Faster Floride - upgrade project
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Thread: Faster Floride - upgrade project

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Faster Floride - upgrade project

    This project was originally under a thread called “1959 Floride Restoration” started by the cars previous owner. Since it is not a restoration of an original car, I have started this new thread.

    Finally got the paint finished today so the assembly can now begin. I have to resist the temptation to get too carried away on assembly until the paint has a little time to cure.


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    Springs and shocks from Mecaparts are at the post office waiting collection. I have gone for 210 mm free length fronts and standard 275 mm rears although I may cut half a coil from the rear to stiffen it up a little and lower it a tad.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trifd4b.jpg

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Interesting what you said about the rear springs. My restoration 'BARNIE' is a 1963 R8 fitted with a 16TS engine. When I took the old springs out there was a separate coil (1 turn) sitting under each spring. I reckon it was to lift the back up for rally work.
    I took it out and reassembled the suspension minus the (1 turn) coils.

    Can't wait to get the brakes finished to get it on all fours on the deck to measure the heights front and back. Friend of mine has recently done some spring mods and the R8 now measures 627 - 630mm measuring from the ground to the center of the chrome side strip, measurement taken straight up through the wheel area.

    Cheers
    Phil

    Cheers
    Phil




    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    This project was originally under a thread called “1959 Floride Restoration” started by the cars previous owner. Since it is not a restoration of an original car, I have started this new thread.

    Finally got the paint finished today so the assembly can now begin. I have to resist the temptation to get too carried away on assembly until the paint has a little time to cure.


    Springs and shocks from Mecaparts are at the post office waiting collection. I have gone for 210 mm free length fronts and standard 275 mm rears although I may cut half a coil from the rear to stiffen it up a little and lower it a tad.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    My R8G has a 1605 engine with forged pistons, big cam, twin 45 DCOE Webers etc but it is the R18 type with the crank pulley on the back of the motor. This makes it easier to fit the alternator at the rear instead of being at the firewall/fuel tank end.

    With all the fiberglass panels on the front of the R8G, including the guards, I found that even the meca 200mm front springs were too high for the 240 mm rears. The standard rear spring has a free length of about 300 mm.
    I used some spare race springs I had on the shelf where lower again, about 260 lb/inch made from tapered wire producing a progressive rate - softer in the first 5 mm of travel increasing as the wheel compresses, great in wet weather.

    The 200mm fronts work well on the Alconi which has all the steel panels.

    The Floride project is same basic layout to my R8g with similar engine and front aluminium radiator but no fiberglass.

    It is worth weighing everything as you do the build to ensure the weight distribution is improved. For example although the R16 motor is about 20kg heavier, you move over 20kg to the front with the radiator and associated support panel, glass bottle, jack, plus you get even more weight off with fiberglass rear panel, guards, engine lid and no bumpers. I have not bothered with glass panels on the Floride but the radiator and heater are all in the front and the electric water pump also saves a bit.
    R8philSA and geckoeng like this.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    More parts fitted up today including Master cylinder and pedals. The brake switch has to be relocated when using the A110 tandem cylinder. The brake pedal is too close to the hydraulic switch so the outlet is sealed. I will fit a mechanical switch activated by the pedal movement same as the Alconi and R8G.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-tricf4.jpg

    Radiator in and fans being mounted. Heaps more space available than the R8G

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trid3ca.jpg

    More space in the rear too and the oil cooler will have good airflow. The oil filter mount is an old remote mount I had from a Valiant slant 6. I used a lot of them back in the day before that style of aftermarket alloy mount became so easily available.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-tri9055.jpg

    The new gear shift base is one I saw on Chris Lees project here. Not sure if the grub screws to hold the spacers on the shaft will be up to the task but time will tell.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-tric3d4.jpg

    I have plenty to do while I keep trying to find a 16TS crownwheel and pinion for the big gearbox.

