spoke. He thinks the hood lining was a oneway process, never intended to be dismantled. where the final process was pushing the edges up with a special tool.
    I can't see how it could have been done any other way.
    While some may say this is easy, I'll opt to keep what is good, as long as I can successfully rewire for reliability and safety, because to me the hood lining looks like a nightmare.
    We all have our strengths and weaknesses, my strengths being in paint and mechanicals, but weak in welding and interior, although I think I'll be tackling the seat upholstery with my wife's help and guidance.
    I am very happy with this car because some kind soul has done nice work on it by welding bits in here and there, and basically doing a lot of hard work on the preliminary restoration.
    It looks like they've redone the door hinges and the tops of the pillars as well. I take my hat off to them and will enjoy the solid car that I have inherited.

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