Fuegos. Fixes and Modifications?
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  1. #1
    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    Icon6 Fuegos. Fixes and Modifications?

    Hey all,
    I have had a fuego for about 2years now on my Ps and it has survived and turned out to be a great little car. I am now about to go on holidays for 3+ months with a trip to Queensland in there.
    I would like to spend some money on my car to make it look better(teenager here :-) ) and run better.
    At the moment I have a few minor problems with my car.
    1. Squeal from the pulley that my AC and alternator attaches too
    2. A crack in my Exhaust manifold that gives off a put-put noise making the engine sound very very bad
    3. A clicking noise when I have full steering lock on when turning a corner under power

    Point 1 is this pulley able to be tightened or is there something else wrong. I have changed the belts and they made no difference so I assume it is something to with the pulley it self. Squeal only happens on cold nights or in the rain.

    Point 2, I am planning on getting the manifold of the R25 and getting the down pipe made by the local exhaust place. Does this give good results, ie will I lose power or have any problems with bolting the R25 manifold on? the loss of the heat pipe thingo wont cause problems cause i would like to the the choke mod and get a pod filter

    Point 3, I have no idea what is causing the clicking noise. The power steering is reservoir is full. Could it be my drive shafts cause the section that is supposed to be covered in rubber and oil, has lost all its oil cause of cracks in the rubber.

    I am also planning to get koni shockers for the car and trim the bottom off them to lower the car. I also heard about some new springs that are available pre cut to lower the fuego, has anyone heard of them and if so is the fuego still drive able over speed bumps and the likes with out going 5km/h also how much r they.

    I am looking at doing the electric choke mod and the air filter replacement as well as getting the car windows tinted(was quoted $400, cause the rear window was supposedly very hard to tint! Does this sound right?)

    If anyone has any suggestions on what I should do or shouldn’t do I would love to get them.

    __________________________________________________ ____________
    Its soo much fun telling ppl that my car is better that theirs even though mine is 20years old! Old cars FTW, but modifications are sooooooo much fun!

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  2. #2
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DragoN
    Hey all,
    1. Squeal from the pulley that my AC and alternator attaches too
    2. A crack in my Exhaust manifold that gives off a put-put noise making the engine sound very very bad
    3. A clicking noise when I have full steering lock on when turning a corner under power
    Hi Drago,

    As for points 1 and 3, I will leave comment to other froggys to give you more sound advice...


    1. More than likely your looking at replacement bearings at a guess... Maybe easier to get one from pull-a-part, but not sure if your aircon would need a re-gass.

    3. CV boots split = worn CV joint. Dirt and grit gets in, and oil gets out. You will need a new one for sure, maybe 2 depending... the knocking is the play in the worn (uni / CV) joint.

    David.

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  3. #3
    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    thanks,
    With the bearings does anyone know how much they would cost? would i be better off getting them from caravelle or something cause it would cost(money or time) for a wreacker or me to find the part and get it out of the car. And as to the air con i need to re-gas it cause it has a leak :-(

    Yeah i asked caravelle about new shafts and he said $125 or $175 each....i cant remember. so i will prob do that seeing as i want ot sell it with a roadworthy in a few years so i might as well get some use out of them. And from what Ken fuego has said( i think it was him) it is pretty easy job to replace. Seeing as i am changing the shockers anyway.

  4. #4
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Once you have the hub from the wheel (It is tightened up pretty hard, check how tight you will need to put it back on.) its pretty straight forward.

    Re aircon condenser bearings, you might find it cheaper to source a spare good one, I am not sure that is the problem, but I know of a few off hand that are destined to be tracked, that owners wont be requiring aircon. If you haven't already it is probably worth putting a "WANTED" on this forum.

    Do you have a manual for your Fuego?

    There are a few places you could get things like an exhaust manifold rather than go the 25, I am not sure of (if) any benefits. Make sure you dont have any intake manifold leaks, although its an impressive combo if you have a hot-dog type of exhaust, as you will have flames out the back.

    Kenfuego is a great source of expertese and knowledge working with these cars, and there are a few of us enthusiast here that could suggest some other mods, like replacement gearbox mounts.

