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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhs2.1 View Post
    Can you advise your US supplier? I'm interested in purchasing one.
    roger
    It was an ebay seller and it would seem he has none left. If you serach on ebay.com, not ebay.com.au you will find more just be searching for "welding 9100" There are a lot in South Korea but brought mine from a seller in the US.

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  2. #52
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    I managed to swing a 3 day weekend but didn't manage as much as I was hoping to do. I finished off the top edge of the rear windscreen, only part left back there is to fix the first side I did. My sheet metal technique has improved and I think I'll cut it off and redo it. Started cleaning out the inside of the car in preparation for flipping it to do the bottom, it took a while to remove the body deadening material, heat gun and a paint scraper. Also took out the rest of the front suspension and the steering rack. One must ask, why did they use so much seam sealer, so annoying to remove. Given the state of the rest of the car I have figured its best to remove it all to make sure there is no rust under it. After I undercoat with epoxy primer I'll put it all back.

    Christian's R10S-img_20140228_160424.jpg

  3. #53
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    Progress, I have redone the first bit I did. Much happier with the result this time. I've even put the bent strip back on the bottom of this side, I'm yet to put it on the other side.

    Christian's R10S-img_20140315_122004.jpg

    Next step, flip the car on its side, not as hard as I though it was going to be, my rotisserie splayed out a little, raising it one end at a time did some minor damage to where the bumper bar supports go though the panels, it'll be a quick fix once its on its own four feet again.

    Strip off the paint, filler and very dodgy stop gap repair to asses the damage to the drivers side sill.
    Christian's R10S-img_20140315_152411.jpg

    This piece of gal sheet was glued to the inside of the big hole and then bogged over. Very dodgy, it's kind of how the A pillar has held together as well. All the drain holes down this side had been bogged closed, why would you do this?
    Christian's R10S-img_20140315_152427.jpg

    I decided to to replace it in one go as I would have trouble keeping the shape right. Now this is how it's meant to be done, cut out a section, form up a piece of sheet to be a good fit, weld it in, grind it back.
    Christian's R10S-img_20140315_162040.jpgChristian's R10S-img_20140315_170957.jpg

    The sill shouldn't take all that long to complete.

    Can anyone tell me where the drain hole is meant to be in the channel under the front boot, mine has two rusted out sections where it has obviously clogged up.
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  4. #54
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    I think I may be coming to the end of the rust, at least what is in the body, I'll have to do a bit of work on the guards and the edge of the front bonnet. The sill is done except for the back corner, may just need a little more grinding. It is definitely going to need a layer of filler to smooth it back out. I'm sure there are people out there that could get a perfect finish and not require and filler, unfortunately I am not that good.

    Christian's R10S-img_20140323_154443.jpg
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  5. #55
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    Christian, your doing a damn good job, so don't be to frustrated about having to use some bog. I had almost the same sill repair as yours on my R8G Replica and it looked great after I Tig welded it, but the first coat of primer soon showed that some bog was going to be the order of the day. Cheers Brian

  6. #56
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    I know that mine is going to need some bog, its very patchwork at the moment. In hindsight completely removing the sill and making a new one would have been better as it was impossible to get out some of the surface rust down in the bottom join. I scrapped it back where I could, used some rust converter and gave it a quick spray with some etch primer. I'll probable give it all a coat of that waxy rust inhibiting stuff when its painted, should be able to spray it in the drain holes. Can't use fish oil in the sill due to the drain holes.

  7. #57
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    Finished the right hand sill weekend just gone.

    Before
    Christian's R10S-img_20140329_151804.jpg

    After
    Christian's R10S-img_20140329_162600.jpg

    I decided to remove some more of the body deadener from the bottom of the car, this is a nasty job. I am yet to find a good way to get it off. Why is there so much of this stuff on there and why is it on parts that could not vibrate. After all it is put on panels to increase their mass so they don't transmit noise, putting it on the folded chassis rails will do nothing other then make it hard to remove from the corners.

    Next up is the front channel, or what is left of it. The plan of attack is to remove the insert from the top, patch and then out the insert back. I've ordered some proper spot weld removing drill bits as I want to reuse the insert panel. I keep finding more rusted parts, some will be hard to fix which means they will have to be brazed as there is no way I'll get a MIG or a TIG in there. If I had known it was this bad I wouldn't have started but now that I have I feel the need to finish and I must be getting to the end of it. Also does anyone have a picture of where the drain hole in the channel goes?
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  8. #58
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    On to the front channel, completely rusted out also some rust in the part that is inside the car. This took a little longer to repair then I had originally thought it would. Still need to put the drain hole in. I think I'll give it a coat of primer, smooth it out a little with some filler so water doesn't collect and give it coat of paint before I put the lid on it.

    The before photos, now it doesn't look that bad on the part inside the cab, but once I removed the paint it wasn't pretty.

    Christian's R10S-img_20140405_134101.jpgChristian's R10S-img_20140408_171142.jpg

    After, the front part is quite angular, I made it first then cut it down to fit. A few of the other pieces were made in place as it was easier to get the shape correct, important for the parts you can see.

    Christian's R10S-img_20140413_150425.jpgChristian's R10S-img_20140413_150445.jpg
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  9. #59
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    The front channel is finished, the lid is yet to be welded on but it is all painted and ready to go. My long weekend plans were cut short due to a crash on a regular training ride on Easter Sunday. I went down and managed to break two ribs and a collar bone so work on the car has been suspended again until I grow some bones back, a mere 6 weeks. At this rate it will never get finished.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    The front channel is finished, the lid is yet to be welded on but it is all painted and ready to go. My long weekend plans were cut short due to a crash on a regular training ride on Easter Sunday. I went down and managed to break two ribs and a collar bone so work on the car has been suspended again until I grow some bones back, a mere 6 weeks. At this rate it will never get finished.
    Hi, just a suggestion, why not instead of welding it up, try fixing a plate over the top and bolted down with the appropriate seam strip sponge underneath which will make it easy to clean all the leaves etc during a routine maintenance? see pic below
    Angelo

    Christian's R10S-photo329.jpg

  11. #61
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    After a large unintended break from work I'm back at it. Juts getting the body ready to be blasted. I found a guy who can come to me and blast it with water and glass, no booth required. Not all that cheap $1350 but the amount of time and swearing it will save me is at least that much. It'll probably help me find some more rust. For that amount I have him for a whole day so should be able to do all the panels, doors, control arms etc. Then I intend on giving it a coat of epoxy primer, then back to panel work. I should be able to spray the bottom straight away.
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  12. #62
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    Well as you may have read other places on the forum I have decided to scrap 12 months worth of work. So here we go for take two. It has not been a wasted 12 months (for which a good chunk of I was injured and couldn't work on the car) as I have learnt a lot about panel work and welding 0.8mm sugar, which is what I swear this car is made out of.

    Here is hoping the new one has a lot less tin worm damage, once I get the guards off I'll know more. It'll be getting blasted as there is a lot of body deadener on it. Once it's stripped and primed if shouldn't take too long to get some paint on it as it's pretty straight. I'll be chucking the interior as the other one had a great interior. Shortly I'l have a pair of new Spax adjustable shocks for a standard rear end up for sale as this one has a Gordini rear end and I'd be silly not to use it, just not looking forward to the $800 for the four new shocks.

    On a side note I would not recommend towing a car trailer down Parramatta Rd late on a Saturday, the lanes are barely wide enough.

    Christian's R10S-p1000037.jpgChristian's R10S-p1000048.jpg

  13. #63
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    Glad it worked out for you. Good luck
    Any day I wake up and don't have to go to work, is a good day
    Every day is a good day

  14. #64
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    Character-building and good practice would be my way of rationalising that pain! Good call I'd say. A good shell is what really matters.

    I can imagine the Parramatta Road drive - a friend of mine took out half a block of verandah posts there about 30 years ago with a truck. He didn't stop, or so he said......

    Best of luck with the next one - the photos say 10S?


    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    Well as you may have read other places on the forum I have decided to scrap 12 months worth of work. So here we go for take two. It has not been a wasted 12 months (for which a good chunk of I was injured and couldn't work on the car) as I have learnt a lot about panel work and welding 0.8mm sugar, which is what I swear this car is made out of.

    Here is hoping the new one has a lot less tin worm damage, once I get the guards off I'll know more. It'll be getting blasted as there is a lot of body deadener on it. Once it's stripped and primed if shouldn't take too long to get some paint on it as it's pretty straight. I'll be chucking the interior as the other one had a great interior. Shortly I'l have a pair of new Spax adjustable shocks for a standard rear end up for sale as this one has a Gordini rear end and I'd be silly not to use it, just not looking forward to the $800 for the four new shocks.

    On a side note I would not recommend towing a car trailer down Parramatta Rd late on a Saturday, the lanes are barely wide enough.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	58234Click image for larger version. 

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    JohnW

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  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Character-building and good practice would be my way of rationalising that pain! Good call I'd say. A good shell is what really matters.

    I can imagine the Parramatta Road drive - a friend of mine took out half a block of verandah posts there about 30 years ago with a truck. He didn't stop, or so he said......

    Best of luck with the next one - the photos say 10S?
    The new body is a R10 but with some R10S bits. The engine is the same as what I pulled out of the R10S, a 688-09. It has the earlier gearbox, the one without the little fin on the bottom, now I have two of the early type and one newer one. Not sure if I'll be able to call the new car when finished at R10S or not, although it's going to be modified somewhat.

  16. #66
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    Well done Christian, apart from the skills you've gained in the last 12 months you already seem to posses at least one vital character trait 'tenacity'. There's merit in changing course if you find a better mousetrap (in this case a better car body) the main thing is you haven't given up on achieving what you set out to do.

    We're all behind you as you know if you need any more parts just holler we'll find you what you need I'm sure.

    Keep us updated please..

  17. #67
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    Nice one Christian.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    The new body is a R10 but with some R10S bits. The engine is the same as what I pulled out of the R10S, a 688-09. It has the earlier gearbox, the one without the little fin on the bottom, now I have two of the early type and one newer one. Not sure if I'll be able to call the new car when finished at R10S or not, although it's going to be modified somewhat.
    As 59 Floride said, shout if you need things. Plenty of us out here.

    The later the gearbox the better AFAIK - stronger sun wheels later on. My R8 has a 10S gearbox. You'd have seen elsewhere, just today I think, that there will be a pair of new Spax adjustable rear shockers for sale soon, or was that you? Those adjustable rear Spaxes were still available new a few months back, as are Konis of course. All at a price....

    Good luck with it.
    JohnW

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    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

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  19. #69
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    It's been a long time coming but work has started again. In the mean time I have moved house, built a new shed and had surgery on my back. I debated starting a new thread as it's technically a different car. So now I have another R10S engine and another 330 gearbox although this one is a group A which I will probably jam some R16TS internals. There are options from here, K4M 1.6 engine from a Clio, 807 if I can find a good one, the 847 I have that's been rebuilt or a R10S engine as I have two of them, decisions, decisions.

    First things first, I'm getting the body ready to go off and get stripped, I called Strip Safe who specialises in stripping cars by blasting them in various ways. I was quoted around $2000 and they will come and collect the car then drop it back off. That price includes a coat of epoxy primer and transport. They have their own rotisseries so they will put it on a dolly to move it. So it'll be a similar price to getting it dipped but this way all the parts you can't get paint on don't get stripped. Both methods have their pros and cons.

    I also now have a dual shock rear end. The issue is I already have some nice shocks for the standard version. What are the advantages of the dual shock version? Is it that much better?

    Some other things I have found, it had a R8G heater core, it's been repaired but it isn't blocked. The front springs have been shortened so I assume the rears have been as well, I'll check when I take them out. I found a Dunc Grey Velodrome handers pass in the glove box, now being a track cyclist myself, or is that ex-track cyclist as I haven't been on a track bike for a year I find this interesting. Who owned this car before Paul?

    Christian's R10S-dsc_0011.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0012.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0013.jpgChristian's R10S-dsc_0014.jpg
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  20. #70
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    The former owner that Paul got this car from was apparently a gun builder of custom bicycle frames as far as I know so was probably a keen cyclist himself I guess. I don't know the history before John K though.
    KB
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    The former owner that Paul got this car from was apparently a gun builder of custom bicycle frames as far as I know so was probably a keen cyclist himself I guess. I don't know the history before John K though.
    KB
    If that is John Kitchen, then yes, a frame builder.

  22. #72
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    Correct
    KB


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    On rear dampers: my suggestion is that the 4 were originally fitted to fast R.E.R. of the era to resist fade on sustained fast rough road work.

    But I think that if you had good modern dampers then a standard 2 springs/dampers set-up would do as well for for road work. By all means fit the 4 springs/dampers rear end for aesthetic reasons but I doubt that there would be any functional advantage.

    However, if you are going to use shorter rear springs, then it's a good idea to have dampers whose stroke is suited to their travel. Your standard ones might thus not suit; that said, though, I have, over the decades, chopped rear springs by one turn on various R.E.R.s & kept original dampers without noticeable ill-effect.

    What I currently use on the rear of my modified R8 & on my 4CVG is 2 Koni "red" R8 Gordini dampers (some fiddling required to fit in the standard mount). Set on the soft end of the spectrum rebound setting (the only adjustment) to avoid the chattering across the road one gets with overly limited control of droop movement, they work well with good control & without fade in my beasties' use (mostly on semi-even "C" roads & briskly driven).

    cheers! Peter
    Last edited by 4cvg; 13th July 2015 at 07:52 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    The new body is a R10 but with some R10S bits. The engine is the same as what I pulled out of the R10S, a 688-09. It has the earlier gearbox, the one without the little fin on the bottom, now I have two of the early type and one newer one. Not sure if I'll be able to call the new car when finished at R10S or not, although it's going to be modified somewhat.
    Call it what pleases you. (I call my 4CV 'Gordini' & doubt that the sorcerer would disapprove of having his name attached to it.)

    cheers! Peter

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    The former owner that Paul got this car from was apparently a gun builder of custom bicycle frames as far as I know so was probably a keen cyclist himself I guess. I don't know the history before John K though.
    KB
    John K still makes racing frames. He has also just completed 10 Penny Farthings (5 being for the 200 Yr Bathurst celebrations). Besides being a frame/bike builder he is also an engineer and re-engineers some great stuff.
    The R10 in question was fitted with my R8G engine for a while hence the air intake on the radiator panel.
    Good to see the car coming along, John will be pleased, I'll keep him informed on your progress.

    Paul Tomlinson
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