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Thread: Christian's R10S

  1. #76
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    I have zero experience with the duel shock rear end, so take this with a grain of salt, but I agree with Pete. I would have thought a lighter set up (single shock rear) would be preferable with high quality shocks used, keeping in mind many people like to shift the tank and radiator up front to even up the weight distribution of these little beasts.

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    cheers,

    John

  2. #77
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    Work has begun in ernest now. Besides a stuck bolt or two its mostly stripped down to the shell ready to go for blasting. Before sending it away I've decided to fix a few parts like the crack on the inside of the rear passengers wheel well. I think this was caused by the dual shock rear end it had in it. It's a good thing I like welding in challenging locations, half was done from the outside, the other half from the inside as the strengthening plate on the outside was over the crack.

    I've found a few dodgy rust repairs, you know the ones you do to just get it through rego, nice hole in the floor near the pedals. I'll wait for it to be blasted before fixing this one so I know how far to cut it back.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0024.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0025.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0027.jpg
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  3. #78
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    This car had the wrong tail lights fitted so before I got rid of the old body I cut the tail light sections out. I've now welded them in, for your viewing pleasure there are before and after photos.

    I then spent some time straightening the pinch weld along the bottom of the sills. Had this car been paddock bashed, none of it was straight. In my straightening I noticed the panel under the passenger side foot well looked like it was in upside down with some very dodgy looking welds. Cut the welds and about a cup of rust flake fell out. So much for a rust free car. There are two holes in the chassis rail, repairable but I'll wait for it to be blasted before repairing and of it so I can see how far to cut it back.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1439206752412.jpg   Christian's R10S-1439206768510.jpg   Christian's R10S-1439207015160.jpg  

  4. #79
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    No actual work has been done on the 10, but I have extracted the potential engine from the donor, K4M from a 2003 Clio 2. It'll need a timing belt. It was a horrible job getting it out, rest of the Clio will be getting parted out, stand by for details.

    It looks like the bell housing will fit the block without too much modification, one problem, the flywheel doesn't fit in the bell housing so a different fly wheel is in order, the thread I found about someone else doing this into a A110 mentions an R18 flywheel. Does any one know if they have the timing teeth? Just putting a trigger wheel on the crank pulley will be problematic as it's not keyed to my knowledge. Can't key the crank without taking it out.

    The K4M is larger then the 688 that came out, let's hope I don't need to modify the boot lid. Custom manifolds will be in order.

    One thing for sure, I'll end up with a unique vehicle in the end.

    The 10 body gets collect tomorrow for striping.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1440924751875.jpg  
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  5. #80
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    What colour stripes?

    Good luck with it all - always a pleasure to follow a job like this, so thanks for the posts.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  6. #81
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    Should have said stripping, but I'll going with red stripes

  7. #82
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    Well, it's back from stripping and it's not great. It's better then the one I scrapped but it's still going to take a lot of work. I'd like to know who the dodgy $%^&% was that thought you could just rivet a piece of plate in and bog over the top. It had so much body deadener on it you couldn't see the really bad welds, or the rest of the riveted plates. Put it this way, I could have welded it better with a cigarette lighter and a coat hanger. Almost every surface is dented, even parts that aren't on an outside surface. It going to need a complete skim coat of filler once I cut all the rust out. I'll just have to start and one end and work my way along, try not to look at the whole thing, at the moment I just want to walk away.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0080.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0081.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0082.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0084.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0085.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0086.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0087.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0088.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0089.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0090.jpg

  8. #83
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    Ah bugger, that's gotta be disheartening... That's a lot of sheetmetal to replace, might be better to scout for another shell?

    (interesting Hillbrick I see there too. Its a shame the brand is forever tainted by association...)

  9. #84
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    Disheartening for sure but you can do it Christian. Like you said, don't look at it all at once, just work your way through it, bit by bit and before you know it, you'll have one of the best R10's around - with no hidden dodgy repairs either! Dust yourself off and have a crack at it
    cheers,

    John

  10. #85
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    Hi Christian,
    I berated you for taking on the first car, and I know I am right.

    But this is the car you should have bought the first time. You did such a lot of good work the first time, and you only have about 20% of the work to do this time, and with the experience you have now it will wind up being an extremely good R10. They are all similar, even the G I have just finished had some holes just like yours, and it was parked in a shed most of its life.

    Keep on the project.

