1970 ID19 "Josephine"
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Thread: 1970 ID19 "Josephine"

  1. #1
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Default 1970 ID19 "Josephine"

    Hi Guys/Gals,
    I have recently purchased an ID19 from one of the forum members and as most daily drivers it is a bit rough around the edges.
    Here are a couple photos of it
    1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_0400.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-p1011016p1011016.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-p1011017p1011017.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-p1011018p1011018.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-p1011032p1011032.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-p1011033p1011033.jpg

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  2. #2
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    The first order of business is to get it running. The starter motor is cactus so that had to come out. What a PITA of a job!!
    While I had everything out I may as well clean it all up and therefore bought a sand blaster and some high temp paint1970 ID19 "Josephine"-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-2.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-3.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-4.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-11.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-13.jpg.
    This is as far as I got so far.
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  3. #3
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    You certainly won't miss that one in the bowling club car park! Or on a dark and stormy night.

    Hopefully, there is rather less rust than the previous 'project' revealed. Basic cleaning, 'de-blacking' and adding hubcaps will give it a lift. Maybe, a set of non-Pallas side strips to break up the visual impact of a very bright colour?

    It does have some useful mods from those pictures - Weber carby, thermo fan, a threaded carby inlet barb, local solid state voltage regulator, twin cabin fans etc..

    The clamp between the downpipe and the flexible pipe doubles as a mount to the side of the sump. Look for the bracket there as they are often broken through. The idea is that the downpipe is fixed to the engine and the movement taken up by the flex pipe. If the bracket there is missing, the flexing also goes on where the downpipe bolts up to the manifolds and it may then leak there.
    Last edited by David S; 20th May 2017 at 02:30 PM.

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    Hi the plan is grey palladium with red interior. The colour won't make the cut.
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    Hey,
    I am currently restoring the steering wheel to its former glory by re-wrapping it and cleaning it up. I've so far repainted it and polished the T shape cover. The plastic sheath looks a little worse for wear as it is faded and would be letting the wheel down. I came up with a way to "restore" its appearance by using high gloss shoe polish. I used black, as that is the color of mine, and buffed it with a microfiber cloth. It has come up great. The black is black again so if anyone is in the same boat and looking to renew it's definitely worth the try.

  6. #6
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    I think I have seen this car many many years ago in Emerald. It was yellow with a black roof. It belonged to a Dutchman who sold it to a friend of mine (well his father). This would have been in around 2009. Had fake black sheepskin seat covers. I believe that I have seen the car around Burnley/Richmond area in more recent years.

    Best of luck with the restoration project. Your chosen colour combination sounds wonderful. One of my favourites (even if it is from 1968 and not from 1970 like your ID19).
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  7. #7
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Finally got my steering wrap from CitroClassic in the UK.
    This is the fruit of my evening.
    1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4424.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4425.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4426.jpg

    This is definitely a two man job but otherwise fairly straightforward. Couple of ciders and the wife helped it along.
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  8. #8
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    1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_44271.jpgTwenty four hours of cure et voila
    Last edited by cocoelguapo; 3rd June 2017 at 06:27 PM.
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  9. #9
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    I decided to take the radiator shroud off today as I have a replacement and as per usual fixed everything that came off. Here's my days work.1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-1-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-2-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-3-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-4-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-5-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-6-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-7-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00431-8-1.jpg
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  10. #10
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Dragged myself out tonight to re assemble.1970 ID19 "Josephine"-dsc_00451-2-1.jpg

  11. #11
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    The car is now being disassembled. The interior is all out and will wait till it gets its new coverings from Europe later in the year.
    The roof is also off as the headliner previously installed was scraped and seems to have been painted with a roller and the selastic job around the roof was sub-par to say the least.
    The roof being off the liner was stripped and will receive a new headliner over some sound deadening sheets. The paint chipped away when I removed the roof and I ended up stripping it all right back. 6 different colours,3mm of paint and 3 nights later it was stripped bare. New high fill was applied and then sealer/primer. It has now been sanded flat and is now ready for its final paint.

    1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4447.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4450.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4451.jpg

    I have deviated a little from my initial paint idea. I am now thinking a Merlot Wine metallic. I have a good friend of mine which was able to give me an idea of what it may look like when painted, and i like it though my idea of it would be a little darker still.1970 ID19 "Josephine"-19451957_10211711123869396_134346865_o.jpg
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  12. #12
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    There's one about that colour in Perth. Quite superb IMHO. Good luck with the work.
    JohnW

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    Agree with John - would be very nice! Perhaps with a white roof for summer? Nice motor too if it's the 1.9 - smoother than the bigger capacities (IMO).

