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Thread: Little Silver 205SI

  1. #26
    Fellow Frogger! James504's Avatar
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    Colour Code is M0YC.

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    2006 Peugeot 206 Xt
    1991 Toyota mx83 grande 1jzgte

  2. #27
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    James I'm not so sure about that.

    Based on the VIN, specifically the serial (VIS), this is an AM 92 (approx Nov 91) build and Platinum Silver (M0YC) didn't come until the following vintage afaik.

    I believe only Silver (M0TP) or Steel Grey (M1TA) were available for this vintage of the Si.

    Selekta there may be evidence of the paint code stencil on the front top left had corner of the engine bay.


    Quote Originally Posted by James504 View Post
    Colour Code is M0YC.

  3. #28
    Fellow Frogger! James504's Avatar
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    Sure looks like M0YC. I think this was a 93 car however.

    2006 Peugeot 206 Xt
    1991 Toyota mx83 grande 1jzgte

  4. #29
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    James, that's what I was suggesting.

    Platinum Silver (M0YC) actually replaced Silver (M0TP) around the AM93 vintage, but Steel Grey (M0TA) and Graphite Grey (M0TW) continued.

    Refer Peugeot 205 Paint Colours which covers all of the 205 colours and more detail on GTi colours and I presume also maps the same for Si's.


    Quote Originally Posted by James504 View Post
    Sure looks like M0YC. I think this was a 93 car however.


  5. #30
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    There are a few imperfections but for a first try Iím pretty chuffed




    Unfortunately the car is going back into daily service for the time being!

    Doesnít mean the progress wonít stop though, as the head needs valve stem seals. Iím going to source a second head and have a GTI 1.6 cam put in it, see how the single point injection copes with the change....
    Last edited by Selekta; 19th March 2018 at 02:07 PM.

  6. #31
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    New brake fluid and O2 sensor has fixed the spongy brakes and occasional hesitation, so that's nice.
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  7. #32
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    Mudane stuff, but good to get it done!

    One of the fuel lines was leaking!



    Waiting on the proper bit so I can get the head off... And timing belt kit from the UK.
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  8. #33
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    Head back from the head shop



    Wheels back from the wheels shop...

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  9. #34
    1000+ Posts CEyssens's Avatar
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    Nice! The pepperpots look great

  10. #35
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    Shiny.



    Can someone please help soothe my worries? The Haynes is a bit light on info...

    The tang on the end of the tensioner, what angle should it be in for its "disengaged" state, and what angle should it be at in its "engaged" state? I won't install the spring until i'm certain i'm setting the tension correctly

    I don't want to get this wrong and stuff the new belt/fresh head...

    Also, is it worth using gasket sealer on the gaskets for the water pump and the thermostat housing/block mount... coolant distribution block... thing?

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  11. #36
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Selekta View Post
    Shiny.
    Can someone please help soothe my worries? The Haynes is a bit light on info...

    The tang on the end of the tensioner, what angle should it be in for its "disengaged" state, and what angle should it be at in its "engaged" state? I won't install the spring until i'm certain i'm setting the tension correctly

    I don't want to get this wrong and stuff the new belt/fresh head...

    Also, is it worth using gasket sealer on the gaskets for the water pump and the thermostat housing/block mount... coolant distribution block... thing?
    Don't things look great when shiny like that?

    The "tang" is meant to release the tension on the belt when installing/removing the belt with the spring in place, so all you have to do is slacken the tensioner bolts, twist the cam to pull the tensioner roller against the spring force away from the belt and then the belt can be removed easily.

    In normal operation it doesn't have any role to play and can sit exactly as it does in your picture. You need to do it up to secure the tail of the tensioner bracket. The cam bolt that protrudes from the block should have a square or hex so you can turn it and/or hold it when doing up the nut.

    To adjust the proper belt tension, you need in theory to use the tool that reads the tension and adjust to spec. The spring will pull the idler almost home, you just need to push it tight and clamp the tensioner bracket. I use common sense built on servicing a shitload of cars. Never had a belt snap or too slack. Usually tension until I can not deflect the direct run of the belt by hand in any way (or if you try to twist it, you can only twist it very little). This may err a bit, but it will be on the side of caution. I do however religiously change timing belts at specified intervals, by mileage or age, no matter how good they look, together with water pumps and all idlers/tensioners. I am probably over servicing, but it is cheap insurance as far as I am concerned and my cars have never met a mechanic.

    If you have the OEM gaskets, use them dry after checking surfaces are perfectly flat and mate with no gaps. If you don't have gaskets, use Threebond paste or Toyota paste. Surfaces need perfect mating as well. Those are the only two things I ever used with 100% success (no leaks ever). Loctite also makes (or used to make) some sealant goo that you can use on paper/any material gaskets but I used up my last tube and can't seem to find it anymore. Very good, sticky as shit stuff, you can use them with coolant, oil, petrol, brake fluid, g'box oil, literally anything you like because these three things are impervious to petrol and lubricants, etc, etc, whatever and don't harden, come off relatively easily and don't leave any residue or corrode metals in any way. I have also tried Hylomar, but wasn't happy with that. There was some residue left and it sort of tarnished/stained/whatsamacallit freshly machined surfaces.

    If you use the above, let them cure and then clean excess, it will come off very easily. Don't try to clean whilst still wet because you're going to end up with a mess everywhere.

    The coolant distribution thingo at the back of the block has an O ring on the contact to the block. If yours is aluminium, check how well it mates the block face, and check the block face itself how good it looks. If there's any corrosion, you better clean it off and reface the mating surface with a stone for flatness both on the block and the thingo. If you were here, I could have skimmed it on the mill, but you can face it on a piece of sandpaper 400-600 grit glued (I use carpet tape) to a piece of glass or something rigid and flat with a bit of WD40 or sprayed with water. You can use the same approach to face the mating face on the block (use a small piece of rigid metal machined flat with some sandpaper glued on). Check the spouts for corrosion (the thermostat housing is more prone to corrosion - can be a problem).

