The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand
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Thread: The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand

    I thought Id share my build story and a couple of photos in an effort to keep me motivated.

    Like all old cars my Virage eventually developed an oil leak from the front main seal, and like all oil leaks this gradually got worse and worse to the point that oil was now being flung around the engine bay by the accessories.

    Being lazy in nature I figured I would kill two birds with one stone and take the opportunity to swap the leaky R12 engine for the R17 engine and box I had sitting in another 12 that had succumbed to rust.

    Two out, one in, and everything is there to bolt straight inhow easy is this!! But then one thing leads to another and that leads to 18 months in the shed, and when I say shed I mean an apartment car space.

    So this is how the events unfolded:
    - The radiator was shot so had to be re-cored
    - I needed a new exhaust system to match the new configuration
    - The carbs needed fully rebuilding and Id always wanted to change to injection and a timely bonus freed up the cash to purchase the throttle bodies
    - Electronic ignition led to computer controlled ignition which lead to a fully programmable ECU required by the previous point
    - This then required multiple coil packs and both crank and cam triggers to be fitted somehow
    - It also required higher pressure pumps, lines, extra filters, etc
    - While I was at it I decided to fit an old vintage air under dash air con system because I had too much spare time and I was making far too much progress with this project

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    That leads us to where Im up to:
    - The engine is in
    - The new stainless exhaust is built (this took a fair bit of time because I didnt want to be welding in an apartment car space when lots of people around, so lots of late nights)
    The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand-20150808_180551_resized.jpg
    - The new radiator is in and somehow I managed to fit it in with an air con condenser, an oil cooler, and a 12 thermo fan
    - The quad throttle bodies are fitted and the vacuum lines are all running to a combination vacuum block that will either power the brake booster or the MAP sensor (depending if I program the ignition and injection tables for throttle position or MAP)
    The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand-20151005_140502_resized.jpg
    - 3/8 solid fuel lines run from the tank through a 60m filter and pump to surge tank then through a 10m filter and pump to the rail, regulator and back again

    The R12 oil leak repair that got out of hand-20160606_234257_resized.jpg

    The next steps:
    - set the timing and fix the crank and cam triggers in their correct alignments
    - finish mounting the air con system, oil catch canister, and the vacuum pump and reservoir if I decide to use the vacuum collector on the manifolds for a MAP sensor
    - start the dreaded task of re-wiring the whole damn thing. Its not hard, but Im more of a fabricator/mechanic, so the electricals feel like so many hours with nothing to show for it. At least if I make a mounting bracket I can stand back and appreciate it 

    An interesting note is that the air con system is actually a 12V electric compressor system so it is mounted remotely from the engine and just required a bigger battery, some heavy cables and a VERY uprated alternator (which needed doing anyway because of all the other electrical accessories now fitted).
    FIVEDOOR and renault12 like this.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default

    Very impressive installation especially considering the limited space you have to work in. I admire your commitment.

    I recognise that space. Your old R12 motor found a good home in the back of my Alconi project after the oil leak was repaired.

    That Aircon has me thinking.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    More info if possible on the remote compressor please.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    For anyone who is considering dropping a considerable amount of cash on an air con system, here are some of the details.

    Blower/Evaporator: Vintage Air Gen III Mini
    Receiver/Drier: Vintage Air w/ Trinary Switch (protects the system from over and under pressures and required for the mismatch of parts)
    Condenser: Ebay special from the states, it was the only one I could find that fitted in the very limited space I had and also had the inlet/outlet in the correct locations and could actually be mounted in the car
    Hard Lines: Vintage Air U-Bend-Em lines from Summit Racing in the states
    Flex Lines: Aeroflow A/C hose
    Other Hardware: Aeroflow A/C hose ends, Vintage Air firewall plates
    Compressor: Rencool MD18 12V DC MD-18 Series - Rencool Pty Ltd

    Most of the parts I’ve used are quite common in the hot rod community in the US, hence purchasing most of the bits from Summit Racing, but they have hundreds of belt drive compressors available to them.
    Given my space limitations I could only run a belt driven compressor on the exhaust side when using the R17TL crankshaft, timing cover and pulley, but this would have required a custom set of extractors which I don’t have the facilities to bend and face, plus I’ve now modified the crank pulley to mount the crankshaft trigger wheel for the ECU.

    I’ve moved the battery into the boot in a CAMS battery box to make room for the compressor to mount where the battery would normally sit and it’s very snug but it just fits. I could have always mounted it in the boot where it is cooler but that would have meant running A/C lines down the full length of the car and I think I would have struggled to get them run through the sills and the underside of the car is too prone to damage, plus the exhaust heat might have rendered the system kind of useless anyway.

    There is another 12V DC compressor made by a company in the US but it is a much cruder looking unit, looking more like a small fridge compressor with an inverter attached. The Rencool unit appears to be based on the 2nd generation Denso units used in hybrids like the Prius, Lexus, Camry, etc, and uses the refrigerant to cool the motor and bearings. I did look into these Denso units but they are actually AC units and would have required an inverter and a way to cool the inverter. That said I still have to find a way to increase cool/fresh air flow over the compressor unit to keep it cooler than the engine bay normally is… I feel a reason for a 12G bonnet scoop coming on.

  5. #5
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    This is impressive, no joke. If you're lazy, I'm comatose!


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I guess there is a fine line between laziness and efficiency combined with inexperienced optimism.
    The project has become more about me teaching myself a bunch of new skills than it originally started out as.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3006882 View Post
    - The quad throttle bodies are fitted and the vacuum lines are all running to a combination vacuum block that will either power the brake booster or the MAP sensor (depending if I program the ignition and injection tables for throttle position or MAP)
    If your motor has an uprated camshaft it will be better to use throttle position rather than MAP for your ECU. Bigger camshafts have larger overlap and do not produce good or even vacuum at low revs. Neat solution to getting a half decent vacuum for your booster though. Way back in the days of the GTHO, a vacuum tank was fitted to accumulate the vacuum, as the cam fitted (300 degree?) had a lot of overlap.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I have a vacuum accumulator tank and a hella electronic vacuum pump to boost it if I go that option.
    The cam is lightly worked but nothing too wild. My thoughts were to run a TPS set up for faster response compared the the MAP set up, I think it's the better set up in a non-turbo application. Plus I can program in a fractional delay in injector shut off when going from heavy to 0% throttle to give it that nice satisfying popping sound when changing gears

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    You had me at quad throttle bodies.

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