Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car - Page 2
  • Register
  • Help
Page 2 of 11 First 123456 ... Last
Results 26 to 50 of 264
Like Tree30Likes

Thread: Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car

  1. #26
    Fellow Frogger! 750frog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Dubbo
    Posts
    125

    Default Whatr class will you run in?

    I am guessing you would run this in 1600 - 2000 sports sedan class with all the mods and the cage going through the firewall?

    My brother got away from this by using a common plate either side and welding to that.

    Looks like a fantastic car and will be a great race car I am guessing.

    Advertisement

  2. #27
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    Class will depend on the type of racing. For hillclimbs it will be in the 1300-1600cc class (I deliberately kept the cc under 1600 so I could be in this class). For Targa it will be Historic class.

    Yes cage goes through the firewall, in fact it goes from rear cross member to front cross member. All sealed up with welded in plates at the rear.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  3. #28
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    630

    Default Lowered Springs

    Hi Ross,
    I am building up my R8 which will be runing a R5A engine, roll cage (CAMS approved) and a few go fast bits. It has a log book. I intend to strip to a bear shell and do full body rebuild, so plenty happening now.
    On the question of springs, what is the lowest one should go for circuit racing. I note Mecaparts has 200mm (front) and 240mm (Rear) springs which they say are suitable for circuit racing. I want good handling, and will not be doing any country road stull, but will be using it on the road occationally. I already have the Koni's which will be going in.
    Also whilst on the subject of suspension, I have found that the only replacement rubbers are standard type, does anyone supply neoprene type?
    Angelo

  4. #29
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    Hi Angelo

    I havent done much circuit racing with the old Dauphine but Frans has so he might want to jump in here. Personally I wouldnt go lower than 100mm to the lowest part of the chassis.

    Springs is a bit of a mine field, everyone has there own opinion and theorys. I spent a lot of time reading and experimenting with different springs and anti roll bars and came up with what I thought was a good combination but Frans just chopped the standard springs by about 1 coil and he gets good results from that. So who knows but if you want to know more I can give you some more detail.

    When you say rubbers do you mean bushes? If so we made up our own (when I say we I really mean Frans made them for me). I got some off cuts of Nylatron which is a very hard plastic material impregnated with a lube (graffite I think). Turns up well on the lathe so its easy to make to any shape and wears extremely well.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  5. #30
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Hi,

    I have lowered my car a little bit and I am not sure but I think not more than a 3/4 turn. I can't remember. The more you shorten it the harder it gets and because you lighten it as well it becomes even harder. I have not bothered with any other coils because it eats into the budget and I thought that my S African race car handled good with standard cut coils so I applied the same logic here. If you go too low you will have to mount the rack and pinion higher to compensate for bump steer.

    I am a firm believer that the diff has to be locked. There is no way I can accelerate out of the sharp corners as I do with an open diff. When you drive fast the locked diff comes to light and no one will be able to fault it. There is zero understeer and if you go fast enough it will oversteer but that is something you cannot complain about. Do not weld the diff!! Simply remove the crown gear and pop two extra spider gears in between the existing ones and bolt the crown gear back on. They will stay there and the diff is locked or you can have a solid spindle made up which is the best way at he end. (have pictures of the spindle if you want)

    Having said that you need a soft(ish) suspension to provoke body roll so that the inside wheel can go light, or lift, when the straps take up the travel. As soon as that happens the outside wheel has all the weight and grip on itself to pull you effortless out of the corner. I have removed the straps and replaced it with chain that is pulled through a bicycle tube so that it doesn't rattle. When I jack the car up at the back the wheels will swing to 0 degrees camber. That is the length of the chain.

    I do drive my car on the public roads and it is OK with the diff. It is not good when trying to get into tight spot at low speed but at a shopping center I will park at a distance where there are more open parking spots.

    You can see some of my races on Youtube and then you can be the judge, even in the wet.

    Regards
    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  6. #31
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    630

    Default

    Hi Frans, Ross
    You guys are absolutely ingenious!
    What you both say makes it sound very easy, but I know it has taken many hours of experimenting to get the this point. When I aquired the the R8, I also received many spares, including about 4 sets of springs made up of varying heights. The car was destined for forest rallying, so they are typically all high. I should just take your advice and cut down a set and see how it goes.
    The diff lock info is very valuable, but it means I will need to give teh gbox to someone who can do the fix you are suggesting. Like you I am on a budget, with most of it I can now see going to the body & paint.
    With the straps, I have seen also used a shortened seat belt webbing with the end bracket used, but your zero camber suggestion makes sense, and I will be following this as well.
    Please keep up the thread, as I have learn't heaps and only wish you guys were on this side of the Tasman!
    Angelo

  7. #32
    Fellow Frogger! 750frog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Dubbo
    Posts
    125

    Default

    the gearbox is not that tricky really, as long as you are not pulling the clusters apart that is. Get yourself a haynes manual and give it a go!
    I am putting the same motor in my 4cv (eventually) but I think I will have to make up the manifolds myself as they seem to cost a bomb from mecaparts!

    Car looks great!

  8. #33
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    Hi Ross,
    Also whilst on the subject of suspension, I have found that the only replacement rubbers are standard type, does anyone supply neoprene type?
    Angelo
    Don't use standard rubber bushes. When racing you would set the the front camber to a negative figure so that when you have a little bit of body roll the outer wheel will be square with the road and you will achieve full rubber contact on that wheel.
    With rubber bushes the additional grip from racing tyres around a corner will cause a thrust that will compress the top wishbone bushes and the bottom ones, which will cause the wheel to change its preset negative camber to a positive camber. You will loose rubber contact area.

    When you get to that stage and you want some I can make them for you.

    750frog is right. Locking the diff is easy and we can talk you through it. It will save you some bucks. In the mean time try and get hold of an old gearbox or diff for the extra planetary gears. Unless you want to do it with the solid spindle.

    Regards
    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  9. #34
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    630

    Default

    Guys, I have just dropped the end/box out as well as fuel tank and all wiring loom is out.
    I will concentrate on the body, and then assembly. At this point I will look at suspension and keep your offer in mind.
    Many thanks, I will keep you updated on progress.
    Angelo

  10. #35
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    I recently bought a Fuego Turbo so I could rob some engine bits for the Dauphine. I originally thought I would be just after the rods but it turns out I scored a number of bits.

    Rods - as you can see from the photo they are much stronger

    Clutch - as you can see for the photo clutch plate is bigger and I would presume that the pressure plate is stronger.

    Oil pump - standard R16 impeller is 26mm high, Fuego turbo is 31mm high, 20% increase in volume.

    Rear Brakes - I will post a photo tomorrow but these are looking like they will be a good option for the Dauphine and I can use off the self pads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-20-june-11-1.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-20-june-11-4.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  11. #36
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Rods - as you can see from the photo they are much stronger

    Clutch - as you can see for the photo clutch plate is bigger and I would presume that the pressure plate is stronger.

    Oil pump - standard R16 impeller is 26mm high, Fuego turbo is 31mm high, 20% increase in volume.
    Looks like it may be a Fuego GTX (2 litre) clutch. Also looks like they must have used parts from the 17TS/Gordini, that also has stronger rods and larger capacity oil pump.

    Looks like the car will be a nice creation, as well as being quite light!

  12. #37
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,874

    Default

    Those rods certainly do look tougher although I have never had any problems with the std rods. The turbo rods are also made for a fully floating gudgeon, but are not quite the same as the 17G rods as they do not have through bolts and nuts to hold the cap on. 17G rods have just a bolt and a couple of guide pins to locate and hold the cap.

    The 18GTS also had the larger Gordini style oil pump as well and suits the 17 sump, but it comes as a complete casting rather than having a bolt on pick up tube.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

  13. #38
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    Ive been meaning to post an update on progress.

    We have working on a number of fronts:
    1. Engine - Frans has posted a few updates in the tech section on his work, I have modified the sump to allow a bit more clearance around the pickup.
    2. Body - have mounted the front guards and lower valance and am busy with the rear guards this week. I weighed the shell last week just using 3 sets of cheap Chinese bathroom scales so probably not very accurate. The shell with roll cage, 4 doors, 4 fibreglass glass guards, boot lid and engine cover and rear cross member came to 210kg.
    3. Suspension - found some aftermarket springs at a reasonable price. I wanted 330lbs/inch as these were the weight I used on the old Dauphine. So they had exactly that weight in stock but when I got them home and did a calculation on them they turned out to be about 275. So I need to take them back and swap them for a stronger pair
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-pict0001.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-pict0002.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  14. #39
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default Im Sick of Sanding

    Ive had enough of sanding, the rest of the imperfections will have to have stickers over them.

    So primer went on yesterday, this will need 400 wet rub down then final painting.

    At least its all one colour now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-1.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-2.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-3.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-4.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-5.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-6.jpg  

    Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-7.jpg   Ross's new Dauphine Racing Car-23-nov-11-8.jpg  
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  15. #40
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,122

    Default

    It looks good in Hot Rod (matt) Yellow!
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  16. #41
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    woodbridge
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Thanks Frans

    Not really much to report since my last post (lost in the crash) but now the GTA is out of the way it is my prime focus

    Squirted a bit of paint around, used enamel for the first time and very pleased with the results. Fitting up panels at the moment in preparation for the exterior paint which will be yellow again.

    Still lots to go, all a bit daunting really but Frans is building the engine which is a big help and the gearbox (R16 internals) is ready to go. I have all the bits for the big brakes and the modified suspension is nearly ready. Seats and harnesses have been fitted and mounting points welded in. So big jobs left are painting, wiring, plumbing. And of course lots of little jobs.
    that renault looks amazin, can you tell me were i can purchase the wide body kit i would love to have one for mine, thank you

  17. #42
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    The story goes the moulds were originally made by Georges Queron back in the 70's when he raced Dauphines in France and made about 16 customer cars.

    The moulds are now owned by a retired frenchman who works out of his garage in Nice, his name is Mr Vallet and his phone number is 04 9373 4819. I waited till I had a french speaking friend around for dinner and asked him to ring Mr Vallet. I ordered the 4 guards and had them sent out, not cheap but I think they are worth it.

    There are other kits available. "Strakit" is another one, not as good looking in my opinion. There is also another company in France doing allsorts of wide body kits, have posted their details before.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  18. #43
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    woodbridge
    Posts
    10

    Default

    thank you for your reply and help , i will need to find a french man before i order lol, i will look at yuor old posts to find the other wide body kits, thanks again

  19. #44
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    woodbridge
    Posts
    10

    Default

    hey ross did you ever get your own moulds done ? i read your old post about you might. thanks

  20. #45
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    No I didnt, I spoke to a couple of companies but they wanted lots of money and didnt really seem that interested.

    That link is http://www.mcracingsa.com/SIXTIESRENAULTDAUPHINE.htm
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  21. #46
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,288

    Default

    Ross what was the shipping costs like if you don't mine me asking?

    I've been considering some of their 205 stuff...

  22. #47
    Fellow Frogger! Ross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Auckland NZ
    Posts
    380

    Default

    I honestly cant remember what the shipping was, it was about 7 years ago I brought them in so my memory is a bit hazy. Also we were hosting a Tahitian student at the time and his mother worked for Air France so we were able to get them here a lot cheaper than normal freight.
    Ross:

    1989 Alpine GTA Twin Turbo
    1963 Renault R8
    1996 Peugeot 106 S16
    1967 NSU Prinz 1200TT
    1989 Peugeot 205 GTi

  23. #48
    I might be slow... DRTDVL's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,288

    Default

    All good...

    Their small maxi kit and carbon foot-wells are very tempting...

  24. #49
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Jerangle
    Posts
    772

    Default

    There were 2 guys at Renault Australia in Sydney who had Dauphines in the 1970's parked at work.
    One yellow and the other...... one had 16TS with webers,the other TL engine.

    Anyone know the story??

  25. #50
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Jerangle
    Posts
    772

    Default

    Also there was one in Victoria that raced,track.
    Holden 6 cylinder engine.

    I saw it at Sandown when racing my Ducati.

    Fuel leak during the race, no cap?
    Eventually splashed onto the engine and caught fire!!

Page 2 of 11 First 123456 ... Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •