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Thread: Two new racecars in NZ

  1. #601
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    Thanks for the ideas

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    Bustamif, I'm totally behind you on this one, that's why the pressure returned to normal by turn 2 after the flag. Now comes the other questions, why not in the previous race? and any ideas how to get rid of it?

    Regards, Frans
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

  2. #602
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    Hi All,

    Thanks for the ideas

    Bustamif, I'm totally behind you on this one, that's why the pressure returned to normal by turn 2 after the flag. Now comes the other questions, why not in the previous race? and any ideas how to get rid of it?

    Regards, Frans
    Maybe a dry sump engine? There's a bloke in NZ building one I'm told.....
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  3. #603
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi Frans,

    Even dry sump systems have their problems. Worn gears in the pump such as a chip or pitting can cause it. Porsche engines (dry sump) in the 1970’s had a problem at constant high revs around 8,000. The solution was to remove the oil cooler from the side of the engine and fit a small anti-froth swirl pot in place of the engine cooler with a larger front cooler.

    For your wet sump engine I would be looking at anything at all that has changed in the oil system including any fittings, cooler, pump and hoses. I recently heard of the internal wall on some very expensive oil hose that closed up the inside diameter on the scavenge side enough to reduce flow. The level on the dry sump tank went up as revs increased but the pressure remained OK.

    The last thing is of course the oil if you have not changed anything in the oil system but are using higher revs than before or the same revs for longer periods of time. That topic will get you 10,000 opinions on oil. Every person who drives a car has an opinion on which oil is best and why.

    If you can get onto a senior engineer with an oil company, provided the engineer is involved in the race division, you will get a good opinion. Back in the day, I recall some cars at Bathurst with sponsorship from a well-known “high performance” brand of oil had severe frothing problems. They used to fill the well-known brand containers with a genuine race oil. Oils aint oils! There was another high performance high profile oil with an additive which came out of solution at high revs in racing conditions, the additive blocked oil galleries and caused big failures before the cause was found.
    Last edited by Bustamif; 16th April 2018 at 08:02 PM.
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  4. #604
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Bustamif, you are way out of my league. Very interesting and thanks!

    Years ago, BMC had a big problem in UK with Austin/Morris/Wolseley 1800s seizing up on motorways. The story that I read at the time was that all had a similar background, careful doctors and engineers who really looked after their cars. All had been topped up generously before the big trip. I believe the problem was frothing and they solved it by shifting the dipstick "FULL" mark a bit further down. If true, and I think it is, it makes perfect sense to me.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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