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Thread: R1190 Project

  1. #26
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    The block is definitely originally an 1100, so as someone mentioned previously the only way it could be a 1.4 is if someone machined out the block a long time ago to suit a 1.4 crank and liners. The clutch and flywheel end of the crank would tell you that detail.

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    The carbie looks like the original solex however, so can’t see why someone would go to that trouble and leave the original carbie on. The rocker cover may just have been drilled to suit the third stud.
    KB


  2. #27
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Ps - to get the rear guards off, don’t forget the three hidden nuts on the C pillar on the inside of the guard. It think they are 15 or 17mm.
    The fronts have a few bolts that can also be hidden by mud or body shutz but they are a bit more obvious. All of those should be 10mm.
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    KB


  3. #28
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    Thanks. Gaurds are coming off now

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  4. #29
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    Yup. Looks like standard neglected R10 1100. Funny about the rocker cover breather butting against the carby heater hose though - the breather spigot is on the correct side of the rocker cover but at the wrong end. R12 rocker cover perhaps? Dunno.

    Expect corrosion in the cooling system...... With luck it won't be too bad.
    JohnW

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  5. #30
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    RH Rear fender off

    R1190 Project-1512787941257.jpgR1190 Project-1512787947815.jpgR1190 Project-1512787973796.jpg

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  6. #31
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    R1190 Project-1512790512415.jpg

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  7. #32
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    Not too bad really. Nothing fatal for that shell yet?

    Don't lose the securing nuts.....

    Cheers
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    JohnW

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  8. #33
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    Nah not yet. Will keep chipping away

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  9. #34
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    Any tips on taking off the hand brake cable the caliper? Its been dragging along the ground....

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  10. #35
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    Yup. It's slightly different from mine, as the end of the cable on yours is in that cubic block, whereas mine is in a smaller, round housing with a slot (see photos). Either way, it is the end of the handbrake cable housing. Maybe the R10s had the big cubic thing as part of the cable assembly, whereas mine slots into the smaller rounded fitting.

    The big nut is the lock nut for the handbrake adjustment (just nip them up by the way, not too tight) and the long threaded rod is the handbrake adjustment. Under the steel cube, not quite visible on your photo, is a 14 mm spanner hexagon - just screw the threaded part it right out of the calliper with lots of WD40 (it is steel into alloy female thread and yours is pretty corroded).

    I imagine the end of that threaded rod is the same as mine, that is the cubic steel block extends as a pin that goes into a hole in the end of the long threaded rod and can rotate. There is a small steel pin driven through the hexagon at the end of the threaded rod - to get the handbrake cable fitting off, you drive out that tiny pin, once you've worked out where the Hell it actually is. You can see the small pin on the hexagon on my second photo.

    I've found you don't need the pin again as the handbrake cable end fitting is pulled INTO the rod by the handbrake action.

    Straightforward once you have done it.

    Have fun.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R1190 Project-handbrake-cable-mount-separate.jpg   R1190 Project-handbrake-cable-mount-calliper.jpg  
    JohnW

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  11. #36
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    Aha, just checked under my R8. My replacement cable (perhaps 1976!) has that same cubic block, so the cable housing doesn't come out of it at all. You just need to get the block off the long threaded rod by driving the hidden pin out of the hex fitting. Note that the block should rotate around the threaded rod, as the rod turns to adjust the handbrake. If you are going to replace the cable, just cut the thing off with bolt cutters. Get the calliper off the car and work on it in a vice on the bench.
    JohnW

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  12. #37
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    Had a glimmer of hope when I peeled the rear quarter away but with further inspection towards the front (and this time knowing where to look thanks to some fellow Froggers) there are some trouble spots. In particular the underbody cross-members are essentially no longer there. (they made very scary crunching sounds when I used a jack on them). The bottom of the windscreen is rusty and someone has tried bogging them.

    Not giving up yet but if its gonna be done properly it'll need some work on a rotisserie.

    P.S. sorry for the upside down photos.... trying to fix that.

    R1190 Project-1512802580178.jpgR1190 Project-1512802585273.jpgR1190 Project-1512802592430.jpgR1190 Project-1512802597773.jpg

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  13. #38
    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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  14. #39
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    It looks pretty bad and will need a lot of work, but it could be saved with enough commitment. There is not much holding it in shape if the crossmembers are rusted through and it is likely to be in need of some chassis alignment. There wont be much left if you dip and sandblast it so you may have to think about swapping all the running gear into another shell as a plan B.

  15. #40
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeMansTragic View Post
    Any tips on taking off the hand brake cable the caliper? Its been dragging along the ground....

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    The rubber bellow is holding/jamming the cable into the square block. The cable will just pull out leaving the block and adjuster bolt still attached to the caliper.
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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan moore View Post
    The rubber bellow is holding/jamming the cable into the square block. The cable will just pull out leaving the block and adjuster bolt still attached to the caliper.
    Thanks Alan. It's decades since I touched it!
    JohnW

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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    It looks pretty bad and will need a lot of work, but it could be saved with enough commitment. There is not much holding it in shape if the crossmembers are rusted through and it is likely to be in need of some chassis alignment. There wont be much left if you dip and sandblast it so you may have to think about swapping all the running gear into another shell as a plan B.
    Brave though. There are sound ones around.....
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  18. #43
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    That'll just buff out. I sent my first shell to scrap after working on it for a year. My second one was also full of rust, I've spent a lot of time fixing it.

    If you can find another shell it may be easier to just send that one to scrap. If you do get rid of it first cut out all the good parts of the shell, I regret not doing that on my first, there are parts I could have used.




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