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  1. #26
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    Graham, could introduce geodon to Colin please.

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    Adrian Wuillemin

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    Sent PM to Geodon.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adrian Wuillemi View Post
    Graham, could introduce geodon to Colin please.

  3. #28
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    Thanks
    Adrian Wuillemin

  4. #29
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    Default Canopy bows

    Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1259.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1262.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1263.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1265.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1266.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1268.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1269.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1270.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1271.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1272.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1274.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1276.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1277.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1292.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1294.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1295.jpg

    I'm still here!

    I thought parenting kids was a challenge. It's a walk in the park compared to caring for the preceding generation. Spare time is fleeting!

    I really wanted to have a European style canopy on the finished vehicle. I did a 1960 single cab Kombi years ago & it looked far better with a factory canopy.

    Well, thanks to Colin H for the loan of sample bows from his 504 ute. Identical apart from the slotted mounting holes. The 504 sides are higher than the 404?

    The originals are U-section and I could not match it locally. The closest I got was a rectangular tube 31.8x12.7x1.6mm from the local suppliers. The metal thickness was less than the original but I reasoned that because it was a tube that should offset any loss of strength. I hope.

    I tried to find ppl to bend it but the reaction I got was as if I was seeking a 1 in 100 scale model of the Eiffel tower. They said it's impossible without a former. Well, yeah, I got a bit of distortion dimpling on the tight bits but who'll see it?

    First I cut out a former with a jig-saw from 19mm MDF.

    Then I bolted the former to the sides of a workbench and started by fixing the steel tube to the straight bit. I reasoned it was impossible to get the "legs" the correct equidistant lengths so I did them deliberately short then butt welded on bits of the required length.


    The muscle was provided by a yoke and 2 lengths of HT 12mm all-thread. Note the metal screw between the bolts to stop the yoke slipping under tension.

    As it bent, I welded tangs on & screwed them to the former. They were re-usable.

    I made a paper template of the holes to mount the longitudinal timber slats. I'll probably use aluminium riv-nuts instead of nuts & bolts to hold them on.

    A bit of "fine tuning" in a 6 inch vice completed the project.

    The result was not too shabby at all.

    If anyone wants to borrow the former etc let me know
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1260.jpg   Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1261.jpg   Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1264.jpg   Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1267.jpg   Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1273.jpg   Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1275.jpg  

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  5. #30
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    Sorry about the superfluous photos.

    I thought "cutting" meant delete.
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  6. #31
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    Well done.
    Thats a neatly organised garage I must say and even space on the shelving for more boxes.

    Paul.

  7. #32
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    Well done! I always wondered what happened with that ute. Was the original colour Sage Grey?

  8. #33
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    Bertie, mon frere, wern't they ALL Sage Grey?? It sure seems like it. And, yes, it still is & will be SG as you can see from the re-furbished wheels & les boutines nouveaux.
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  9. #34
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    When you are in Sydney next let me know.

    I found two more parts for you

    Regards

    Adrian
    Adrian Wuillemin

  10. #35
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    Voiture Peugeot 404 occasion de 1973 pour 3250 ?

    This is a 404 ute chassis for sale in Europe.

    Thanks for posting this in used cars for sale. That rear shot was invaluable. I can see clearly now what has been welded onto mine; obviously a bastardised tray has been put on at some stage!

    Can anyone tell me what those two irregular shaped brackets under the left & right ends of the tray are for? I'm guessing they are tail light brackets but they are not on mine nor is there evidence that they were there. But this is a 1973 model and mine is a 1970. Plus this is European. Comments?
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
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    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
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  11. #36
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    Yeah! Sure looks like it. Should not be to hard to make.

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=p...7XV__nEMDBY%3D

    Not the yellow one- the two Sage Grey ones
    Last edited by geodon; 29th November 2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: more info
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

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  12. #37
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    Check in the boxes, you have them.
    Adrian Wuillemin

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
    Bertie, mon frere, wern't they ALL Sage Grey?? It sure seems like it. And, yes, it still is & will be SG as you can see from the re-furbished wheels & les boutines nouveaux.
    The ute at my place was white. I know of two blue ones (1 in pristine condition), and a grey one. The rest ate sage grey though.
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  14. #39
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    Default Removing Mastic

    The underside of the bonnet and part of the engine bay was coated in this bituminous crud.

    You can't paint it so it had to come off.

    The bonnet fitted into one of my electrolysis tanks. (refer my post this thread 11/1/2015). As I didn't want to remove the orig paint (esp under the bracing framework where I can't re-paint), I did not apply current.

