R12 reverse lockout plate query.
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  1. #1
    Tadpole ACT Frogger's Avatar
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    Default R12 reverse lockout plate query.

    Getting into reverse has become a problem recently. Pushing the stick in and across is no problem but the going back part is grinding the gears badly.
    I think the lockout plate is there to stop the forward gear changes going into the reverse zone? Or is to hold the reverse gear change in a particular place?
    I took a video underneath of the change into reverse being made, but it seems I can't upload a video- not off my phone anyway.

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  2. #2
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    Generally, this happens because the clutch is not fully releasing. It may have synchro on first gear, so you don't notice it then as the synchro matches the gear speeds and overcomes the slight drag of the clutch.

    If it is a hydraulic clutch it may need bleeding or adjustment. A manual clutch may need adjustment. Or the clutch disc is damaged and needs replacing.

    Try holding clutch firmly to the floor and wait a couple of seconds for the gears to stop rotating.

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  3. #3
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    Default

    The clutch on a12 is cable and is easy to adjust.
    Failing that, on an R12, I'd be picking the rubber selector bushes have started to tear apart.
    It means the gear shifter won't be moving the linkage enough to engage Reverse. The linkage itself will feel really sloppy too (well sloppier than normal) but it may have been happening slowly so it has gone un-noticed.
    You may be able to tighten 2 hose clamps around the rubber bushed connection to test it and get things going again until you can get some proper bushes.

  4. #4
    COL
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    It could also be that the idle speed is slightly to high.
    Regards Col

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  5. #5
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    Is it grinding when you let the clutch out when you think it is, or should be, in reverse, or is it grinding when you attempt to get it into reverse? If the former then suspect linkages.

    Try this test:

    Put your foot on the clutch and start the car in reverse. Leaving your foot on the clutch slip the car into neutral, leave it in neutral for a couple of seconds then slip it back into reverse. If it grinds the gears, rather than giving a bit of a "snick" as it goes back in, suspect clutch adjustment. That is, the clutch is not properly dis-engaging and power is being transmitted to the gearbox.

    Take care when adjusting the clutch cable, you need to ensure you still have free play, as per the book, to ensure that the thrust race is not continually in contact with the pressure plate as the thrust bearing will quickly deteriorate.

    At this age, the rubber bush through which the cable passes at the clutch end becomes very squishy and a lot of clutch pedal movement goes into compressing this rubber rather than moving the clutch fork. This is the best possible outcome as it is and easy fix is to replace it with an appropriately "machined" nolethane bush and re-adjust cable. It will feel a lot better to drive too...

    And finally, slop in the nylon bush where the pedal pivots, combined with squishy-ness in the cable mount may mean that even if the cable is correctly adjusted the general wear means that sufficient effort is not being transferred to the clutch fork.

    Less likely, is that the clutch fork is bent.
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  6. #6
    Tadpole ACT Frogger's Avatar
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    thanks for all the suggestions. seems I should've just gone with the easy cable adjustment in the first place before getting too concerned. Everything is good now, slips in to reverse easily and quietly.
    '74 R12 Sedan (sadly gone)
    '76 R12 Wagon (with Brumbies number plates! sadly now with standard Victorian plates)
    '05 Megane RS 225 (sadly gone)
    2015 Mitsubishi Triton 4WD dual cab (it's no RS Megane)

    '63 125 Vespa
    '66 125 Vespa (smallframe) (sadly gone)
    '81 200 Vespa and sidecar (sadly gone)

    '07 Kawasaki ER-6n (sadly gone)
    2012 Sachs Madass 125 (sadly STOLEN!!!!!)

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