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  1. #51
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    74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpgPulled the driveshaft and pistons out this arvo, big end bearings in a sad state, couldn 't budge the sleeves one iota, gave them a touch up with a piece of wood and rubber mallet to no avail, any tricks to this I'm stumped?
    Sent a steering wheel off to Germany to be repadded. Got it through Australia Post no problems.
    A bit each day keeps it rolling along.

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    Last edited by forumnoreason; 1st November 2013 at 07:15 AM.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
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    Sent a steering wheel off to Germany to be repadded. Got it through Australia Post no problems.
    Nice work.. It's coming along well!

    Can I ask where you sent the wheel? Der Franzose..?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
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ID:	49371Pulled the driveshaft and pistons out this arvo, big end bearings in a sad state, couldn 't budge the sleeves one iota, gave them a touch up with a piece of wood and rubber mallet to no avail, any tricks to this I'm stumped?
    Sent a steering wheel off to Germany to be repadded. Got it through Australia Post no problems.
    A bit each day keeps it rolling along.
    Oh, sweet Jesus. That's painful. You didn't mention a bottom end knock, so at least there's that.
    badabec likes this.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  4. #54
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    Franzose because of price, plus express post was $110, 2.6kg.
    It makes me wonder how many shagged motors must be ought there, I expect to see a big difference in performance when its fired up again!

  5. #55
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    Got info back on head today, not so good. Hairline cracks between valve spaces, two people saying they wouldn't weld it. It was suggested however by a very knowledgeable member in the car club that given theres a good distance between the cracks and the jacket.
    it mightn't be so bad. I am interested in any opinions as usual ! But I think another head might be the go. Check out the photos, looks like the crankshaft might be getting some grinding too : (
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg   74 DSpecial Renewal-image.jpg  
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 11th November 2013 at 08:05 PM.

  6. #56
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    Well I'm on the look out for a cylinder head so if anyone has one they are willing to offload....

    I'm fielding calls!

    Cheers

    Steven
    or PM me!

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Got info back on head today, not so good. Hairline cracks between valve spaces, two people saying they wouldn't weld it. It was suggested however by a very knowledgeable member in the car club that given theres a good distance between the cracks and the jacket.
    it mightn't be so bad. I am interested in any opinions as usual ! But I think another head might be the go. Check out the photos, looks like the crankshaft might be getting some grinding too : (
    i would not risk it after going this far. saving costs here may not be the best option. thats only my opinion.

  8. #58
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    Well I've tracked down a NOS head which is pretty bloody good, Thanks Mr Senn for tips!

    Sent block off as I couldn't shift the sleeves, made up a puller but the plate metal on the top of the puller was 10-12mm thick and it started to bend under the pressure so I went enough of this, I'll wreck it if I keep going so off to the specialists. I was amazed how stuck they were, I have heard people weld them out, use dry ice etc. Better let someone else who knows what they're doing with the right equipment deal with it I say.

    I'm squirelling parts at the moment, got the crankshaft back and linished, standard bearings to be replaced.

    I had problems with Franzose who initially said they could do steering wheel, then i got an email saying they wouldn't be able to send due to mailing restrictions, I wasn't taking no for an answer given they had green lighted it in the first place and I'd already sent it and it had been received, but I'd be double checking with them if anyone is thinking of doing the same, had me a bit shirty there for a moment.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 28th November 2013 at 02:47 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post

    I had problems with Franzose who initially said they could do steering wheel, then i got an email saying they wouldn't be able to send due to mailing restrictions, I wasn't taking no for an answer given they had green lighted it in the first place and I'd already sent it and it had been received, but I'd be double checking with them if anyone is thinking of doing the same, had me a bit shirty there for a moment.
    I have a reco steering wheel surplus to requirements if you continue to have problems with Franzose.

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

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  10. #60
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    Thanks Chris, they backed off and were very civilized about the mistake and sent it, just wondering what Australia Post has done with it now, funny how it can go across the world in 4 days and then take 3 weeks at this end to show up....

    Someone else might be needing a steering wheel though. Hold on I have to get mine first!