    If the thingo is plastic, just clean the O ring groove.

    After that, put the o ring in and check it shows above the mating face of the coolant distributor, so it will compress a bit when bolted to the block, otherwise it won't seal. I use silicone grease on the o ring, the real stuff made by Dow Corning or some other horrible chemicals' company like that, which irreversibly damages the environment. That stuff won't come off with coolant or anything for that matter, don't get it on your hands or you'll wear it. I use it on all hose joints where the clips attach so the rubber doesn't fuse itself to the metal/plastic. Never had a hose that will refuse to come off, never had a leak with that stuff, doesn't attack anything (it is food grade rated). I also use it to protect electrical connectors from water ingress, but make sure you don't get it on the contacts themselves, or you'll have trouble with the electricals forever.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 27th April 2018 at 01:48 AM.
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    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  12. #37
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    Cheers! I've refitted the spring, I see how it works now, the tang interfaces with the little corner of the water pump to lever the pully away from the belt. Easy.

    Is it correct to nip up the two tensioner nuts after the belt is in place? Seems to stop the spring from actuating the tensioner is all.

    The machine shop seems to still have my rocker cover, so that's slowed progress for now... Got all of the belt stuff together, checked the timing, seems all good. Decided to get to the roof.



    Not perfect... I'll redo it in the future. I'm looking to buy a new place with more garage space so I think I may look into a proper spray booth, I seem to be enjoying painting the car much more than I am fiddling with the oily bits...

    Intake manifold gasket.



    There's the big paper one, OK... but do those circular orangey brown one go with it as well? When removing the intake there was orange brown O rings as well as the paper gasket.

    Cheers

  13. #38
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    After tensioning the belt, you should do up all the bolts so yes, the spring doesn't do much then. I guess the spring is there only so it keeps a bit of tension on the belt to prevent it coming off the camshaft and/or crankshaft pulley when you want to do the water pump or something.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  14. #39
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    I guess 80nm to an M10 bolt is a bit too much.... should have been 40nm!



    Hope I haven't damaged anything...

    While I wait for a new bolt...

    What are these meant to cover?


  15. #40
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    New bolt, buttoned it up and... fired up first crank!

    I did prime the fuel system but still...

    Iím a bit worried that it started so easy with no weird noises. Is that a rational response? :-/

  16. #41
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    The two round "tinny" things fit over the nut on the antenna inside the car (You only need one though).
    Present fleet:-
    Peugeot 93' 205 Gti 16v
    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
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    Renault 72' 16TS from new
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    "Be reasonable do it my way!"


  17. #42
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    Oh, from when I was swapping the antenna out. Been racking my brain wondering if they go over the tensioner, over the water pump, everything... Was wondering why they weren't in the bags with the other things!

  18. #43
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    Pictures of the antenna swap would be lovely!
    87 S1 205 GTI / GTI6 powered a project underway
    306 convertible (gti6 candidate)
    307 HDi wagon
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  19. #44
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    Sure thing

    Pull the centre roof light out (or... if it's like this one, it'll just fall out when you remove the electrical tape ) and you'll see this



    Remove the cap and you see this



    Undo the 8mm nut and then the antenna comes off.

    I don't have any pictures of the old one, but it was taped together, so the reception didn't work. This one is much better.


  20. #45
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    You do know you can just unscrew the antenna whip from its base as well, right?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  21. #46
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    Yep, thatís where the original one on this car was snapped, didnít want to risk snapping the new one too trying to get it apart... and it had to come off for roof paint anyway

    Hey while youíre here - the photo up above with the antenna caps - from the left - alternator tensioning part, antenna cap, antenna cap... the three brackets to the right, what are they for?

  22. #47
    1000+ Posts CEyssens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Selekta View Post
    Yep, thatís where the original one on this car was snapped, didnít want to risk snapping the new one too trying to get it apart... and it had to come off for roof paint anyway

    Hey while youíre here - the photo up above with the antenna caps - from the left - alternator tensioning part, antenna cap, antenna cap... the three brackets to the right, what are they for?
    Good to see youíre getting all the details done while youíre going and not just taping around the antenna and painting

    Itís looking really good

  23. #48
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    The roof has taught me the important lesson of temperature ranges when laying paint, unfortunately

    I mean, it looks better than it did before, but it definitely will need to be redone at some point!

  24. #49
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    And we're going again.



    Lets hope the paint doesn't start peeling at the A pillar line... should have done the entire pillar, but... I didn't.



    Hasn't been polished or waxed yet so it's a bit rough. Garage was too cold when laying the clear.

    These two were casualties from the entire ordeal - Any ideas where they go?



    Car seems to be running well, a slight misfire which seemed to clear up as it got warmer. Will monitor it. Idle was also hunting a bit between 950 - 1100 rpm, but very, very slowly. Appears to have cleared up when warm, perhaps the computer learning, unsure, will monitor.

    The coolant hoses, thermostat housing and oil filler plastic and rubbers are all trash, where should I order new ones from? Were UK cars set out the same?
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  25. #50
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    That lasted long.



    Couldn't get the (seriously in dire need of replacement) thermostat outlet to seal properly, and the hoses are bad as well.

    Found a UK seller who had lots of NOS parts, so new aluminium coolant pipe, thermostat housing, various trim bits etc are on their way over, as well as a BakerBM GTi coolant hose kit, so waiting on those.

    Of course pulling apart more stuff means finding more stuff that needs replacing...



    Currently stuck here, can't get the damn driveshaft out, which means I cannot get the new rear engine mount in.


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