Scenic RX4 schedule services
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Default Scenic RX4 schedule services

    Think I'll start a seperate thread for this one.


    Sandgroper,(and others).......How detailed is the Haynes manual. I obtained a copy of the dialogy CD's yesterday and will have a good look at it today hopefully.

    I have to get my Scenic serviced soon as it's at 100,680kms now. Highish milage for a 2001 car but ti's got all records for services and it drives well enough to suggest the same, doesn't pull off-line under braking or anything like that and tracks straight too. The tyres are wearing evenly too so I am more than happy
    I have the oil(Elf 10w-40 semi-synth), and a filter. I will change the coolant too, and look at all other fluids whilst I am at it, just to save me a few $$.(know I have said I will have time for other thigns now with a garage full of late model cars but I can still save a few$$ here and there, why pay for someone to change oil.)
    I will not tackle the timing belt though as I don't want to tempt fate.
    Cheers and thanks again,
    Chris

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    2001 Rx-4 Privilege
    R17TL, 1973
    R20TS x 3
    R18 GTS wagon x 2
    R10





    "When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights" - Wayne Bell

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Scenic RX4 schedule services

    Quote Originally Posted by HONG KONG PUGGY
    Think I'll start a seperate thread for this one.

    Cheers and thanks again,
    Chris
    Concur your last over!

    We do need to dedicate a thread to this topic as there will be a lot of RX4’s out there coming out of warranty owned by folks that may try a dab hand at servicing, so little servicing info is out there about the RX4 ( the only workshop manual for the RX4 is published by Renault – I couldn’t get my hands on a factory one ) plus, T'was a bit rude to steal Ron’s thread.

    Haynes is typically trying to be all things to all the variants of the Scenic and in my opinion they failed dismally. (for the 4x4 variant anyway).

    Covers the following engines
    E7J 765 1.4Ltr
    K4J 750 1.4Ltr 16v
    K4M 70 & 701 1.6 16v
    F4R 740 & 741 2.0 16v
    F9Q 1.9Ltr dci Diesel

    Now that’s a broad spread but luckily the timing belt section for the F4R 2.0 Ltr runs over six pages and is pretty good in stepping you through the change out. Wouldn’t try it unless you had a decent workshop (garage/shed) with decent tools as it’s not a simple procedure. I unfortunately will not give it a go this first time around (65,000k’s) as the plans for my new workshop are still at council awaiting approval. With the shortage of building trades I won’t be doing anything more complex that changing fluids, plugs etc this side of Christmas. You go for it but be sure to buy a new sump plug washer ( 20c ), fluids are easy enough to change, suggest that you do both the gearbox and the rear tranny ASAP. These need to be looked after, I remember the three Renault Sponsored French guys that drove around the World in their RX4 in 2002 rear seals on theirs snuffed it and I’m not sure they made the last leg through North America. Wish I had copied that lot to disc before they took the Website down. They had a nice looking skid tray to protect the O2 sensor and the prop shaft.

    Glad to hear that your car is sweet, your lucky the thing tracks straight, ours was a psyco from the day it was delivered. Took it back three times ( at my cost thank you ) to try and sort it out. I walked away from that dealer forever when I took it to a well respected tyre fitter close by. It was never set correctly from factory or the dealers 3 attempts and I still have the tyres to prove it.

    As an aside I put some Dunlop Lemans RV’s on and watched as he set them to factory specs. Did 10 thousand Km and the outside shoulder was worn excessively. Gave it a bit extra toe out and that fixed it.

    I will put some thought into a matrix and some sort of photo guide at the next change.

    Oh yeah you'll need six Ltrs of engine oil

    Yours Aye

    Sandgoper
    Last edited by sandgroper; 13th November 2005 at 01:21 AM. Reason: can't spell for quids
    93' 205GTi
    'don't force it son - use a bigger hammer'

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Thanks for all that.
    I doubt I will be doing the belt change myself. 65000k?? I thought it was a 100,000km belt change. I did see the tech manual gave a kit with tensioners for the belt change though. I am fairly sure also that there is an auxillary drive belt required this time at 100,000km.
    I will tackle fluids though, oil and colant and check the other levels, but do the changes when they are due if all checks prove OK, as I don't want the service records out of kilter with the recommendations as that'd be too many questions if I ever go to sell it. What colour coolant was in yours from factory?
    The dialogys cd will be very handy I think, it's got verything you need to do all the work on lots of renaults from recent years. I managed to get a bit of a look at it yesterday before the comp I was using died. It has all w/shop proceedures, parts lists etc that you could need. I got my copy form a friend, I am sure they are on Ebay all the time. Well wortht he $$ I think because of the fact you can just print out the page you need and take it and get it greasy and throw it away.
    I have one link to the guys from the epic trip,
    http://www.renault.com/print_gb/passion/tour_etape1.htm
    It isn't great because you can't enlarge the pix but it gives an insight. I haven't read it all yet though but what a journey. Says volumes about the RX4's capabilities though. It'sa wonder the 'toy' makers didn't send out a Rav4 in competition
    Are you using ELF oils. I got a price form the supplier here the other day and the 10w-40 was better price per litre than any other quotes I could get. $5/L form memory, can't find the piece of paper I wrote it down on at the present.

    Cheers
    Chris.
    Last edited by HONG KONG PUGGY; 13th November 2005 at 01:35 PM.
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    Previous

    2001 Rx-4 Privilege
    R17TL, 1973
    R20TS x 3
    R18 GTS wagon x 2
    R10





    "When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights" - Wayne Bell

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Scenic RX4 shedule services

    Sorry,

    I meant that the wife’s car was currently at 65,000 and by the time the ‘shed’ was finished it would be over the service interval I would like to do it at. The Haynes recommends 60,000, the factory handbook says 100,000 – I’m looking at doing it soon. Would love to get my hands on the dialogys CD ( PM me )


    Cambelt Kits
    Why should you get a Cambelt Kit? There is much confusion on this issue and it's easy to get caught out and end up forking out lots of money. Online parts places like GSF and Euro call the idlers and tensioners upper and lower tensioners.

    The best place to get the kit from is Renault. You might be able to source it cheaper through others; you might not. It will probably cost you more if you buy them separately and it will cost even more if you don't bother and the belt goes because a tensioner or idler seizes up. Yep auxiliary drive belt requires changing at same time as timing belt

    For the F4R's you want: 77 01 474 019 KIT DISTRIBUTION

    Official replacement time is every 4 years/100,000 kms, whichever comes first. This is frankly stupid IMHO, given the risk of failure.

    I did lot of time off road in VW based buggies and the trailing arm suspension is perfect for the job. The sub frame trailing arm setup on the RX4 looks bullet proof, I know what you mean by ‘Toys’ I got a few shirts dirty getting under the cars when we were looking at all the Soft Roaders on the Aussie market in 2001. Didn’t think much of the Toyota and was ‘horrified’ by the lower lateral links on the Honda CRV, even today when I follow one down the road they just scream out ‘stupid’.

    Got three 20Ltr drums (6Ltr x 10 changes) of Elf Excellium off Ashley from Onshore Oils up your way. I change out every 5,000Kms - ( some may say that’s wasteful but I got it so cheep I don’t care ). Factory coolant is pale ale yellow in ours ( now old & time to drain, what should I replace it with) that ‘organic enviro’ stuff sounds like garbage.

    Good news is I did save some of the pics from the RX4 Around the World

    Here’s the skid plate. – not sure that I would use that over here in WA as the amount of chaff / dry grass that would end up trapped between the floor pan and the plate would be bound to start a fire around the exhaust.

    Yours Aye

    Sandgroper
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scenic RX4 schedule services-rx4-skid-plate.jpg  
    93' 205GTi
    'don't force it son - use a bigger hammer'

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandgroper
    I did lot of time off road in VW based buggies and the trailing arm suspension is perfect for the job. The sub frame trailing arm setup on the RX4 looks bullet proof, I know what you mean by ‘Toys’ I got a few shirts dirty getting under the cars when we were looking at all the Soft Roaders on the Aussie market in 2001. Didn’t think much of the Toyota and was ‘horrified’ by the lower lateral links on the Honda CRV, even today when I follow one down the road they just scream out ‘stupid’.
    I found this with the R20's I ahd years ago too, so over-engineered it wasn't funny, but ti was a good thing as they were bullet proof too.

    Cheers for the kit numbers.

    Chris
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    Previous

    2001 Rx-4 Privilege
    R17TL, 1973
    R20TS x 3
    R18 GTS wagon x 2
    R10





    "When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights" - Wayne Bell

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    Hi
    Just reading through. re coolant.
    The main problem you have is not the colour or what ever, it is the makeup of the mix. I got caught a few years ago because if you put the wrong mix in, it will destroy any aluminium parts in the system within about 3 months. This is due to the chemical reactions that can be setup.

    Being from Europe it is almost certain that the original coolant is high in Glycol content for anti freeze protection. The problem with Glycol based coolant is it detiorates over time and becomes acid. Normally it changes to a straw colour and also gets a distinctive smell. Unless you are in cold climate area, may be no need for antifreeze but also glycol has anti boil characteristics as well so, may be worth sticking with the glycol based formulations, they are also mostly more readily available. The answer is to read the label for makeup, providing they are glycol based they are likely to be compatible.
    The MAIN thing, to be sure, is to make sure you FLUSH the cooling system WELL when you drain it before adding the new coolant to ensure there is no chemical reaction. I know from bitter experience the cost invloved in replacement of parts such as cylinder head, water pump etc made from aluminium.

    Also would STRONGLY suggest that change of cam belts earlier rather than later is good insurance as the costs involved with failure on most engines is HUGE I am NOT convinced of the advantages of belts as the old cam chains virtually lasted forever and also you got some warning from noise etc if things were not right. Lots of manufacturers are still using chains.
    Last edited by FrogEss; 13th November 2005 at 11:30 PM.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Thanks Frogess,
    I was asking about coolant colour because the overflow bottle in mine is a little light on for any colour at all. I ahve to do a coolant flush/change ASAP to fix this. Our mechanic is using Tectaloy in our Citroen and I have a good supply of it here, having changed form Nulon recently because I am sure the mix form Nulon I was using had changed because the tiem intervals they used had dropped significantly.
    2016 Renault Sport Clio Cup EDC 200



    Previous

    2001 Rx-4 Privilege
    R17TL, 1973
    R20TS x 3
    R18 GTS wagon x 2
    R10





    "When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights" - Wayne Bell

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Yes Tectaloy and all the "normally' available coolants are definately glcol based, but ALWAYS to be sure flush the system well with water before putting new coolant in, then no problem.

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