  11. #61
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    Awhile since posting! Been sandblasting, cleaning accumulating parts, painting, I joked to someone I was at the bottom of the mountain and am now busy tunnelling!
    Yes once I get past the bend and back to putting things back together I'll be happier.
    Painted the completely cleaned block, bought a tin of 2 pack colour AC 502. Got everything prepped, engine brackets, block, camshaft pulley, and went to mix paint and whammo. This does't look right, it's too greyish/dark. F#@* it I thought, everyone knows Citroen had a myriad of green. So I mixed it up and painted. I went down to Supercheap and picked up some Brunswick green later for $4. Discovered that via-
    https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/ci...lic-parts.html

    I concur with Chris, Fento and DS that Brunswick Green will do the job convincingly and is a darn sight cheaper than going to a paint shop and buying expensive ($70 for 250ml) colour that whilst I vaguely recall looked similar to past paintjobs sighted, I would just use the can again as a lesson.
    I had to paint the LHM resevoir because I couldn't get any life back into it from polishing. It was too worn/surface corroded.
    Anyway that's all done, one of the fellas here at our car club welded up some square frame metal to fit to an engine stand so I can plonk it straight on via the old mounts and can rotate it around that frame as well.

    Another thing i'm wondering about is I want to do the driveshafts and swivels in one hit, Put them back together again and just reconnect the whole assembly to the wishbones and gearbox in one hit, the question is DO you need to use the special Citroen tools for the track rod and wishbone, 3505-T and 3312-T respectively or will a ball joint splitter do the trick? I would like to avoid damaging the joints obviously.

    Any advice on doing this folks?

    Cheers Steven


    74 DSpecial Renewal-screen-shot-2014-02-27-4.03.10-pm.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    Another thing i'm wondering about is I want to do the driveshafts and swivels in one hit, Put them back together again and just reconnect the whole assembly to the wishbones and gearbox in one hit, the question is DO you need to use the special Citroen tools for the track rod and wishbone, 3505-T and 3312-T respectively or will a ball joint splitter do the trick? I would like to avoid damaging the joints obviously.

    Any advice on doing this folks?

    Cheers Steven


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    The correct (type) tool makes the job easy, effective and no collateral damage.
    Also prevents damage to the rubber boot. Expensive though.
    I'm guessing the "wishbone" is the leading arm
    The "track rod" the steering rod.

    A lot of people here will advocate the two hammer belting method.
    Sometimes it's effective, sometimes not.

    Ask yourself Steven, would the factory go to the trouble of having a 3rd party make specific tools (when everything else was made by Citroen in house) if they wanted you to use two hammers and hit seven shades of shite out of them.
    Yes, I've used both methods, more than once, and prefer the extractor tool.

    Trust you're also checking your ball joints and suspension leading arm bearings?

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by richo; 28th February 2014 at 02:46 PM.

  13. #63
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    I agree totally Richo, but where do I lay my hands on these tools for a one off effort? I will be checking the ball joints, I've got the correct tools to take the lock nuts off, as for the bearings, I have been given instructions for bearings to drill a hole inject oil into the arm bracket at specific point for bearings. If it leaks then need to replace.
    The question is where do I lay my hands on the two separator tools mentioned to do the job!
    Who's got some to lend? RENT! ha ha.
    Steven

    ps theres a very nice Delpire original poster on ebay at the moment!

    Citroen DS ID Affiche Originale Delpire 770 X 1020 MM Photo A Martin | eBay

  14. #64
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    There's more to the suspension leading arm bearings than meets the mind, unless you consider the vital part they play in providing smooth movement of the front end.
    A devil of a thing to disassemble and then replace bearings. Better condition arms are often the answer.

    Back to the tool. Mine now sold unfortunately.
    Two hammers (gently) is worth a try, as is gentle direct heat and the hammers. Finesse is the order of the day as well as an extra pair of hands, for either the heat, or the second hammer.

    If however you're not successful using 1 hammers or 2 gentle quick heat and hammers, then it's really a job for the tool.
    I've seen the eyes belted so hard they're out of round. That can also happen with too much heat applied slowly.

    That poster is a belter, beautiful, magnifique. Cheap artwork at the price, though others may not see the value, as we do.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    I'm guessing the "wishbone" is the leading arm
    Hope this helps.
    Tut Tut No "leading arms" in a DS. Half wishbones if you must be pedantic.
    A 2CV on the other hand has leading arms.
    Michael
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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelr View Post
    Tut Tut No "leading arms" in a DS. Half wishbones if you must be pedantic.
    A 2CV on the other hand has leading arms.
    The front arms are leading arm, the wheel bearing centre and wheel movement is forward of the suspension pivot.
    On an SM they are trailing arm.

    I'll respond no further.
    Last edited by richo; 28th February 2014 at 07:16 PM.

  17. #67
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    They are described as wishbones in 814-2 chaps

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    Lets not get our bras in a twist this is my thread!
    Bras-arms get it
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 28th February 2014 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Jai drole plus!

