Early and late model Fuegos
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Early and late model Fuegos

    Hi,

    I got an Oct 1982 build Fuego for gratis this weekend which has done 190k km. Its gold (paint colour not the metal alas), and came with original wheels and Michelins with about 75% tread. Amazingly, the paint is in very good condition & the body is straight - no dents or rust. It hadn't been started since Jan this year after it failed an inspection test for rego. The left hand headlight glass is broken, the rear muffler needs replacing, both steering outer tierod ball joints need replacing, and the left outer cv boot needs replacing according to the inspection slip, and there was a quote for about $650 to do the work but not including the cost of a headlight unit. The owner decided she was not going to repair the car as she had inherited another car which is her daily driver. The Fuego was going to the crushers today if no one took it as she is moving house.

    I got it started yesterday & drove it the short distance to where I work (the wife doesn't know yet). The car went like the stink and the g'box is OK apart from a bit of a whine in the lower gears. Surprisingly the synchro seems good. Interior is a bit grotty (seats & carpet need replacing) but the dash is OK apart from a few small cracks on top. The instruments work except for the tacho which has gone on leave at a steady 1100 rpm.

    So its really too good to wreck & I'll probably fix it up for my daughter. However, it seems a bit different from the 85 non-power steering one I'm familiar with.

    For example, the coolant bottle is like a R18 one and is located down by the battery. Also, the dizzy has 2 clips holding the cap on, unlike the later one in which the cap is attached by screws. The only reason I looked was because the wretched thing wouldn't start today so I decided to check the dizzy cap & noticed the difference (god knows why it wouldn't start today when it started yesterday after lying dormant for nearly 1 yr). The dizzy will need replacing as the shaft bush & seal are worn & there is some oil in the cap. I have a good dizzy from a R25 - will it fit? And will the tierod ends from a R25 also fit?

    Are there many differences between the 82 model and 85 one as I may be able to get an 85 one for parts for a nominal amount? Alas, it also has a grotty interior (been sitting in a backyard in the sun for 2 yrs) but working tacho, & good motor & g'box & headlights. Also has Camira mags but the owner took out the near-new Recaro seats with custom mounts for the Fuego to fit to his street machine His original plan was to turbo the Fuego.

    Renpete

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  2. #2
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    Default Champagne Gold Colour

    Renpete

    The 82 does have the old style expansion bottle, and they work quite well, I thought the distributor would be the same as the pre power steering ones - can't check as I sold the last 82 I had.

    I have a yellow Fuego wreck, and according to the papers it was Champagne Gold - quite a nice colour, would have looked good on the road (the owners brother took it for a spin and instead of powering through a corner he backed off taking out the left hand mudguard and bending the wheel back, hence I bought it as a wreck for spares.

    If you are capable of doing the work yourself, you should be able to get those unroadworthy items fixed using either good s/hand parts or new parts from Carravelle in Melbourne. As to what will fit ring Ken Bailey on (03) 9890 9061 and he will tell you what he has available, prices etc. As far as I know he has the inner and outer steering/tie rod ends new at reasonable prices.

    His old catalogue shows tie rods as fitting 18/20/FGO/504/505, the distributor seal also fits R25 so dizzy may be interchangeable.

    From the sound of it, the car should be easily recoverable with a bit of TLC.

    Ken

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Oh ,to be able to bend a back wheel
    Jo

  4. #4
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    The tacho needle has likely bent in the heat and is contacting the tacho face. I fixed mine.


    You need to be very gentle because the tacho is a precision instrument of very light construction. Don't try to fix it unless you can live with it if you break it completely. Don't say I didn't warn you.

    If you do decide to give fixing it a try, here is the recipe;

    Take note of precisely where the needle sits when at rest - you will need this later. A small pencil mark will help.

    Remove the needle by pulling the needle from its pivot point along the length of the tacho pivot-shaft. That is straight out from the tacho face. You MUST pull it off without putting any sideways pressure on the pivot-shaft. If it offers any more than token resistance stop and get an instrument maker to look at it.