    I was hoping the weak Sodium Hydroxide solution (less than 1%) would soften it. After 3 days it started to flake off & the high pressure cleaner did the rest leaving the orig paint intact

    Engine bay was harder. A Scotchbrite pad held onto a steel rod with cable ties & dipped in GP thinners did the job. Tedious but effective.


    Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1300.jpg
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    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
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    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  15. #40
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    OK! Time to roll out the rear end.

    The rear spring mounts are elementary & damn clever cf the Land Rover ones where all the shackle mounts are integral with the ladder chassis & bush replacement is a nightmare involving burning out the rubber then hack sawing the inner metal bush before using a threaded puller to drag it out. *shudder* As Basil Fawlty's German guest once muttered: "How did these people win the war?"

    At least here I can use a press.

    The torque tube is still installed & I can't figure out how the leading (front or GB) end is defying gravity. I can't see mounting bolts but there is a reinforcing plate on the tunnel.

    Does it have a tongue or something that goes into a slot? I guess it needs to have a bit of slack to accommodate the rear axle moving about?
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  16. #41
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    At least here I can use a press.
    Although the way the silenbloc bushes rust in, a press does not guarantee easy removal.

    These days I burn out the bush with a lpg torch and then fold the outer "tube" into the centre with a pin punch (there is enough protruding to get purchase on it with the punch)

    After that, some spirited work with a 10mm punch will collapse the tube completely and it will fall out. And it is surprising fast.

    I fit the new bush with a spray of lanolin and in the vice with a washer as a spacer on the bush centre tube.

    Takes about 10 -15 minutes per bush.

    EDIT: Just realized the rear silenblocs on the ute are quite long, so it may be more of a battle than the shortish sedan bushes.
    Last edited by robmac; 23rd December 2015 at 05:06 PM.
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  17. #42
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    Spherical Torque anchor ( quaintly described as "pillow block " in parts manual ) at front end

    Two halves held together by large Allen Key headed bolts. From memory they take a 10mm Allen drive

    Not hard to find and release, although a long 10mm Allen drive is handy

    Dirty job in most cars

    Andrew

  18. #43
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    Could scan and email the relevant bits of parts manual if it would help

    Andrew

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
    OK! Time to roll out the rear end.

    The rear spring mounts are elementary & damn clever cf the Land Rover ones where all the shackle mounts are integral with the ladder chassis & bush replacement is a nightmare involving burning out the rubber then hack sawing the inner metal bush before using a threaded puller to drag it out. *shudder* As Basil Fawlty's German guest once muttered: "How did these people win the war?"

    At least here I can use a press.

    The torque tube is still installed & I can't figure out how the leading (front or GB) end is defying gravity. I can't see mounting bolts but there is a reinforcing plate on the tunnel.

    Does it have a tongue or something that goes into a slot? I guess it needs to have a bit of slack to accommodate the rear axle moving about?
    I've never had to separate the spherical head "pillow block". Just undo the four M10 (?) cap screws and with a decent tug the rear end rolls away.There is a rim that sits inside the end of the gearbox

    I should add the entire process is easier if the torque tube is close to normal position, ie the arse end of the diff not hanging down. The prop shaft tends to jam in the uni if it's not close to normal running "angle"

    Sometimes the prop shaft stays engaged with uni joint and comes out of the diff splines. Have a rag and scotch brite pad to wipe the prop shaft , the scotch brite will give some grip to allow you pull the prop shaft off the uni.

    Be prepared for a big oily ooze , a mixture of gearbox and diff oil and grease collected in the TT over 40 years odd.

    Recover the coil springs inside the female splines of the prop shaft ! The is definately one at diff end , and possibly both ends. They preload the prop shaft.

    BTW the uni joint has a bolt up the middle into the gearbox shaft so it will stay put.

    You have undone the diff brake hose to the body ?

    EDIT: If you want a manual send me pm with your email address and I will send the pdf - it's 50 meg 'tho.
    Last edited by robmac; 24th December 2015 at 08:12 AM.
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  20. #45
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    Also put a rag/container under the prop shaft if your going to stand it up to store. Said sludge will ooze out over a couple of days. Not a pleasant surprise or mess to clean up off a concrete floor. (Still trying to remove the stain)

  21. #46
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    **************I've never had to separate the spherical head "pillow block". Just undo the four M10 (?) cap screws and with a decent tug the rear end rolls away.There is a rim that sits inside the end of the gearbox **************

    That's the thing!

