Rx4 engine stopping after short time. Any help to remedy.
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  1. #1
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    Default Rx4 engine stopping after short time. Any help to remedy.

    Hey RX4 Buffs, I have recently replaced the timing belt on my Rx4 and it has been running great, but recently it has been stopping after it had been started around 3 mins. Then after restarting it seems to be OK. My wife said today that it would not rev and seemed to die when giving a bit of throttle, so she turned it off and sat for acouple of mins and restarted it, then seems to be OK. Any one out there had a similar problem and may be able to advise on the problem. I thought it may be dirty filter on the fuel pump in the tank. What do you think?Cheers RT

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    RT Good to hear that you got the belt on.

    Unlikely to be fuel but just as possible as anything else.

    WRT
    but recently it has been stopping after it had been started around 3 mins.
    Is it when you come to hot idle that it cuts out?

    Does it start EASILY imidiately after it cuts out, or do you have to give it a prolonged cranking for it to fire.

    If a hot resart is a issue then hava a look at the CAS sensor and give it a clean. They pick up a bit of crud and loose resolution of the crank trigger signal. You will find it at the top of the GB housing where it meets the block. 10mm ? bolts 2 of. Just clean it for sh!t$ and giggles as it won't do any harm and is good preventive maintenance anyway. While you have it out get your manual and look at the reisitance values and see if it is in spec.

    Let us know if it is a pain to resart when the engine is hot, a dead give way for a poor CAS.

    I GUESS that it could also easily be the electrical cam phaser is playing up too, didn't dislodge the wiring when you did the Cam wheels? Does it have similar powercurve to what the engine produced before the Cam Belt change. Re - reading you post makes me go uummm - phaser. I can't remmber EXACTLY what it looked like but can you see it adv/ retarding the cam when you rev the engine to actuate it.

    List can be long like a coolant Temp sensor. Sensors sensors sensors bloody everywhere. If one is disconnected or failing to send the correct value to the ECU then it's sometimes a pain to find it.

    Changed that LH front CV boot yet?

    Yours aye

    Sandgroper
    93' 205GTi
    'don't force it son - use a bigger hammer'

  3. #3
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    It idles OK but no power and it starts immediately after turning the ignition off and then goes well from then on. It also happens after going round a roundabout or a bend. When going well it has normal power so it looks a little tricky, but I had my suspicion it could be sensors or fuel pump. Thanks for your reply buddy. Cheers RT

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    Wonder if the traction control/ABS system sensor array is up to putt? When the TC kicks in it not only applies the brakes but significantly reduces engine power as well.
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  5. #5
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    Default ??

    Hi,
    My suggestion is to look at the fuel and filter.
    Sounds possible its a small amount of water. Contrary to some opinions by some inventors cars don't like it and the fault can come and go like this.
    jaahn

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    OK, familiar territory for me, costly too, if wrong the wrong avenue.......

    I am not saying yours is or is not the fuel system.

    Check the coils first of all..............I know, sounds silly......mine got a small amount of water around one last year.
    I didn't check this first and went and got a s/h fuel pump, as the diag tool said fuel pressure fault.
    Turned out to be initially, the water around the base of coil on the plug nearest the oil filler cap,#4? If I am right.

    I thought I had fixed the issue then. NOPE, later, one day when the tank was very low, light on, and taking a corner, the car coughed and almost stalled.
    Issue was still fuel pressure related I worked out.
    It's a dud pump/regulator. The one I had bought s/h, had been sitting for a while and was suss I worked out.

    The pump unit is, regulator, pump and a small gauze filter at the base of the unit.
    Neither of the pumps I saw, mine or the replacement one had much dirt in the base filter.
    And, NO, the regulator is not available seperatly, I checked all the fuel injection places here and the ones I could find O/S couldn't get it either. it's a unique design but common brand.

    I recommend, before you do take the pump out of the car, change the in-line filter. Located in front of the right rear wheel. Easy to remove and replace, half hours work for a half competent home mechanic. Made easier, as you can do it just laying under the car as there's enough clearance without jacking the car up.

    WRT the fuel pump if you need to replace it. Whether you get a new pump(not cheap here, but UK might be cheaper) make sure you get a new top nut/ring and seal for the pump unit.
    The sealing ring is under a fair bit of pressure/stress and needs to be replaced or it will take you half an hour to get it right and tight if you reuse the old one.
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