    Warm the needle up in the region of the bend. It will soften almost immediately. BEWARE! The plastic used is very susceptible to heat and burns at a very low temperature. I used the heat of a match held about 10 cm away. BE CAREFUL, this plastic goes from soft to burning extemely quickly. Hot water might be enough, you might like to try that first.

    As soon as the plastic is softened, hold it straight and put it in cold water.

    Now comes the hard part - putting it back on in the right position. Be gentle, little force is required. Hold the needle at its pivot point and push it on the pivot-shaft just enough for it to hold. When you let the needle go after putting it on the pivot-shaft, the counterweight will reposition it. You will need to gently remove and refit a few times until the needle settles in the right position according to the mark you made earlier. Don't push the needle fully home until it is positioned correctly.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Westair's Avatar
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    "Warm the needle up in the region of the bend.


    You could try holding a powerful torch-electric- close to needle and it may soften
    1986 Renault Fuego GTX
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  6. #6
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    Or use VK Conformabore needles.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haakon
    Or use VK Conformabore needles.

    Thanks for the advice about the tacho needle guys, but its not bent & neither is the speedo needle. Its just stuck on 1100 rpm and didn't move or twitch when the engine was going or the ignition was turned on. Dead as a stuffed parrot. I assume that its either tendered its resignation or that an electrical connection isn't functioning. How do you remove the instrument panel to check?

    I can't work on the engine which refused to start yesterday evening as the car is in a carpark at work overlooked by a large building. Don't want to draw any attention to it at this stage, and as I am going out on a field trip until Friday, I'll have to leave it to the weekend before having another go. B*****ed if I know why it won't start when it was fine on Sunday.

    Does anyone have a Haynes Fuego manual for sale?

    Renpete

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego
    Renpete

    The 82 does have the old style expansion bottle, and they work quite well, I thought the distributor would be the same as the pre power steering ones - can't check as I sold the last 82 I had.
    His old catalogue shows tie rods as fitting 18/20/FGO/504/505, the distributor seal also fits R25 so dizzy may be interchangeable.

    Ken
    Ken,
    According to Ken at Caravelle some of the early Fuego dizzys were SEV (like mine) not Ducellier. The SEV dizzy, cap and rotor are now unobtainable, so I'll have to try my spare R25 dizzy - it should fit as the SEV one is attached by 3 bolts sim to the Ducellier setup. The R25 tierod outer ball joints will apparently fit the Fuego. Sometimes the parts-bin mentality of Renault has its merits.

    Renpete

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Tie rod ends as you discovered same b/w Fuego and R25. But track rods are different lengths (R25 a wider car). Also, track rods are shorter on power steer Fuegos compared to manual steer ones.

    I think lower ball joints are same too. Top ball joints and castor bushes different. Hub upright interchangeble too, if you want to fit larger R25 discs to the Fuego. Calipers the same.

    R25 dizzy and Fuego (manual steer Ducellier equipped) same (I have a Fuego one on my R25 - found a non leaking one at Pickapart )
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haakon
    Tie rod ends as you discovered same b/w Fuego and R25. But track rods are different lengths (R25 a wider car). Also, track rods are shorter on power steer Fuegos compared to manual steer ones.

    I think lower ball joints are same too. Top ball joints and castor bushes different. Hub upright interchangeble too, if you want to fit larger R25 discs to the Fuego. Calipers the same.

    R25 dizzy and Fuego (manual steer Ducellier equipped) same (I have a Fuego one on my R25 - found a non leaking one at Pickapart )
    Yeah,
    You don't know how lucky you are in Melbourne with Pickapart. Aside from getting good stuff, the value of dismantling to get the bits is that you learn a hell of a lot more than you can from a manual. Canberra is hopeless

    I have a spare set of R25 discs, so I'll consider the change down the track. Have to get the B thing going first so I can move it from the carpark at work. Can't even lock it as the PO can't find the door key!


  11. #11
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renpete
    Yeah,
    You don't know how lucky you are in Melbourne with Pickapart. Aside from getting good stuff, the value of dismantling to get the bits is that you learn a hell of a lot more than you can from a manual. Canberra is hopeless

    I have a spare set of R25 discs, so I'll consider the change down the track. Have to get the B thing going first so I can move it from the carpark at work. Can't even lock it as the PO can't find the door key!