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    The front arms are leading arm, the wheel bearing centre and wheel movement is forward of the suspension pivot.
    On an SM they are trailing arm.

    I'll respond no further.
    Oops sorry, no offence meant Richo. Maybe just a difference in terminology. I have always taken leading arms to be the reverse version of trailing arms, like the front of a 2CV.

    No further discussion is probably best
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

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    I want to talk about this gad damn it!
    thanks for the advice Richo I think I have found one of the tools, which later I will lend anyone who wants to rip out their swivels without mangling the pins, this is the safe way to go, given I have a penchance for going like a bull at a gate at things that frustrate the anti logic demon in me!
    And remember if you can't say Wilmonda just say Facom!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 28th February 2014 at 10:46 PM.

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    Whilst sanblasting and prepping parts for some brown paint yesterday, (today they're going to cop it!) I found this interesting little feature running through the side and well along the backing/housing plate for the main accumulator/regulator. Which a lotta shakin going on has caused over 30 years...
    Welded up now should be good for a long time, I noticed on citroen-restoration.co.uk Andy Todd (hello Andy if you ever google yourself!) that he has used neoprene between block and housing plate, to knock some vibration out, I'll have to get onto him to see how effective it is. Anyhow the crack I found had me thinking how many others are in the same condition from holding onto something holding onto things with pressures over 140kg/cm2.-Citroën ID/DS Hydraulic accumulator

    74 DSpecial Renewal-img_3105.jpg


  22. #72
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    I'm about to put the boots on driveshafts, spent all day degreasing the engine bay, it is still a long way from being ready to paint, as I have to tackle the surface rust, the bloody thing is smothered in crap, also noticed the muffler has corroded and sheared right through on one of the tailpipe connections, (bloody hell)... I popped the tripods off in a press and cleaned them up and they're pretty good, now how much grease and what type should I use and is it suitable to use rubber strips under the ligarex on the boots?
    Also noticed this weld which I think Denton at European told me once they'd reinforced the H frame since there are two adjacent plates forward of the cross member holding the torsion bar that look like they've been put in at a later time.
    74 DSpecial Renewal-img_3159.jpg

  23. #73
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    I have been getting some time in down at the shed here and managed to get the boots back on the driveshafts, some old welding rods helped squeeze the tripode housing boots on, my hands still hurt from forcing the beggars on! Yes I did use some grease as well. The tripods were in good condition but now I can't find my ligarex tool so that is still to be done.
    Managed to get the disks off too with the aid of a rattle gun, the nuts on the diff housings wouldn't budge, and I am convinced rattle guns are the best thing ever invented!
    Along with flag pliers!
    The disks and pads were all within the manual specs for wear and indeed are virtually new in many respects, I'm going to chuck the handbrake pads as they are shagged however.
    Cleaning up everything still, before I get this motor back together.
    I'm pretty sure from reading I need 200g grease either end for the driveshafts.
    Onwards and Acrosswards.
    PS I have posted some manuals for sale from our club here in the parts section, I think they're reasonably priced, club will receive the money, check them out if you are in need!
    74 DSpecial Renewal-img_3161.jpg74 DSpecial Renewal-img_3175.jpg

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    I have been getting some time in down at the shed here and managed to get the boots back on the driveshafts, some old welding rods helped squeeze the tripode housing boots on, my hands still hurt from forcing the beggars on! Yes I did use some grease as well. The tripods were in good condition but now I can't find my ligarex tool so that is still to be done.

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    Why didn't you remove the circlip that is behind the Triaxe Journals and press the journal carrier off? It is press fit splined
    Can be done with access to a press. Then the new Triaxe boot just slides on without the need to stretch it, and risk damaging it!!
    Cheers Gerry

  25. #75
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    Thats funny Gerry, the triaxes were pressed off, otherwise it would have been IMPOSSIBLE to get the boots on, no they were just a mighty tight fit. Thanks for pondering it though! : )
    Found my el cheapo Chrysler 'ligarex' tool, it was buried exactly where I left it under a pile of stuff on the front passenger seat, the photos I've been taking along the way proved it was there.
    It really helps to be regularly working on the car so you don't start wondering what goes where and why too. Fortunately I get Mondays Fridays and Sundays to indulge in the tasks, a mate in Qld who is D crazy has been insisting I reinforce the H frame but it has been done in the past, front sides and front and back of torsion bar frame, about 4mm thick plate welded, just need to clean off more crap to see full condition of welds. So fun tomorrow.
    Cheers
    Steven
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 3rd April 2014 at 11:23 PM.

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