1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh
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Thread: 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh

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    Fellow Frogger! CXVingtCinq's Avatar
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    Default 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh

    I thought I should put some info on here for y'all to look at, laugh at, comment on and generally enjoy my efforts to get my avocado 16TS (Kermit) back into ship shape and roadworthy enough to provide me with some vehicular entertainment over coming years.

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    First some history - I found Kermit via Aussie Frogs and was surprised to see he was only about 180 Klms away in Inverell NSW. Inspection revealed no rust but a lot of neglect. 16 or so years sitting in a shed in Inverell had taken a bit of a toll but no rust was evident and although a blown head gasket was suspected the motor ran. Sort of. So onto a truck and over to Narrabri he went. Some pics at the time are here...

    Renault 16 TS for sale

    After a major clean up effort (including removal of the inevitable dead rat in the engine bay) he didn't look too bad. A thorough bleed of the cooling system showed it was well down on fluid and about half air. A new radiator cap also needed as the old one was in terrible shape. Hence the initial suspicion of head gasket issues. New plugs and points and a bit of basic carby fiddling and it ran OK. Just. Some more pics from after a bit of elbow grease..

    1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1126.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1120.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1113.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-coolant-bleed.jpg

    1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1116.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1121.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1256.jpg
    I took the back wheel and drum off and realised the brakes were far too gone for my basic skills so into town to Narrabri Brake & Clutch for an overhaul in that area. New wheel cylinders (thanks again Mike) and a few other more minor parts and the brakes are as good as new.

    More updates soon.
    forumnoreason, lozenge and ramonm like this.
    Cheers, Peter J
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    Previous - 1984 CX 25 IE : 1976 16TS : 1979 12 Virage

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    Quote Originally Posted by CXVingtCinq View Post
    I thought I should put some info on here for y'all to look at, laugh at, comment on and generally enjoy my efforts to get my avocado 16TS (Kermit) back into ship shape and roadworthy enough to provide me with some vehicular entertainment over coming years.

    First some history - I found Kermit via Aussie Frogs and was surprised to see he was only about 180 Klms away in Inverell NSW. Inspection revealed no rust but a lot of neglect. 16 or so years sitting in a shed in Inverell had taken a bit of a toll but no rust was evident and although a blown head gasket was suspected the motor ran. Sort of. So onto a truck and over to Narrabri he went. Some pics at the time are here...

    Renault 16 TS for sale

    After a major clean up effort (including removal of the inevitable dead rat in the engine bay) he didn't look too bad. A thorough bleed of the cooling system showed it was well down on fluid and about half air. A new radiator cap also needed as the old one was in terrible shape. Hence the initial suspicion of head gasket issues. New plugs and points and a bit of basic carby fiddling and it ran OK. Just. Some more pics from after a bit of elbow grease..

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    I took the back wheel and drum off and realised the brakes were far too gone for my basic skills so into town to Narrabri Brake & Clutch for an overhaul in that area. New wheel cylinders (thanks again Mike) and a few other more minor parts and the brakes are as good as new.

    More updates soon.
    Hello Peter. I see that you have the dreaded 'automatic' rear brake adjusting system. If your brake people get the handbrake to work please ask them how they did it and let me know! After much effort I have now got mine to work on up to a 5 degree slope.
    Citroen DS21 Pallas 1970 Renault 16TS 1976 Renault 5TS 1981

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    So, other improvements after the brakes were done have been - replacement of rear shockies, a new fuel pump (eBay) and filter, NOS taillight glasses and front indicator/parker glasses and some correct plug lead rubber grommets/seals at the rocker cover (thanks RenaultMark).

