Citroen CX2000 Safari- express resto
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Thread: Citroen CX2000 Safari- express resto

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Default Citroen CX2000 Safari- express resto

    Hey there L's and G's,

    It's come time to get the big 'ol wagon on the road for a bit of a camping roadtrip......what a great car for the purpose don't you think!

    OK the plan is to get going by November which is a bit of a stretch but I'll see how I go. I have time to work on the project nearly every day.

    Yesterday I decided would be day 1, even though I had walked around the car and scratched my head for countless days before. OK, so up to date I've taken all loose items out of the car and am working from the inside out back to front starting with a bit of rust treatment.

    The door seals are totally squashed and leave a gap for water to enter every time it rains. I have had it in storage, however in the past it has gotten wet and the foam under the carpets has been like a wet sponge holding water against raw metal with a thin layer of topcoat over(no primer inside!?). This has caused the paint to bubble and rust develop.... I don't know how long this has been happening, luckily so far it is treatable.

    I will have to get on the road in 2 weeks or thereabouts so don't expect miracles! Just a heads up that I'm not prepping to lay down a topcoat, that will be for later. Such work requires many, many hours and expertise that I do not have. The objective is to stabilise the metal from corrosion and provide for panel protection that will last until the full restoration at a later date.

    The background: I bought the big 'ol girl a couple of years ago to store for later restoration. At this point the whole area under the roofline and behind the A-pillars had been totally stripped, sandblasted, pulled, filed and then work stopped, a thin layer of primer was sprayed and project was scrapped. She was advertised for sale here for a while but no takers until I came along seeking a parts car for my C-matic wagon. As soon as I started down the street on my way back from Sydney to Brisbane I knew that this was not going to be a parts car. I felt incredibly confident mon cheri would make the journey and when I reached my destination I felt more refreshed than in any other (car) I've taken.......there have been many! So madam has been mostly undercover and sometimes undertarp since and has been used occasionally. Oh and she was born 1976 as a CX2000 Super and has the Safari configuration (5-seater). 2L engine and DIRAVI steering, no air-conditioning, power front windows.

    CX resto 1 by andxeron, on Flickr

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    DAY 1:

    The carpet and foam has been drying out in the sun for a couple of days so time to start on the inside surface rust.
    Before any treatment:

    CX resto 2 by andxeron, on Flickr

    CX resto 3 by andxeron, on Flickr

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Down to business with the wire brush attachment on drill after scrape with broad flat screwdriver and a bit more with a 50mm paint scraper which removed more than I thought it would.

    CX resto 4 by andxeron, on Flickr

    I was quite happy with this and just hope there is nothing lurking on the inner mudguards behind that vinyl. I don't want to take that off now so hope it's all good under there. I brushed and wiped out all the dust plus scraped and vacuumed in all those holes ready now for some rust converter:

    CX resto 5 by andxeron, on Flickr

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    A closer view:

    CX resto 6 by andxeron, on Flickr

    There is still rust there and I did want to remove it all completely but was assured that this was not necessary and the rust converter would eat it all up.... so I guess I'll see how it goes:

    CX resto 8 by andxeron, on Flickr

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Overall seems to work very well, it's great how the converter acts on the rust instantly:

    CX resto 7 by andxeron, on Flickr

    After an hour or so it appears to have worked very well, rust eliminated or stabilised black in thicker places. The rusty coloured bits in the middle is just where the foam stuck to the glue. I'm not worried about this right now:

    CX resto 9 by andxeron, on Flickr

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Next section, under the rear seat...the foam was very wet here especially on LH side:

    CX resto 10 by andxeron, on Flickr

    And after treatment:

    CX resto 11 by andxeron, on Flickr

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Found only one spot where the rust went all the way through on LH side below seatbelt mount:

    CX resto 12 by andxeron, on Flickr

    No chickens were not living here! And yes they are to scale...Pekin bantams I believe....they have fluffy feathered feet!

    CX resto 13 by andxeron, on Flickr

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Another thing for tomorrow.....don't know why this was not primed before, only two screws holding on(rear quarter panel ventilation):

    Cx resto 15 by andxeron, on Flickr

    Time to tarp up....just in time for a storm. First rain here in many weeks:

    CX resto 14 by andxeron, on Flickr

  9. #9
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    Good job Andy, will follow your project with interest. It's a pretty nice blue.

    Cheers
    John

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    So much better than the wagon I bought from you Maybe I should buy this one as well.

    Remove the black metal inserts below c-pillars (where the back seat backrest clips into). Then you can see inside the box section to inspect the damage there. Mine is all rusted in that area.
    C5 Touring 2008, CX 2400ie Prestige '81 (with dead gerbox), CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic '80, CX2400 Super Familiale C-Matic '79 (to be scrapped very soon) , CX2400i Familiale 5-spd (to be scrapped), GS 1220 Wagon '78 (next project), ID19 '64
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    Fellow Frogger! rmac's Avatar
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    Great to see that so far you've not encountered too many problems Andy. Like the set of pics illustrating what you are doing. Good luck as the work continues.
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  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Cheers Ross, Kimmo and John. I went in today to get some more supplies....rust converter, zinc cold gal, wire brushes, sandpaper, sanding block and stainless/ fiberglass filler. Ready for day 2.... tomorrow I'll do some more hopefully finish treating the floor with rust converter and cold gal day 1 work.

    Must check that section that Kimmo suggests. Down through all the open holes everything looks solid... a little surface rust right at the far back. I bought some fishoil too. I was going to spray all the cavities with this as I go... anyone knows if this works or not?

    The blue on the front is just amazing and I had a professional auto painter drooling over the work. It will make me cringe but it will have to be rubbed back at some stage.

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimmo View Post
    So much better than the wagon I bought from you Maybe I should buy this one as well.

    Remove the black metal inserts below c-pillars (where the back seat backrest clips into). Then you can see inside the box section to inspect the damage there. Mine is all rusted in that area.
    As Kimmo suggested, and all solid there, a bit of gunge in there but no rust. Maybe it has been fish oiled/ wax oiled in there before. The screws have been off before. I had to drill one out as it was rounded badly.
    LH side:

    CX resto 16 by andxeron, on Flickr

    And the right hand side all solid metal here:

    CX resto 17 by andxeron, on Flickr

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    I bought some cheap fish oil spray for these cavities which will leave a tacky residue. I will use it this time around and see how it goes. I may consider using penetrol which dries to a less tacky coating, depends how effectively the fish oil goes in.

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    I reckon you should go to the paint shop and try to match the blue colour. Even with acrylic you can get a match that for me at least would be good enough. And you would need only about 2 litres of ppaint because the large areas are already painted. You would spend an extra day rubbing the primer and rest of your life cutting and polishing the top coat but it could be worth it.
    My CX has got a 2pac roof and the rest is acrylic. People might smirk behind my back but if I'm happy that's all that matters to me
    C5 Touring 2008, CX 2400ie Prestige '81 (with dead gerbox), CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic '80, CX2400 Super Familiale C-Matic '79 (to be scrapped very soon) , CX2400i Familiale 5-spd (to be scrapped), GS 1220 Wagon '78 (next project), ID19 '64
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    Andy, hope your camping trip includes fishing, once you lather that puppy up in fish oil it will stink for ages ;p

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimmo View Post
    I reckon you should go to the paint shop and try to match the blue colour. Even with acrylic you can get a match that for me at least would be good enough. And you would need only about 2 litres of ppaint because the large areas are already painted. You would spend an extra day rubbing the primer and rest of your life cutting and polishing the top coat but it could be worth it.
    My CX has got a 2pac roof and the rest is acrylic. People might smirk behind my back but if I'm happy that's all that matters to me
    That is something I have laboured over for a while Kimmo and the bonnet is a large area, however the roof needs to be sanded back because it is cracked and hazed and part of the old paint job. That would leave an average car sized area when you consider everything from and including the A-pillars back.

    I looked closely at the old photo from a few years back:

    CitroŽn CX Break by mark.mitchell.brown, on Flickr

    You can tell that the front section was repainted separate to the rest of the car as the colour is slightly different. I haven't even shown a close up at how dented and out of shape the bodywork is and I will be having to do quite a bit of work to get that looking ok. I won't sand the front section back until I've prepped the rest of the bodywork and if I'm happy with how straight it is I may consider a matched colour respray......but remember I have only a couple of weeks.

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    Nice work... but do yourself a favour...The sections that you ve treated with rust converter... Give them a check over by rubbing sample area with steel brush(chose an area that had most rust),... If the steel brush doesnt dig up any "brown rust" than the job is well done...BUT if it does then its wise to redo the area (as you ve done already).
    It ll only take you a short time to check and is well worth it in the long run.

    Cheers and good luck with the resto...



    dino

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dino View Post
    Nice work... but do yourself a favour...The sections that you ve treated with rust converter... Give them a check over by rubbing sample area with steel brush(chose an area that had most rust),... If the steel brush doesnt dig up any "brown rust" than the job is well done...BUT if it does then its wise to redo the area (as you ve done already).
    It ll only take you a short time to check and is well worth it in the long run.

    Cheers and good luck with the resto...


    dino
    Cheers Dino, that is some very good advice. I have come across a few spots that need to be brushed back again and retreated. I bought a few more different types of wire brushes including a smaller drill attachment so the work will improve as I go along. I don't want any flaking layers underneath. Sorry about lack of progress, with family visit it's been impossible, so work will start again soon!

  20. #20
    Tadpole
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    Hi Andy

    The Plastic type of wheel that Shane was using on his DS work very well and last a lot longer than the wire wheels, have also found that work very well on a car buff / polisher
    Chris

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    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Cheers Chris, I spent a while looking through Shane's thread again and I can really learn a lot from that. I'm fairly happy with the wire brushes right now. I won't be stripping back so hard that I need anything else I'm guessing. I do want to get down through the rust so I'm anticipating some rebrushing tomorrow.

    Today I finished off a test section to see if I'm happy with the materials I'm using. Pre rust converter:

    CX resto 18 by andxeron, on Flickr

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Rust converter applied:

    CX resto 19 by andxeron, on Flickr

    Later on:

    CX resto 20 by andxeron, on Flickr

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    The last two photos don't show much at this size. Once the rust converter was dry I applied a few light coats of the cold gal. I'm not very sure how this will work which is why I tried this on a section which is small and hidden:

    CX resto 21 by andxeron, on Flickr

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Took the rear seat out this arvo to start the next section. It isn't as bad as it looks but high time I clean it up now.

    CX resto 22 by andxeron, on Flickr

    I'll really grind into this section and see how the wire brush holds up. See the treated section to the right that I did with rust converter a couple of days ago:

    CX resto 23 by andxeron, on Flickr

  25. #25
    Tadpole
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    Hi Andy

    Have learnt from going previous experience to expect the unexpected, I will be heading into the restoration phase myself soon but it will be a long and slow process, as the CX that I have will be going back to a bare body shell. But a few other things have to happen first. Hope all goes well and you can progress a reasonable pace.

    Chris

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