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Thread: Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!

  1. #101
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIVEDOOR View Post
    He has, the phone wasn't connected by wire to the wall

    Yes, it is. I just upgraded to a long extension cord.

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    FIVEDOOR likes this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  2. #102
    Fellow Frogger! moeozz's Avatar
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    Good news... I found a complete Series 1 Lower dash (surround + glovebox)! Dash now complete.

    Bad news... I still can't get my cluster sensors working. I spent a few hours troubleshooting, I think there may be short somewhere. My multi-meter is picking up continuity between:


    • Fuel pump (wire 76) and ground
    • ECU switched power (wire 2) and ground
    • Oil pressure switch (30B) and ground.
    • Headlights and indicators still work, but when disconnected, they are also grounded.
    • A few others too.


    I'm no electrician so please correct me I've I'm wrong, but this isn't normal right? If so, it's strange the engine even starts!
    Apart from retracing every single wire, is there an easier way of finding a short?
    current S1 205 GTI + S3 306 GTI6
    previous s2 306 GTI6

  3. #103
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Let me guess. You're using one of those el cheapo meter jobbies for 10 bucks from Supershit, right?

    That will show continuity when measuring low resistance. For instance when detecting zero resistance (continuity to ground) on the pump wire, did you have the pump ground disconnected? Because the circuit closes through the pump to the ground and the pump has very low resistance. A cheap piece of a dorongo will tell you the resistance is zero and make it look like your wire is shorted to the ground.

    Likewise everything else. All circuits close to ground even if through the battery (which of course has a low resistance) or through the globe, senders, fan motors, relay coils, whatever else have you. Did you disconnect the battery and all these end consumers when measuring? Try that and see what happens. I bet you won't find continuity again in most cases (between positive power feeds and ground, that is).

    Moral is, use a good multimeter, otherwise you'll chase your tail like there's no tomorrow. Having to redo my wiring I cracked up and bought a Fluke meter. Like any other good tool it makes a world of difference (as in the difference between making sense of things and confusing yourself to the point of madness). Best 300$ spent ever even if only for having helped me figure out the mess previous owners had left behind.

    Use reason. If the pump positive power feed were grounded you'd have a nice fireworks display and your wiring would be cactus when you switched the ignition on. Or you wouldn't have +12V at the pump and the pump would not work.

    An alternative to buying an expensive meter is to check circuits for +12V with the ignition on (or off, as the case may have to be). Even a crap meter should not err then. Problem is if you cause any shorts (what sort of probes do you use?). Then you'll see for real what's on and what's not. The other problem is of course you can't check wires at ground potential.

    My suggestion is to disconnect the wires you want to check at both ends and then check for continuity directly on the ends. That is one way to avoid confusion. Be suspicious of wires that show anything other than a dead zero (good meter needed here). It may be a sign of poor continuity because of corrosion especially at connector ends where insulation was removed to crimp terminals on. Inspect and if wires look dark (instead of copper red), your wires are corroded and contact is most likely dubious. Not to mention you might find spades themselves full of corrosion (if your car is anything like mine).

    PS. Oil pressure switch (idiot light sender, I presume) is grounded when the engine isn't running, of course (because you don't have oil pressure, right?). Did you test with the engine running?

    I think you said you couldn't get the low oil pressure (idiot light) to come on and didn't know what to suspect. Did you try to connect a small 12V globe directly on the sender terminal and the battery plus? The globe should be on when the engine isn't running and it should go off when the engine is (if your engine has oil pressure). But you knew this already, right?

    Oh, and check the ground strap to your block whilst you're there.

    Likewise, on the dash, the connection to the light is direct (doesn't connect with anything else). Try a positive 12V on the correct tab and see if the light comes on. That will take out of the equation two variables. You're left with the sender wire and connections along the way.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 20th June 2017 at 10:06 AM.
    moeozz likes this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  4. #104
    Fellow Frogger! moeozz's Avatar
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    Long time between updates. Took some time away from the project but now getting back into things.

    Things done:

    • The main section of my dash was in 5 pieces and literally every mount point was broken. I created new mounts out of aluminium plates, glued everything back together and fiberglassed the inside. It's perfect now, no squeaks and very strong. It would probably be the only thing that survives a crash!
    • Painted my window switch housing and replaced switches.
    • Heater Matrix replaced, no more coolant dripping down the footwell
    • Complete set of 15" SMR's finally found!
    • Perfect phase 1 Steering wheel found. Dash is 100% complete but will be the last thing I put back into the car.
    • Reproduction carpet and underlay ordered from the UK (newton commercial)
    • I've also purchased some pingjing soundproofing (dynamat alternative) to try and keep noise levels at a minimum.

    Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!-dash-fiberglass2.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-dash-fiberglass.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-img_0030.jpg


    Things to do:

    • Fix exhaust. Even with the Wedge plate, the manifold hits the side of the bulkhead opening. I've managed to free up 5mm but still hits on heavy engine movement.
    • Horns still not working
    • Oil Temp Gauge either not working, or taking forever to register output.
    • Gear shift is sloppy. Fix gear linkages and/or install short shifter.
    • Replace front Windscreen. Currently has stone chips and minor crack starting to form.
    • Create air filter housing for Road Worthy compliance.

    Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!-22769688_10214380784816071_4378106497492550951_o-1-.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-22814294_10214380785056077_6845648890391335411_n.jpg


    I did take it for a 20 min drive and to my surprise it didn't blow up! But I'll need to fix all the above before I can truly sleep well at night and get it re-registered!
    current S1 205 GTI + S3 306 GTI6
    previous s2 306 GTI6

  5. #105
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    Nice work indeed, the dash is a frigging jigsaw, you have gutted yours, what about the air con dusts? An the same little puce ***h3ad broke on mine under the instrument cluster, it holds the cradle that supports the cluster. Keep at it and I am with you,, much the same efforts\ Keep the ehad clear and on the project, it will help.

    Matt
    87 S1 205 GTI / GTI6 powered a project underway

  6. #106
    Fellow Frogger! moeozz's Avatar
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    Thanks Matthew. Let's bring our S1's back to life!

    Yes the aircon ducts is another part which clips onto the dashboard. This was still in 1 piece but the clips and screws were broken.
    I used sikaflex 227 and glued the 2 parts back together, held by clamps and left to settle overnight. I then bought some of this seal to ensure everything was air tight and cushiony when put back into place (see 2nd pic below). The original seals had disintegrated into dust so I'm happy with the results.

    Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!-dash.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-dash2.jpg
    Richard W likes this.
    current S1 205 GTI + S3 306 GTI6
    previous s2 306 GTI6

  7. #107
    Fellow Frogger! moeozz's Avatar
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    • New Carpet arrived from the UK, looks great but yet to install.
    • Soundproofing 90% complete, although it adds overall weight, the panels don't sound like tin can anymore.
    • New Windscreen installed
    • Created prototype Air Filter box. The filter is not fully enclosed but very secure and hopefully suitable to standards. I'm not sure where to run the intake duct just yet but it'll probably come from the lower bumper somewhere. Will paint it black as I don't like the Chrome finish.

    Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!-carpet.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-filter-box.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-filter-box2.jpgFinally bought a 205...now the problems!!-filter-box3.jpg
    CEyssens likes this.
    current S1 205 GTI + S3 306 GTI6
    previous s2 306 GTI6

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