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  1. #101
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    Starting to fill in the hole, first I repaired the bits it sits on on the right hand side. This part took a while to make, it's three pieces welded together to get the curved step at the front. The recess where the support for the front connects was done with a hammer and dolly. Next will be the similar part on the other side around the battery box.

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    The piece on angle is temporary, there to hold it all straight while it is unsupported.

  2. #102
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    For some reason I could post the pictures, here they are
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1455423335954.jpg   Christian's R10S-1455423347922.jpg   Christian's R10S-1455423357305.jpg  
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  3. #103
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    Progress has been slow, busy with travel for work and work around the house. I was attempting to get it ready for paint before mid August as I have a little one on the way, not sure I'll make my deadline.

    First part, missing panel under the passengers floor. The panel that was in here was not the correct one, no idea what it was from and the welds were terrible, so I made a new one.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0028.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0029.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0030.jpg

    Next part, battery box, the bottom was pretty rusty and full of holes, the bottom edge of the vertical parts not much better so I trimmed it back and made a new bottom and side bits. Not the correct pattern but I would have needed to make a die to put the correct pattern back in. It's made from 1.2mm steel so it's plenty strong enough.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0031.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0032.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0033.jpg

    Moving back to the front, fixed up the front lip under the drivers side blinker and made the part of the floor around the battery box. It's four pieces folded and welded to get the correct shape. Just need to grind down the welds.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0037.jpg

    I can see the end of the metal work on the body, a small amount to do on the panels to follow.
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  4. #104
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    Congratulations on both fronts.
    Coming along nicely.
    I still need to pop over and pick up those shocks some time too!
    KB
    KB


  5. #105
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    And now we have a floor. Had trouble getting the oil canning to stop. Probably should have put a lot more folds in it as it feels a little flimsy. I wouldn't stand on it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1460929027417.jpg  

  6. #106
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    You deserve a medal for persistence, let alone for skill and application!
    JohnW

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  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    And now we have a floor. Had trouble getting the oil canning to stop. Probably should have put a lot more folds in it as it feels a little flimsy. I wouldn't stand on it.
    Some excellent work going on here. Enjoying following the restoration.

    Paul Tomlinson
    R1135 Gordini 1968.
    Jaguar XJ-C V12 1975.
    Alpine GTA 1988
    Jaguar X Type 2002.

  8. #108
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    There was a little rust around the drivers side headlight, turned out to be worse then originally thought. Had to take the headlight surround out, lots of spot welds, maybe they thought it should be a structural element. I real pain in the &^@# to get out, not for the faint hearted.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0041.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0042.jpg


    Now that it's out, fix it. Had to pretty much replace one end. I also plugged up all the spot weld holes as I was going to have to use different spots to put it back in due to drilling the spot welds out of the mating part.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0043.jpg

    And back in again, I'm pretty sure it's in the correct place, checked the measurements from the other side.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0045.jpg

    The passengers side didn't need to come out, I managed to repair it in place as it was no where near as bad.

    Moving right along, a small rust hole in the passenger side A pillar, cut a small part out, not good underneath, cut a bit more out, rinse repeat. As you can see had to cut out a good side chunk. The underlying structure was rusted, had to weld up some holes, all good now. It's repaired now, forgot to take a photo, next time.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0046.jpg
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  9. #109
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    Nice work Chris,
    Besides the frustration that goes with this sort of repair, I m sure you also feel a great sense of achievement in what you are doing.
    Your blogs/threads make interesting reading.
    Keep up the good work
    Dano

  10. #110
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    It's hard to believe but I'm at the end of the major metal work on the body.

    Passengers side A pillar is done, rear of the drivers side done.

    Small repair at the top of the rear windows, nothing really to see there.

    Looking at putting some small panels back on the front, one looks like it was attacked with a slide hammer and then bogged, I hammered it back out. Comparing it to the other side, they are different shapes, is this normal or is it from a different car? It's the bottom edge that's different.

    Almost ready to give mecaparts a whole lot of money for suspension rubbers and brake parts. Are the mecaparts big brake upgrades worth it?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1462684755807.jpg   Christian's R10S-1462684767385.jpg   Christian's R10S-1462684929039.jpg  
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  11. #111
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    See my post #106 of 17 April!!

    I've no idea whether the big brake kits are worth it - really depends what you are going to do with the car. The standard brakes are pretty good, and well up to the adhesion limits of the standard tyres!

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #112
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    Step one, I should be able to straighten the bottom if needed
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1462692109157.jpg  

  13. #113
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    I'm going to try to replicate BrettR's setup which uses their big rear kit, but uses different means for the front.
    John, don't forget Christian is going to have the Clio engine installed, so won't be using std components or tyres.

    KB
    KB


  14. #114
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    I have a set of gen 3 mr2 brakes I got cheap to see if I could make it work, it would increase the unsprung weight by a bit so may not be worth it. I'll have to weigh the various parts to make a comparison.

