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  1. #101
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Well it took about a month but the extractors are finally done. Im pleased with the results. Im happy that all the lengths are near enough to equal, the pipe sizes are as close as possible to being correct, the collectors are the right angles and there are no cheated bends. As it turned out I had plenty of room, lots of room in fact.

    So to complete the whole exhaust system I have to:

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    1. get the flange skimmed flat
    2. get the whole thing coated, HPC or Procoat I think
    3. build the muffler ( I have made a start and will post photos soon)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2642.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2643.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2644.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2646.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2647.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2648.jpg  

    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  2. #102
    COL
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    Awesome work Ross, those extractors are a work of art.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  3. #103
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    Do you grind back the welds on the inside or leave them rough?

  4. #104
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Thanks Col

    Sunroof - I used about 22 amps on the TIG which is enough to penitrate the pipe but leaves a fairly smooth surface inside. There were a couple of spots where I ran the die grinder around where I could reach but on the whole not really necessary. I think the secret is to have the two halfs perfectly matched before you tack them together, that way the welding is easy and comes up well. I find the linishing machine a must in these sort of jobs.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  5. #105
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Default Muffler

    I started with a carbon muffler I bought off Trademe for $65, I only wanted the carbon outside sleeve as the pipe size was 2.5" and my calculation was for 2". So we chopped it all up, I bought a 2" perforated stainless tube, made up 2 end plates, bought a v-band off trademe for $35 and after a bit of welding we ended up with a very light muffler. Not sure how long it will last, the carbon sleeve is very light but we will see. I havent finished the mounting stap as yet. The one that is on there is too flimsy so Im still scratching my head on that one.

    The sectioned tail piece was just a bit of fun, I could have used a mandel bend but I just wanted to play around with the idea.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2650.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2652.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2653.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2654.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2655.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  6. #106
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    Credit where it's due Ross...very nicely done and I really admire your fabrication skills..say I don't suppose you would like to swap me that muffler for a new hood lining..??

  7. #107
    COL
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    Exhaust looks great Ross, looks like value for money, love how you make something out of a few parts laying around or bought for next to nothing.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  8. #108
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    I havent finished the mounting stap as yet. The one that is on there is too flimsy so Im still scratching my head on that one.
    Ross,

    The mounting strap should be vertical down the side of the crossmember and tie up with the strap. Then it can carry a weight.

    Frans.

    See you on Sunday but will call first.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  9. #109
    Tadpole
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    Hi Ross

    At the end you will have the best dauphine proto ever, you are closer
    Have recived the drawings?

  10. #110
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Thanks all for your kind words.
    Col - im afraid with the budget I am on I have no choice but to think outside the square a little and look for alternative ways of doing things.
    59 Floride - a head lining wont be much use to me sorry, too much wieght, you will have to come up with a better offer.
    Ollie - yes I did receive your drawings thank you, I thought I had emailed you back
    Frans - see you tomorrow, you can show me where I have gone wrong
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  11. #111
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Over 2 months since my last update. I have been busy with the GTA so not a lot of progress with the Dauphine.

    However I did shout myself a nice little bright shiny thing. A race alternator. Very small and light, puts out around 55-60 amps which will be plenty for my application, has an internal fan, one wire hook up or 3 wires if you want a dash light.

    Installation was a bit tricky as space was limited and I wanted to keep it away from the exhaust, also meant moving the crank angle sensor to the other side. But in the end it tucks away nicely I think.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2760.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2763.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2764.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2765.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2767.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  12. #112
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Hi Ross,
    Great work !!!!!

    We need part number and make of alternator, and maybe what vehicles it comes on, please.
    Ray geckoeng

    Think Old, But Run Modern !!

  13. #113
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    I wouldn't know the brand, or if it is the same alternator, but just check on the optimum pulley size and ratio. I've seen a few of the small alternators fail, suspecting it may be the small internals are more suited to short sprint applications rather than the 5-6 day rigours of a targa rally. At least, just pack a spare in the service vehicle to guard against the component failing :-).
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  14. #114
    COL
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    Neat install Ross.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  15. #115
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    These are the type of alternator I've been using for about 12 years now
    There are competition types from Brise etc which are expensive
    You can find them on all small Jap offerings Subaru Justy,Honda Jazz,Toyota Sarlet Etc
    There are 2 main types the Straight type (which Ross's is ) straight opposing mountings and a cranked type mountings about 20 degrees off opposite (easier to fit in an R8)
    Most have a polyvee pulley design except the Kubota mini excavator type. I usually buy a blank 80mm ally pulley and machine it to fit,there is no keyway just face to face drive this along with a 3" ford crossflow steel crank pulley slows the waterpump and alternator down (too fast is not a good thing ) using the standard small pulley the alternator is going 10500 rpm when the motor is doing 8000 they do not appear to like this,Although using crank speed on the alternator does give little charging at tickover ,but the flickering ignition light tells me the fanbelt is still there (which is usefull)
    The only drawback of the scrapyard special versus the competition type is that most of these are 40/45 amp not 50/55 amp depends on having heated seats or not !!!! most of our old stuff needs very little current when it is running, so I have never had a problem. My first one Toyota Starlet 12v (1990) lasted 6 seasons and I replaced it with a service exchange job when it gave out which is still working
    Well if it was easy everybody would do it

  16. #116
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    Ross I always read this thread with interest. The old alternator that you use as an example of size is a hard to find type with offset mounts and pulley that will fit an R15/17. Don't throw it away.

  17. #117
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Brand of alternator is an "XS Performance Alternator". Description says " Nippondenso style internal fan, internal regulator, self exciting, one wire hookup".

    I bought it new off Trademe ($320) so I dont know if its used on a model of car.

