R8 Door Hinge Pin removal
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Thread: R8 Door Hinge Pin removal

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default R8 Door Hinge Pin removal

    Hi All,

    Just spent 3 frustrating hours in the gareg trying to remove the door hinge pins from my R8 with success

    I see in the manual there is a special tool for doing this, but I imagine it would be next to impossible to source.

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    Does anyone have any ideas how the pins can be easily removed?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Easy... take a piece of solid round steel rod just slightly smaller diameter than the hole in the hinge and about 4 inches long. now weld another piece of rod about 10 inches long and weld it at right angles, close to one nd of the short piece of rod. now you have a suitable tool, place the end of the short piece of rod on top of the door hinge roll pin, hold it in place by using the handle to stabilise it in position, now take a small engineers hammer and hit the top end of the short piece of rod and drive the pin downwards... easy!

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Frans or someone in NZ described grinding down a suitable size (8mm I think) Allen key on the "short" end so that the first 5.5mm of length is 6mm diameter, then 8mm rounded until it meets the "long end" - which means basically grind the high ridges off it so that it is 8mm round.

    KB
    KB


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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Slater View Post
    Easy... take a piece of solid round steel rod just slightly smaller diameter than the hole in the hinge and about 4 inches long. now weld another piece of rod about 10 inches long and weld it at right angles, close to one nd of the short piece of rod. now you have a suitable tool, place the end of the short piece of rod on top of the door hinge roll pin, hold it in place by using the handle to stabilise it in position, now take a small engineers hammer and hit the top end of the short piece of rod and drive the pin downwards... easy!

    A tent peg works for me.
    Daily Drivers: R10, R12, R17T(?) Decouvrable

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  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default R8 Hinge Pin

    Yes, 8mm is the correct size, and grinding the end bit helps keep the tool in place but as the pins are well rusted in and "tapping" the top of the tool just won't work without a little more effort than normal. Even with WD40, the bugger is just awkward to get to without damaging some of the door.
    I suppose I just have to be patient, and donít try it at night after a long day at work (ie: in a bad mood!)

  6. #6
    Member renogade's Avatar
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    i have put a long bolt through the pin and a piece of iron rod had a nut the exact size of the pin and got a hammer and floged it out and the good thing is it holds the pin when you turn it around and put it back in took us under10 mins to take one door off and put it back on
    Kind Regards
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default R8 Hinge Pin

    GOT IT! GOT IT! GOT IT!
    Sol'n: 8mm 8.8s bolt, tap carefully and once it moves about 5mm, the remaining pin pops out easy. All 4 doors in 20mins
    Thanks guys for the great ideas.
    AS

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! r8waynerenault's Avatar
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    Default R8 door removal

    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    GOT IT! GOT IT! GOT IT!
    Sol'n: 8mm 8.8s bolt, tap carefully and once it moves about 5mm, the remaining pin pops out easy. All 4 doors in 20mins
    Thanks guys for the great ideas.
    AS
    Trust me they all have different issues and some fall out and others need everything you got. What works for one may not work for the other. Look at how they were made, no door gap is the same, it was not a precision built car remember.

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    I need to try to adjust some of the doors on my car. What it the easiest way to adjust door alignment on these cars?

    Since panel gaps where brought up here I thought I could ask in this thread.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    I remember seeing a tool that had a short turned extension on the end of it which comfortably fitted into the compressed roll pin. It's stepped diameter meant that you inserted the short spigot into the roll pin before inserting or removing it. I think it had a Regie part number. Simples...............
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

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    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    I need to try to adjust some of the doors on my car. What it the easiest way to adjust door alignment on these cars?

    Since panel gaps where brought up here I thought I could ask in this thread.
    As the hinges are on welded extensions from the body a sharp tap in the required direction to align the doors correctly is just a matter of hammer skill.
    JohnW likes this.
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    You can also move the striker pad in or out (within reason) by undoing the three Phillips head screws, wont close the door gap but will help with alignment laterally.
    KB


  13. #13
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    Thank you One door needs a bit of both. It is too far back and way too high at the rear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Thank you One door needs a bit of both. It is too far back and way too high at the rear.
    Good luck. It would be interesting for us to see a photo of the door and its gaps for comparison with our cars. What do you mean by "too far back and too high at the rear"?

    These cars were not built to perfect standards...

    Cheers

    John
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    Don't think my car should be used as a reference since I think it's life has been pretty hard Panel gaps are out of place everywhere. Both doors on the driver side need serious adjustments. They need to be moved forward. The driver door touches the B pillar and serious force is required to both open and close these doors.

  16. #16
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Don't think my car should be used as a reference since I think it's life has been pretty hard Panel gaps are out of place everywhere. Both doors on the driver side need serious adjustments. They need to be moved forward. The driver door touches the B pillar and serious force is required to both open and close these doors.
    Eek. You've checked the body shell for cracks? I was just curious about how bad they are. Mine has twice been hit from the side (left side both times) and it isn't perfect although the vertical gaps look reasonable.
    JohnW

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  17. #17
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    Yes, I have been through many hours of welding on the car. Mostly because of rust, but also cracks. Can't see any clear signs of collisions on the body shell, but there are a few body parts with different colors on them when you grind through the top layer of paint.

    The driver door is very visible out of place, it doesn't have any damage, so it might have been replaced after a hit or something at one point without adjusting it properly.

  18. #18
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Yes, I have been through many hours of welding on the car. Mostly because of rust, but also cracks. Can't see any clear signs of collisions on the body shell, but there are a few body parts with different colors on them when you grind through the top layer of paint.

    The driver door is very visible out of place, it doesn't have any damage, so it might have been replaced after a hit or something at one point without adjusting it properly.
    Ah. That sounds like a lot of work! My car had a complete B-pillar fitted from a Renault 10 after its accident. Of course, it takes very little movement at the hinge pin for a lot of movement of the outer edges of the door!

    Good luck!
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
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    Thank you

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