  15. #115
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    Hi Christian,
    If you are buying a lot from Meca Parts, break down into Euro600.00 (max) quantities orders, as they are reluctant to break them down for you. It may cost more on post but it saves a wack on paper costs and import duties, as well as time.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  16. #116
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    Hi, Regarding your front panels, they are correct i.e. they are not symmetrical, my car was made in the later part of 1969 and is undamaged (at least in this area) and is the same as you have pictured. I have yet to restart on restoring mine, fortunately it has been garaged since I took it off the road in 1984 and does not have too many rust issues.
    Last edited by 1OwneR 10; 9th May 2016 at 09:10 PM. Reason: typo
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  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1OwneR 10 View Post
    Hi, Regarding your front panels, they are correct i.e. they are not symmetrical, my car was made in the later part of 1969 and is undamaged (at least in this area) and is the same as you have pictured. I have yet to restart on restoring mine, fortunately it has been garaged since I took it off the road in 1984 and does not have too many rust issues.
    They aren't or weren't exactly precision items then.

    Another 10 to come out of storage it seems. Great news....
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    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1OwneR 10 View Post
    Hi, Regarding your front panels, they are correct i.e. they are not symmetrical, my car was made in the later part of 1969 and is undamaged (at least in this area) and is the same as you have pictured. I have yet to restart on restoring mine, fortunately it has been garaged since I took it off the road in 1984 and does not have too many rust issues.
    Thanks, I was trying to work it out from pictures on the interweb. It didn't look like either one had been off the car.

  19. #119
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    Another 10 to come out of storage it seems. Great news....[/QUOTE]

    Unfortunately John you were right on the money,it is the storage of this other stuff I am working on before starting on the car. I will become more involved and start a restoration thread then.
    Phillip.Christian's R10S-dscf1729.jpg
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  20. #120
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    Work has continued on the passengers side front guard, this is the worst one. The part around the head light was repaired previously, not very well. The top back corner had also been repaired, not close enough to the correct shape. The front part took some effort. Had to reattach the small panels at the front to check alignment.

    I think I'll be replacing all the panel bolts and u nuts to something modern. The old ones are kind of annoying.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1463951363904.jpg   Christian's R10S-1463951377694.jpg   Christian's R10S-1463951391945.jpg   Christian's R10S-1463951406684.jpg  

  21. #121
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    Nothing super exciting has happened. after test fitting the guards I decided I hated the stock u nuts and bolts. I got some M6 u nuts and modern body bolts, much better.

    I'm getting ready to paint the bottom, need a good two days of good weather and I'm still collecting paint, it'll be epoxy primer on the replaced section, stone guard and then a grey top coat.

    I'm the meantime I'm cleaned up and greased the steering rack and boxed the upper A arms with 2mm plate. I don't intend on this being a grandpa spec car and my brakes are going to add a little weight. Next will be a stronger rack mount.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1466370528696.jpg   Christian's R10S-1466370549737.jpg  
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  22. #122
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    This week I made a rack stiffening bracket. I made the two ends, bolted then in and then tacked the middle part in place. The car has no suspension parts on it so there was access.

    Keeping with the steering them I went in search of a collapsible column at pick a part in Dapto. The one in the picture is from an ef falcon. It's at it's fully extended length. There is a u joint for the bottom which is a 36 spline, pretty common. Pity the Renault rack is 22 tooth. If I can find a 36 to 22 u joint or a 36 to rag joint it'll work. Unfortunately you can't just weld these up yourself. I'll have to make the bracket to hold the top, I'll attach it to the firewall unlike the original that is attached to the dash.

    The downside of this column is I won't be able to use a steering quickener as I won't be able to cut out a long enough section. That and the ugly ford key for the ignition barrel, but if I don't need a steering lock I don't have to use it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1466838903477.jpg   Christian's R10S-1466838918000.jpg   Christian's R10S-1466839352648.jpg  
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  23. #123
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    And for my next trick watch me cut this radiator in half. The question is do I want a 540x200x56 core, or one that's 112mm thick. There is enough to cut it and stick the two parts together. Or I get two attempts, or a spare. It only cost $160, it's for a V6 commodore.

    What are the dimensions of the R8G or A110 radiators?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1467012079149.jpg  

  24. #124
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    Core is 430 mm wide by 290 mm high, 380 mm high if you add the tanks, plus or minus a few mm. The later ones have three rows of tubes, perhaps 45 mm thick or a wee bit more. Just measured my spare up on a shelf.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Core is 430 mm wide by 290 mm high, 380 mm high if you add the tanks, plus or minus a few mm. The later ones have three rows of tubes, perhaps 45 mm thick or a wee bit more. Just measured my spare up on a shelf.
    How does that not scrape on the ground, does it hang out the bottom or is it mounted on an angle? I'm going to mount mine vertically and make a fish mouth panel for the spare tyre cover.

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