    If you do a search for Fuego you should find quite a bit of information and ideas for some improvements and performance mods.

    Happy Fuego'ing

    David.
    Last edited by vivid; 30th October 2005 at 05:55 PM.
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    Hi DragonN,
    If the noisy belt is the correct on and the correct tension then just spray some belt grip on, also assuming there is no excessive force needed to drive the auxillery.
    If you lower the car then make sure the alignment (caster,camber,toe) is put back to factory specs or you will have uneven tyre wear and worse handling. Don't second guess the factory engineering specs on this unless you are a specialist on handling mods.
    Obviously no use regassin the A/C until the leak is fixed.
    Prior to changing a wheel bearing lift the car and spinn the wheel, then grab it top and bottom and rock in and out to check for movement. If it's rumbling when spinning and or has movment then change the bearing.
    Enjoy

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivid
    Do you have a manual for your Fuego?
    If you don't i have a brand new one floating around somewhere.
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Ren25's Avatar
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    The squeal from the front crankshaft pulley is likely to be the inner bit separating from the outer. they are joined by a strip of rubber to form a harmonic balancer.
    When they separate the inner goes around but the outer doesn't. This will get worse over time. My R25 got to the stage where I had no power steering, and the voice warning was going off his face with "electrical system malfunction, stop engine immediatly". The fix is to replace this two piece pulley with a one piece steel jobby. These are available, as mine only happened about 6 months ago and Laurie from Renwreck in Perth had the part in stock, it's a common fault apparently
    Cheers
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  8. #8
    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    This is fun getting all the info from u guys....very very usefull, thanks

    As to the exhaust manifold i have been told that fuego manifolds always crack where mine is cracked and because of this i looked into getting one made up($500 atleast :-( ) or going the 25 way. so i thinks i will go the 25 way if it does not cause any problems to the car.

    For the squeal i think Ren25 might have the write idea. i used a pipe tube to track the source of the sound and it is definatly the crankshaft pulley so i will try some local reno wreckers and caravelle and see what they say about the one piece steel pulley.

    I also have a manual floating around but seeing as i went a way for a bit and it got packed up i havent been able to find it....i ll prob find it right after i have fixed everything i can think of, lol.

    As to leaks on my intake manifold, How do u test for them, it is just by sight or is there a special way to do it?...Flames out my exhaust....COOL, but prob not good for my engine =(

    With the lowering of the car has anyone heard of the precut springs and where they are from, also how much do they lower the car by. i remembeer seeing a post on them but cant find them using search for some reason.

    i am looking through the old threads now using search. i ll see what i come up with

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    Quote Originally Posted by DragoN
    This is fun getting all the info from u guys....very very usefull, thanks

    As to the exhaust manifold i have been told that fuego manifolds always crack where mine is cracked and because of this i looked into getting one made up($500 atleast :-( ) or going the 25 way. so i thinks i will go the 25 way if it does not cause any problems to the car.

    For the squeal i think Ren25 might have the write idea. i used a pipe tube to track the source of the sound and it is definatly the crankshaft pulley so i will try some local reno wreckers and caravelle and see what they say about the one piece steel pulley.

    I also have a manual floating around but seeing as i went a way for a bit and it got packed up i havent been able to find it....i ll prob find it right after i have fixed everything i can think of, lol.

    As to leaks on my intake manifold, How do u test for them, it is just by sight or is there a special way to do it?...Flames out my exhaust....COOL, but prob not good for my engine =(

    With the lowering of the car has anyone heard of the precut springs and where they are from, also how much do they lower the car by. i remembeer seeing a post on them but cant find them using search for some reason.

    i am looking through the old threads now using search. i ll see what i come up with
    The R25 manifold is very similar in design to the Fuego and are just as prone to cracking...

    A Pug Ser II 505Gti manifold will fit with a new engine pipe and doesn't seem to affect power much (if at all)

    I am under the impression that a Fuego runs a single piece pulley and the squeel is probably from the belt itself, as the pulleys gets a bit grooved and glazed with time...

    You can get belts that have a v shaped pattern on the drive surface and these appear to be alot quieter...

    Any spring should be the same spring rate as standard. I think by pre cut you mean pre made...

