Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016 - Page 6
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Thread: Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016

  1. #126
    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Roger Wilkinson's Break is the only other DS I've driven ir inspected closely, and for some reason I think it may have had a slightly different lever position or style - is that so, Roger?

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  2. #127
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    My break has the same manual height control lever as Daphne's.

    First nose Dees all had the manual height control lever on the left, with right hand drive cars having the same arrangement as left hand drive cars.

    Bob has some cars that are so early they have no manual height control lever.

    Roger

  3. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    I can't attest to the lever on the RHD cars (ours all drive on the correct side ) but the height lever on all the LHD cars I've seen are installed directly above the box section. I really can't think of a reason why the RHD cars would be different, since it's a mechanical linkage direct to the height corrector, and I would guess the corrector mounted in the same spot irrespective of driver position. Is it possible your's got remounted down low for some reason, necessitating the extra stops in the lever gate?

    You mention P6B. Like a Rover P6? One of the very few cars that can stand next to a D and still be pretty amazing.......
    I'm not suggesting the lever in Melanie's new car has been moved - just that it's located in a different position to that on LHD cars. Given that (from Faulksy's picture) on an RHD car the control rod seems to go from left, right across the cabin to right, then back to left again (!) I guess you don't want it at knee height - so Citroen mounted it all at floor level. Also, being RHD, it isn't in the way of the drivers feet and other pedals/ buttons.

  4. #129
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by faulksy View Post
    On a LHD car the lever acts directly on the rods connected to the height correctors. On RHD cars there is a bar that runs the width of the cabin to connect the lever to the height corrector rods inside the sill. As far as i know all RHD cars are like this

    Attachment 103584
    I guess the reasoning is "Citroen!". I would never have guessed they relocated the correctors over to the right. Is there something on the passenger side that prevents location on the left?
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  5. #130
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    I guess you don't want it at knee height - so Citroen mounted it all at floor level. Also, being RHD, it isn't in the way of the drivers feet and other pedals/ buttons.
    Well, the lever is mounted about level with your ankle, just a few MM above and to the inside of the box section of the LHD cars, hard against what would be the kick panel. It isn't going to interfere with your feet anyway. I can see where it might on a RHD car, considering that footwell is considerably narrower. I'm just curious why the height correctors were mounted on the right in your case.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  6. #131
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    RHD height correctors are still on the left. The transverse bar goes across in front of the front seat bulkhead to allow the lever to be positioned inside the right longeron rather than the left one.

    Roger

  7. #132
    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016-1518651415810.jpg

    Here are some shots of the interior of the donor, which was the main reason for acquisition. (Having spent a bit more time with it, I'm actually more excited about the rebuilt motor and 5 speed box.) As you can see, it's complete but pretty shabby - and still decades better than Daphne's. As a bonus, I now have head rests! Some things I need advice on, please:

    1. The jersey velour seats have gotten moisture in at some stage and smell accordingly musty, though don't seem to have gotten mouldy. How would you treat this (I prefer to avoid harsh chemicals)? I have vaccumed, but only to remove external debris, and am airing it daily. My initial thoughts are to take them out and pressure wash them; spray them with a mixture of vinegar, dish liquid and water.

    2. The door cards are also damp-affected and are wonky, with some clips having left the company. Can they be re-moulded? Ditto the C pillar trim and rear head bumper panel.

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    I wouldn't pressure wash the seat covers, I suspect they might fall apart. Spraying with a vinegar, bicarb, water solution sounds like the way to go.

    If the masonite backing on the door cards has gone there isn't a lot you can to to fix it. You can carefully remove all the staples and take the fabric off. Use the masonite as a template and cut new backings from thin plywood or recover the ones already in Daphne.

    The C pillar trims look as though the fabric has come away from the foam underneath. Shouldn't be to hard to remove the fabric and re-stick with spray contact adhesive. The backing under the foam is basically papermache, easy to fix breaks with PVA and tissue/newspaper. Same goes for the piece over the rear window. It is a right paint to put back on though.
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  9. #134
    Fellow Frogger! MelanieYlang's Avatar
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    Thanks for that advice, Faulksy, that all sounds do-able. Actually, the C pillar trim is a jersey knit fabric that doesn't match the read head pad (which has practically fallen out) , so maybe someone already had a go at re-covering them.

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  10. #135
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    be as gentle as you can ... with everything. D model fabric interior generally disintegrates to the touch in my experience
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  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    be as gentle as you can ... with everything. D model fabric interior generally disintegrates to the touch in my experience
    Ye gads, thanks for the warning Shane!

  12. #137
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    Daphne: 1974 D Spécial purchased October 2016-1518857345983.jpg
    We got the instrument cluster out tonight - as you can see, the lower unit didn't even have corners! The new cluster doesn't appear to work properly, so I'm just going to swap the fascia over. While I have the fascia off though, can anyone advise if there's something I can do about the speedo and tacho returning to zero while driving? It happens more frequently with the speedo.

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    Can't advise on the taco/ speedo, but do notice that your new cluster has a temp. gauge as well as the fuel gauge. The temp gauge is worth having and is expensive to buy - if you can find one. I know you've got other things to do, but if you wanted to get a round to it, someone here can tell you how to wire that temperature gauge up.

    Paul
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  14. #139
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Hmmm. 21 engine, 5-speed, temperature gauge. Someone has seriously tricked-up their DSpecial. I wonder what else they have added. Height-adjustable seats? Tinted glass? Extra interior insulation? It sounds like it would be worth having a closer look.

    Roger
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  15. #140
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    We did discuss moving the temp gauge, but as we've installed an after market temp gauge that's more informative, I'm happy to consider parting this one out.

    The other difference is that the new speedo is in miles only - who can tell me when they went to split/metric?

    And I don't think jersey velour was a DSpecial option?

    This car was owned by Jerome Navaud, whose father - a French-born French car mechanic in Melbourne, owned it before him; they did the engine rebuild and gearbox transplant. I didn't get his first name when he helped us with getting it started, but I wonder if it might be Guy, from the research I have done online. Is there anyone who keeps records of old Citroens in Australia? The classic Rover club does.

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  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by MelanieYlang View Post
    We did discuss moving the temp gauge, but as we've installed an after market temp gauge that's more informative, I'm happy to consider parting this one out.

    The other difference is that the new speedo is in miles only - who can tell me when they went to split/metric?

    And I don't think jersey velour was a DSpecial option?

    This car was owned by Jerome Navaud, whose father - a French-born French car mechanic in Melbourne, owned it before him; they did the engine rebuild and gearbox transplant. I didn't get his first name when he helped us with getting it started, but I wonder if it might be Guy, from the research I have done online. Is there anyone who keeps records of old Citroens in Australia? The classic Rover club does.

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    hi melanie

    if you want to sell the temp gauge count mr in. Maybe pm me and let me know how much you want
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  17. #142
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterMol View Post
    hi melanie

    if you want to sell the temp gauge count mr in. Maybe pm me and let me know how much you want
    Wiring it in is dead-nuts easy. In fact, 814 gives the exact spec on how to do it for the LHD cars. Just add a bit more wire to reach a RHD cluster.

    Oh- and you will need the sender. That one is located at the water pump. If the wire still exists, you can use that.
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    The speedo is cable driven i.e not electric in any way. Have a close look at the cable to what condition its in, particularly the connector just above the exhaust manifold. The crimped on connectors seem to part company with the ends of the cables and could result in an intermittent speedo. I believe the speedos were either miles or Km, officially we went metric in 1974. Swapping the speedo over is a matter of loosening the two screws on the back.

    Intermittent tacho could be a broken wire. It is powered by a wire coming from the coil which appears at one of the middle pins of the yellow connector.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    Wiring it in is dead-nuts easy. In fact, 814 gives the exact spec on how to do it for the LHD cars. Just add a bit more wire to reach a RHD cluster.

    Oh- and you will need the sender. That one is located at the water pump. If the wire still exists, you can use that.
    thanks for that. If I can get it I can’t seeing it as much of a challenge. Glad you confirmed

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