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Thread: 1959 Floride Restoration

  1. #26
    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    For the red one..?
    Yes, for the red one, and the other red one(63-1092) and the other one that will be red.

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    John
    Александър Кристоф Шанел

  2. #27
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    Wow! that's exactly what I needed- thanks very much!

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    The original colour is a dark blue. I don't recall seeing a stencil, but I haven't dipped the boot & bonnet & they still look like they have the original colour on the inside. Not sure what colour to repaint it, but I reckpn I have plenty of time to think about it!

  4. #29
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    Redoing in original scheme would look superbe. Whitewalls. Brown interior. The bronze colour is also pretty snazzy, I think any vintage French car in dark blue looks great.

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    hi all, update time. a couple of weekends ago i took the car down to Motorretro in seven hills & we had a good look at it. The good news is its pretty straight, despite a poorly repaired whack on her pretty nose. the other good news is there are patches of solid metal holding the rust holes together. its honestly a mighty job of rust repairs, & only an fool would take it on.
    so, naturally, i have decided to take it on.
    step one was to remove the old lead from the panel joins. i thought the lead looked pretty good, but it was patiently explained that 57 year old lead that has been dipped is not the solid foundation for a resto. sure enough, when i melted it out, more rust! Hooray!
    on an enthusiastic newbie note: removing the lead was pretty cool- heating the lead & watching it turn into liquid & run like a river down the body, then resolidify on the floor made me think of Terminator 2!
    next step is taking a fortnight off work next month & taking the car to motorretro to get a solid start on it. i'm planning on bringing a camp bed & living there to maximise bay rental value for money
    1959 Floride Restoration-img_0977.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0974.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0978.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0980.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0966.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0960.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_0971.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1959 Floride Restoration-img_0958.jpg  
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  7. #32
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    Great stuff, keep up the good work.
    So we're the sills, triangles, boot floor and chassis rails not affected by rust?
    Well done if not.
    John
    Александър Кристоф Шанел

  8. #33
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    hello mate , due to bad accident I was unable to restore mine [ similar to yours ] I still fret & have withdrawal symtoms ! however I still have parts left over that would interest you and perhaps other enthusiests. ''complete '' 750 also R10 and floride convertible parts . I am just down the road from you @ prospect nsw should you or anyone like to have a look . 0411 106 949 or junxter@hotmail.com ............happy easter...........les

  9. #34
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    Well, alas for me this journey has come to an end. Some life-priority shuffling means I am not proceeding with the resto after all. Honestly after getting a true sense of what it will take to do this, I am just not prepared to devote the required resources of time, money and opportunity-cost of all the other fun things I want to do, as much as I love the car & what it could be.
    Its currently a bare metal, rust free shell with lots of holes where the rust used to be, and a really big hole where i removed the floor pan (not before 3D scanning it & also making careful templates). The shell is sitting on a custom made frame on a boat trailer for easy transport. the frame was designed to be attached to a rotisserie.
    The parts that came off it are bagged & labelled. lots of extras including a spare good bonnet & boot, several motors of uncertain condition & 2 complete transaxles. also a couple of sets of wheels, including the sunraysia types in the photos at the start of this post.
    So, if anyone wants to take it on, its had a pretty good start. otherwise its going to sit in my shed under wraps for a while- its not like they're making any more of them...
    Please get in touch if you're interested, may be interested in breaking it up depending on what's wanted.

    1959 Floride Restoration-img_4952.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_4953.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_4954.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-img_4958.jpg

  10. #35
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    Very unfortunate you won't be able to see it through to completion. Hopefully it won't be broken up but be taken on by someone who has the time, etc to finish it off.

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    For anyone who is interested, here are some pics of the 3D scan I did on the floorpan using a scanner I borrowed from work. Came up pretty well...

    I guess I will post an ad in the for sale section of AF shortly. As Peter mentioned, it would be great to find someone who wants to take it on rather than part it out.
    1959 Floride Restoration-floride_pan_scan.jpg1959 Floride Restoration-floride_pan_scan_under.jpg
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    Hope you find a good buyer soon to take it on, if a car is messing with the program lose it! Restos are a serious drain on ones time and wallet, the passion sometimes needs to have obsession level determination to pursue as otherwise it won't happen. This forum is fantastic for the like minded and a good place to offer advice or be encouraged! My personal motto for a resto going onto 4 years is "failure is not an option". Finding a balance can be very demanding. A Floride ( or any 50 year old car for that matter) is always going to be a challenge, even for the experts!
    As I stare at what course of action to take with door handles and navigate my way through reviving 4 42 year old Citroen doors...
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  13. #38
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    Sad news, that makes two Florides lately that have been given up on, the first ended up at the scrapers lets hope someone takes this on and its saved.
    John
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  14. #39
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 63-1092 View Post
    Sad news, that makes two Florides lately that have been given up on, the first ended up at the scrapers lets hope someone takes this on and its saved.
    Yes, and they're too nice a looking car for that fate.

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    "Giving up" is a bit harsh John! Sometimes you just have to know when to fold em'. I have an R16 which I am dread to dispose of but realistically cannot see myself rescuing, I wish someone would buy it here but I'm in Darwin so market virtually non existent. It is a pity the other one was squashed, they are rare and worth saving, to the right people.
    I also know of a Floride here which the owner has an idea is worth much much more than what its worth, think a total resto might chew through $20000 (after acquisition!) and whats a reasonable one fetch? Between seven and fifteen grand? So unless you want a massive job and want the car as a keeper it just doesn't add up to do one.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 20th May 2016 at 12:23 PM.

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    I intend to do a Caravelle now that the Alconi and Gordini are all finished and sorted however I must reduce the fleet down from 9 before adding another. Lets hope the shell received a nice protective coating after it was dipped or it will be be in a sorry state very quickly now the project has stalled (I was going to say the project was abandoned but that is a little too harsh).

    The 3D scan of the floor is very impressive. Assuming there was a plan, what is involved in turning that 3D scan into a (steel) floor and at what cost and where is the floor which was removed ?

  17. #42
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    Giving up & abandoning! More like a sensible reallocation of my limited time, energy and money... As mentioned above, you gotta know when to fold'em. Just ask Kenny Rogers.

    The shell is protected with Kephos (aka Paintgrip 253) which should keep it good for a while- I am reapplying it periodically & the shell is undercover & under wraps.

    The 3D scan is a mm accurate record of the floor pan (you can even see the crappy weld effort someone did at some point on the RH seat area!). I have a 3D CAD modelling background & intended to use the scan to generate accurate template drawings, & also had the idea of having a 20mm sheet of MDF laser cut with all the features to use like a dolly to shape the features against. For complex 3D shapes like guards etc it would be useful for generating cross sections & profiles, with the benefit of being able to mirror parts (e.g. scanning & mirroring a straight LH panel to help you recreate a bent /non existent RH one).
    Of course I have the pan that came out (removed correctly with a spot weld drill), as well as hand drawn templates as a backup.

    As for old French cars, I have actually just bought a Peugeot 404 in very good nick- ex Canberra car, straight, no rust (yes, no rust), mechanically sweet. So the adventure is not over, just redirected.
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  18. #43
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    I'd be interested to hear more about the scanning and how that happens, maybe start a separate thread?
    KB


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    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
    ... ~30 years ago I got my grounding at Noble Park Tech via TAFE one night a week. Fantastic course that taught me skills I still use today.
    I really miss it because they also gave me access to exotic equipment like wheeling machines, rollers, shrinking machines and the like.
    I'll never forget my 1st assignment: to make a perfectly half spherical hub cap from a flat piece of steel.
    Damn pity the Bean Counters have killed hobby courses like this. The internet (You Tube) helps but it's not as good as hands on.
    Did you know John Palmer or Lindsay Thompson?

  20. #45
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    Now my Fast Floride Project.

    Looks like itís my project now. Gerard put in a lot of effort to carefully strip the car to a bare shell, tag everything and store all the parts in airtight bags as well as acquire many additional parts to make it a very worthwhile project. I really donít have enough time or money to finish it as quickly as I did with the Alconi and Gordini. I am still working out where everything goes with lots of reference to the parts manual kindly on loan thanks to Steve Kozac. Luckily the suspension and brakes are familiar territory.

    I have a few engine options to consider and I also have a few 16TS and R10 gearboxes lying around. I would like to use the TS internals in a 10 box same as my Gordini to give me a better final drive ratio.
    The decision is between a 1.4 or 16TS engine. The disadvantage with the 16TS is where the alternator and water pump finish up near the fuel tank. I believe the Florides have a few fuel tank variations which may help the alternator setup if I choose the TS.

    The purists may have already guessed this is not going to be a straight resto. I have started working out mods to the chassis rails and various other tricks to stiffen the chassis. The fact it currently has no floor is a big help with design work to solve the torsional rigidity issue for an open top car.

    I donít intend to run it in track or tarmac competition so I donít have to go too far in the chassis area.
    After all the lessons learnt on cooling my Gordini, I will definitely put the radiator in the front of the Floride in the spare wheel area. Those air inlets in front of the rear wheels will give me a great cold air inlet to the Twin Webbers and nice flow through the engine bay and out the back.

    The first stage is to put it on a rotisserie and start welding the chassis and body then paint it.

    1959 Floride Restoration-tri30d8.jpg 1959 Floride Restoration-tri52d2.jpg 1959 Floride Restoration-tri5ca7.jpg
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  21. #46
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    Im very glad its gone to a good home! I look forward to seeing the progress.

  22. #47
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    A 1092 floride has only one fuel tank location and thats the right side under the rear seat.
    Dont know what tank or where it was on this car, but an other option is to put the fuel tank in the front and leave the rad in its original spot with a larger unit and thermo fans.
    Glad to see youre gonna save the floride, and going by the earlier photo's theres still a fair bit of rust in the sills to sort out. Good luck with the project and keep the progress reports coming.
    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by 63-1092 View Post
    A 1092 floride has only one fuel tank location and thats the right side under the rear seat.
    Dont know what tank or where it was on this car, but an other option is to put the fuel tank in the front and leave the rad in its original spot with a larger unit and thermo fans.
    Glad to see youre gonna save the floride, and going by the earlier photo's theres still a fair bit of rust in the sills to sort out. Good luck with the project and keep the progress reports coming.
    couldn't one do both?

    custom fuel tank full width up against firewall & radiator in nose

    cheers! Peter

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bustamif View Post
    Now my Fast Floride Project.

    Looks like it’s my project now. Gerard put in a lot of effort to carefully strip the car to a bare shell, tag everything and store all the parts in airtight bags as well as acquire many additional parts to make it a very worthwhile project. I really don’t have enough time or money to finish it as quickly as I did with the Alconi and Gordini. I am still working out where everything goes with lots of reference to the parts manual kindly on loan thanks to Steve Kozac. Luckily the suspension and brakes are familiar territory.

    I have a few engine options to consider and I also have a few 16TS and R10 gearboxes lying around. I would like to use the TS internals in a 10 box same as my Gordini to give me a better final drive ratio.
    The decision is between a 1.4 or 16TS engine. The disadvantage with the 16TS is where the alternator and water pump finish up near the fuel tank. I believe the Florides have a few fuel tank variations which may help the alternator setup if I choose the TS.

    The purists may have already guessed this is not going to be a straight resto. I have started working out mods to the chassis rails and various other tricks to stiffen the chassis. The fact it currently has no floor is a big help with design work to solve the torsional rigidity issue for an open top car.

    I don’t intend to run it in track or tarmac competition so I don’t have to go too far in the chassis area.
    After all the lessons learnt on cooling my Gordini, I will definitely put the radiator in the front of the Floride in the spare wheel area. Those air inlets in front of the rear wheels will give me a great cold air inlet to the Twin Webbers and nice flow through the engine bay and out the back.

    The first stage is to put it on a rotisserie and start welding the chassis and body then paint it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I always wanted to do a Floride/Caravelle "Gordini" so I applaud the project.

    When thinking about it, I was going to use a roll cage for torsional & bending rigidity enhancement.

    I was also going touse a twin 40 DCOE-ed R5 Alpine motor on "same-ish weight as R16TS but lower C.G." grounds. (I ended up going down that path with the 4CVG.)

    bonne chance et bravo!

    Peter

    cheers! Peter

  25. #50
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    I had a Caravelle in ZA that I fitted a 18 Turbo motor in. One of the best driveable cars I had!

    No you can't fit both tanks Peter because the Floride gearbox doesn't have the stabiliser bars running diagonally to the front. When the R8/R10 gearbox is used that tank has to be removed.

    It was a reasonably easy build as well because of the 16TS bell housing that bolts straight onto the R8 box and then to the engine. The only thing to look out for is when the 16TS bell housing is fitted that the oil seal area on the spigot matches that of the seal. I think there is a difference. Radiator to the front is a recommendation on my behalf because then you will know that it is sufficient from the the word go.

    Another mod on this project was a heat shield over the turbo because it was a little too close to the bonnet and I thought it might damage the paint work.

    Clutch mechanism had to be modified as well.

    Regards
    Frans.
    J-man likes this.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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