    I would just get your standard springs removed and reset about 1.0 inche lower (once you allow for the preload, this will be about 0.50 of an inch when installed) which will lower the car by close to an inch (.5 of an inch at the wishbone will = almost 1 inch at the wheel)

    This will alow you to keep the standard springs and dampers and maintain your current ride/handling...

    I wouldn't lower your car more than an inch - 1.5 inches (at the wheel) as you will start to run out of compression travel...

    BTW, has it been running alright since you fixed the head after you snapped the cam belt?

  10. #10
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    Default Fuego manifolds etc

    DragoN

    The power steering model manifolds seem to have slightly better cast fillets and resist cracking, however I have seen a couple of those with cracking also.

    I am pretty sure that these cracks can be repaired - firstly drill a small hole at the end of the crack and with the manifold off the car and average welder could bronze fill the crack site - a better repair would be to take it to a person who can weld cast iron - they heat the cast iron to a red heat and then use a soft cast iron rod to repair the crack - the round drill hole de-stresses the crack area and providing the manifold is cooled slowly no new cracks should develop.

    After welding it is essential that all mating faces are true to the block and may need flycutting to ensure they mate up correctly and fit new gaskets.

    If welding seems a bit of a rigmarole,then just drill the hole at the end of the crack and use a heatstable exhaust epoxy to patch the area - some of the modern epoxies will never shift and you lose little in attempting this repair.

    In the past whenever I found a Fuego in Pick-a-part I would check the exhaust manifold and if it was uncracked I would remove it - that also is an option, but it still may crack in service easy to replace and if it isn't then you learn to put a bit of graphite grease on the stud threads to make it easier in the future if you have to take it off again!

    I have to put a new flange gasket on my car soon as it has been popping on overrun for some time as it sucks in air - you can actually see the discolouration from the leaking flange gasket.

    On the squealing belt, this is usually adjustment of the alternator belt, and as the cars get older there is a few oil leaks and in wet weather, the mix of water and oil causes slipping - if you didn't replace your aircon belt when you last did your water pump or cam belt, this could also be a source of slipping/squealing. All Fuegos I have seen have the metal crank shaft pulley.

    Front end - its worth having a good look at Mistarennos car and the conversion to using R25 struts brake discs etc that he is refining, and I would definately consider his front of engine mounting conversion as this will take lateral pressure off the side engine mounts under hard cornering (a Mistarenno speciality )

    Clicking especially on turning - Go to a car park and do a slow turn in a circle left and right - clicking on either turn indicates worn half shafts and the factory refurbished from Ken at Caravelle will fix this - not hard to do and get yourself new roll pins from ken to replace with the new half shafts - seal the ends (roll pin holes) with a dab of silicone sealant as per the manual.

    Aircon - most likely the aluminium condenser at the front of the radiator is probably leaking -source a good s/hand replacement (I don't think new ones are available, but there might be an aftermarket one that may fit) also good second hand compressor units are around (about $20) and new Sanden used to be about $200 - Jobo may be able to help you with information as to where to source new seals and type of gas etc, or a new drier if needed - other thing would be to take it to an aircon specialist where they will leak test the system and give you a quote on fixing same..

    Choke mod - Good way to go as per Mistarennos fix for this.

    Tinting - Fuego already has lightly tinted window glass (mostly) though there are some without but if you want carlton crew dark shades, make sure it is done well as bubbling and peeling tint looks shiiiiiite. especially on the rear hatch

    Hope that helps

    Ken

  11. #11
    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    Sweet more replys!
    Mistareno u recomend a Pug Ser II 505Gti manifold over the R25 one, i ll source one of them and use that, sonds better than putting a 25 on and having it cracks again.

    As to kens idea about getting it welded, i looked in to getting that done when i had the head off and waiting to fix it. The weilder said that it would cost $200+ cause all of the extra work involved in removing the enviro stuff and getting it all appart with out problems so i did not go that way(cause it could crack again at any stage).

    I drilled at either end of the gap and tried 2 different puttys and neither stayed for long then i tried getting it welded and that only stayed for a week =(.