    Cheers all.
    Last edited by Bustamif; 16th January 2018 at 05:35 PM.
    59 Floride and geckoeng like this.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Back onto the Floravelle assembly now that the Phillip Island event is over. Thanks to Bazzamac for bringing some new discs to Phillip Island I have all the bits to put the front suspension in this weekend. The brake lines and water pipes are being run then the rack goes back in and the rest of the suspension. New springs and shocks all ready to go, bushes have all been replaced and adjustable tie rods on the rack.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trie4bd.jpg

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    can someone tell me is there any difference in a 16ts and16 tl gearboxes? as I have 3 projects that require big box's and I have a 16tl sitting here.
    LIFES TOO SHORT TO DRIVE BORING CARS!

  7. #7
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    The tl is usually an automatic so it won't work as the basis for a big box.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I have noticed that the gear lever bearing block I've used that you have also used is stopping my car going into reverse, something to check. The fix will be to enlarge the hole in the floor.

    Yours might be ok as I've also put a jog in my gear linkage to shorten the throw even further.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using aussiefrogs mobile app

  9. #9
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    Thanks c.lees, because the floor was replaced I had the option of moving the mounting holes a little further to the side by about 5mm when I noticed a lack of range towards the reverse plane. I also enlarged the large hole for the gearstick.

    I expect there will be a bit of adjusting of the ratio to get the right amount of movement on the end of the lever. The quality of that unit is OK, especially considering the price, however I put a shim (thin washer) on the top of the bearing to take some of the play out of the housing. Adjusting the ratio will be tricky with the grub screws in the brass spacers and I can see the spacers moving with a bit of hard use. I probably wont put an undertray on for a while as the bugs are ironed out.

    A small setback yesterday when I was about to put the rack in I saw that the rack mount was facing the wrong direction, that explains why one rack in the pile of bits with the car had been cut with a hacksaw, apparently to fit it to the rack mount. I removed the mount to turn it around and found an odd selection of washers and spacers had been used to somehow try to get the rack into the correct position! I should have taken the rack mount out before I painted the car, it was the only removable part still on the car and I assumed it was OK.

    A shame to see that someone in the cars past life took to the rack with a hacksaw to make it fit!

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-dsc07044.jpg Faster Floride - upgrade project-dsc07045.jpg Faster Floride - upgrade project-dsc07047.jpg Faster Floride - upgrade project-dsc07048.jpg

    The holes they drilled in the rear crossmember to mount the suspension arms were 40 mm (1.5 inch) from the correct position !

    Scary to think things like that can be on the road.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    The 16TL I have here is a manual 1.4ltr non cross flow.
    LIFES TOO SHORT TO DRIVE BORING CARS!

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Peter J,

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    1 - 20 of 82 First | < Previous | Next > | Last
    Tables > Renault Gearboxes
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    336-?? 11/38 3.46:1 17/38 2.24:1 23/34 1.48:1 28/29 1.04:1 n/a 9/34 3.78:1 R16 TL, R16TS - Listed in Renault Data EditDelete
    336-?? 11/38 3.46:1 17/38 2.24:1 23/34 1.48:1 28/29 1.04:1 n/a 8/34 4.25:1 R16TL, R16TS - Listed in Renault Data EditDelete
    336-02, 03, 06, 07, 10 13/47 3.61 n/a 2.25:1 23/34 1:48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/34 3.78:1 6/12 2.0:1 R16, R16TL - Crown wheel needs moving to other side to use in europa EditDelete
    336-08 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/34 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/32 3.56:1 6/12 2.0:1 Early S1 – Reverse: Left and Down EditDelete
    336-11, 13, 20, 23, 30, 37, 40, 42 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/34 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/34 3.78:1 6/12 2.0:1 R16, R16TL, R16TA, R16TS - Crown wheel needs moving to other side to use in europa EditDelete
    336-14, 15, 24, 25, 44, 45 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/34 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 8/34 4.25:1 6/14 2.33:1 R16, R16TL, R16TS - Crown wheel needs moving to other side to use in europa EditDelete
    336-26 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/34 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/32 3.56:1 6/12 2.0:1 Late S1/Early S2 – Reverse: Right and Down EditDelete
    336-46 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/24 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/32 3.56:1 6/12 2.0:1 Mid S2 – Reverse: Right and Down EditDelete
    336-56 13/47 3.61:1 n/a 2.25:1 23/24 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/32 3.56:1 6/12 2.0:1 Late S2 - Very Early TC EditDelete
    352-11, 13 13/47 3.61:1 19/43 2.26:1 25/37 1.48:1 31/32 1.03:1 n/a 9/32 3.56:1 6/13 2.17:1 TC, Special, R15TS, R17TL - Shift Rear Entry


