Fuego LHS engine mount
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 23 of 23
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default Fuego LHS engine mount

    Hi Folks,
    Replacing passenger side engine mount, and wondering if I have to remove the mounting plate from the body work to get it out. Everything else is unbolted, and plenty of bark off already, so am looking for the easiest way if there is one.
    Cheers, Papster

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    Yes

    unbolt the mounting plate on the engine bay wall, as that is the only way to get the replacement back in. Raise the engine with a jack under the motor, the mounting plate on the engine itself remain in place.

    Raising it should give enough room to insert the centre bolt, you might need to twist or turn the replacement part to get it to drop onto the engine wall stud bolts and line up with the pad.

    I hope that helps.

    Ken

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Here goes...the long answer.


    For starters there are a whole batch of PS engine mounts in circulation that wont fit.

    They have their steel 'S' plate bent wrong and no amount of swearing or missing bark will help.

    IF you have an old one, compare it first, looking down at the S. If it is not identical, forget it.
    There is a thread somewhere highlighting the problem.

    I have a different approach to ken, because maybe Ken has alloy phobia.

    I undo the box engine plate, remove it, and simply lift the mount off.(thats the simple bit, the harder bit is getting the top nut off....Long socket extensions make a hard job easy.)

    Then I put the mount in place, with bolts just in a few threads, and offer up the engine to it.

    You need to use care with the alloy, but a normal sized spanner and a normal amount of arm strength wont strip them. Locktight the engine side , do up all the nuts and you are done.


    Jo

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Here goes...the long answer.


    For starters there are a whole batch of PS engine mounts in circulation that wont fit.

    They have their steel 'S' plate bent wrong and no amount of swearing or missing bark will help.

    IF you have an old one, compare it first, looking down at the S. If it is not identical, forget it.
    There is a thread somewhere highlighting the problem.

    I have a different approach to ken, because maybe Ken has alloy phobia.

    I undo the box engine plate, remove it, and simply lift the mount off.(thats the simple bit, the harder bit is getting the top nut off....Long socket extensions make a hard job easy.)

    Then I put the mount in place, with bolts just in a few threads, and offer up the engine to it.

    You need to use care with the alloy, but a normal sized spanner and a normal amount of arm strength wont strip them. Locktight the engine side , do up all the nuts and you are done.


    Jo
    No I don't have alloy phobia, did my apprenticeship as an engineer. so well undertand threads and what they are designed to do. Its what you see others have done before you in cross threading and destroying alloy threads, especially where access is limited (i.e. the essential bolts that hold the gearbox mounting plate on the side of the gearbox - horribly butchered by incompetents cross threading them to the point they have no holding power... Still if you are competent and capable of tapping them oversize, that in itself is not a worry either.

    So most times when giving Fuego advice and the bracket doesn't need to be disconnected or disturbed then that is the tried and true method I use - must say I have fitted a lot of replacement engine mounts and never found one I could not fit. I guess you must have got an unusual one!! having a choice of tools helps too a good half inch socket set with different size extensions and a ratchet to work in limited space also helps.

    Getting a bit of bark off the knuckles is right of passage in working on the Fuego...., bugger on cold days of course, hate it then if something slips!!

    Anyway good that you offer an additional way. I used to say on the Fuego, there is only one way to do things "The french mechanic way" i.e. twist and turn the part till it drops in place, even though it looks impossible sometimes..

    The other thing to watch out for if you do jack up the engine is that you have the bonnet open, otherwise you can cause dents in it as the top of engine bolts touch the bonnet.



    Ken

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Thanks guys. Jo, I have already undone the plate on the engine and the mount bolts on the other side but it still seems jammed in very tight. How high can you jack the engine? I tend to be cautious so I don't create other problems, or would I be better off doing it back up and trying Ken's method

    Papster

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Ken, didn't see your second reply, probably due to slow typing on my part. Would it be better now to undo the plate from the body as well and pull the whole thing out?

    Papster

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    The plate has to come out away from the body. Is yours the round style as it is usually moulded onto the plate and moulded onto the steel plate holding the bolt to the engine mount (one piece replacement) - some of the imported turbo's have square mounts and a slightly different setup in mounting.

    The round mounts with rubber moulded to both sides is a bit prone to shearing away from the plate due to its design. Jo should have photo's of the mounts, somewhere. I did also before the Go Daddy crash.

    The square ones are a slightly better design.

    Motor will lift up quite high to give clearance, I usually put a flat block of wood under the sump and jack carefully, prop up safely with wood if you are going to work around the engine.

    Front engine mount needs to be undone if it is intact, and better to make up a replacement similar to Mistarenno's design.

    Ken

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Papster View Post
    Thanks guys. Jo, I have already undone the plate on the engine and the mount bolts on the other side but it still seems jammed in very tight. How high can you jack the engine? I tend to be cautious so I don't create other problems, or would I be better off doing it back up and trying Ken's method

    Papster
    Has the bolt between the rubber mount and the engine plate been undone???

    If so, The engine box/plate should just lift free.

    Jo

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Has the bolt between the rubber mount and the engine plate been undone???

    If so, The engine box/plate should just lift free.

    Jo
    I'm guessing that is the hidden one you can see through a narrow slot in the engine plate. If so it's not undone, and how on earth do you get it undone. The other question is - does it have to be undone to remove the mount?

    Papster

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Didn't get at it until this afternoon, and successfully removed it. Thanks for the information guys, very helpful. There is no way I could have removed the mount without the engine plate coming off. Had to stick it in a vise and hit it with a mallet to get the nut to release.
    You were right Jo, about the shape of the S bend. It looked very close to the old one, but one of the lower bolt holes doesn't quite line up, so I'll have to drill the hole on the body side plate a little larger and hope it all fits ok.
    Pelting down rain here [as usual], so I'll attempt the refit after dinner. Don't feel like wandering over to the shed in all the slush at the moment.

    Cheers, Papster

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Papster View Post
    You were right Jo, about the shape of the S bend. It looked very close to the old one, but one of the lower bolt holes doesn't quite line up, so I'll have to drill the hole on the body side plate a little larger and hope it all fits ok.
    Pelting down rain here [as usual], so I'll attempt the refit after dinner. Don't feel like wandering over to the shed in all the slush at the moment.

    Cheers, Papster
    Damn..
    Fitting it to the body is just the start of your potential woes.
    It can get worse when you bolt the rubber to the plate and try and fit the plate to the motor.

    Give it a go but if it wont fit.....Take your old mount to a urathane fabricator, and show them the new mount as a reference to what a new rubber looks like, and have them build up your old one.
    Jo

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    Just file the upper hole a little more elongated and that might give you enough wriggle room papster to get the lower bolt holes lined up. Might need some filing on the sides of the lower holes.

    Ken

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Do a test fitting to eyeball if its in the ballpark for fit before you do any of that.
    Maybe bolt up the mount and just try and lay it in place.

    You'd be spewn if you filed for 20 minutes and swore for another 40 trying to fit just the base, if the rest was not going to fit.


    Jo

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Do a test fitting to eyeball if its in the ballpark for fit before you do any of that.
    Maybe bolt up the mount and just try and lay it in place.

    You'd be spewn if you filed for 20 minutes and swore for another 40 trying to fit just the base, if the rest was not going to fit.


    Jo
    Its cold weather Jo, as long as you have a good round file you'd hardly work up a sweat and five minutes should be enough if the round file is good and you have a vice to hold the bracket in.

    I'll have to watch out on the next one I fit......seems I've been lucky up till now, never had to drill or file one, but there is always a first time I guess.

    Regards

    Hope it all works out papster. Any chance of pictures ?

    Ken

  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    I'm now much less interested in attacking it tonight, so I'll give it a shot in the morning. Have the day free so I'll give it a dummy run as you suggest Jo, and see how close I can get it.
    Not sure about pics Ken, have a new android phone and not sure how to transfer them yet [could read the manual I guess]
    Thanks heaps anyway guys, I'll report again tomorrow - hopefully with one of these

    Papster

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego View Post
    Hope it all works out papster. Any chance of pictures ?

    Ken
    This should do it.
    The one on the left is the good one, the two right of it are bent wrong.
    Notice the tightness of the 'S' on the old one.

    Whilst its a small difference on the bench, because of the angles involved it it becomes way off on the car.



    Jo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fuego LHS engine mount-mounts.jpg  

  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Took the old and new engine mounts to a mechanic and he measured them both. Main problem is one of the holes drilled in the wrong place, so he re-drilled it. The new one takes up a fraction more space, but he reckons it should fit ok. Been going at it for hours now and can't get it close. Ready to detonate the stupid thing.
    Can't seem to jack the engine to where I need it either. Ken and Jo, what sequence do you use to put it together, considering that I've pulled it all apart?
    Might put a for sale as is sign on it, get some better wet weather gear and ride the motorbike instead.

    Papster

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Papster View Post
    Took the old and new engine mounts to a mechanic and he measured them both. Main problem is one of the holes drilled in the wrong place, so he re-drilled it. The new one takes up a fraction more space, but he reckons it should fit ok. Been going at it for hours now and can't get it close. Ready to detonate the stupid thing.
    Can't seem to jack the engine to where I need it either. Ken and Jo, what sequence do you use to put it together, considering that I've pulled it all apart?
    Might put a for sale as is sign on it, get some better wet weather gear and ride the motorbike instead.

