Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 49
Like Tree18Likes

Thread: Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION

    Well I have started the restoration!!
    'BARNIE' is still sitting on the trailer on the back driveway. The mate that owns the trailer is very generous to me. Having it up on the trailer gives better access to the front and front underneath area.
    I have removed all the wheels, removed the tyres from the rims and taken the rims to the sand blasters together with the extractors and rocker box cover. I should get them back tomorrow.
    Removed the rusted grill from the front panel along with the headlights and wiring harness to the front boot. Removed the brake fluid bottle, cleaned, primed and top coat applied. Removed the Radiator and flow checked it. Still had clear green coolant in it and the heater pipes also. It is in top condition, a pressure wash and pressure flush will confirm this. Removed the petrol tank removed the sender unit and torch inspected the inner. Amazing, very clean so just gave it a good inner clean with Carbie cleaner followed by a wash with 2 lts of metho. It came up clean as a whistle. Did a resistance check on the sender unit and it checks out fine. I have started to wire brush the outer as the top was very rusted. Removed the Bonnet and hinges ready for more work later. Then spent about 5hours grinding, cleaning, vacuuming the rust from the boot area. WD-40 and Degreaser are my best friends at the moment.

    Then I cleaned out the interior !! I actually filled a wheelie bin with leaves, sticks, rotted sheepskin seat covers, insect droppings, bird poor and general CRAP that was deposited in the front and back seat areas. I think a quarter of this rubbish came from the front boot area as well. The car must have been left in a paddock with the boot lid, doors and engine lid open for a considerable time then brought into a barn.
    I deliberately havenít started on the engine yet, saving the biggest challenge to last. I love stripping and cleaning engines and then the thrill of assembly and thoes first starting moments just sails my boat.

    Advertisement


    Cheers Phil

    Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1200.jpgBarn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1194.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1195.jpg   Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1196.jpg   Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1197.jpg  

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    2,497

    Default

    Motors are where it's at!

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    630

    Default

    Great to see another R8 saved.

  4. #4
    Tadpole mattyw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Hi Phil, I know that car. A previous owner was a close family friend and I guess you bought it off his son. I'd be very interested to chat and have a look at it. I reckon there is a secret or two that might prove or disprove some of the mythology of this R8 from my youth. It used to be a formidable machine through the hills in the late 80s.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    JohnW likes this.
    1091 Dauphine Gordini (basket case)
    1090 Dauphine (future resto project)
    750 Racer (current project)

    why is it my 3 year old gets more enjoyment out of my cars in the garage, than I do on the road.....

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,777

    Default

    807 engine. I would check the block for corrosion around liner seats first thing. Just in case you don't know already where to find a good block.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    807 engine. I would check the block for corrosion around liner seats first thing. Just in case you don't know already where to find a good block.
    Thanks Schlitzaugen. The whole engine will get a 100% inspection but not just yet. Working on the body at the moment because I can't stand it looking so bad! I have a 1.4 standing by just incase it goes pair shaped. Do you have a spare block ??
    Cheers
    Phil

  7. #7
    Tadpole mattyw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    18

    Default

    I have an 807 laying around..
    ....

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    1091 Dauphine Gordini (basket case)
    1090 Dauphine (future resto project)
    750 Racer (current project)

    why is it my 3 year old gets more enjoyment out of my cars in the garage, than I do on the road.....

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by R8philSA View Post
    Thanks Schlitzaugen. The whole engine will get a 100% inspection but not just yet. Working on the body at the moment because I can't stand it looking so bad! I have a 1.4 standing by just incase it goes pair shaped. Do you have a spare block ??
    Cheers
    Phil
    No.

    But having looked inside many, I have only ever found one corrosion free block (in a car so rusty, I eventually stripped it and sent the shell to the crusher). Some were corroded just beyond imagination, can't imagine how they didn't leak coolant in the sump. That is why I would like to know early if I needed a block. It can take a long time to find one.

    Here you go, you already found one:

    Quote Originally Posted by mattyw View Post
    I have an 807 laying around..
    ....

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Is it a stripped block or a complete engine?
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 16th December 2016 at 02:06 AM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Windsor 2756 NSW Australia
    Posts
    561

    Default

    Maybe a new thread "Repairing 807 block corrosion" is in order. Some here could have personal experience in successful repairs using chemical bonding materials.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Icon10 R8 Barn Find

    Quote Originally Posted by potentz View Post
    Phil,When you pull this one off, you will be elevated to LEGEND PLUS status.!!!!!!!
    Who is going to rust out first?? The car or ME!!!
    JohnW and J-man like this.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Concord City, Sir.
    Posts
    3,324

    Default

    Hmmm.. Looks with worry at the 807 on a stand still in one piece..

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    Maybe a new thread "Repairing 807 block corrosion" is in order. Some here could have personal experience in successful repairs using chemical bonding materials.

    People told me of using Devcon and other stuff like that but I don't have any info of how these behave long term in use. If you believe the ads, should be good.

    Again, never seen a block sealed on the liner seats with these metal resins. Not sure how that would go.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Hi,

    For what it is worth, I have done 3 repairs on that corrosion damage. All successful. Where the corrosion is, I clean and modify the shape of the corrosion until it forms a "bucket" and I then fill it with Pratley Liquid Steel. I use Pratley because it is an South African product and I grew up with it, but I am sure there will be other similar products.

    To clean and hollow the corrosion spot I use a Dremel and an appropriate little burr. My thinking is that if the epoxy lies in a hollow and can't slip out side ways, the sleeve will press it and keep it in position. All it needs to do is keep water out at a pressure of not more than 15 psi and at a temperature of not more than 80 deg C. That is not hard work for epoxies these days.

    You can have a look here 807 Competition motor.

    An easy repair job.

    Regards, Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Windsor 2756 NSW Australia
    Posts
    561

    Default

    There are a quite a few racing applications where steel liners are glued into an alloy block to seal the liners in. In some applications it is necessary to assemble components within the fairly short working time of the sealant before it cures.

    One product I know of is Belzona which is used to shape ports on Porsche race heads. The air cooled motors run very high cylinder head temps. The product handles higher temps than Devcon and is more compatible with alloy/steel expansion rates. I will be trying to save a block with severe corrosion in a few months time after Christmas and I also have a head that needs changes in the water galleries so I hope it works.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mattyw View Post
    I have an 807 laying around..
    ....

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Hi Matt.
    I have just been reading through the replies again to my first post and noticed you said " I have an 807 laying around"
    Any chance the camshaft and the Dizzy/oil pump drive gear are reasonable, mine has broken teeth !!!

    Maybe drop by next week .

    Cheers Phil

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    There are a quite a few racing applications where steel liners are glued into an alloy block to seal the liners in. In some applications it is necessary to assemble components within the fairly short working time of the sealant before it cures.

    One product I know of is Belzona which is used to shape ports on Porsche race heads. The air cooled motors run very high cylinder head temps. The product handles higher temps than Devcon and is more compatible with alloy/steel expansion rates. I will be trying to save a block with severe corrosion in a few months time after Christmas and I also have a head that needs changes in the water galleries so I hope it works.
    I'll be very interested to see how the " Belzona " goes.

    Phil

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Windsor 2756 NSW Australia
    Posts
    561

    Default

    On Australia day I picked up a base engine in good condition and two spare blocks, one with serious corrosion. I will be using Belzona on the head and spare blocks but it will be a while before I do any serious work on the engine as the body is the first priority on my project. I do not represent them in any way however I found the distributor Rezitech to be very helpful. Try [email protected] or phone 03 87208600.

    They are not so busy with mining equipment repairs these days so you may get a friendly rep to take a close look and give some free advice.

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Hi all.

    Been doing a bit on the Barn Find. Started on 9th Dec 2016.

    Washed it !!!
    Cleaned all the rubbish out of it (Filled a Wheelie Bin with RUBBISH !!!)
    Removed front and back bumper bars.

    Removed 4 wheels, extractors and Rocker cover, and have had them sanded blasted and are now painted.

    De-rusted (wire brush) the boot area, bog added, sanded, rust converter applied, primed ready for paint.
    Drivers side front guard, De-rusted (wire brush) bog added, sanded, rust converter applied, primed ready for paint. 3 days work!!
    Passenger side front guard, De-rusted (wire brush) bog added, sanded, rust converter applied, primed ready for paint. 3 days work!!
    Inside cabin. Just cleaned out discovered a large cut-out panel behind rear swab. Allows access for belt changes,timing etc.
    Removed petrol tank, De-rusted (wire brush) internally inspected, sanded, rust converter applied, primed and painted. Fuel gauge transmitter, removed, cleaned and electrically checked.
    Radiator removed inspected, back flushed, like new. Primed and painted.
    Removed distributor, completely stripped, cleaned and re-assembled. Electrically checked OK,
    Removed both 45mm Side draft Webers. Ready for cleaning and overhaul.
    Removed alternator. Ready for cleaning and overhaul.
    Removed Cylinder head and Rocker shaft assembly.
    Freed up the engine. (No lip in any bore) Still a long way to go with the engine.
    Removed the engine lid, stripped it, repaired it,

    A few photos to update some progress :



    Attachment 93515Attachment 93516Attachment 93528Attachment 93529Attachment 93530Attachment 93531Attachment 93532
    Last edited by R8philSA; 4th February 2017 at 02:25 PM. Reason: confused !!!about attachments

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    I have no idea where the R17 Attachments came from. They are not even on my laptop????
    Phil

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    I have no idea where the R17 Attachments came from. They are not even on my laptop???? I see the correct attachments when I go to 'Edit Post' but I cant change the R17 photos. Very confusing!!!
    Phil

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,599

    Default

    Hi Phil,
    The extra pictures in your last thread came from a car in 17TL in "cars for sale".

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by geckoeng View Post
    Hi Phil,
    The extra pictures in your last thread came from a car in 17TL in "cars for sale".

    Ray
    Thanks Ray. It's a real mystery how they turned up on my post ??

    Phil

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Vista SA
    Posts
    986

    Default

    Hi all.
    Well after going through a week of 40degrees PLUS! I finally got into the garage today to finish of the 2nd Weber carbie.
    Photos attached. Interesting , it took me a weeks work and $70 for Weber overhaul kits but I loved doing it and I reckon these came up a treat.
    Now while I have your attention. Who out there amongst you has a good condition R16TS camshaft they don't really need? Happy to pay for it but it must have a good Dizzy drive on it. Also need a good condition Dizzy/Oil Pump drive.

    Cheers
    Phil

    Barn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1200.jpgBarn Find 1963 R8 - RESTORATION-dscn1525.jpg
    J-man and tresbon like this.

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Littlehampton, S.A.
    Posts
    22,838

    Default

    Hi Phil, your carbies are looking beautiful . Looking forward to seeing the other photos that're held hostage by the mystery R17
    cheers,

    John

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,352

    Default

    Did you get inspiration from Brettr for those blue painted inlet manifolds; or was that an aircraft maintenance thing?
    KB
    KB


Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •