fuego engine mount
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,396

    Default fuego engine mount

    Just cut my first thread ever,whilst fabricating up a MistaReno patented front mount,or my version of it.Thanks for sharing your design.There is a vibration being transmitted now,but as a male,I find it quite pleasurable.My car realy does give me the horn now.
    Jo

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,396

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi
    Just cut my first thread ever,whilst fabricating up a MistaReno patented front mount,or my version of it.Thanks for sharing your design.There is a vibration being transmitted now,but as a male,I find it quite pleasurable.My car realy does give me the horn now.
    Jo
    that vibration was too much, as something behind the dash would resonate between exactly 2 to 3000 rpm.Today I removed the creation and reinstalled with 2 strips of 1mm(ish) rubber mat between the body and the body-bracket,and rubber washers for the bolts that hold the bracket to the body. I drilled out a suspention bush washer, and placed an old bush on the drop link,but didn't have time to find another set for the bottom side.will do that another time. By decoupling the bracket to the body,a lot of the vibration has gone,but the mount still does the trick.I need not be so careful when coming quick off the throttle,like in traffic.I could previously feel the movement in the drive train through the gear stick, but that has all but gone now.
    Jo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fuego engine mount-e-mount.jpg  

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Westair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    558

    Default

    Can't you get a standard mount?
    1986 Renault Fuego GTX
    1972 Mercedes Benz 280E
    1988 Nissan Trakka Campervan
    1972 VW Kombi

    In business, words are words; explanations are explanations, promises are promises, but only performance is reality.
    Harold Ganeen.

  4. #4
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi
    that vibration was too much, as something behind the dash would resonate between exactly 2 to 3000 rpm.Today I removed the creation and reinstalled with 2 strips of 1mm(ish) rubber mat between the body and the body-bracket,and rubber washers for the bolts that hold the bracket to the body. I drilled out a suspention bush washer, and placed an old bush on the drop link,but didn't have time to find another set for the bottom side.will do that another time. By decoupling the bracket to the body,a lot of the vibration has gone,but the mount still does the trick.I need not be so careful when coming quick off the throttle,like in traffic.I could previously feel the movement in the drive train through the gear stick, but that has all but gone now.
    Jo
    You probably made it too short (or to long) and when it is tightened up it takes to much load (either lifting the engine up or pulling it down)

    I made sure that the mount I made was loadless when fully tightened.

    Also be sure that the bolt that goes through the bush is a very loose fit.

    I used an old rather worn sway bar bush and the bolt was actually completely free and didn't really touch the sides from memory.

    There was certainly no more vibration than the original design...

    5 years and still no issues

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,748

    Default

    Maybe its just me, but I was perfectly happy with the stock mount. Tossed a $20 newbie in, and forgot about it. Never had any real longevity issues with it.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  6. #6
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Have a look at the front mount on my car (photo taken quite some time ago by Ken Fuego)
    Fuego Front Mount

    It is not 'loaded' at all...

    Hakkon, the front mount on Fuego's are rather weak and fail reguarly when driven hard and its failure can lead to failures of the other engine and gearbox mounts.

    I've never had a mount break on my car in 150K which is doing Ok for a Fuego (especially considering the driving style I often employ)

    Many Fuego owners also complain about axle tramp if they get wheel spin etc, but I haven't had any issues when at DECA or being driven hard on the road. It spins but still puts the power down smoothly. I think the better control of movement offered helps...

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,748

    Default

    I know all about its supposed flaws, having had 2 Fuegos. Both of them were driven plenty hard enough, but just never had one fail.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  8. #8
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haakon
    I know all about its supposed flaws, having had 2 Fuegos. Both of them were driven plenty hard enough, but just never had one fail.
    I must admit, I never have had one knowingly fail either but when I removed the one from my car (that looked Ok) it fell apart as soon as I unbolted everything...

    They are not designed to take any static load, just to restrict movement, however the non-genuine ones seem to be alot more fragile than the original units.

    I suppose the good thing is that they fail 'safe' in that they stay together even when the rubber tears (albeit allowing even more movement than normal)

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Horsham, Vic
    Posts
    35

    Default

    I've had two fail on me, one every coupld of years and I'm no Evil Kneivel, repalcing them, it even feels pretty fragile, like the ballistics gel in Mythbusters. To scared to look again after going through a massive pothole the other weekend.

  10. #10
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Oh yeah, forgot to mention (and it can't be seen in the pictures)

    There is tubular sleeve around the bolt that goes through the bush (between the 2 side 'legs' ) to prevent the bush being squashed when you tighten the nut. It also ensures that the nut tightens up by a proper metal on metal contact.

