R16 Front Torsion Settings
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Sarosa's Avatar
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    Default R16 Front Torsion Settings

    Hi Everyone,

    Putting the front suspension back after a refurb. I'm not sure what the original offset, if any, was at the wishbone end as it wasn't marked upon removal. When I removed the anchor housing end the bar dot lined up with the factory dot on the housing. If I lined up the wishbone end it would appear to me, visually anyway, that the suspension would be set too high. Does anyone know was there a standard factory setting? Knowing that the anchor housing end lined up, was an offset done at the wishbone end, and if so by how many splines?

    ....Just to add with some more thinking. I've checked the variances in road heights in the manuals for "Poor Roads" which Australian R16's where set up for. The height should be adjusted (Higher) by 25mm, front and rear. I have a pair of rear torsion bars removed out of a '69TS where you can clearly see a red spline mark on both bars. Knowing the car they came from they would be factory marks. These lines offset the "dot" by 5 splines on each side. That would raise the vehicle 30mm (5 x 6mm per spline). If I took that as the basis for offsetting, I assume I should perhaps be offsetting the front by 7 splines (7 x 4mm per spline) (As the rears are thicker they adjust by 6mm per spline).Seem's logical? Anyone have experience with this.? The trouble is the engine is out so it will sit high anyway, hence need to get it right now.

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    Last edited by Sarosa; 23rd January 2011 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Thoughts a few hours later lying under the car.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    Default R16 torsion bar settings.

    As far as front bars go, I think you'd better find a service manual because when I embarked on a trip to Darwin from Melbourne I had decided to increase the suspension height to the maximum shown in the owners manual. It transpires that the steering box height has to be adjusted as well.

    If this is not done to book settings you will be buying new tyres on a fairly regular basis, as well as having steering/handling issues. Because of the range of adjustment in R16/R16TS torsion bars and suspension heights available I think it would be wise to chase up a mechanic who worked on them when under warranty and see if anyone has the settings!

    Rear suspension is easier but because of the unequal wheelbases you have to get both sides exactly right or your car may corner on the wing mirrors on one side instead of the door handles!

    Hope this helps your thought processes!
    Last edited by Kim Luck; 26th January 2011 at 10:28 PM. Reason: As usual, old age and short term memory..........What did you say?
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Sarosa's Avatar
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    Default

    Got the engine back in today so I could correctly measure the underbody height. So much for my mathematical theory. I ended up offsetting by 6 splines, however the underbody height is now sittting at 310mm, that's 90mm over poor road height What I just can't fathom is thats a movement back of 22 splines yet there are only 23/24 splines on the bar Not only could I tackle Darwin on this height, I might stop by the Olga's and drive up them

    Any ideas? I guess ditch the theory and do it visually by trial and error. I can see a long day coming up....???

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Sarosa's Avatar
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    ....some photo's of the height
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R16 Front Torsion Settings-h1.jpg   R16 Front Torsion Settings-h2.jpg  

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! viragewagonman's Avatar
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    Ill give my dad a ring and see what he says.
    Michael
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    previous cars;
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Default Suspension settin!!

    Sarosa ,

    The torsion settings on all Renault Torsion bars, are like a Vernier setting, and are set when the car is in road going trim. You Have the dots and makings on the bars the wishbones, and the anchors. And trough a precise exercise and of fitting the bars and height measurement, you get to the final point of trimming your adjustment by using the cam settings. You require a proper workshop manual, as the Haynes book does not explain it correctly, or actually as the Renault manual does. Once I got mine right I used to mark them on a very clean surface with a white paint pen, for ease of setting next time. And there are LH and RH bars.

    The bars also need to be matching, as there were 3 thicknesses. And "standard terrain" should not be wound up to "rough terrain" heights. They do break. I can testify to that.

    Ray geckoeng

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Sarosa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckoeng View Post
    Sarosa ,

    The torsion settings on all Renault Torsion bars, are like a Vernier setting, and are set when the car is in road going trim. You Have the dots and makings on the bars the wishbones, and the anchors. And trough a precise exercise and of fitting the bars and height measurement, you get to the final point of trimming your adjustment by using the cam settings. You require a proper workshop manual, as the Haynes book does not explain it correctly, or actually as the Renault manual does. Once I got mine right I used to mark them on a very clean surface with a white paint pen, for ease of setting next time. And there are LH and RH bars.

    The bars also need to be matching, as there were 3 thicknesses. And "standard terrain" should not be wound up to "rough terrain" heights. They do break. I can testify to that.

    Ray geckoeng
    Thanks Ray. I'm assuming our (Australian) R16's got the poor road torsion bars because our Oval plates are stamped 800, for poor roads. Hence I am making the assumption's based on the 'medium' bars ( Based on the 3 thickness's as you say, Normal road ones, Poor road ones (Ours) and Special ones, sometime's referred to as "African suspension". (ie Supposedly put in Bob Watson's 1969 VRC R16).

    The manual gives the front underbody heights as (For R1151 / 16TS):
    Normal Roads: 195mm
    Poor Roads: 220mm (What I was aiming for)
    Specials: 220mm (They get a higher rear than Poor Roads)

    So I guess start at the factory dots and adjust from there?. Do you know what the raise/lower maximum adjustments (In mm) are for the Cam method? I can't find this info listed in any manuals
    Last edited by Sarosa; 26th February 2011 at 10:12 PM.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Default Settings!!

    Hi Sarosa,
    The cams , if I remember properly will give you at max, about 3mm. So it is just the final trim. I used to put 3 bags of 25kg sand on the drivers floor when setting, and the car ran well on the cambered roads in South Africa. Was also very good to tyres.

    Ray geckoeng

  9. #9
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckoeng View Post
    Hi Sarosa,
    The cams , if I remember properly will give you at max, about 3mm. So it is just the final trim. I used to put 3 bags of 25kg sand on the drivers floor when setting, and the car ran well on the cambered roads in South Africa. Was also very good to tyres.

    Ray geckoeng
    Ray, you should write a book!

    Another source of information, by phone, would be Tony Goode in Adelaide. Assuming he's not retired, Lynton Motors might get him, as that was his business after he left Renault Australia, where, if I recall, he was workshop manager in Adelaide right through the "great times". Nice bloke to say the least.

    Last time I saw him was when he replaced a rear window seal on my R8 (and we've been in Perth 21 years) with great difficulty. I'm still grateful.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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