Installing new dashboard assistance required
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Thread: Installing new dashboard assistance required

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! lamoor's Avatar
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    Default Installing new dashboard assistance required

    its now time for me to install the renovated dashboard that has been sitting around for more that 5 years may be.
    car DS23 pallas
    year 1972
    manual 5 sp
    gauges and dials already cleaned and renovated.
    installing NOS blinker switch-light- switch-wiper switch- hazard button and replacing all other buttons with NOS or unmarked push buttons.
    NOS mirror
    repaired original clock belonging to this car.
    require rubber gear gate shield or blind
    also will be installing period radio in aperture for visual. have to work out solution to drive a sound system stealth off my iphone- no aerial in roof is a shark fin appropriate or is there a stealth aerial that fits to the windscreen or rear glass.

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    question
    is this a complex operation or can ti be managed between 2 brothers. what are the snags and pitfalls to look out for and what should be done while the dash etc is removed.
    heater control and register is in perfect condition no scratches etc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Installing new dashboard assistance required-cit010.jpg  

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi,
    When the dash is out make sure the wiper linkage is working properly and clean any dust off the air vents at either end while you have access!
    Fit the dash without the steering binnacle attached, there are 3 welded bolts for it to slot into across the top: behind the glovebox, behind the dash top speaker and behind the 3dials. Connect any ducting, there are screws along the bottom and one on either side into the black foam.
    It's easy to do, best to have an assistant to prevent scratching. Have all the wiring tagged and pull it out through the appropriate holes.
    I'm writing this from memory, so may have forgotten some detail, but it's fairly self explanatory when you see it.

    Good luck,
    Ed
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  3. #3
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamoor View Post
    its now time for me to install the renovated dashboard that has been sitting around for more that 5 years may be.
    car DS23 pallas
    year 1972
    manual 5 sp
    gauges and dials already cleaned and renovated.
    installing NOS blinker switch-light- switch-wiper switch- hazard button and replacing all other buttons with NOS or unmarked push buttons.
    NOS mirror
    repaired original clock belonging to this car.
    require rubber gear gate shield or blind
    also will be installing period radio in aperture for visual. have to work out solution to drive a sound system stealth off my iphone- no aerial in roof is a shark fin appropriate or is there a stealth aerial that fits to the windscreen or rear glass.

    question
    is this a complex operation or can ti be managed between 2 brothers. what are the snags and pitfalls to look out for and what should be done while the dash etc is removed.
    heater control and register is in perfect condition no scratches etc.
    Lamoor,
    You'll find removal of a late D dash a doddle after the work you have performed on your GS. . .

    Hotrodelectric has previously posted a nice run down on the process

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric
    I'll be copying and pasting this to another AF'r, because he also asked for the dash destruction instructions. If enough other people ask, I'll make it a post in the technical section.

    Curl up with your favorite beverage, this will take a while.

    Assuming you don't have air conditioning (most D's, even here in the US don't):

    Disconnect the battery!!

    The next step is remove the instrument cluster. Now, I don't know if it's the same for the RHD cars, but for the LHD cars, you'll first disconnect the speedometer cable at it's fitting near the ignition coil. That makes the cluster FAR easier to remove. Fit the cable through the firewall- it does not need to be passed all the way through- enough to give slack for the cluster. Remove the 4 screws fitting the cluster to the dash carefully- those corners are notoriously easy to break. Work the cluster out (you will likely have to put the gear lever in 4th or reverse), then unscrew the speedo cable from the speedo head (feed more cable as you have to), and then disconnect the 3 electrical connectors. Lay the cluster someplace where it is protected- they're brittle and easily damaged.

    Next step is removal of the steering wheel pod. BVM/BVH/BVA, there is a chrome strip that bisects the pod and stops at either side of the steering column. At those points, on the underside of the strip are two screws- remove them. Then disengage the upper pod from the dash. Set that part to the side. You are now left with the lower pod and it's associated switches and wiring to remove. Ostensibly, everything is color coded. Realistically, all of the colors have faded to some shade of gray. Some masking tape and a marker of some sort will be your friend here. Also, if you are able, take some photos noting the location and routing of the wires. To actually remove the lower pod, there will be 2 or 3 philips head screws attaching it to the lower dashboard, and 2 4mm (8mm head) inside the pod, immediately to either side of the column. They're a little hard to spot at first, but unless they were removed and never replaced, they're there. Pull the pod loose, then disconnect the wiring, one plug at a time, marking as you go. The pod is now out, and that can be set aside.

    Remove the screws that hold the heater control to the firewall. The control can be allowed to just dangle. You can now remove the remaining screws from the lower dash, which should total only 3 or 4. The entire lower dash should now be loose.