    From the Lotus Europa people. Not sure how accurate.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Peter J,
    I am lead to believe that the 8/34 diff is the R8/R10 type and is not suited to the 16TS type motor for the same reasons as the 330 is not suited, too light. Early type box.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  13. #13
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    Peter J, my response was April 1st inspired.

    And Ray, that CWP you sent for my big box unfortunately had a bit too much wear on the shaft to support 4th gear. Send a pm and I'll give you the specs.

    Cheers.

  14. #14
    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    Now I understand the colour scheme, happy easter this coming weekend.
    John
    Александър Кристоф Шанел

  15. #15
    Member nauli's Avatar
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    Bustamif, what is the colour you've painted the car?
    1969 Alpine A110
    2016 Ford Focus RS
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  16. #16
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    The blue is a custom mix prepared for my race team back in the day by Ron Goodman now of Exclusive Body Werks. I don’t have the recipe and doubt he has it on his current system as it was prepared in the early 90’s in consultation with my sponsor BASF.
    I just matched the colour from an old tin I had in the shed, it has a little purple in it compared to a Gordini or A110 blue.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trid3b2.jpg

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    The blue is a custom mix prepared for my race team back in the day by Ron Goodman now of Exclusive Body Werks. I don’t have the recipe and doubt he has it on his current system as it was prepared in the early 90’s in consultation with my sponsor BASF.
    I just matched the colour from an old tin I had in the shed, it has a little purple in it compared to a Gordini or A110 blue.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks superb and really suits the Floride....would probably suit an A110 too!
    Brianbcs likes this.
    1969 Alpine A110
    2016 Ford Focus RS
    2012 Nissan Pathfinder (these have a Renault engine)

  18. #18
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    Busy during the Easter break. Front suspension and rebuilt front calipers in, new discs from Bazzamac on, pedals have new bushes, new accelerator cable run to the back. New slightly stiffer and lower springs from Mecaparts and new shocks. Rebuilt rack in with adjustable tie rods and all new bushes in the front and rear suspension.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trif2af.jpg Faster Floride - upgrade project-tri1491.jpg

    The tandem A110 master cylinder is a snug fit. Road legal (NSW) stainless steel braided line to front and rear brakes.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trib90.jpg

    The accelerator cable is morse cable, not bowden. Less drag, can push and pull and they don't break - the advantage of using some current technology.

    The heater is in the front and takes hot water from the front radiator same as in my R8G. The ducting runs the hot air a short distance to the standard air outlet for the footwell and windscreen. The duct from the heater can't be seen, it connects under the firewall, the silver duct in the pic connects to the windscreen demister outlet. The electric water pump makes sure water temp stays at 80 degrees even in very low temps.

    Faster Floride - upgrade project-trib99b.jpg Faster Floride - upgrade project-tri34bf.jpg

    The wiring in the front is for the front radiator fans which are controlled by a temp probe in the radiator, the electric water pump controller does not do the front fans although there is a trigger from it if necessary to switch on the front fans.

    Next jobs involve adding some trim and wiring while it is at a nice height on the rotisserie before getting the motor and transaxle in after I return the borrowed rotisserie.
    JohnW and Brianbcs like this.

  19. #19
    Member nauli's Avatar
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    Nice work!
    1969 Alpine A110
    2016 Ford Focus RS
    2012 Nissan Pathfinder (these have a Renault engine)

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Agreed, looking very good. I saw your gearbox on Saturday undergoing a rebuild.
    Look forward to seeing the car on the road.

    KB
    KB


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