    It is hard to say from the photo, but it looks like you just tightened a bolt up without the sleeve.

    This means that the bush will have no way of moving freely (and will transmit alot more vibration) and the nut will probably come loose also...

    You may have done this but it is hard to say...

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    8,396

    Default

    If I had any faith in the OE mount,I'd not be doing this.I think that the front bush is an exelent indicator of the state of the other mounts, as if they are a bit sus, the front will go ,for sure.I tend to go through mounts,and luckilly have not suffered any major consiquences, but am keen not to either!
    Mr Reno,I''m sure you are right about the loading bit.The bush I used was from the control arm side of a fuego droplink, and has a metal sleeve already.The bolt is the same size bolt, as the damper/sway bar bolt.Had to drill out the mount a bit.I have washers from the end of the drive shafts,to fit on either side of the bush but ran out of time re-assembling, and left them (and a few others) out. This meant that the bolt is reaching the end of its thread with maybe 10mm to go before it causes the bracket to bite into the bush.
    the rubber de-coupling has made a huge difference, but I think I'll try again tomorrow,with the other side of the droplink, the non sleaved side,giving it a bit more complience.
    The difference it has made to the car is quite amazing.might even think about a rolling first gear start.
    Jo
    Jo

  12. #12
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    parallel 43 south
    Posts
    1,880

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi
    If I had any faith in the OE mount,I'd not be doing this.I think that the front bush is an exelent indicator of the state of the other mounts, as if they are a bit sus, the front will go ,for sure.I tend to go through mounts,and luckilly have not suffered any major consiquences, but am keen not to either!
    Jo
    Other mounts aside, I also gave up on replacing front mounts with OEMs the last one I put in lasted 1 month! AND I must mention, this is on brand new rear engine mounts.

    Maybe it depends on the engine? My understanding was that the original design transmitted too much vibration through the car, so they removed one.

    Ill have to take a photo of the broken mount, its floating in the middle, but not going anywhere. Its like there is too much upward force.

    David.
    Last edited by vivid; 22nd September 2005 at 08:25 PM.
    Powered by high grade French plutonium.

  13. #13
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi
    If I had any faith in the OE mount,I'd not be doing this.I think that the front bush is an exelent indicator of the state of the other mounts, as if they are a bit sus, the front will go ,for sure.I tend to go through mounts,and luckilly have not suffered any major consiquences, but am keen not to either!
    Mr Reno,I''m sure you are right about the loading bit.The bush I used was from the control arm side of a fuego droplink, and has a metal sleeve already.The bolt is the same size bolt, as the damper/sway bar bolt.Had to drill out the mount a bit.I have washers from the end of the drive shafts,to fit on either side of the bush but ran out of time re-assembling, and left them (and a few others) out. This meant that the bolt is reaching the end of its thread with maybe 10mm to go before it causes the bracket to bite into the bush.
    the rubber de-coupling has made a huge difference, but I think I'll try again tomorrow,with the other side of the droplink, the non sleaved side,giving it a bit more complience.
    The difference it has made to the car is quite amazing.might even think about a rolling first gear start.
    Jo
    Jo

    Shhesesh, If you are using the top mount I'm suprised everyting in the car doesn't vibrate

    Yeah, use the bottom mount (new or slightly worn) and sleeve the bolt so that the brackets 'just' touch the bush when the nut is tightened (no side pressure is required)...

    You can adjust the plate that bolts to the body up and down and the drop link fore and aft (sloted hole from memory) to ensure that there is no static load on the bush.

    It does make a huge difference to the feel of the car, as it does't feel like the engine is floating on a bowl of jelly when you accelerate or brake...

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    11,778

    Default Time to set the design

    Richard

    Probably time to spend five minutes to inspect the mount out of the car and at the same time do a quick sketch with dimensions - that along with the photo will be enough for any budding engineer to fit this vast improved engine stabiliser!

    Ken

  15. #15
    Administrator
    mistareno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego
    Richard

    Probably time to spend five minutes to inspect the mount out of the car and at the same time do a quick sketch with dimensions - that along with the photo will be enough for any budding engineer to fit this vast improved engine stabiliser!

    Ken
    Yeah,

    I've gotta do a Cam Belt on my holidays so I might take the mount off and measure everything up.

    If I'm feeling motivated I might even make a new one up so I can take some photos as a step by step by guide...

    Jo, I wouldn't use that rubber sheet between things that are meant to be tight as it will allow small amounts of movement which will quite quickly lead to more and more movement, lose nuts etc..

    Also, there is supposed to be a step on the tapped thread (and a washer under that step)...
    Last edited by mistareno; 23rd September 2005 at 03:35 PM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •