Clear addition to acrylic lacquer
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Thread: Clear addition to acrylic lacquer

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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    Default Clear addition to acrylic lacquer

    What is the ratio of clear to acyrlic lacquer to give a tad more shine? This question sounds a bit like "how long is a piece of thread", however I am sure there somewhat of a norm on this one. I am not looking for a 2 pak looking result.

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    What is the ratio of clear to acyrlic lacquer to give a tad more shine? This question sounds a bit like "how long is a piece of thread", however I am sure there somewhat of a norm on this one. I am not looking for a 2 pak looking result.
    I've not heard of adding clear to a solid colour to improve gloss, clear would normally be used as final coats over metalics or to give depth to a solid.

    With Acrylic Lacquer a very good gloss can be achieved in the final coats by just adding thinner, so you might start painting with the recommended ratio, perhaps wet sand between coats and add up to 10% thinner to your final coats. Allow at least 2 weeks before buffing to your desired finish.

    That's been my experience, others may have more information regarding adding clear to a solid?

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    You can do it if they are both Dulon acrylics, not basecoat and clear. I have no experience of other brands. I'd suggest dropping clear in the gun or mixing pot without washing it, when you've laid down enough coats for opacity, plus one. Agitate it well to pick up all the colour or flake, and apply slightly dry coats (ie, don't let it run). You will need to create enough of each ratio mixed, to evenly cover the entire area.

    It will look different, deeper colour more than better shine.

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    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    My experience of Acrylics in Australia, is also quality of paint. Some are very good, a lot are cheap and nasty. I do not know the brand I buy in Perth as the supplier puts their own lable on it. I normally always spray quite a wet mix, so it flows, but you have to watch its depth so you get no runs.
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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    Thanks for suggestions. Have gone with 20% clear . Result looks good so far but will await final result after I leave for at least 5 days before I apply 1500 with soap and buff up with cutting compound followed with plain flour. If it comes up a treat may enter in RCCV show otherwise will hide in shed.
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I wouldn't use clear over acrylic laquer paint. It just makes the inevitable repairs more difficult and gives high paint buildup (so the already very soft laquer will chip even easier). If you colour sand it flat and compound it, you'll find without clear is just as shiny. I'd only bother with clear if your painting metalic/perl colours. That way you can colour sand the clear flat and cut it. You can't sand/finish a metalic paint.

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    Thanks for suggestions. Have gone with 20% clear . Result looks good so far but will await final result after I leave for at least 5 days before I apply 1500 with soap and buff up with cutting compound followed with plain flour. If it comes up a treat may enter in RCCV show otherwise will hide in shed.
    It'll still look fantastic, it'll probably just make repairs in the future slightly harder to match. So long as you block it back flat and cut it up with course -> super fine cutters, it'll come out like a gleaming mirror.

    Acrylic laquer (especially quality brands like PPG) have a staggeringly good mirror like finish if you put the time and effort in. It just doens't last for shit in my experiance

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    A friend once used a good method whereby the last solid coat of acrylic is to do a "flow-coat" comprising a high percentage of thinners. I can't recall the exact amount but my recollection is it could be 90% thinners. Google that one perhaps to confirm.
    KB


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    Yes, retarder thinners are part of that, and it's ideal if you've flattened it well between coats.

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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    A friend once used a good method whereby the last solid coat of acrylic is to do a "flow-coat" comprising a high percentage of thinners. I can't recall the exact amount but my recollection is it could be 90% thinners. Google that one perhaps to confirm.
    Maybe thats how the old timer who sprayed my guard pulled such a great finish straight off the gun with no sanding cutting or buffing.
    It is still the best part of my car many years later.

    Jo

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Maybe thats how the old timer who sprayed my guard pulled such a great finish straight off the gun with no sanding cutting or buffing.
    It is still the best part of my car many years later.

    Jo
    He probably knows the perefect settings for his gun to lay to paint down. Given the DIY way were doing it .... final gloss off the gun simply doesn't matter (except for door openings where you won't compound it). The rest doesn't matter how "un-shiny" it comes off the gun, 'cos your going to de-knib it and sand it level either way.

    I used to reduce the paint and lower the pressure for the door openings, you risk runs, and it won't work for metalics... but it'll get a better finish off the gun.

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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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