205 gti: project slow
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Thread: 205 gti: project slow

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 205 gti: project slow

    I thought I would put my slow endeavors into a build thread as I work my way to getting this car on the road. I bought this tired 205gti back in April when to my surprise I was given the green light by my wife to by a project. A friend noticed it come up through the defence network and it was intended as a parts car. The only thing missing was the rear wiper assembly, a GTI badge and a working alternator. The car hadn't been driven in 4 years but started and was shipped sight unseen to me on the back of a truck. It was only that it was so cheap I took a punt on without looking in person.

    And so it arrived..


    It arrived as described and overall it was relatively straight with dings in the front guards and faded paint. Age had taken a toll on it though with interior in a rough way and every pocket outside stuffed with leaves and dirt. Amazingly it started first go and my first and only drive of a 205 GTI commenced...into the garage. Clouds of blue smoke greeted my amazed neighbours as I revved the poor beastie trying to get enough torque to move without stalling. Eventually in a cacophony of rattles, squeaks and groaning it moved enough to get into the garage.



    Excuse image quality as many shots were taken by phone for later reference.

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    Now a plan?!?! Where to start? Well I decided I would try to work out what was good and what was bad and replace the bad bits with the good. This was a project to play with so it started out with an idea that maybe in 6 months or so I could drive it. I know I'm terrible at painting and don't have the patience so I have sourced a friend of a friend to help out with that but he works FIFO so I will get around to that eventually. I dove in and pulled out the interior and found much to my horror the 80's plastics suck. I think every piece was broken.



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    Now my confidence on working on this is as follows: painting= low, electrical=sucks, mechanical= okish. I knew the engine was knackered and decided the best course was to replace it for now so I got stuck into ripping out all sorts of interesting things. Along the way I researched what was what and decided an Mi16 might be the way to go for a cheap upgrade. I started stripping the car to remove all the outside bits to eventually paint as well and have ended up with a garage full of parts.




    After a momentous battle with the rear driveshaft/ engine mount I finally had the engine free.

  4. #4
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    Driveshaft still in engine mount as it wouldn't come out in car.


    The engine bay was filthy. Nearly 30 years of grease, leaves and dirt could have hid anything so I set out determined to clean up and see what was there. Well I sent my helper into the engine bay...


    A 2 year old wielding tools is a fearful thing.

    Who knew it was silver under there?


    Lot's of delightful discoveries such as the engine mount


    It's a wonder the old engine started

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Cheap as a Mi16 graft may seem (now), you might find a head refresh job is cheaper and more effective. If you pull the head off and find the pistons and everything else in there okay, I would think around 1000$ would bring your engine back to its former glory easily.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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    Side by side. Note the patented shovel support stand


    Faced with delays painting etc and no time to get stuck in myself I have slowly progressed. I decided to keep the original colour going which seems to be silver M1TQ. I was going to leave the engine bay but there were a few scratches and I decided I could give painting a go under there as it wasn't critical. I want a car to drive not a show pony.


    Looks ok to me!

    I pulled off the cam cover and had a look and everything looked clean and ok to my untrained eye so I painted to cover and cleaned up the engine.


    I pulled off the worlds dirtiest gear box and am looking at the clutch at the moment. I guess I should buy a new Mi16 version? I also stripped off all the water housings, oil cooler etc and will look at what I need when I get time. There will be a few new hoses required for sure. I have the angled plate and exhaust manifold to go on soon.

    I also removed some small surface rust spots on the hatch floor and under the drivers feet. Only a few mm across and barely deeper than the paint so I have sanded them out and primered. Also under the heater there was a bit no doubt from previous leaks. I have started masking up the car and working on the tiny door dings etc.

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    I discovered a small crack near the drivers seat mount on the "transmission tunnel". That's my next target to get fixed then to source some tidier sound proofing as the mat looks fine on the top but water has destroyed the fibre underneath in some areas. I already have the motor Schlitz so I will progress down that path. The idea is to get it all going and registered then when it's ready for a refresh I will rebuild it at that point with all the fun bits.

  8. #8
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    btw did I put the 3 centre bolts of the cam cover around the right way? I forgot to take a pic with the spark channel cover off and cant remember where the centre bolt went of the 3.

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    I have never had a 205 so zero knowledge. This is a geat read and interesting. Keep up the good work.

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    Looking good....keep going !! :}
    jr20516v

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    Previous: Honda EP3 Supercharged , 205 x34 [ including MI16 TURBO, 8v TURBO, CTI, 16V+TB's, 8V+TB's,] Fiat X1-9 X3, Beta coupes x5, Lancia Gamma coupe, GTI-R, Corvette C4, Fiero x5, Alpine GTA turbo, r5 GTT Dimma, 2cv ripple nose, Lotus Elise, 205 Dimma TT, Cliosport 172.x2, Clio rs 200

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    Good stuff mate. Looking forward to following this through!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    btw did I put the 3 centre bolts of the cam cover around the right way? I forgot to take a pic with the spark channel cover off and cant remember where the centre bolt went of the 3.
    They look to be in the right places - the centre one would normally have the middle spark plug lead cover bolt screw into it.

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    Thanks I haven't found the cover yet so wasn't sure. It's in my collection of washing basket storage. It's slow going with a little one and long work hours but I will keep at it and update my mistakes along the way.

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    I went to bolt the gearbox up today and found that the clutch housing doesn't line up with the locating dowels on the flywheel. I thought it was a direct swap. What do I need?

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    You need an Mi16 flywheel.


    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    I went to bolt the gearbox up today and found that the clutch housing doesn't line up with the locating dowels on the flywheel. I thought it was a direct swap. What do I need?

  16. #16
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    You can use the 205 clutch and flywheel. or mi16 clutch and flywheel. the mi is larger. I found you cant mix and match.

  17. #17
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    Ah ok so I need to pull the fly wheel off the old 8v motor and swap to the mi16? Did you mean I needed the 8v flywheel Graham? I dread doing this as I have memories of breaking half a dozen sockets trying to undoing bolts on a datsun L18 flywheel the only time I tried to remove one.

    Or do I buy a new clutch kit? They include a new housing and would have everything I need don't they? Can anyone recommend where to get one in Aus?

  18. #18
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    I thought you were fitting an Mi16 clutch, should have been obvious that you had an Mi16 flywheel as you are fitting that engine!
    If you want to use an 8 valve clutch you will need the 8 valve flywheel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    Ah ok so I need to pull the fly wheel off the old 8v motor and swap to the mi16? Did you mean I needed the 8v flywheel Graham? I dread doing this as I have memories of breaking half a dozen sockets trying to undoing bolts on a datsun L18 flywheel the only time I tried to remove one.

    Or do I buy a new clutch kit? They include a new housing and would have everything I need don't they? Can anyone recommend where to get one in Aus?

  19. #19
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    The flywheel bolts will spin off easily with a rattle gun.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    Ah ok so I need to pull the fly wheel off the old 8v motor and swap to the mi16? Did you mean I needed the 8v flywheel Graham? I dread doing this as I have memories of breaking half a dozen sockets trying to undoing bolts on a datsun L18 flywheel the only time I tried to remove one.

    Or do I buy a new clutch kit? They include a new housing and would have everything I need don't they? Can anyone recommend where to get one in Aus?

  20. #20
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    Well I'm getting a compressor this afternoon after nearly having a heart attack at the price of a respray and already have a rattle gun so I will give it a go thanks. The cheaper the better for now so I can get it on the road and running. There was plenty of meat on the clutch face hence I was going to swap.

  21. #21
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    There is a cheap Mi16 clutch kit advertised by EAI on Ebay unless it has gone in the last week or so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    Well I'm getting a compressor this afternoon after nearly having a heart attack at the price of a respray and already have a rattle gun so I will give it a go thanks. The cheaper the better for now so I can get it on the road and running. There was plenty of meat on the clutch face hence I was going to swap.

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    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    Well I'm getting a compressor this afternoon after nearly having a heart attack at the price of a respray and already have a rattle gun so I will give it a go thanks. The cheaper the better for now so I can get it on the road and running. There was plenty of meat on the clutch face hence I was going to swap.
    supercheap got a sale on this weekend for a compressor + spray + hose combo. Not sure if it's actually good quality, the guys here might know

  23. #23
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    So I have now changed the flywheel and clutch and it's time to put the gearbox back on but I forgot to take a photo so I know which bolt is which. I have 3 long 16mm bolts, 1 long allen head and 1 shorter one. Which one goes where? The Haynes manual is missing the gearbox part. Also I managed to get the gearbox back on the engine but it seems to sit about 10mm apart from housing/block until I sort of lean it a bit. Is this due to the clutch not aligning properly or do the bolts help align and pull it in correctly? I would have thought the input shaft wouldnt have gone in even a bit if the alignment was wrong but it just seems a little off.

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts pgti6's Avatar
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    The long allen (cap) head bolt fits at the lower rear and goes through from the engine side into the gearbox. It should have a square washer on it to fit the confines of the engine strengthening webbing. From memory the short one goes opposite the clutch throw-out lever.

    I think to need to slacken off the clutch pressure plate bolts to re-align the clutch centrally so the input shaft will slide into the crank. Use a suitably sized socket as a 'dummy' input shaft and don't forget to re-tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts.

    Check you have the correct locating dowels to align the box/engine before bolting up. You should be able to push the box onto the engine so it's flush all around before bolting up.
    Track car-Steel Grey 405 Mi16 2.2 litre


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    Are the locating dowels on the mi16 different to those on the 8v block? I noticed the top one seemed to be a bit wider but thought it was just I hadn't aligned it completely but now I'm wondering if that's the issue causing the small gap with the dowels not sitting in the location holes flush. Be1 gearbox.

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