Fuego stalls
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Thread: Fuego stalls

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Icon8 Fuego stalls

    Fuego funFuego GTX 2l, weber, electronic RENIX

    Right carrying on from the above...
    The car finally gave up the ghost. Problem is that it idels nicely but stalls as soon as any load comes on the engine. If I rev the engine unloaded to 4000rpm it dies, and will do so as long as I keep the foot on the gas, if I remove my foot from the gas then it returns to idling smoothly...

    The distributor looks fine.
    I've changed the TDC sensor (I haven't managed to recheck yet as I don't have a multimeter (will borrow one soon)).
    The spark plug leads are on their way (don't really think that's the problem though).
    I've changed the electronic ignition module (so maybe the coil, but maybe not, again yet to check with multimeter)...

    It would seem to me to be a condenser (if it had one), or the vacume advance (the hose seems to be fine and is connected etc... maybe the pump jet (but then why does it idle?).

    Agrh!

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  2. #2
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    mistareno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougs
    Fuego funFuego GTX 2l, weber, electronic RENIX

    Right carrying on from the above...
    The car finally gave up the ghost. Problem is that it idels nicely but stalls as soon as any load comes on the engine. If I rev the engine unloaded to 4000rpm it dies, and will do so as long as I keep the foot on the gas, if I remove my foot from the gas then it returns to idling smoothly...

    The distributor looks fine.
    I've changed the TDC sensor (I haven't managed to recheck yet as I don't have a multimeter (will borrow one soon)).
    The spark plug leads are on their way (don't really think that's the problem though).
    I've changed the electronic ignition module (so maybe the coil, but maybe not, again yet to check with multimeter)...

    It would seem to me to be a condenser (if it had one), or the vacume advance (the hose seems to be fine and is connected etc... maybe the pump jet (but then why does it idle?).

    Agrh!
    I'd be thinking that the one of the main jets in the carby (the ones in the fuel bowl) are blocked.

    It will idle OK but as soon as the carb goes from the idle circuit to the main circuit it will die.

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Sounds like a blocked primary jet to me. Try cracking the throttle wide open (it may temparily die, then rev out properly), this is because the 2nd chokes jet is not blocked, so the motor is then running and the carbies 2nd choke.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  4. #4
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    Default Progressive checks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougs
    Fuego funFuego GTX 2l, weber, electronic RENIX

    Right carrying on from the above...
    The car finally gave up the ghost. Problem is that it idels nicely but stalls as soon as any load comes on the engine. If I rev the engine unloaded to 4000rpm it dies, and will do so as long as I keep the foot on the gas, if I remove my foot from the gas then it returns to idling smoothly...

    The distributor looks fine.
    I've changed the TDC sensor (I haven't managed to recheck yet as I don't have a multimeter (will borrow one soon)).
    The spark plug leads are on their way (don't really think that's the problem though).
    I've changed the electronic ignition module (so maybe the coil, but maybe not, again yet to check with multimeter)...

    It would seem to me to be a condenser (if it had one), or the vacume advance (the hose seems to be fine and is connected etc... maybe the pump jet (but then why does it idle?).

    Agrh!
    That sounds like fuel starvation or conversely temp freezing of the carby leading to more than normal ingestion of fuel when choke closes - Mistarenno published an electric fix for that, the Gonz just took the choke flap control out.

    I always ensure the hot air feed tube that goes around the back of the engine is properly connected to the air filter unit base and the hot air flap operates at the bottom of that unit.

    with the top plastic shroud off the carby - does the same thing happen and if you stop the motor and check the float chamber is it full of fuel.

    Another thing could be an electrical fault in either of the two solenoids on the carby - swap for spare ones would be a good indication,

    Are all hoses connected to the carby and is the main terminal to the coil nice and tight as engine movement can pull it free for intermittent sparking.

    Thats probably enough to start with - others may have better ideas.

  5. #5
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    Default Some ideas on carby

    From Weber Carb W manual 77 11 077 955

    {engine starts then stops}
    A. Engine flooded
    1. Clogged air filter – change filter element.
    2. Choke flap part-open setting – check operation and settings of choke flap initial opening after starting.
    3. Fuel level too high, float pierced – check operation of needle valve, change float, adjust fuel level.
    4. Vapour lock in fuel line – check fuel lines for routing clear of any heat source.
    5. Faulty operation of choke flap (cold,hot) - Broken return springs, mechanism gummed up or parts worn, insufficient initial throttle opening.
    B Engine not flooded.
    7 High tension leads crossed – re-connect HT leads in correct firing order.
    8 AEI ignition Change module or sensor.
    9 Fuel pump delivery – incorrect pressures – check condition of pump and measure pressure
    10 Air leak on intake side – check inlet manifold and carburettor gaskets, vacuum unions and circuits, rebreathing circuit calibrated jets, capsule diaphram, throttle spindle clearance.
    11 Carburettor Choke flap opens too quickly or too far ( spring too weak, opening assistance system badly adjusted – Change defective spring, adjust flap opening assistance system.

    Low Power at Constant speed, flat spots during medium acceleration.
    A- Rich mixture (spark plug electrodes black)
    1. Fouled air filter –change filter element
    2. Fuel level too high – adjust fuel level to recommended value
    3. Main jet loose or too large – check that main jet is tight and of correct size.
    4. Air compensating jet too small – check air compensating jet is to specification.
    5. Fuel pressure too high –.Check circuit is to specification change fuel pump.
    6. Caburettor icing up. – check carburettor base re-heating circuit. Distributor flap in winter position .
    7. Fuel level too low – adjust fuel level to recommended value
    8. Main jet too small – check jet is to specification, test with larger jet.
    9. Air compensating jet too large or missing – check jet is to specification, test with smaller jet.
    10. Faulty richness setting – check operation and condition of diaphragm and vacuum circuit.
    11. Insufficient fuel delivery, filter clogged, faulty fuel feed pump – check fuel pressure and delivery, change faulty parts (small gauze filter in fuel carby inlet)
    12. Additional air intake – check vacuum circuit and unions, rfe-breathing circuit calibrated jet, capsule diaphragm, inlet manifold, carburettor gaskets, throttle spindle.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! biologist's Avatar
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    Yep, sounds like a blocked fuel jet,
    I suffered the same symptons once before.
    If its not already there, fit or replace the fuel filter after cleaning the
    fuel jets.

    cheers,
    Biologist
    ----------------
    A
    one Megane Family

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Thanks people.

    I've brought myself another car... Honda Ostia 1996 80k.

    But that means the fuego is in the garage and can be fixed!

    So I'll be checking the jets in the carb and cleaning the fuel filter this weekend.

    Cheers

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