74 DSpecial Renewal - Page 5
  • Register
  • Help
Page 5 of 13 First 123456789 ... Last
Results 101 to 125 of 303
Like Tree59Likes

Thread: 74 DSpecial Renewal

  1. #101
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    15,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    The images of what you might expect on dismantling rear axles, not pretty. The outer races of the inner stub axle are in the parlance rooted. The bearings on the torsion bar ends are extremely worn also, but their movement is restricted so I might try and skim a bit off and hope it reduces the wear, some decent grease is going to be appreciated after a thorough clean and paint. I also discovered that a heat gun and scraper are no match for an air chisel on tar floor matting. Bastard of a job, only gouged one hole in the floor pan, no big deal as some welding lined up.
    Wow ... there fubar .... I didn't realise DS's trashes there rear arm bearings Those suckers look bone dry and rusty!

    Advertisement
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  2. #102
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,326

    Default

    Those are the arm bearings and housing, not hub bearings, no? The bearing cups are machined into the housing (2) and the arm (1), so you need to look for a better arm or investigate having them somehow renovated. Same problem with the front arms, which is quite a dumb design because taper bearings the move in such a small arc will always wear that way. Chris, this what we were discussing a few months ago with regard to that European chap who rebuilds parts, including rear arms, and you had linked to a few months back. I think he was suggesting that he doesn't repair arms with that sort of wear. The wheel hub bearings are simple to replace by comparison as the cup is removable.

  3. #103
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Yes the outer race on the inner axle bearing is replaceable but the torsion bar ends bearings are machined from one piece I showed someone here at club and the comment was stupid design : )
    worse the case bearings on the torsion bar end are really shite but possibly switching them over would move the wear around to the other side of the bearing, however if I can source a decent set than that's the go.
    It does make me wonder how many more out there are completely cactus given what I have discovered.

  4. #104
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,326

    Default

    You find the same wear pattern in the rear arms of CX,BX,XM,Xantia,C5 and also in older Jaguars with IRS. In all of those cars, you can replace the cups though. Not so with the DS. I'd say a lot of owners are oblivious to it and happier simply not knowing. On the front arms, there are centre marks from the original machining operations and I think also for the rear arms. They might be of some help if reworking them.

  5. #105
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    I'm stuffed if I know how one would shave them David I think given the price of overhauled ones this may be something I will have to live with! Bit of grease won't hurt though. The car had a tow bar fitted now removed so might have copped extra strain there for some period. There's always something lurking with a D!

  6. #106
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,326

    Default

    Good used is the preferred way I'd think, but that may not be so easy and you need to dismantle to be sure the spares you obtain are not junk. I think you'd have to either build the surfaces up, grind them and harden or grind a seat for a cone/cup. Spraying would be fairly complicated:
    The reclamation of crankshafts by Arcspraying | Metallisation
    Any seat would want a radius in the corner and there may not be enough metal in the housing for that. Obviously, the parts were designed to have the tapered portion contribute to their strength, so does cutting a seat compromise this in anyway? You also have to remember that the rear arm bearing position determines the rear track. At the front, you have the castor angle affected by the bearing dimensions and it supposedly has washer of different thicknesses to set this.
    Last edited by David S; 28th July 2014 at 11:26 PM.

  7. #107
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    I think arc spraying in these bearings wouldn't work as the volume required to be filled could excessive, given the method is recommended for crankshafts and it states if past tolerance forget it. I am going to swap the top ends over and translate the wear to the other top sides of the bearing, if I can't find replacements, finding whole arms is the next option as you suggest. But I reckon most will be not to far off wear wise as the ones I have!

  8. #108
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    We'll I plod along a bit further, discovered the spacers on the rockers we're put back on wrongly the four I was missing on the inlet arms were on the exhaust. The guys at engine place had put them on wrongly. Gave them the pics and everything, meanwhile I stalled on rebuild waiting for new spacers. Put it all back together myself so it was done 'properly'. What has me worried is if they put the valves in correctly, I may pull it apart again to check. The engine guys put the connecting rods on back the front too so an afternoon spent flipping them over. Should have it all back together, motor gearbox brakes soon. Still cleaning out the floor pan for rust treatment and re spray, if anyone has a bootlid in half decent condition I am keen to see if you'll unload it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  

  9. #109
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Just putting the dizzie drive back on, can't figure out if the 'bolts' three that attach it to block are studs or bolts? There is supposed to be two long ones and a shorty M7 on bottom. No actual reference in 648 parts book, and when I tore it to bits didn't take notice although I think there must have been studs... Herr Zinc used bolts but I am just not sure. Any advice welcome as usual!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg   74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  

  10. #110
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Screws are bolts in manual!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  
    GreenBlood likes this.

