Gearbox auto/manual changeover in a 20 - 2nd gear problems
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  1. #1
    bob
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    Gearbox auto/manual changeover in a 20 - 2nd gear problems

    After the auto died I had a five speed fitted to our 20. The job was done by a Renault mechanic who said he fitted new synchro springs and the box type was one he "didn't see very often" he intimated that it was heavier than the usual model. The remote change had to be fitted by measure, guess and cut as there were no holes.

    The problem is that most of the time it changes like a dream - a little flick, no worries. But on occassions, usually when hot, it doesn't want to go into second. It gets to the gate position and stops until it gets a blacksmith shove.

    Any ideas from all them experts out there ?

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    Thanks,
    Bob

  2. #2
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    I am an avid Renault auto man myself and i would have left things as they were. Just get the auto serviced regualry.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Sometimes it becomes quite inefficient cost-wise or even impossible to repair the older autos. Some parts are no longer available, whilst others are extremely expensive. And, of course, you will have to repeat the whole exercise within 100,000 km

    I wouldn't be surprised in this case if it was cheaper to replace the auto with a manual.

    Anyone got a spare UN1 transmission for my R25 V6?
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Hi Bob,

    Try some super lubricant like Nulon transmission additive. It did the trick in my last 20 and I use it now in all my cars.

    For whatever reason Renault slushboxes don't seem to last very long. I hope yours proves the exception to the rule Daniel.

    Someone here suggested that a beefed up transmission oil cooler and more regular fluid changes was the answer to a longer auto life.




    [quote]Originally posted by bob:
    <strong>After the auto died I had a five speed fitted to our 20. The job was done by a Renault mechanic who said he fitted new synchro springs and the box type was one he "didn't see very often" he intimated that it was heavier than the usual model. The remote change had to be fitted by measure, guess and cut as there were no holes.

    The problem is that most of the time it changes like a dream - a little flick, no worries. But on occassions, usually when hot, it doesn't want to go into second. It gets to the gate position and stops until it gets a blacksmith shove.

    Any ideas from all them experts out there ?

    Thanks,
    Bob</strong><hr></blockquote>
    Woo Hoo Honi ko'u 'elemu (Hawaiian)

  5. #5
    Simon's Avatar
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    Most of the problems with the older Renault autos seem related to the electronic "brain" or the vacuum capsule leaking sucking trans fluid into the motor and gradually draining the trans. Someone I know even mixed the various fluids TQF, TQD, etc in their 12 trans and somehow it kept functioning for a long while until it started slipping a lot probably more from age. The hydraulics mostly last at least 100,000 miles which isn't too bad in comparison to "normal" cars. But the brain seems to go out more frequently!

    The ones on the 19's just seem to stop functioning, or chip diffs.

    Anyway, back to the problem on the manual 20. My thoughts could be that the bronze bush on the selector could be expanding and with the made up shifter which may not be exact tolerances, it baulks in the shift. It could also be a really dud synchro too. Probably try the Nulon treatment first, it is simplest and doesn't require a lot of tools.

    Any idea of the gearbox code 365,395,NG3 etc? it could help in finding what the trans has come from to develop the shifting mechanism.

    Also Europa, beware of people brandishing UN1's for you to buy. A version of the UN1 was used in the AUS spec 2.2 25. It probably won't take the torque of a V6, given that the diff's seem to crumble on high mileage 2.2 25's as well. Check the code!

    Simon
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice there Simon, I'll be sure to check it out should one become available...

    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  7. #7
    bob
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    If you don't look in here every day it goes beserk !

    You were all pretty kind to Simon, autos belong behind big sixes and the old v8 - not little fours in midi weight bodies. Anyway, Europa is spot on, the estimated repair costs were up to double the changeover cost.

    I'll check out what the code is for the box, I suppose that it can be read without a four jointed arm and three mirrors ? Where is it ?

    Thanks

    Bob

  8. #8
    Simon's Avatar
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    I don't understand? Who was kind to me and what about? For what its worth, the actual operation of a Renault auto trans I reckon is quite efficient. It is just a pain in the owners pocket when they go wrong.

    Reading your comment though, I can't understand you buying a 20 auto in the first place, or did you buy it with the manual box in it?

    Anyway, the gearbox id tag is held by a bolt that secures the end casing of the gearbox, it is pretty obvious. If you can't see anything it usually means someone has souvenired it as it sits like a washer underneath a bolt head.

    Simon
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2002 Land Rover Defender Td5 130 - ex-CFA Region 4
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Hi Simon

    I took it that Bob was referring to Daniel's comment rather than your info.

    "You were all pretty kind to Simon, autos belong behind big sixes and the old v8 - not little fours in midi weight bodies. "
    Woo Hoo Honi ko'u 'elemu (Hawaiian)

  10. #10
    bob
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    Oops !

    Sorry Simon, BogMaster is spot on. The 20 "came to me" from a relative as an auto. It was getting beyond a joke for an old lady as it was feeling its age (the car) and playing up on her - and costing heaps.

    The auto died after transfer hence the transplant - I wouldn't have an auto by choice (in a 4) having suffered a 504 that wouldn't pull the skin off a banana years ago. It's just that this one was, well, the right price. Its cost plenty since !

    Anyway, apart from this problem with 2nd it now runs like a top and certainly has more grunt (?) than it had as an auto and more than the manual 505 that it replaced. Not as comfy as the 505 though.

    Bob

  11. #11
    bob
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    Can't find the ID tag on this gearbox but I'm told it is a type 369. I'm pretty sure that the problem is in the selector mechanicals somewhere but it's hard to tie down. If your are passing a kerb or wall when you shift out of second there is a loud "click" as you get to neutral - if that helps anyone to tie down the problem ? Hardly ever plays up when it's cold.

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