    Ray
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  11. #86
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    It is disheartening I know Christian, but look at the experience and knowledge you learnt with the first body. More importantly, at least with a blasted body you can see what you have to work on/with. No more surprises.
    All the best mate.
    Dano

  12. #87
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    Come and look at my shell. It will make you feel better.
    KB


  13. #88
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    Hope all the encouraging comments help Christian! Best of luck with it.

    I have one pop-riveted repair from about 1978 on the R8, out of sight, and at that time drenched it with fishoil. Seems no more has appeared but there are those hidden areas. Just yesterday a bit of red paint flaked off inside the spare wheel housing area and, you guessed, bare steel, shiny underneath. No primer, no undercoat. Excellent quality.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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  14. #89
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    Not feeling as bad about it today. Little bit at a time. In this case, the bit is pretty small, but I've started.

    I'm thinking TIGing silicone bronze may work better on the thin non structural sections. I also think I'm in the market for a swage and Jenny.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1444209186317.jpg  

  15. #90
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    Work has been progressing, just haven't posted anything for a while. I am starting to see the end of the rust, but it seems to have taken so long that new parts may be rusting.

    The front part of the floor needed to be replaced, so instead of just putting in lots of little patches I put in one huge one. I also had to fix two hole ridden parts under the drivers seat. Some patching around the edges.

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0175.jpg

    Some rust repairs in the front rails, both sides needed to be done.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0152.jpg


    Everyone knows how much I love A pillars, what looked like a small hole turned into cutting out a largish piece.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0153.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0154.jpg



    I've now moved onto the front, there are so many spot welds in the channel cover you'd think it was structural.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0173.jpg

    Good news, the bottom of the channel isn't rusted, one side lip is, not that hard to fix. Who ever did the previous dodgy repairs on this body had just welded in a 1.5mm sheet in the front, I've cut it out. I may actually need to also cut out the part in front of it as it's pretty hole ridden.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0174.jpg


    Can some one with a good one send me a picture of what it's meant to look like? I probably won't replicate the real one as it'll be too hard to form the panel. I'll get it as close as possible with my bead roller.

  16. #91
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    More.

    I had to take out a badly welded panel which looked like it was in upside down, the rail within was a bit rusted.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0097.jpg

    And fixed.
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0098.jpg

    Here is a front rail inside the wheel well, what looks small always ends up big. The other side wasn't as bad
    Christian's R10S-dsc_0099.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0100.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0101.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0102.jpg
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  17. #92
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I saw somewhere a fellow fabricate the channels by using a wooden buck and a pneumatic hammer attachment on a 4cv panel. He made the floor panel from one sheet radiating out from the drain hole.
    KB


  18. #93
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    I wouldn't say mine was good, but ignoring the fibreglass patch courtesy of the previous owner; is this the detail you are looking for?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-dscn2558.jpg   Christian's R10S-dscn2559.jpg   Christian's R10S-dscn2560.jpg  
    KB


  19. #94
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    Thanks Kevin, that's what I was after. I have an Eastwood bead roller that can form some of the shapes, just not as deep as the original ones.

  20. #95
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    g/day Christian iv'e been put onto a product called paint grip 253 which will seal bare steel and can be painted over, welded and works a treat
    Cheers Peter.
    LIFES TOO SHORT TO DRIVE BORING CARS!

  21. #96
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    Getting there, new panel welded in. It is held at the front with a pile of vice grips underneath. It took a while to get it to fit. It's far from perfect but you're not going to see it, I'll have a carpet of some description in there.

    I think I'll also make a new front piece as it's pretty holey, may be better then a hundred small patches. As I don't intend on putting the spare underneath I can get away with a less complicated pressed pattern.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1454213672423.jpg  
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  22. #97
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    Now for some real pain, making this bit. Couldn't get the rusted one out in one piece.

    Had to remove some of the front to get to the spot welds, one of them needs repairing anyway.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Christian's R10S-1454661867723.jpg   Christian's R10S-1454661878558.jpg   Christian's R10S-1454661888921.jpg  
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  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    Now for some real pain, making this bit. Couldn't get the rusted one out in one piece. Had to remove some of the front to get to the spot welds, one of them needs repairing anyway.
    This is very impressive. Great effort and congrats on keeping going. Way beyond my skill level, let alone perseverance...
    JohnW

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    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  24. #99
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    Great work! Looks like it's going to be a keeper!

  25. #100
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    I agree with Angelo and John! I reckon you're going to have the most solid R10 in the country when you've finished this one. I must say, it makes me appreciate the one I've got having seen how rusty they seem to get. Mine certainly has rust too but only really door corners starting; not A-pillars, boot floor/channel, sills etc. Keep up the great work Christian
    cheers,

    John

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