    1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-new-tail-lights.jpg 1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-img_1969.jpg

    Most recently I have been working on the bonnet hinge which was broken on the passenger side and a blown radiator hose. Next job is repair / replacement of the heater tap under the dash as it has stuck seized about half way on which will be very uncomfortable in warm weather. As a temporary fix I have installed a brass ball tap in the heater pipe as it passes behind the brake booster. See post here about issues with the radiator hose and bonnet hinge.
    R16 TS Questions

    As soon as I can get the radiator hose replaced and Kermit is mobile again, it is off to a friend’s place where there is a car hoist. All 5 wheels will come off for a sandblast, painting and new tyres. Photos to follow when that happens..
    Peter Chisholm likes this.
    Cheers, Peter J
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    Quote Originally Posted by tresbon2 View Post
    Hello Peter. I see that you have the dreaded 'automatic' rear brake adjusting system. If your brake people get the handbrake to work please ask them how they did it and let me know! After much effort I have now got mine to work on up to a 5 degree slope.
    Hello Don. I don't know exactly what they did but the handbrake seems to work well enough for around here. But not many hills to worry about most places here and I really haven't had it out and about as such since the brake work so I'll let you know how it goes. One of the partners (Fred) in Narrabri Brake & Clutch is a friend so I'll get you some info but it might be a month as he is off on a trip with another friend who is in a small group riding motorbikes across Australia from Byron to Broome. Fred is in a 4x4 support ute. They aren't expected back until mid July.
    Cheers, Peter J
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    Don, I had a similar rear brake setup on an R12 wagon and remember I never got the auto adjust to work, so what I did was adjust the brake manually so the drum just fitted, then tested the brakes to make sure they weren't binding too much and weren't pulling. I then fine tuned it by observing the drum temperature as I found one side got hotter, presumably due to greater friction on that side.

    I concluded that a really good clean of the parts, careful lube, and importantly a new set of OEM brake springs would be the cure but I never bothered. I think correct spring tension is the key, but I could be wrong.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Don, I had a similar rear brake setup on an R12 wagon and remember I never got the auto adjust to work, so what I did was adjust the brake manually so the drum just fitted, then tested the brakes to make sure they weren't binding too much and weren't pulling. I then fine tuned it by observing the drum temperature as I found one side got hotter, presumably due to greater friction on that side.

    I concluded that a really good clean of the parts, careful lube, and importantly a new set of OEM brake springs would be the cure but I never bothered. I think correct spring tension is the key, but I could be wrong.
    I had exactly the same problem with my kermit 16TS. Solution the same - adjust manually.

    Don (Devonport version)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Don, I had a similar rear brake setup on an R12 wagon and remember I never got the auto adjust to work, so what I did was adjust the brake manually so the drum just fitted, then tested the brakes to make sure they weren't binding too much and weren't pulling. I then fine tuned it by observing the drum temperature as I found one side got hotter, presumably due to greater friction on that side.

    I concluded that a really good clean of the parts, careful lube, and importantly a new set of OEM brake springs would be the cure but I never bothered. I think correct spring tension is the key, but I could be wrong.
    We had that system and it just worked, always. So I've no idea I'm afraid as I never needed to even look at it.
    JohnW

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    Interesting.. I have made a note to talk to my mate at the brake works when he gets back from his cross Australia trip and let you all know. He is an old fashioned mechanic and probably would have done the manual thing as suggested by Ceenine and Stuey if there was a problem.
    Cheers, Peter J
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    Thanks Peter,

    Great stuff - I know they came in other colours but I remember this included dark red/burgundy, green, white and brown-yellow
    I smile whenever I see a 16TS at car meets or on the road.
    I learnt to drive in one. Dad had a white one, my uncle (his brother) a yellow one (a TL I think) and my grandfather a dark red one...
    I even had an uncle who worked on line assembling them in Heidelberg.
    I still regret I didnt keep Dad's car - I think he sold it for $250 in the late 80s !!
    Thanks for the posts and good luck.

    Ramon
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    1974 DS23 ie Pallas 5 speed

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    Looking at getting the wheels sandblasted and painted soon. Does anyone know the correct silver / grey paint colour for the rims.? Or just any silver is good.? I have these standard type, and not the "special" Gordini copy..

    1976 R16TS - Kermit gets a refresh-r16-ts-front-qtr.jpg
    Cheers, Peter J
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    I'd get them to match paint or powder coat to the outside of the rim where the tyre has protected the paint.
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    JohnW

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    Fellow Frogger! CXVingtCinq's Avatar
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    Thanks John. That's what I was thinking I'd do, but thought there may have been a colour code to be sure.
    Cheers, Peter J
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