    The GB is out but the TT is just hanging there like that old bra ad said " with no visible means of support".

    EDIT:

    *Giorgio has yet another BFO (Blinding Flash of the Obvious)*

    The problem is I'm used to normal prop shafts.

    The TT is rigid, yes?

    It's bolted to the diff, yes?

    Ergo it can't flop down while the rear suspension is in situ.

    Have I got it right?

    As my youngest daughter was always saying: "Well, derrrrr, Dad".

    It was recalling that bra ad that did it.
    Last edited by geodon; 24th December 2015 at 07:00 AM.
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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
    **************I've never had to separate the spherical head "pillow block". Just undo the four M10 (?) cap screws and with a decent tug the rear end rolls away.There is a rim that sits inside the end of the gearbox **************

    That's the thing!

    The GB is out but the TT is just hanging there like that old bra ad said " with no visible means of support".

    EDIT:

    *Giorgio has yet another BFO (Blinding Flash of the Obvious)*

    The problem is I'm used to normal prop shafts.

    The TT is rigid, yes?

    It's bolted to the diff, yes?

    Ergo it can't flop down while the rear suspension is in situ.

    Have I got it right?

    As my youngest daughter was always saying: "Well, derrrrr, Dad".

    It was recalling that bra ad that did it.
    Normally in that situation, just take off the wheels, disconnect the diff as an assembly, ie centre brake hose, handbrake cables at the equalizer, shockers, ARB, brake compensator linkage (does the ute have one?) and then just drag the assembly backwards.

    The spherical head pillow block may be a bit tight to release from the rear gbox mount sometimes.

    Watch the trapped oil in the TT and be aware of the preload spring at the diff end of the prop shaft!
    Last edited by robmac; 24th December 2015 at 08:25 AM.
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  23. #48
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    Default Cowabunga!

    Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1316.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1317.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1315.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1314.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1307.jpgPeugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1306.jpg


    OK

    All straightforward. Front end also

    Very neat arrangement! I'm impressed.

    I made a note in the jiffy bags with the nuts etc that the rear springs when released tried to "make a circle" so there may be an issue lining up the mounting holes on reassembly. I propose to use some truck size tie-down ratchet straps to compress the springs and make the ellipse wider thereby (hopefully) lining up the bolts.

    Thank God for rattle guns & my Fergy to do heavy lifting.

    That's it while I wait for the rotisserie. Over to the Dauphine to reassemble the power unit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Peugeot 404 Utility Project-img_1305.jpg  
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    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  24. #49
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    Hi Geodon
    I,am very impressed by your work and paint stripping I have a 404 ute with the same tray as yours are there any tricks to removing the tray sides as mine are held on with about 1 million spot welds.
    I can send you detailed pics of the tail light brackets if you need them.
    Marty 404
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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by marty 404 View Post
    Hi Geodon
    I,am very impressed by your work and paint stripping I have a 404 ute with the same tray as yours are there any tricks to removing the tray sides as mine are held on with about 1 million spot welds.
    I can send you detailed pics of the tail light brackets if you need them.
    Marty 404
    Can't help you Marty.

    The sides were off the frame. In fact, I suspect they are from another car. (Adrian?) There's strong evidence of a bastardised tray having been on the back of it- lots of brackety things welded on via something like a 400 Amp farm welder!

    Many years ago, I owned a VW Type 181/M63- an ex-NATO field car:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_181

    I imported it from Amsterdam- ex Dutch Army & with a VERY scary petrol burning heater. Bloody NATO wooses!- and back then only RHD cars could get full rego so I had to convert it from LHD.

    Changing the dash involved removing heaps of spot welds.

    From memory I used one of these:

    HSS 3 8'' 10mm Spot Weld Welder Drill Cutter Free Postage | eBay

    This of course leaves a circular wad of metal that needs to be ground off.


    But I've heard of smarties using these things as drills to cut out JUST the spot weld leaving, if you're careful (!), sound metal plus a convenient hole in the panel being removed to apply a plug weld later. They are so cheap that you discard them after 2-3 welds & it works out faster than stopping to sharpen a drill bit. Actually you can probably keep them & use them as normal screws.

    20 PCS 8mm Diameter Flange HEX Head Self Drilling Tapping Screws M4 2x19mm | eBay

    Oh! & I found tail light brackets- as you do when you buy a basket case!
    Last edited by geodon; 20th January 2016 at 05:58 AM.
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

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