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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    Default Renault 10S

    Hi All,

    Just thought i'd start a thread where I can post progress pics of my 10S restoration.

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    It doesn't need too much, new paint job - tidy up the interior - get 10S wheels restored - warm 1289 with side draught Weber etc.

    Here are some 'before" shots!!

    Cheers

    Anthony

    Renault 10S-453.jpgRenault 10S-446.jpgRenault 10S-456.jpgRenault 10S-455.jpgRenault 10S-443.jpgRenault 10S-448.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Renault 10S-450.jpg   Renault 10S-451.jpg  
    Last edited by R10S FAN; 16th December 2015 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Pics
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    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    I wondered who had that plate! REN010 Looking forward to seeing the progress Anthony
    cheers,

    John

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Well done the with the number plate! I'd say the only thing I'd prioritise is the rust, then paint, then very much later mechanicals, in that order.

    You've R16 wheel centres?

    It'll look good close up and after the work you won't hear the rust on quiet nights in the Hills.
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    JohnW

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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    Well I've been spending a fair bit of time contemplating this project over the past few weeks. The further i pull things apart and investigate the more rust and poor repairs i find.
    It has had a poorly prepared respray at some point, the entire body has paint flaking off and rust underneath as if the paint has been applied over damp panels. It also has thick filler at the base of the drivers side A pillar and the front has suffered a hard impact at some point and has been badly repaired.
    I am considering stripping the 10S and transferring all the parts into my other Alpine White '68 R10 which has a mint body and quite good paint. What are people's thoughts?
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    What do you want.
    A 10S nicely repaired/restored will be a rare car, if you think that is achievable. A replica will always be a replica.
    I'd say pull the orange one off the road and do it properly while keeping the other one as a weekend car while you do but I haven't seen the shell.

    Realistically, what parts from the 10S will you swap over that would make it special that you couldn't get elsewhere?
    KB


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    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Well I've been spending a fair bit of time contemplating this project over the past few weeks. The further i pull things apart and investigate the more rust and poor repairs i find.
    It has had a poorly prepared respray at some point, the entire body has paint flaking off and rust underneath as if the paint has been applied over damp panels. It also has thick filler at the base of the drivers side A pillar and the front has suffered a hard impact at some point and has been badly repaired.
    I am considering stripping the 10S and transferring all the parts into my other Alpine White '68 R10 which has a mint body and quite good paint. What are people's thoughts?
    Many moons ago I had similar issues with painting a 1600 Datsun, The water filter was not up to the job in Brisbane summer humidity allowing too much moisture with the paint. Running the air line through a bucket of water before it got to the filter fixed the problem by cooling the mixture.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIVEDOOR View Post
    Many moons ago I had similar issues with painting a 1600 Datsun, The water filter was not up to the job in Brisbane summer humidity allowing too much moisture with the paint. Running the air line through a bucket of water before it got to the filter fixed the problem by cooling the mixture.
    Or do the painting in the early morning when the humidity is low, air is cool and low atmospheric dust level.

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    What do you want.
    A 10S nicely repaired/restored will be a rare car, if you think that is achievable. A replica will always be a replica.
    I'd say pull the orange one off the road and do it properly while keeping the other one as a weekend car while you do but I haven't seen the shell.

    Realistically, what parts from the 10S will you swap over that would make it special that you couldn't get elsewhere?
    Personally, I'd favour the white car as a basis. Pervasive rust is a hassle with any thin metalled car (as Christian knows) & you are not anticipating keeping it standard anyway.

    The transaxle from the R10S (& the last of the R10 normales) is the best (strongest) of the 330 boxes & is worth swapping over. The 14" wheels in the pictures are not R10S ones but are heaps better (what width are they?). I'd retain them & revel in the better wet grip available from some 14" tyres. (What're on it now by the way & what's the date stamp on them?)

    cheers! Peter

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    In my experience with R10s the rust is going to be worse then it looks. I ended up sending my 1971 10S body to scrap as it was just too far gone.
    Last edited by c.lees; 4th January 2016 at 11:35 AM.

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    Personally, I'd favour the white car as a basis. Pervasive rust is a hassle with any thin metalled car (as Christian knows) & you are not anticipating keeping it standard anyway.

    The transaxle from the R10S (& the last of the R10 normales) is the best (strongest) of the 330 boxes & is worth swapping over. The 14" wheels in the pictures are not R10S ones but are heaps better (what width are they?). I'd retain them & revel in the better wet grip available from some 14" tyres. (What're on it now by the way & what's the date stamp on them?)

    cheers! Peter
    I'm inclined to agree with Peter - you know that with those R10 bodies (a bit like R12s) some really were badly painted originally and few were brilliant, especially if left in the weather much of the time. So, it's nice in a way to have a genuine 10S, of which only 200 or so were made, but I'd go for less rust rather than wondering where it is going to break out next! And, you know that now there seem to be more R8 Gordinis around than genuine R8 models, at least in the West, so the good R10 is not going to be exactly common in the future. The 10S modifications weren't that much really, more a party frock than a fundamental makeover.

    Pity though, about the state of the 10S body. You can always strip it fully and keep bonnet, doors etc as spares for the white one - I know all too well that spare body panels really can be useful. I'd de-rust the spares, run fishoil fully around the insides of the doors and all that stuff, and get them into a nice dry place.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    If its to far gone for a full restore just leave it as is.
    We do own Renaults, and rust and rust repair will always exceed the cars value.
    As long as you have no structural rust, just patch up the obvious ones as previous owners have, keep it on the road and enjoy it for what it is.
    A bush bash, dented, rusty R10 daily driver, that you spent your money only on engine and mechanicals that goes really well.
    Now spend the rest of your money on the white one, make it mint and keep it perfect, only drive it to car shows and worry about it getting scratched.
    Two is always better than one and you'll now have a white mint one and brown 10s fast one that you actually enjoy driving more than the other.
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    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    To be honest JW thats the way i'm leaning. As much as i'd love to do a full nut and bolt rotisserie resto on the 10S I just don't have the time or money to do so. At the end of the day I just want a hot little 10 I can drive on a daily basis (like I did when I had my R8A!) and I think that swapping all of the 10S parts over to the excellent 10 shell I have is probably a wise thing before it completely rusts away to nothing. Hmmmm decisions decisions!!
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  13. #13
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Well, now you have the two choices from the two Johns!! I doubt many will advocate welding up and rustproofing a very complex and holey biscuit tin.

    If you want a hot one for fanging, I'd be looking for another shell anyway. Keep the white one nice and find a tired R10 without rust, which should be cheap, and develop that shell as time and money allow. Alternatively, power up the white one and enjoy using it! Ideally, two is the go.
    JohnW

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  14. #14
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    I would also go with transferring the parts over to the white car. There is another Sunburst R10 for sale on Ebay in Corowa NSW for $800, that looks to be in fairly good straight condition.
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Alan, for all we know that one may be as bad as the one he's contemplating wrecking.
    As Christian found (and I with R8's), they are probably all as bad as each other if you go looking deep enough.

    We could probably find rust in Anthony's white one without too much trouble if we went looking.

    All the cars we are talking about are basically late R10's, so they are as young as they get!

    I doubt I'll do another resto after I finish the current one, but I know I will never strip and sandblast or dip another R8 or 10 again!!

    Maybe John's (63-1092) idea of a cosmetic tidy-up has some merit.

    Someone once told me if you make them shiny and straight on the outside, no one pays too much attention to what's underneath. I've typically chosen the hard way, and done bare shell/bare metal resto's.
    KB


  16. #16
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Oddly enough, some of those around aren't too bad at all body-wise. There's one for sale in Perth that came last year or the year before from Murwillumbah of all places (relative to Perth) and it is basically quite good in the body. But you do need to look - as soon as you see what the Mount Barker car looks like, rusting inside to out in quite a few places, just walk away.... I'd not dare to buy sight unseen.

    I reckon you're right to choose the hard way, as the nasties emerge all too soon.... You can do half what's needed, but the risk is that those hours and dollars are completely wasted.

    Lot's of things here now in response to Anthony!
    JohnW

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    One thing to remember if you do go the cosmetic fix up of the 10s and spend the money on the engine and mechanicals,
    you can always unbolt the complete rear end and transplant it into the white one or a different 10 shell in the future (if you can find a sound shell).
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Oddly enough, some of those around aren't too bad at all body-wise. There's one for sale in Perth that came last year or the year before from Murwillumbah of all places (relative to Perth) and it is basically quite good in the body.
    Is that the light blue one, or the white one with the black sunroof?

    The light blue one did look a nice car, but a lot of the rust can be hidden under the guards and the black tar paint at the base of the respective pillars.
    KB


  19. #19
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Is that the light blue one, or the white one with the black sunroof? The light blue one did look a nice car, but a lot of the rust can be hidden under the guards and the black tar paint at the base of the respective pillars.
    Dark green actually. There must be more around than I realise!
    JohnW

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  20. #20
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    If you are going to scrap the 10S body I'd cut various parts off it to use as spares for when your other one rusts. Definitely the A pillars if they are good.
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    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    This is the possible reshell candidate. I started to make it into a 10S replica long before i bought my real 10S! It is a 54000 mile car and has the sweetest standard engine in any 10 ive ever had.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Renault 10S-1452250432469.jpg   Renault 10S-1452250447742.jpg  
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    Well some slow progress has been made!

    I have decided to use the white car and reshell the 10S. I will be stripping both cars shortly, with the white one going in for a fresh paint job in early May - complete with the satin black stripe. I'll transfer the engine / gearbox from the 10S into the white car until i've finished assembling my warm 1289. Should be a good thing once she's all back together!
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  23. #23
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    So what exactly is being transferred from the 10S long term?
    Sounds like you're just doing the white car up rather than reshelling the 10S?
    KB


  24. #24
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    I'll be transferring the dash, gearstick, floor choke, Koni's, Badges, 10S wheels and engine / gearbox assy KB. I'll make one good car out of the best bits from both cars. The 10S looks nowhere as good as it does in my profile picture!
    Last edited by R10S FAN; 23rd February 2016 at 04:18 PM.
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    Curiosity got the better of me tonight so i did some exploratory surgery on the bog at the drivers side bottom of the A pillar. Its between 5 to 7mm thick and i couldnt find any rust. Which gets me thinking maybe its been rolled? Heres some pics of the paint blistering.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Renault 10S-1456221099678.jpg   Renault 10S-1456221127768.jpg   Renault 10S-1456221167178.jpg   Renault 10S-1456221175958.jpg  
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