    Thanks for the comments re pulley speed, I will check it out.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  18. #118
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    Default Pipe Beading

    I have been fabricating some alloy water pipes for the Dauphine, just short ones that connect the head to the alcathene (spp) pipe that runs under the car. Whenever I do a job like this I always wish I had a pipe beading tool so I look on the internet in the hope of finding a cheap one but I can never find one at a reasonable price. I used to hire one years ago but I dont think they have it any more.

    I had been thinking of a design so the other night I knocked this up. Suprisingly it does a really good job. It cost a whole $7 and by changing to a larger exhaust clamp and fitting a larger washer on the end of the arm it can do any size pipe, so good for intercooler piping as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2771.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2774.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2768.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2772.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2773.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_2770.jpg  

    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  19. #119
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Ross
    What size alum pipe are you using?
    Capral have 40dia x1.6 or 40dia x3 or (to closely make 36.8ID or 34ID)
    Angelo

  20. #120
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    I have been fabricating some alloy water pipes for the Dauphine, just short ones that connect the head to the alcathene (spp) pipe that runs under the car. Whenever I do a job like this I always wish I had a pipe beading tool so I look on the internet in the hope of finding a cheap one but I can never find one at a reasonable price. I used to hire one years ago but I dont think they have it any more.

    I had been thinking of a design so the other night I knocked this up. Suprisingly it does a really good job. It cost a whole $7 and by changing to a larger exhaust clamp and fitting a larger washer on the end of the arm it can do any size pipe, so good for intercooler piping as well.
    Ross

    You have inspired me with your design
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    750frog is right. Locking the diff is easy and we can talk you through it. It will save you some bucks. In the mean time try and get hold of an old gearbox or diff for the extra planetary gears. Unless you want to do it with the solid spindle.

    Regards
    Frans.
    Hi Frans, I am now looking at getting the gbox sorted. I am getting the R16TS internals in the box and want to lock the diff. I believe I will need a solid spindle. Do you know where I would I get one from?

    You can pm me with details if you like.

    many thanks
    Angelo

  22. #122
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Locking a R8 diff should preferably be done with a solid spindle to get rid of the weak output shaft. The 16TS diff has the thicker output shafts and you no longer need the spindle. You need 2 extra 16TS planetary gears, remove the crown gear and pop them in between the existing gears. Then refit the crown gear and you will have a locked diff.
    If you want a spindle then use Bohler K600 steel and the check the 2 new race cars in NZ thread. Use the dimensions from the 16TS diff to fit snug in the casing.

    Just say if you need more info.

    Regards
    Frans
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  23. #123
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    Hi Frans
    i see what you now mean from the 2 race cars in NZ thread.
    Do you kow where these spindles can be obtained from or are you interested in making up another spindle?
    pm me if you would like to discuss further.
    Angelo

  24. #124
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
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    Its been 6 months since my last update and thats not because I havent been doing anything - quite the opposite. Ive been very focused on getting the Dauphine up to a stage where I can compete. I was aiming for an event in early June, just a motorkhana but due to clutch problems I had to withdrawn from that one. The second round of the series was 7 July and yes I made it.

    So nearly 8 years since my last entry in the log book I finally have a new entry.

    I will post more about the event later, first an update on the rest of the build.

    Wiring took ages, not that we had many problems, in fact it went quite smoothly but re-wiring a car from scratch is a big job and not to be taken lightly. I think I said earlier we used an american hot rod loom and it was great. I got the basic 8 circuit loom, bit of a mistake as we had to double up on a few circuits. My son persuaded me to put in a complete earth loom as well so instead of all appliances earthing through the body everything (and I mean everything) has its own earth wire that runs back to one of 3 earth blocks. These blocks are then all connected together and to the negative side of the battery.

    After wiring I have a huge list of small jobs. The clutch linkage seems straight forward but I could not get it to work. After a week or so of stuffing around we finally pulled the engine out and found the clutch plated bonded to the flywheel and pressure plate. I then realised that it had been a couple of years since the engine had been assembled and in that time they had all got stuck together.

    Suspension needed final setting up, brakes bleeding, all the body panels on, glazing in, etc etc.

    Start up day went well. Frans came around (he built the engine so if anything went wrong we had someone to blame) and we went through all the normal pre startup checks and proceedures. After all the cam problems Frans went through with Donalds car we were advised to run the car immediately at 4000rpm for the first 20 minutes. Once we were happy with everything and had oil pressure it fired up straight away. We had a few issues with loose screws in the carbs and venturies rotating and settings on the Megajolt being way out for some reason but with all those resolved it ran very strong.

    I had fitted an electric water pump and controller. we thought it was all bled but after about 5 minutes at 4000rpm it started to get a bit hot so we shut down. Over the next week we tried all sorts of things to bleed the water system. We even took out the pump and tested it outside the car. Eventually we got it bled and it works very well, actually too well at the moment so I will have to turn it up a bit.

    Anyway enough of the boring stuff and on with the photos.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-2012-11-24-10.46.54.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-2013-01-11-17.20.03.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-2013-01-11-17.20.29.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-2013-01-11-17.21.02.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5916.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5917.jpg  

    Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5918.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5919.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5920.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-img_5922.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  25. #125
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Ross, Im taking the opportunity to add some pictures of the completed car at the track on the first testing day.

    In defense of the Megajolt...when I built them I tested each one in a test setup on my workbench and in the vice. I turned the toothed wheel for the cranksensor with my drilling machine and that can only do 2000rpm max. So the outputs and shift light and revlimiter was set below that. When all checks were completed I never changed it back to higher rpms. That's why the car was so stubborn. It went into the rev limiter almost immediately. All my fault, the Megajolts have not yet skipped a beat.

    Frans.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-daupha.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-dauphb.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-dauphc.jpg  
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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