    I could help you out with door locks. PM me if interested
    Jo

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renpete
    Yeah,
    You don't know how lucky you are in Melbourne with Pickapart. Aside from getting good stuff, the value of dismantling to get the bits is that you learn a hell of a lot more than you can from a manual. Canberra is hopeless

    I have a spare set of R25 discs, so I'll consider the change down the track. Have to get the B thing going first so I can move it from the carpark at work. Can't even lock it as the PO can't find the door key!

    Just an update and an insight on the mentality of some mechanics. I got the car going on Sat - just turned the key & it started first shot - don't know why it wouldn't start before - possibly I flooded the carby

    However, it idled roughly as though it was going from 4 to 3 cylinders. Replaced the spark plugs & found out that the mechanic the PO used had replaced nos 1, 2 & 4 plugs, but not no. 3 which is a pain to get at. It was pretty stuffed & probably hadn't been changed for years if at all. Guess the mechanic decided that it was all too hard but probably charged her for a full set of new plugs.

    Replaced the old SEV dizzy with a Ducellier from a R25 & it works fine. The SEV one wasn't too bad considering its age, and I'll try to find some replacement seals - wouldn't surprise me if the Ducellier ones fit. The SEV dizzy has a translucent cap so you can see the lightning display inside at night.

    The downside of getting the car going was that the clutch slips under full power esp in the higher gears- tried backing off the very tight cable but only made a slight improvement. No signs of oil leaking from around the g'box/ rear of engine, so I guess the plate is just worn out. Can't say I'm looking forward to relpacing the clutch. Any traps to avoid or tricks to make the job easier? Also the cooling fan doesn't switch on so the temp rises to near the red at long traffic light stops - drops down to normal once driving. Tried turning the a/c on to get both fans going, but no response from them. Don't know what to expect as the PO said her mechanic had done some work of the fans - hope its not like the spark plug effort.

    Renpete

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    Default I'll give the experts a go Renpete

    Quote Originally Posted by Renpete
    Just an update and an insight on the mentality of some mechanics. I got the car going on Sat - just turned the key & it started first shot - don't know why it wouldn't start before - possibly I flooded the carby

    However, it idled roughly as though it was going from 4 to 3 cylinders. Replaced the spark plugs & found out that the mechanic the PO used had replaced nos 1, 2 & 4 plugs, but not no. 3 which is a pain to get at. It was pretty stuffed & probably hadn't been changed for years if at all. Guess the mechanic decided that it was all too hard but probably charged her for a full set of new plugs.

    Replaced the old SEV dizzy with a Ducellier from a R25 & it works fine. The SEV one wasn't too bad considering its age, and I'll try to find some replacement seals - wouldn't surprise me if the Ducellier ones fit. The SEV dizzy has a translucent cap so you can see the lightning display inside at night.

    The downside of getting the car going was that the clutch slips under full power esp in the higher gears- tried backing off the very tight cable but only made a slight improvement. No signs of oil leaking from around the g'box/ rear of engine, so I guess the plate is just worn out. Can't say I'm looking forward to relpacing the clutch. Any traps to avoid or tricks to make the job easier? Also the cooling fan doesn't switch on so the temp rises to near the red at long traffic light stops - drops down to normal once driving. Tried turning the a/c on to get both fans going, but no response from them. Don't know what to expect as the PO said her mechanic had done some work of the fans - hope its not like the spark plug effort.

    Renpete
    Renpete

    Those parts should be obtainable S/H especially the fans, Ive never had a slipping clutch guess that oil has got onto it, so will probably need a new seal.

    Its a fair job to replace the clutch, and the first one I did, it didn't seat properly, probably because of a bent clutch arm (Ken at Carravelle has new ones) there are a few tricks to make the job easier, but at this stage I'll leave it to the experts (professionals!!) to pass on their tips to you. If you don't get any let me know and I will go through what I have learned since then.

    Ken also has radiator temp switches that operate the two fans at a slightly lower temp than the original Fuego ones ( pug I think) and that is a worthwhile modification when you get your fan wiring sorted out.

    Regards
    Ken

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Default Fuego cooling

    I believe one of two conditions need to be met before the thermo's come on.Either the thermal swith on the lower side of the drivers side radiator end tank must be swithched with heat, or the aircon is swithed on.
    When everything is working fine, the threshold that the switch cuts in appears to be marginly higher than the thermostat opening temp.Thus,when the system is working properly, the fans swith on and off often.
    If your radiator is blocked or just not working properly, or you water pump is not powerful enough,or whatever other reason, the water in the radiator will just not be hot enought to trip the switch ,and by the time it does switch, the motor is cooking, and fans wont be able to do their job anyway because not enough water is flowing.Lowering the threshold of the switch in this scenario will just give you a false sence of security,and appear to fix the prob, but in reality the fuego will shit itself on the next heatwave uphill traffic jam!
    PM me if you want some old fans/thermo switches and radiators, as I have a few that I need to get rid of.The one on my car now,that I know works pretty well,will also be coming off soon,to be replaced by a rebuilt one.
    Regards,Jo

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    Default Alway nice clean and green!!

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi
    I believe one of two conditions need to be met before the thermo's come on.Either the thermal swith on the lower side of the drivers side radiator end tank must be swithched with heat, or the aircon is swithed on.
    When everything is working fine, the threshold that the switch cuts in appears to be marginly higher than the thermostat opening temp.Thus,when the system is working properly, the fans swith on and off often.
    If your radiator is blocked or just not working properly, or you water pump is not powerful enough,or whatever other reason, the water in the radiator will just not be hot enought to trip the switch ,and by the time it does switch, the motor is cooking, and fans wont be able to do their job anyway because not enough water is flowing.Lowering the threshold of the switch in this scenario will just give you a false sence of security,and appear to fix the prob, but in reality the fuego will shit itself on the next heatwave uphill traffic jam!
    PM me if you want some old fans/thermo switches and radiators, as I have a few that I need to get rid of.The one on my car now,that I know works pretty well,will also be coming off soon,to be replaced by a rebuilt one.
    Regards,Jo
    Jo
    Thats why I always give any car a good flush through the system and replace with demineralized water in the coolant system and I use good quality Nulon water conditioner/additive - costs virtually nothing in terms of keeping your Fuego in top nick.

    Most overheating is traced to a pressure leak in the system or failure to(Bleed) get rid of pockets of air trapped in the engine etc, a leaking water pump will quickly overheat the system due to loss of coolant and pressure and inoperative coolling fans.

    Must get to my car and give it a good strip down and some routine maintenance and minor repairs. (Got to put the tank back in Australdi's car first!!)

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego
    Jo
    Thats why I always give any car a good flush through the system and replace with demineralized water in the coolant system and I use good quality Nulon water conditioner/additive - costs virtually nothing in terms of keeping your Fuego in top nick.

    Most overheating is traced to a pressure leak in the system or failure to(Bleed) get rid of pockets of air trapped in the engine etc, a leaking water pump will quickly overheat the system due to loss of coolant and pressure and inoperative coolling fans.

    Must get to my car and give it a good strip down and some routine maintenance and minor repairs. (Got to put the tank back in Australdi's car first!!)
    Thanks Jo & Ken,

    I suspect the wiring or the switch. The PO said that her mechanic had moved one fan "to stop a rattling noise". And there is a new bolt at the top about 2 cm from the original hole. If his work is like the sparkplug relacement, he probably has stopped the rattling by either stuffing up the wiring or the thermoswitch on the radiator is faulty or the connections corroded. Simple really I suppose, if the fan doesn't work it won't rattle!

    Got a new thermoswitch for a Fuego once to cure a similar problem only to find out when I removed the old one that a radiator repairer had given the radiator, including the switch, such a good coat of black paint that there was no electrical connection, even after I had removed & replaced the wires on the terminals. When I cleaned all the paint + gunk from the terminals, the switch worked fine. Still have it so will check the system out on the weekend.

    Renpete

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