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Thread: Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016

  1. #151
    Fellow Frogger! ds21bvh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by faulksy View Post
    A stocking in the top hose does wonders for catching all manner of crud floating around the system. Just remember to change it frequently otherwise it can compound the issue.
    A couple of points with the stocking...
    Double the stockings up - that is put one inside the other.
    Push the full length of the stocking into the top tank through the top radiator hose hole.
    This gives a large area for water flow and can accommodate more junk than you would believe.
    I've seen people just put a piece of stocking across the radiator hole and put the hose on - that will block up very quickly.
    Cheers,
    Mark...

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  2. #152
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    I took the end tanks of some old Xantia radiators recently because I can use the tanks on the wider XM radiator core. One had strands of red goop inside, so someone had used too much sealant somewhere and it had broken off and found it's way into the radiator. A flush wasn't going to remove them easily. Be careful using these products as the extra stingy bits break off and end up in either the sump or radiator.
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  3. #153
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    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016-1521107772317.jpg
    Can anyone recommend a treatment for the rusted chrome headrest rails? They don't need to be like new, but I'd like to see a considerable improvement!

  4. #154
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    They must be some of the few items that are plated and not stainless. Try cleaning it and coating with clear. A $10 spray can of acrylic clear will go a long way here. Very fine steel wool can help with bad chrome, but you always risk adding little scratches everywhere. Polish like Autosol only goes so far with rust pinpricks in chrome, which where the steel wool can work well. So-called 'Chrome' paints are improving all the time, so they may be worth trying and let you avoid the silverfrost look. Rust converters may discolour the surface, so choose something to dissolve the rust, but not convert it. Then you may have clean bright steel to paint clear over instead of rust.

  5. #155
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    Another approach might be to use superfine steelwool to remove the rust then use some oil or Canubra wax rubbed in to seal it, make sure it is totally dry when applying, this is what I am thinking of doing when I get round to fixing mine in 2032.
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  6. #156
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    Another useful abrasive medium if one is wanting to remove rust etc without doing much damage to surrounding metal is Scotchbrite - one can get at east three grades, from coarse to fine ( red, grey, green ) Auto paint suppliers and good hardware places have them

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Another approach might be to use superfine steelwool to remove the rust then use some oil or Canubra wax rubbed in to seal it, make sure it is totally dry when applying, this is what I am thinking of doing when I get round to fixing mine in 2032.
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  7. #157
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    Melanie,
    I have the same headrests in the same color. The chrome is in slightly better condition and the fabric is fine
    I think I would take the chrome off (how ????) and then spray with clear so they would look like stainless steel
    They are yours if you want them
    Cheers
    Ian
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  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Watkins View Post
    Another useful abrasive medium if one is wanting to remove rust etc without doing much damage to surrounding metal is Scotchbrite - one can get at east three grades, from coarse to fine ( red, grey, green ) Auto paint suppliers and good hardware places have them

    Andrew
    Red (brown) is medium, grey fine and green coarse.

    Brown is fantastic for cleaning cooking pots -because it really "bites" into the food and doesn't scratch the pots. I've used it for years.

    Genuine 3m scotch brite is far better than the copies.
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  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueduck View Post
    Melanie,
    I have the same headrests in the same color. The chrome is in slightly better condition and the fabric is fine
    I think I would take the chrome off (how ????) and then spray with clear so they would look like stainless steel
    They are yours if you want them
    Cheers
    Ian
    That's a very kind offer, thank you, and I may well take you up. But, I think I'll see if I can get the chrome off, and go from there. At the least, it will give me a chance to learn about the process, even if it doesn't work out.

    Sent from my LG-H815 using aussiefrogs mobile app

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    Do the rusted chrome parts completely remove from the fabric? If so, you could try simple electrolysis to remove the rust. Google it. Plan B would be to dissolve the chrome off using a chemical. Again, several household chemicals can apparently do the trick (never tried it myself, though i do extra-plate parts and have used electrolysis to remove rust).
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  11. #161
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    If I had no other chemicals to hand, I would probably try vinegar, which is a very weak acid. Spend $1 at Woolies or Coles. Vinegar saturated with salt is more effective as a bath, but probably not needed here.

    Molasses acts as a chelating agent and draws the iron out of the corrosion products - i.e. the rust. This is why people can use a bath for their rusted old parts. It's kind to the good metal and acts slowly giving good control.

    A faster acting (still a slow process) chelating agent is Deox-C from Bilt-Hamber UK and sold locally by the POR importers.
    Bilt Hamber Car Wax, Polish & Clay Bars @PPCCO online shop
    It is unfortunately expensive, but comes as either a powder to make a both or as a gel you can paint on and then wait patiently. The gel would be most effective here and leave you with clean bright metal.

    A word of caution about chelating baths is that it will leave a black residue on your parts if you leave it there too long. This is most likely carbon remaining after the iron has been stripped away from the surface. It is more obvious with a product like Deox-C as it is faster.
    Last edited by David S; 17th March 2018 at 11:08 AM.
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    curveball here the seats are way better without headrests, more visibility and who ever sits with their head actually resting on the headrest unless you’re 7 feet tall?

    Downside whiplash in accident.

    To rest a head or not to rest there in lies the legal question.

    You can drive sround sans headrests then when rego inspection comes up stick them back on!
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  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    curveball here the seats are way better without headrests, more visibility and who ever sits with their head actually resting on the headrest unless you’re 7 feet tall?

    Downside whiplash in accident.

    To rest a head or not to rest there in lies the legal question.

    You can drive sround sans headrests then when rego inspection comes up stick them back on!
    But I was so excited to finally have head rests! You give me a very easy option, however...

    Sent from my LG-H815 using aussiefrogs mobile app

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by MelanieYlang View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can anyone recommend a treatment for the rusted chrome headrest rails? They don't need to be like new, but I'd like to see a considerable improvement!
    Hi Melanie,
    I've got a couple of headrest bars with no rust if you want them, no charge except for postage. I ordered new seat covers from Citrothello and they came with new headrests and headrest bars and mounts so these are excess to supply. The vinyl covers are cactus but an easy upholstery job and only requiring velcro attachment to assemble.

    If you don't need them and someone else does, sing out.

    SF.

    SF

    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016-img_20180405_075423.jpg
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  15. #165
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    I recently discovered a product called Evapo-rust that Supercheap sells - it is a non-toxic chelate(?) solution that does a surprisingly good job of converting and dissolving rust. I recently used it on my pipe loom (for want of a better description) and various other bits and pieces.

    I found that the headrests in their little chrome seat tubes pushed the headrest too far forward for my comfort. I ended up making a couple of fillets out of copper that attached to the lowest attachment point on the seat, and the headrest legs then bolted to the fillet. This brought the lower legs forward 2cm and pushed the actual headrest back about 4cm. It still looks fine and was a lot more comfortable for me as it no longer butted up against the back of my head.

    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016-headrest-fillet.jpg
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  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincenzo View Post
    I recently discovered a product called Evapo-rust that Supercheap sells - it is a non-toxic chelate(?) solution that does a surprisingly good job of converting and dissolving rust. I recently used it on my pipe loom (for want of a better description) and various other bits and pieces.

    I found that the headrests in their little chrome seat tubes pushed the headrest too far forward for my comfort. I ended up making a couple of fillets out of copper that attached to the lowest attachment point on the seat, and the headrest legs then bolted to the fillet. This brought the lower legs forward 2cm and pushed the actual headrest back about 4cm. It still looks fine and was a lot more comfortable for me as it no longer butted up against the back of my head.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks like a sensible modification. I know what you mean about being set too far forward and was surprised after I re-upholstered my D that this issue wasn't apparent. I suspect that once the new upholstery settles it might become an issue so will bear this adjustment in mind. Thanks.

    SF.
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  17. #167
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    This was meant to be a temporary solution until I could find (or make) a better item for the job. Ideally I'd like to be able to adjust it without too much fuss - but this worked well and other priorities took over.
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    DS23 Pallas BVM Vert Argente - in ground up restoration, soon to be BVH.
    DSpecial 4speed Beige Vanneau, previous ; XM 2.0, maroon, my first.
    And a variety of the usual crapboxes before seeing the light. Except my Mini Cooper with the 3.4 cam and twin webers - that wasn't a POS.

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  18. #168
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    I did a similar thing using steel flat bar to move the seatbelt stalks forward as the longest stalks now available are about 6 inches too short to come up where you want them between the seats. For the headrest fix, copper is too soft for a permanent fix. Think what the headrest is meant to do and the copper is likely to fail in a prang. The headrests Melanie is showing are the later type that aren't meant to be removable as per the earlier system. The factory moved the top mount back via that little plate to angle the assemble back a little.

    Evapo-Rust looks to be very much like the Bilt-Hamber product Deox-C, but apparently, if it's possible, even more expensive.
    Evapo-Rust - Supercheap Auto
    Note the bath turns orange, brown and then black as it is exhausted. The black sticky carbon residue on the parts means you are stripping good metal away and you have left it in the bath a little too long.

    Deox-C comes as a concentrate and will make a larger bath for the same cost. The gel version would be more suited to the headrest job, but you can't effectively dissolve the gel to make a bath. See the link I gave a few post up:
    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016
    Drop something zinc plated in it and see what happens. Fizzz.
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  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScotFrog View Post
    Hi Melanie,
    I've got a couple of headrest bars with no rust if you want them, no charge except for postage. I ordered new seat covers from Citrothello and they came with new headrests and headrest bars and mounts so these are excess to supply. The vinyl covers are cactus but an easy upholstery job and only requiring velcro attachment to assemble.

    If you don't need them and someone else does, sing out.

    SF.

    SF

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks very much for the offer, Scot, but please let them go to someone else.

    Cheers,
    Melanie

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