    Does it have the strip type speedo? We had a similar model, year colour in the early '70s. My dad reckoned it went all quiet when the speedo needle went off the scale on the way from Carnarvon to Perth...with my mum driving and us kids sleeping in the back :-)




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  14. #14
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    The car will sport a black roof as I am going for a more sleek look.
    The interior will be a dark grey with a very light grey roof lining in an effort to lighten the inside and make the car feel more spacious.
    I have just about finished sound proofing the inside of the car and next will be running the wires for the retro radio.
    I have been taking photos and will be posting them soon.

  15. #15
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    Geez, a bit of time has passed since I last posted.
    After a few problems the project is back on track.
    I have taken all panels to the sand blasters and they have come back with a fair few surprises. The replacement panels have been ordered and should be here soon. In the meantime I needed to address a few things. Firstly, the starter I replaced last year was starting to play up so I removed it and got it tested. Came back all good and decided to overhaul the starting circuit, we'll see how that goes.
    Engine was given a good degrease and pads were changed.
    Radiator came out and given the once over, I feel that will need to be replaced at some stage.
    And finally, I took the LHM tank out for a spruce up.
    1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_45782.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_45802.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_45812.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4583.jpg

  16. #16
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    Colour match looks good. What colour did you use please? And is that a sticker? Looks very respectable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Budge View Post
    Colour match looks good. What colour did you use please? And is that a sticker? Looks very respectable.
    It's Brunswick Green and yes that is a sticker though I would have liked a transfer so getting rid of air bubbles wouldn't be such a hassle.

  18. #18
    Member cocoelguapo's Avatar
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    Well after a week of bodywork and not seeing much progress I thought I'd give it a rest and attack some of the rust repairs that are needed. Now this is my first time welding in patch panels and I had a fair few heart in the mouth moments when cutting through the wing of the car. But the "measure twice, cut once" motto on repeat in the back of my head I did an excellent job of cutting the patch panel and wing to make them marry.
    Here are a few photos.1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4584-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4586-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4585-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4587-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4588-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4592-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4594-1.jpg1970 ID19 "Josephine"-img_4595-1.jpg

    One thing to note: I got the rust repair panels from Der Fransoze and got the best quality available. The inner brace is great and looks better than the original, much stronger. The skin on the other hand was a quality 3 (there was no better) by their ranking and it did require a fair bit of mucking around to get it to fit. So keep that in mind if you go down the same route as me.
    Last edited by cocoelguapo; 6th April 2018 at 03:52 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocoelguapo View Post
    It's Brunswick Green and yes that is a sticker though I would have liked a transfer so getting rid of air bubbles wouldn't be such a hassle.
    The way to avoid trapped air (dry application) is to apply wet. Use a spray bottle with a drop of dish washing detergent, a light spray on the part and adhesive side of sticker - this neutralises the adhesive allowing you to move the sticker into position, squeegee out excess moisture and bubbles. It may take a few days for the remaining moisture to completely dry out during which time the sticker may appear hazy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood View Post
    The way to avoid trapped air (dry application) is to apply wet. Use a spray bottle with a drop of dish washing detergent, a light spray on the part and adhesive side of sticker - this neutralises the adhesive allowing you to move the sticker into position, squeegee out excess moisture and bubbles. It may take a few days for the remaining moisture to completely dry out during which time the sticker may appear hazy.

    Cheers
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    Exactly the same technique used by "successful" window tint film installers.
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  21. #21
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    Some good work so far. However, before you go further with that front guard repair, trial fit the glass and surround. It's not an especially easy area to repair properly and have it looking 100% using the repro parts as supplied. They need adjustment and you need to ensure the overall curvature of the glass aperture has no lumps or kinks and will match the glass very closely or you will end up with an unsightly varying gap.

    p.s. MIG welds are usually quite hard material compared to the parent mild steel. If you beat the weld, it can crack or you might just damage your hammer's face. Some heat may be required to reshape the welded area. Try out your technique on some scrap.
    Last edited by David S; 6th April 2018 at 09:37 PM.

  22. #22
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    Looks good! But they're right! you have to be careful in installing those car parts. Make sure it fits and make some adjustments when necessary.

  23. #23
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    Just checked and there is a gap. This'll be fun.

  24. #24
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    A gap in the surrounding trim strip or between the glass and panel? There is meant to be a small gap in the trim so it can be fitted and that is covered by a short stainless closing piece about 2cm long. The rubber strip between the glass and panel seals it and allows a little variation around the aperture, but the gap should be small. You then have the second (different type) rubber strip between the glass and the bucket. The parts diagram is comprehensive and will show you all the hardware you should have, including the different props supporting the bucket.

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