    Papster
    I'm a bit at loss to answer that Papster. When I was actively changing out sets of engine mounts over five or more Fuego's (Daughters, my first Fuego, and on my sons and a couple of spare cars) the first one I tried took the longest to actually get the old plate off and the new one on, it seemed to need a twist one way or the other, and after doing the first one, I'd just get the top of the plate hooked over the stud thread and then lightly screw in the lower two bolts, then progressively tighten top and bottom.

    Mind you I never removed the engine side mount plate or saw the need to do so. Many times the drivers side mounting was still in good condition, so I'd just unbolt it to save wrecking it when I raised the motor to give me enough room to introduce the bolt on the new passenger side mount to the securing plate on the engine.

    As I recall I had to rock the motor sideways a little and on some I used a heath Robinson style sling down to the front crankshaft pulley on a long lever of wood down the length of the motor and pivoting on the engine bay steel bulkhead (might have had a wood "bridge" from the spring towers, not sure now) that I raised on wood blocks in the vicinity of the radiator removable access spar) so the motor could not drop as I wiggled everything into position.

    I seemed to me that once I had fiddled the new mount into position, tightened the three securing points, the rest was a breeze. Please note I always remove the air cleaner unit as that gives better sight and access into the area you are working in. You just need to remember to reconnect the hot air flexible conduit that comes around the rear of the motor after you put the air cleaner unit back in the car.

    After that first one the rest were easy, with the only variation being a choice of either undoing the drivers side mount from the single bolt (preferable) securing the mount or undoing the small bolts that hold the mount to the chassis, IMHO its harder to line up the small bolt holes, than just undoing the central bolt working blind.

    That aside in the latter changes I would jack at the front of the motor until I got sufficient clearance and used wood levers to prop the motor in position where I wanted it to get the new passenger side mount into position, most times I was working alone on the car.

    After the first couple of replacements it was all pretty straightforward so I was pretty surprised when Jo reported on the mis-shaped replacement. I have still got all the old one I have removed and checked them against the spare new ones I have in stock, and have not seen one like that. I guess that mis-shapened replacements are more common than I thought.

    Sorry you have had such a hard time in what should have been an easy replacement.

    Please persevere or get a new replacement sent to you.

    Ken

  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Thanks Ken, I'll have another try in the morning and might phone a friend as well. Maybe two is better than one. I might put the engine plate in position first and work from there. This is the first side mount I have replaced and hope it's the last. At least the rain has finally gone tonight - hopefully a good sign.

    Cheers, Papster

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,395

    Default

    Dont waste any more time.

    If it fits, its a 1 hour job to get it back together.

    If it doesn't fit it doesn't fit and thats that.


    Jo

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Icon10 Where there is a will there is a way!!

    Bugger, Its a challenge Jo, I always give it my best shot, then later try something else. If push comes to shove I bet the supplier will bend over backwards to help with another promptly delivered. Or get one made up on the removed plate as you suggested.

    Nils carborundem or suchlike!!

    Regards

    Ken

    will have to stop feeling like this, starting to feel young again!!: PS wont last

  22. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Pimlico NSW
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego View Post
    Bugger, Its a challenge Jo, I always give it my best shot, then later try something else. If push comes to shove I bet the supplier will bend over backwards to help with another promptly delivered. Or get one made up on the removed plate as you suggested.

    Nils carborundem or suchlike!!

    Regards

    Ken

    will have to stop feeling like this, starting to feel young again!!: PS wont last
    Bit like you Ken, don't like giving up until I've exhausted every avenue. Gave it a break until late this afternoon and after a lot of pushing and shoving with a couple of jacks and lots of blocks of wood, finally got it done. Every time I moved a jack from different positions, I watched how much movement I got and which way it went. Stuck a piece of wood in front of where the front engine mount was to stop it moving forward and then jacked up the left side more and it gave me just enough space to fit it. I put the mount tightly on the engine plate, and loosely on the body side plate and worked the whole thing into position. Took a bit under 2 hours, a bit more bark off and a big sigh of relief.
    Thanks Ken and Jo for the encouragement and knowledge, and if I ever have to do another one I won't do it. No I will, but I'll certainly find it a lot easier next time. The new mount being slightly different to the original certainly made it more difficult.

    Cheers, Papster

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,763

    Icon14 Congratulations !

    Glad you got it back together, it is a real relief and hopefully you won't need to do it again for a while unless you succumb to the Fuego disease and collect more for attention!!

    Happy motoring.

    ken

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •