Ideas making an R10 drivetrain / motor 'quick release'
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  1. #1
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Default Ideas making an R10 drivetrain / motor 'quick release'

    Just a thought, maybe a stupid one.

    When I removed the engine and rear wheels fron the 10S I ended up cutting some of the aluminium brake lines.

    Gave me the thought of putting some sort of valve arrangement on the lines, for easy detatchment without losing brake line pressure. Possible?

    David.

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  2. #2
    Simon's Avatar
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    Wow. Removing that power unit really did give you some headaches. :-)

    So you cut through brake lines (plural?). The only line that would need to be removed is the one going into the proportioning valve. Easy enough to unscrew.

    As for your suggestion, I think there is something for competition applications available, but there is still some bleeding that has to take place when the fluid system is opened.

  3. #3
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    Wow. Removing that power unit really did give you some headaches. :-)

    So you cut through brake lines (plural?). The only line that would need to be removed is the one going into the proportioning valve. Easy enough to unscrew.

    As for your suggestion, I think there is something for competition applications available, but there is still some bleeding that has to take place when the fluid system is opened.
    Thanks Simon,

    I was actually more thinking for the Dauphine, in race conditions.

    Now that i think of it, it wasnt brake lines (plural) i cut the line from the car side of the proportioning valve, as I had a deadline, and the friggin thing wouldnt budge.. Thought it easier another day The car is now sitting back on the motor, and being held in place by a couple of oversized bolts stopping it from all falling at the back.

    So what is the reason behind having to re-bleed, if you could keep the pressure when disconnecting it? If it was 'valved up' surely the system wouldnt be technically open?

    David.
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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivid
    Thanks Simon,

    I was actually more thinking for the Dauphine, in race conditions.

    Now that i think of it, it wasnt brake lines (plural) i cut the line from the car side of the proportioning valve, as I had a deadline, and the friggin thing wouldnt budge.. Thought it easier another day The car is now sitting back on the motor, and being held in place by a couple of oversized bolts stopping it from all falling at the back.

    So what is the reason behind having to re-bleed, if you could keep the pressure when disconnecting it? If it was 'valved up' surely the system wouldnt be technically open?

    David.
    Why bother, the brakes take about 10 minutes to bleed with an empty rear line. just place a bit of glad wrap over the master cylinder reservoir to stop it draining.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! MARK BIRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivid
    Just a thought, maybe a stupid one.

    When I removed the engine and rear wheels fron the 10S I ended up cutting some of the aluminium brake lines.

    Gave me the thought of putting some sort of valve arrangement on the lines, for easy detatchment without losing brake line pressure. Possible?

    David.
    Having worked for Aeroquip at one stage they had a coupling that would do the job with a bit of modification. As they are designed to refuel missiles no loss of fluid is tolerated and can easily handle brake fluid but the limiting factor would be cost and if I remember in 1985 they cost $210.00 each for the small units to do the job. Contact a good hydraulics supplier or Aeroquip in your state to see what they have available now.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    If you need to pull a motor and rear suspension at a race meeting, forget it. Once you have worked on it for a while you will find you get very good at pulling it apart. Simon is right, there is only one line to undo, hardly a major drama.

    I used to pull the gearbox out of my hot 16 powered R8 (13 times)to repair the broken outputs and other bits regularly, and got down to 8 hours to remove, repair and refit, by myself.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    02 and 03 Renault Clios 1.4L
    '13 Renault Megane RS265 Trophee +

  7. #7
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Point taken, just a thought.

    I must admit I should try and unscrew the end of the brake line now its off the car. I had a look before to be sure, and I did only cut one brake line.. car side of the proportioning valve.

    Alan, your 750 must go like a bat out of hell! Is the 16 motor in it stock 16TS, or has it been worked?

    David.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    My 16 motor in the 750 is somewhat modified. Larger valves, ported head, 11 to 1 comp, or thereabouts, 1605cc Gordini pistons, approx 35-75 cam with 435 thou lift and a set of sidedraft Webers and a fairly flash looking exhaust.

    The motor years ago was in my R8, and ran a 14.6 sec 1/4 Mile with soft start to avoid yet another gearbox breakage. I have since got a sorted gearbox, and a 200Kg lighter car (4CV) and I suspect it would run in the 13s now. I have not dynoed it since the rebuild and think that through fuel changes and a different cam, shorter inlet manifolds and different exhaust, it may not be as good as it used to be.

    It ran [email protected] 7200rpm at the wheels on an honest dyno many years ago. last week my Alpine, addmittadly with a big heat soak beforehand and 190 000Klms on it, only ran 130Hp on the same dyno, but certainly with more torque. I am in the process of seeing what I can do about that!!!
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    02 and 03 Renault Clios 1.4L
    '13 Renault Megane RS265 Trophee +

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