    But yeah replacing the valve was easy when i realised that was what my problem thanks to u Mistareno. Got the head shaved to clean it up so the car seemes to be a bit faster, prob my imagination but i can dream.

    With the frount end, i keep reading about the mods that Mistareno keeps doing but i always seem to only get half the story with the search function and it is takeing me a while to read thru all the posts on fuegos to get the full story. But yeah i have to say they sound like fun =).

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Re belt slip,My fuego was starting to hint at making squeeky belt noises, so I wasted the better part of twent bucks on a tin of belt stick.I cant describe the racket that it made after one aplication, but it was increadably noisy,to the point were I thought something would blow up.I rushed down to the shed to get my trusty heavy duty lanolin spray, and gave them a quick coat and serentity prevails as long as they get a squirt every few month.
    re konis..Good luck as they are no longer made, but there are some on ebay from time to time.I've just sufered the protracted procces of having a set re-built and after installing on the car can only say that something is wrong.Almost without exception, any front end mod I've done that deviated from factory spec has represented a drop in performance,with the obvious exception being changing from TRX.Unless you shockies are shot,I'd be leaving them as they are.
    Re manifold.Check the heater hose that runs along the manifold. A metal tube conects into a ruber pipe, which because of its proximity to the exhaust manifold, will crack in time and if you manifold wasn't cracked before,it almost certainly will be after a split.Mine have always burst after extreme engine load,when the manifoldis at its hottest.
    Jo

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    Default Welding cast iron

    Most "welders" these days do not gas weld cast iron, its almost a lost art - I only quote the welding for those that might either have the expertise themselves or have a mate or friend that will do it as to find a place that will do it commercially at a reasonable price would be nigh on impossible.

    If push came to shove and I didn't have an uncracked manifold to replace a cracked one, I would have a go myself, as I have the oxy acetylene gear - if your repair fails, you really haven't lost anything as it was stuffed anyway and if it holds you have gained valuable experience.

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    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Agreed, shop around, you should be able to get cheaper.

    Might find it better to use an exhaust specialist to do the welding.. I payed $20 for a hole in the exhaust on my 16 to be welded shut.

    I would also suggest a 'straight through' exhaust like a hotdog. Initially I got one because of an intake leak blowing up mufflers, but when that was fixed, I didn't want to lose the sound I had grown accustomed to.

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    Default Cast Iron manifolds

    Have got a R25 & a Fuego.

    Both have the same exhaust manifold, both suffer from the same crack at the rear web between cyl 1 & 2. Although the material looks like cast iron it is most likely cast steel. I stand to be corrected but it doesn't appear to have the grainy structure of C.I.

    The two manifolds I have repaired have been done like this:
    Clean with wire brush on a angle grinder, heat with oxy - not till it changes colour, just enough to get heat into it, mig weld on low amps and allow to cool at its own pace.

    A lot easier to do and just as strong as brazing.

    Have fun - David

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    Fellow Frogger! Westair's Avatar
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    Has anyone had proper extractors made?- must be a design out there somewhere-possibly Argentina.
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  17. #17
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    DragoN, This is worth a look...

    JYDog just posted this. He has done some interesting mods to his Fuego (which I have seen) Nice job too, sounds great!

    Fuego at crossroads!
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    Re. lowering the front suspension and not adjusting camber, castor and toe to factory specs. Please,someone tell me that i'm wrong and why?
    JoBo

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoBo
    Re. lowering the front suspension and not adjusting camber, castor and toe to factory specs. Please,someone tell me that i'm wrong and why?
    JoBo
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or not?

    Yes, it is very important to ensure the wheel alignment is reset when the vehicle is lowered (unless you have shares in Dunlop) but Camber is technically unadjustable so that leaves toe and castor...

    FWIW, I run my car at 0-0.5 toe in to reduce tramlining (factory says 0.5 toe out from memory). As turn in is far better with low profile tyres the toe out isn't quite so critical for initial turn in response...

    I run the standard Power Steering castor setting (more than non Power Steering)

  20. #20
    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    With the JYDog stuff.....DROOL =)

    I would love to do that and it sounds like fun but i think i will have to do my drive shafts and suspension first cause i am really noticing a difference to my ride since i got the car and it has been getting worse recently.

    But otherwise if the twin webber path only costs $650+250 then i would be willing to do it if i did not have to do anything to the head(i recently busted a valve so i have had the head shaved and the valves re seated, all put back together with a new gasket). But to do something like this i might need some help from anyone car mechanicaly minded. I am no car mechanic by a long shot, i can pull a head apart with ease if i have a book to read from, but doing something like that from scratch i would be over my head.

    I wonder how much of a improvement to the car that twin webber mod would have =) any ideas on that?

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    Default Just my assumption

    Quote Originally Posted by 85Fuego
    Have got a R25 & a Fuego.

    Both have the same exhaust manifold, both suffer from the same crack at the rear web between cyl 1 & 2. Although the material looks like cast iron it is most likely cast steel. I stand to be corrected but it doesn't appear to have the grainy structure of C.I.

    The two manifolds I have repaired have been done like this:
    Clean with wire brush on a angle grinder, heat with oxy - not till it changes colour, just enough to get heat into it, mig weld on low amps and allow to cool at its own pace.

    A lot easier to do and just as strong as brazing.

    Have fun - David
    David

    You could be right - haven't really filed or cut into one yet, just assumed it would be cast iron - No problems

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    Quote Originally Posted by DragoN
    I wonder how much of a improvement to the car that twin webber mod would have =) any ideas on that?
    I think the only thing that would improve in general would be the profits of the oil companies, and the economy from paying getting the carbies fitted and sorted.

    I've got the wet blanket here, but to do it properly would cost a lot more than $900. You may be very lucky to get all the parts for that price, but the fitting, experimenting and sorting would be on top of that, as well, there would probably be engine mods required to get the best from the carbies.

    Poorly sorted Webers are a good way of using a lot of petrol, very quickly, for no gain.

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    Member DragoN's Avatar
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    Rats.....sounded too good to be true. But then he did spend $800 on the engine head, plus seeing as he made his exhaust stuff him self i would assume he is a hell of a lot better at working on cars than i am so the tinkering part would be easier for him. Ohwell i ll just fix the car up and do some cosmetics. I ll see what happens in the future as to wheather i have money to do a mod like this later on.

    Thanks to everyone that replied to the thread. lots of very very helpfull info
    Last edited by DragoN; 1st November 2005 at 12:51 AM.

  24. #24
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    Someone asked about full extractors....I enquired about these years ago, & was told by a renault mechanic I trust, that it would be for little gain, as the "half extractor" set up of the fuego is incredibly efficent. I did have a hotdog replace the rear muffler & the note is simply beautiful..can't wait to get one on my current car!
    I believe mistareno has tuned his exhaust manifold a little...& his car does seem to have a bit more power than my current one, although if it were up against my original fuego ( the most torquey one I have ever driven) I doubt he'd easily leave me behind, apart from superiour driving skills...
    man! if only I had my current wheels & tyres on that first fuego when it was running at it's prime! ....one day....

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    The bottom is the area that runs out of oxygen first, it is where the most oxygen is used........"



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  25. #25
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    But otherwise if the twin webber path only costs $650+250 then i would be willing to do it if i did not have to do anything to the head(i recently busted a valve so i have had the head shaved and the valves re seated, all put back together with a new gasket). But to do something like this i might need some help from anyone car mechanicaly minded. I am no car mechanic by a long shot, i can pull a head apart with ease if i have a book to read from, but doing something like that from scratch i would be over my head.

    I wonder how much of a improvement to the car that twin webber mod would have =) any ideas on that?[/QUOTE]


    Hi there
    As for twin carbs...i bought a rough motorcana fuego(for parts) a year ago with twin 40mm dellortos. together with the extractors (main reason i got the car) they sound awesome and allow the engine to pull harder through the top end of the rev range. Fuel consumpion on the other hand is quite high...especially if you lead foot it frequently! I still have both the carbies and manifolds boxed if you want to try it but you would need to get a specialist to service them and set them up properly on your engine but would be a lot cheaper than starting with webbers from scratch.
    I have since moved on to the joys of aftermarket fuel injection which has improved responsiveness and fuel economy out of sight.
    Good luck.
    Peter.

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