    In the lower dash are your secondary controls for the car- rear defrost, blower fan, roof lights, and so on. These will all need to be removed. Starting with the clock, carefully prise it from the dash, taking care not to damage the paint or the clock bezel. There are three loose connections: power, ground, and lamp. Mark them if you need to. Next to remove is the plastic panel containing switches. Be very careful here- the tabs are very small, fragile, and can be difficult to remove easily. Mark the connections for what switch they came from.
    There should be just one or two switches left, mounted directly into the sheet metal. Pop those switches out, and mark those wires. If there are any additional switches someone else has installed, pull, disconnect and mark those, too. If you feel the need, take photos- it's a hell of a lot easier to have a reference than a faulty memory.

    The only controls left in the lower dash should be your choke and the ignition switch. Go underhood, and disconnect your choke cable. You will eventually pull the cable out with the dash. The ignition switch requires only removal of the bezel. For that, a pair of slip jaw pliers will do the trick. Grip the bezel gently, and twist counterclock-wise. It should easily release, and can be unscrewed by hand once it's loose. Careful, don't scratch the paint! Use masking tape as a protectant, however much you need.

    If there is an aftermarket stereo, either under the steering pod or in the sheetmetal of the lowere dash on the passenger side, it will need to be removed. Most modern DIN-mount stereos have a pair of 'keys' to unlatch it from it's mounting cage.

    After taking 5 for a smoke break:

    We can now start on the upper portion of the dash. Open the glovebox. You will find either a plastic plug (ID/DSpecial/DSuper) or a lamp (DS20/21/Pallas). Pull that plug/lamp. If you have the lamp, make sure the wires stay available for hooking back up- they're easy to lose. Under that plug/lamp is a nut, a star washer, and a large flat washer. Remove that hardware. At the other side of the dash in approximately the opposite location is another nut, star washer and large flat washer. This is two sets of three you will be removing. The third set is at the dash center, just under the center speaker. Coming up is probably the fiddliest part of the dash- the radio pocket. Two philips head screws. You will need some patience for this, and a #2 bit in a 1/4 drive 1/4" socket, or a thumb drive with a bit, or possibly an "L" screwdriver. Anyway you do it, remove those two screws, and pull the radio pocket out. You now have access to that third set of hardware. Remove those pieces.

    -->IF!! you have one of the dashboards with the dash mounted mirror, remove the mount hardware from that, and then VERY carefully remove the mirror- any sudden movement that smacks the mirror into the glass can easily mean a new windshield. <--

    Two more screws, then the dash should come out. On either side of the dash, there is a 'wing', which wraps around and meets the A post. There is a philips head screw in that wing, remove it.

    With that, the dash should come out. You will likely need to work it a bit, and another pair of hands is very helpful. Do note that there are two cardboard hoses- a short one going to the air distribution box from the defroster duct, and a long one from the air box to a floor vent on the passenger side. Now- occasionally the defroster vent duct, which is part of the dash, will get stuck to the firewall sound deadener. If this happens, you can either a) gently pry the duct from the firewall, or b) locate the plug on the firewall just above the valve cover. Remove this plug, and push on the duct as someone else works the dash out.

    Removing the vent boxes from this point is easy. Directly under the face of the vent are two screws (sometimes philips, sometimes small bolt heads) recessed into the sheetmetal.
    Remove the hardware, go underhood and remove the gray vinyl boot connecting it to the fenderwell duct. Then just work the box up-down-side-side. What has captured them is the rubber gasket sealing it to the firewall. A little light penetrating oil may help here.

    Figure on a day to get it out, and a day or two to get it all back in. It all depends on how fast you work, and how easily it all works out.
    Only comment I think I have is that being RHD the speedo cable is on the RHS (exhaust side), split it at the joiner found around the sphere.

    For your gear lever rubber, hold off for a short time, Darrin (Citroen Classics UK) is having a new batch made up and has improved the rubber used. Some of the initial production rubbers have broken down prematurely.

    Shark fin antenna would be a real shame on a car of this standard, (big fail points)

    Have you considered the Retrosound Model2 -


    If you are staying stealth think about any wiring you may need to run up to the dash whilst the dash is out, maybe USB? There are a couple of nice options for placing a USB port into an OEM dash switch, have a look through this thread. . .
    D Model Radio Solution.

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! lamoor's Avatar
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    Default installing new dashboard

    thanks chris
    great information, this site is the best. thanks for yo help. will document the process for other as well. hopefully will also get the GS completed.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    gee I haven't even used my gear gate rubber yet! Wonder if he does returns!

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