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  1. #101
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    To get a performance gain from higher compression, you need high octane fuel. Another thread recently highlighted the difficulty of getting high enough octane fuel for these engines in the US!! What fuel(s) do your petrol stations sell?

    Cheers

    Alec

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  2. #102
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overfinch View Post
    Hello Wildebeest,

    Cleaning was done before reassembly. Haven't heard it rev yet. Can't wait. Are there significant gains (performance or otherwise) I can look forward to as a result of the grind?

    Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Other than an improvement in running ie no compression loss via the leaking gasket.
    General standard performance will be restored. Were the valve clearances re-adjusted? When retensioning the head later the clearances will need re-doing.

    Hope it goes well for you.

  3. #103
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    Hey there Armidillo,

    We have certain additive fuels in Kenya. Shell V power is one touted for performance but I haven't heard of any wow effect in the market. I use a new additive fuel from Total known as Excellium. If I can have only original compression restored, I'd be more than happy.

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  4. #104
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    As promised, exhaust unit photos

    Car ID-1491197111243.jpgCar ID-1491197126633.jpgCar ID-1491197137926.jpgCar ID-1491197145010.jpg

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  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overfinch View Post
    Hey there Armidillo,

    We have certain additive fuels in Kenya. Shell V power is one touted for performance but I haven't heard of any wow effect in the market. I use a new additive fuel from Total known as Excellium. If I can have only original compression restored, I'd be more than happy.

    Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_V-Power

    As this Wikipedia entry shows, octane ratings vary from country to country, even if the fuel has the same name in each country (such as Shell V Power)! However it looks as if it would be at least 95 octane in Kenya, which is likely to be fine (and also the minimum you should use). One thing about a small compression leak such as you had is that it is more noticeable at lower revs, as there is literally more time for the gases to squeeze out!

    So you may notice an improvement in low to mid-range pulling power, but the top end difference will most likely be marginal. As Wildebeest says, it's more about getting back to 'normal', as the amount taken off the head is unlikely to be enough to significantly increase compression.

    It's hard to find information about your fuels just using Google - your media outlets just reprint the company's press release, without doing any of their own research. However I did find a chat site where Excellium was compared with with V-Power: https://www.kenyatalk.com/index.php?...cellium.37032/

    It seems Excellium is cheaper for a reason - it is 93 Octane, same as your 'regular' fuel. I would use V-Power if you can get it.

    Cheers

    Alec

  6. #106
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    Thanks for the feedback. Yes, our press are copy paste specialists. Proper and rigorous research is precious stuff in my dear republic. If what I had was a small compression leak, I would shudder to think what a big leak would be like. The car's acceleration and throttle response was lethargic. I had several instances of car jerks on attempts at acceleration. There was the obvious coolant/ water loss. I had a recurrent misfire with eye stinging exhaust fumes (fouled plugs). Consumption had significantly deteriorated. Even with the new exhaust pipe, the exhaust was throaty on idle. Are all these compression leak/ loss symptoms?

  7. #107
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    Big pressure loss? Try a burnt valve or two, or a piece blown out of the head gasket . Pity you don't have compression test figures from before the head was removed.

    Actually, looking at your photos, I see that the cylinders 1 & 2 are very close to each other, as are 3 & 4. It's hard to tell from the photos, but if that very thin bit of head gasket between one (or both) pairs had disappeared then I think it would count as a major compression loss!

    Best double-check with your mechanic about the points Wildebeest raised - valve (tappet) clearances need to be set any time the head is torqued down or re-torqued, and torque (head bolt tightness) needs to be checked after a few hours of running.

    I'll let the experts explain how soon to retorque head. Also, perhaps someone can explain whether your head bolts can safely be reused or not?

    Yes, most of your recorded symptoms can be explained by the failing head gasket, but I'm not sure that the exhaust note is related!

    Cheers

    Alec

  8. #108
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Head bolts are re-usable on the 504 engines. Re-torquing should be done with the engine cold. Six to eight hours.
    If the head bolts are showing sign of rust they may need replacing. Many methods of torquing the head have been debated here.
    You takes your pick.
    A couple of oil changes may be required to remove traces of coolant.

    I would put the exhaust sound down to some of the silencers and pipe sizes do not appear standard.
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  9. #109
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    Hi guys. The cylinder head was replaced. I am not losing coolant anymore (minor victory). Cold start has also significantly improved. I managed to get a shroud (or pieces of it) from wreckers.Car ID-1493574487599.jpg

    True to form its a fit for my radiator but I can't locate where I'm supposed to screw it onto the radiator. Is there another bracket that goes onto the radiator prior to this shroud? My radiator bare. There's nothing apart from the radiator in there.

    Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overfinch View Post
    Hi guys. The cylinder head was replaced. I am not losing coolant anymore (minor victory). Cold start has also significantly improved. I managed to get a shroud (or pieces of it) from wreckers.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1493574487599.jpg 
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    True to form its a fit for my radiator but I can't locate where I'm supposed to screw it onto the radiator. Is there another bracket that goes onto the radiator prior to this shroud? My radiator bare. There's nothing apart from the radiator in there.

    Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app

    Overfinch,
    Good to hear all is well.
    The radiator shroud, with sections cut away are usually attached to the radiator side straps. There should be 4 threaded [6mm] holes, two on each side for mounting the shroud. Caution! use only short 6mm screws, longer screws may damage the radiator fins/tubes.

    The missing shroud section will make very little difference to the cooling. I always cut away this section on all my previous 504's.
    It makes for easier removal of the radiator.

    Keep in touch.
    Wildebeest

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    Overfinch,
    Good to hear all is well.
    The radiator shroud, with sections cut away are usually attached to the radiator side straps. There should be 4 threaded [6mm] holes, two on each side for mounting the shroud. Caution! use only short 6mm screws, longer screws may damage the radiator fins/tubes.

    The missing shroud section will make very little difference to the cooling. I always cut away this section on all my previous 504's.
    It makes for easier removal of the radiator.

    Keep in touch.
    Wildebeest
    Hi there Wildebeest,

    I don't believe my radiator has side straps. I'll post pictures shortly

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  12. #112
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    Hi guys. Here are the pictures I promised of my nude radiator Car ID-1493924648949.jpgCar ID-1493924656524.jpgCar ID-1493924661543.jpgCar ID-1493924668283.jpg

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  13. #113
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Car ID-img_1461.jpg Car ID-img_1462.jpg

    It varied - I have some 504 radiators with the side mounting lugs and some without. This pic is one with. Sorry for the poor quality.

  14. #114
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    Peter and Overfinch,
    I'm wondering if the radiators without shroud mounting bolts are from an early 504 ?

    I have run my present 504 without a shroud, it didn't seem to make much difference?

  15. #115
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    Without the lugs/shrouds could well have been early 504, don't know. Someone is sure to know. It didn't seem to make much difference in any of my 504s either. The main thing that did make a difference was taking out the radiator each year and thoroughly flushing the radiator and the rest of the cooling system out.
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  16. #116
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    This model sure is old. It's a 4 speed gear box unit. Must have been a very early model right? If I get you correctly, shroud or none doesn't make a big difference?

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  17. #117
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    I've only ever seen the shroud on the later 504s. Anyone else?

    Although I didn't notice much difference they wouldn't have gone to the trouble of installing them for nothing. It must help!

  18. #118
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    Hello folks. The old gal has been stationary for about a fortnight. I don't want her out of parking as I want to fit in a new carburetor next week and also remit the brake booster. On trying to warm her up today, I realised that I had a proper leak underneath the driver's wheel well. I couldn't see any holes in the firewall visible behind the dashboard. Is this a common pug issue?

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    A proper lake.

  19. #119
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    It's not that common a problem. The first thing I would check is for a leaky windscreen and if all is well there I would next check for rust up around that area.

  20. #120
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    Would the windscreen need to come off?

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  21. #121
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    If you remove the dash top you should be able to see enough to identify leaks either because there are tell tale signs such as rust or by having someone wet all over the windscreen with a hose while you look inside for water ingress.

    Compared to modern glued in windscreens, 504 windscreens tend to have sealing problems.

    If you find that it's leaking this way then you may well have to remove the windscreen to check for rust as well as taking steps to seal it in properly. In the past, I've used one of the Sikaflex polyurethane products to completely seal it, although I can't remember which one.

  22. #122
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    Overfinch,
    A possibility that is coolant leaking from the heater area. Hose. Heater tap or the matrix.
    Oh... The plenum chamber below the windscreen may have rusted through allowing rain water ingress. See Peter's post *121 above.
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  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    Overfinch,
    A possibility that is coolant leaking from the heater area. Hose. Heater tap or the matrix.
    Oh... The plenum chamber below the windscreen may have rusted through allowing rain water ingress. See Peter's post *121 above.
    Hello Wildebeest, been a while. I haven't lost any coolant since the head resurfacing. So I doubt that that's the problem. When it rains especially, my feet get some light showers. And when its stationary in the rain, the puddle on the driver's side forms. I think the plenum, windscreen and dashboard will have to come off for this job. A little bird rumoured that my slave driver (employer) might throw some extra coin my way. If that happens, I will definitely accelerate this restoration project and get thus old gal in some immaculate shape. I may be tempted to accommodate a willing frogger over in Africa for this project so that we can get this pug done properly (would be quite an experience). Volunteers?

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  24. #124
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    Take the plenum cover off, and check that the drain and the drain pipe aren't blocked. If they're blocked and it rains, the water will overflow either into the heater unit or the outboard foot vents.

    If you don't feel like pulling the cover off, pull off the drain hose in the centre of the engine bay against the firewall and check for crud.
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    Scotty

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  25. #125
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    Hello there Demannu. I found that there was a leak at the base of the windshield on either side. The mechanic actually pulled off the dashboard for that check.

    Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app

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