R10 Alconi Project update
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default R10 Alconi Project update

    A few months back I had some help on here regards the colour. Since then it has been stripped and painted. I am now in the process of assembly.

    The pics show the colour. Note the slight flare on the front and rear guards, they are pumped out a little each side. The spare 7 x 13 rears and 6 inch fronts from my R8 G fit perfectly. The wheels in these pics are 5 and 6.

    The 1400 engine I exchanged on here for a case of beer is replacing the old damaged 1400 with the split liner, broken rod and sump full of alloy/steel croutons. There is some work to do on the exhaust and carby but otherwise the engine is almost finished as the pic shows.

    If I have the time and inclination I will do another cold air box similar to the one on the R8G that KB is often referring to. I might hold off on the air box until I go to twin Webbers on the original motor which may end up at around 1600.

    I wonít be posting many updates because it tends to slow the progress in the workshop.

    Cheers all.

    R10 Alconi Project update-tri1401.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-trib4a1.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri8d48.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri1bd7.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri87ef.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri69de.jpg

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    The body and the paint and colour are just AWESOME !!!!!!

    Glad we could help.

    Keep it going, and just a few pictures at a time.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  3. #3
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    Thanks Ray, particularly for the effort you went to on following up your African connections since the Alconi is an SA "Special". The body was absolutely perfect to start with, dead straight with no rust. My mate Steve Kozak had the car stashed away for some time until I managed to convince him to part with it. We have a Renault connection that goes back about 45 years.

    Bruce Mclean from Precision Engineering, who is doing specialist work on that crazy R8 G project of Brett's, has also helped by machining and welding some very old and corroded alloy bits.

    I have added more pics of the rear guards and engine FYI.

    My missus has already found a beret in matching red ? ... ?. I guess that means she drives the Alconi and I have to settle for the R8G !

    R10 Alconi Project update-tria60f.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tridc5c.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri12b3.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R10 Alconi Project update-tri69de.jpg  

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Love the colour as well. I can understand you finding that taking photos slows things down but it'd be a shame not to post a few as you progress.

    Keep up the good work.

  5. #5
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    Peter, the "production" R8 and R10 Alconis ( which could be bought from the dealers showrooms) were fitted with Weber DCD7 downdraught carburettors, but Alconi Developments could supply side draught inlet manifolds in double or single configurations to suit race or rally (or boy racer) requirements. They usually had a pull-knob for a manual choke on the floor between the 2 front seats.

    Much Alconi information could be obtained from the ex S. Africans on this forum, such as Geckoeng, Frans, HarryA, myself and doubless a few more. There is also much info waiting to be googled.

    Henry
    When I find my feet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'll know where I stand!

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Looking good Bustamif.
    I'm guessing Steve did the black wrinkle finish rocker cover!

    If only I could show as much progress on my current project.

    Cheers
    KB
    KB


  7. #7
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    Hi KB and others, Steve is too busy trying to finish another Gordini to have any time to work on my stuffl. There is a black art to getting that wrinkle finish to work. I learned the secret a few years back, it involves heating the job and the can (very carefully to avoid explosion!) to the correct temp then building up layers.

    I have pics below showing the dash for the Alconi almost finished and the R8G both painted in wrinkle finish. KB, you should see if you can get some in that purple you have on your R10 cover !.

    R10 Alconi Project update-tri9eba.jpg R10 Alconi Project update-tri2ea7.jpg

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Gordini Pervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    Hi KB and others, Steve is too busy trying to finish another Gordini to have any time to work on my stuffl. There is a black art to getting that wrinkle finish to work. I learned the secret a few years back, it involves heating the job and the can (very carefully to avoid explosion!) to the correct temp then building up layers.
    Sorry to be a pest but what are the secrets about the wrinkle finish? Id love to know - also looks great!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordini Pervert View Post
    Sorry to be a pest but what are the secrets about the wrinkle finish? Id love to know - also looks great!
    There was a recent episode of "American Restorations" where Rick delegated the job to his son. They gave up after a few attempts to get the correct temp to get the stuff to react properly.

    The problem is usually the wrinkle not being consistent. It will sometimes be coarse in parts and smooth in others. I have found that once it gets going, it spreads to areas that are in sunlight or areas of the job that are warmer than others. It is a matter of trying to control the rate the wrinkle effect spreads by heating with a heat gun, facing the job to the sun if you are outside and applying additional coats. It is easy to get a big run or build up of layers that create a line in the wrinkle. If it is too bad, rub it back and start again.

    The first thing is to generally follow the directions on the can regards the number of coats, the application and time between coats. The trick is to get the job and the can warm. Others may have some opinions and experiences to share. In my case I have applied it to alloy, mild steel and fibreglass.

    I do not use an undercoat. The last few times it has been summer so I waited for a nice 35 C (or hotter) day. I left the job in the sun for an hour or more. I also put the can in the sun to get it nice and warm. Probably not advised by the manufacturer and not good WH&S practice so be warned.

    It takes a bit of practice and don't be tempted to handle the finished product until it has had a few days to cure and harden.

    Hope that helps.

    The trim is almost finished on the Alconi and the new seats are in. If I can complete the accelerator link tomorrow and get the alternator/fan belt adjustment correct the engine will go in tomorrow.

    I will put some pics up tomorrow night if I have time.

  10. #10
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    The seats are in and floor trim is done. The dash and wiring will be tidied up as it goes back in, I usually like to add a few more fuses than the standard couple under the dash. Some more work to do on the accelerator link before the single carb engine goes in.

    R10 Alconi Project update-trib28.jpg

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Are the seats the same as those you put in the Gordini?
    I think you gave me details on where you got those from a while back.
    KB


  12. #12
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    Yes KB, they ware the same ones. Not a bad Chinese copy and the price includes freight that usually takes about 5 days. I still have the details somewhere but they sell through eBay and it is easy to search for them. I even found a steering wheel and gear knob to match.

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Gordini Pervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    There was a recent episode of "American Restorations" where Rick delegated the job to his son. They gave up after a few attempts to get the correct temp to get the stuff to react properly.

    The problem is usually the wrinkle not being consistent. It will sometimes be coarse in parts and smooth in others. I have found that once it gets going, it spreads to areas that are in sunlight or areas of the job that are warmer than others. It is a matter of trying to control the rate the wrinkle effect spreads by heating with a heat gun, facing the job to the sun if you are outside and applying additional coats. It is easy to get a big run or build up of layers that create a line in the wrinkle. If it is too bad, rub it back and start again.

    The first thing is to generally follow the directions on the can regards the number of coats, the application and time between coats. The trick is to get the job and the can warm. Others may have some opinions and experiences to share. In my case I have applied it to alloy, mild steel and fibreglass.

    I do not use an undercoat. The last few times it has been summer so I waited for a nice 35 C (or hotter) day. I left the job in the sun for an hour or more. I also put the can in the sun to get it nice and warm. Probably not advised by the manufacturer and not good WH&S practice so be warned.

    It takes a bit of practice and don't be tempted to handle the finished product until it has had a few days to cure and harden.

    Hope that helps.

    The trim is almost finished on the Alconi and the new seats are in. If I can complete the accelerator link tomorrow and get the alternator/fan belt adjustment correct the engine will go in tomorrow.

    I will put some pics up tomorrow night if I have time.
    thanks mate - much appreciated

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Gordini Pervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    Yes KB, they ware the same ones. Not a bad Chinese copy and the price includes freight that usually takes about 5 days. I still have the details somewhere but they sell through eBay and it is easy to search for them. I even found a steering wheel and gear knob to match.
    And to be a pest again! LOL Would love a link too! Cheers

    BTW the car looks great! Well done

  15. #15
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    Thanks, the engine went in tonight. Clutch, accel and starter all connected and working well.

    For seats try this: Racing Bucket Seats | eBay

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! Gordini Pervert's Avatar
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    F--u ck thats cheap!! nice one!!

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    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    Hi Bustamif,

    Do you have the C pillar Alconi badges? I have a pair if you are interested.

    Cheers
    Current Frogs:


    1964 Renault 8 (1289 / Sonics)
    1968 Renault 10 (Modified 1.4L Alpine White)

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Hi Bustamif,

    Do you have the C pillar Alconi badges? I have a pair if you are interested.

    Cheers
    Thats great news, I was going to have a pair made. Please PM me with some pics and we can maybe work out a deal.

    Cheers,

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Hi Bustamif,

    Do you have the C pillar Alconi badges? I have a pair if you are interested.

    Cheers
    I am also interested in the story behind the badges, were they from a car that came to Aus ?

    There was rumoured to be a genuine R10 Alconi in the Sydney area many years ago however when I tracked down the supposed former owner, it turned out to be untrue. I think it was a modified 12 from memory, not even a 10 - another myth busted.

  20. #20
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Hi Bustamif,

    Do you have the C pillar Alconi badges? I have a pair if you are interested.

    Cheers
    Wow, where on earth did you find them?
    JohnW

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  21. #21
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    I am also interested in the story behind the badges, were they from a car that came to Aus ?

    There was rumoured to be a genuine R10 Alconi in the Sydney area many years ago however when I tracked down the supposed former owner, it turned out to be untrue. I think it was a modified 12 from memory, not even a 10 - another myth busted.
    You are aware there is a genuine R10 Alconi in Perth? It should be at the Classic Car Day on May 8th I expect. Hope I'm not repeating something from earlier here...
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    I received the Alconi badges from Ray (Geckoeng) a few years ago and was planning on putting them on my R10 as an Alconi replica, but ended up making it an R10S replica instead. Ray gave them to me so its only fair that I pay it forward. I'll PM some pics tonight Bustamif.

    Anthony
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  23. #23
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Nice one Anthony!
    KB


  24. #24
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Hi All,

    I received the Alconi badges from Ray (Geckoeng) a few years ago and was planning on putting them on my R10 as an Alconi replica, but ended up making it an R10S replica instead. Ray gave them to me so its only fair that I pay it forward. I'll PM some pics tonight Bustamif.

    Anthony
    10/10 for attitude Anthony! (That gearbox you gave me years ago was checked over by Ray a couple of years ago and now sits in a warm and dry place. My 10S gearbox, overhauled in about 1977 by Jim Bush in Adelaide is still going fine - remember Jim?)

    Back to the Alconi. Just to remind folk that there is some material out there (and in here) on them - remarkably well-modified cars in South Africa.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  25. #25
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    Thanks for the background history Anthony. If anyone would have some Alconi bits it would be Ray with his SA connection. He was very helpful when I first started doing some Alconi research. I recently supplied him with some parts for an EFI project he was working on. There must be some good karma around!

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