  11. #111
    Fellow Frogger! renault12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Looking fantastic! Love the detailing you've done on the engine.. It'll look like brand new when you come to put it all back together!

  12. #112
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Nearly every bloody thing on it is new now Toby so it should behave like a new motor! I've got a French km speedo set at 00000 so that will be good watching it tick over, if it'll work haha!...
    renault12 likes this.

  13. #113
    Fellow Frogger! renault12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Nearly every bloody thing on it is new now Toby so it should behave like a new motor! I've got a French km speedo set at 00000 so that will be good watching it tick over, if it'll work haha!...
    You must be so excited.. And approaching bankruptcy! Seriously though, great work.. It's an inspiration to see what you're achieving!

  14. #114
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Don't mention the bank account thank you Toby, it has no meaning anymore.
    stuck the clutch back on this arvo, moved the engine to the floor as it was giving the bench a rather strained look!
    oh look the photo that started out right way up loaded landscape.. (Again). Must be an Apple thing.
    we don't have any chep pallets here if anyone is looking, it was painted to look like one...
    I should get sponsorship bucks from Hylomar too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  

  15. #115
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    went a bit further today, had to figure out which studs to use amongst the plethora of new ones that came with an order from Citroen Andre! I have dry fitted the waterpumo housing but given I don't trust this am contemplating whacking on some hylomar on bothe housing and pump gaskets. They're all new, pump, housing and head but still. Last time I fitted a water pump I went with sealant on seals, worked fine. Any comments to allay concerns, opinions greatly appreciated!74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 20th August 2014 at 08:33 PM.

  16. #116
    Fellow Frogger! renault12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Use sealant.. They're hard to get to seal at the best of times!

    I used loctite hardening aviation grade cement and it sealed fine..

  17. #117
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Thanks Tobes, hardening seal though around there? A diesel mechanic suggested silicone yesterday.

  18. #118
    Fellow Frogger! renault12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Yeah, it's like a 'glue' if you will.. Worked well on mine. It had blue RTV silicone on it when I removed it (because it was leaking) and I found traces of silicone throughout the cooking system.. So I'm not a huge fan.

    I'm sure silicone would work though; the hardening gasket sealant was recommended for paper gaskets between solid items (eg. Housing to head or pump/housing). The instructions suggested the non-hardening type was used for rubber gaskets.

    Careful use of silicone should be ok too though..!

    Mnm did his recently; not sure what he used?

  19. #119
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    went the Permatex no3 brown stuff, used it before gearbox back on tomorrow.
    Those crazy people at Franzose threw in 5L of LHM and a three inch Norev Traction with my order, personally I'd like a years supply of the car jelly babies they send out. I bet they're laced with LHM and ground up chevrons to keep one addicted...
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 21st August 2014 at 11:41 PM.

  20. #120
    Fellow Frogger! renault12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    went the Permatex no3 brown stuff, used it before gearbox back on tomorrow.
    Nice work.. That's the stuff I was talking about. Should do the job and looks nice and clean too!

  21. #121
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    I think I might introduce this to a battery very shortly, some fuel, oil and coolant and see what happens!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 25th August 2014 at 08:12 PM.
    UFO, renault12 and misterd like this.

  22. #122
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    7,776

    Icon12

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    I think I might introduce this to a battery very shortly, some fuel, oil and coolant and see what happens!
    Looks like a real one, very nice work

    It's going to look spectacular in the car, how good to know it's all been refreshed

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  23. #123
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Aw bugger its actually 1/72nd scale.

  24. #124
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ici.
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    crank started it on Friday, I posted issues with big O ring for oil filter in Citroen forum querying where the bloody thing actually goes, Matthew reckons it sits in the strainer holder, the base of the assembly with the scoop and alignment arrow on it, but I am not sure, anyway I turned the motor over to get some oil up and around and it 'sounded' good.
    It was suggested to me to do this with jumper leads so the load isn't so heavy, anyway I did it straight from charged battery with 18V measured and used the new starter switch, handy to have when tinkering.

    if someone can confirm the correct position of O ring in filter assembly appreciated.

  25. #125
    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,393

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    if someone can confirm the correct position of O ring in filter assembly appreciated.
    Spare Parts #648 shows position of both O Rings

    74 DSpecial Renewal-ds-oil-filter-1_871x800.jpg74 DSpecial Renewal-ds-oil-filter-2_890x800.jpg74 DSpecial Renewal-ds-oil-filter_641x800.jpg
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

Page 5 of 13 First 123456789 ... Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •