Fuego No Go
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Thread: Fuego No Go

  1. #1
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    Default Fuego No Go

    Something broke & I don't know what it is.

    Traveling to work this morning had to jump on the brakes to avoid an accident. Badly patched road and heavy braking caused both fronts to lock up leaving 15' skid marks, back into 1st to drive off and nothing but a very loud clunking and banging from the front end. No drive at all. Found a few bearing needles and what looks like a bearing inner on the ground. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet and probably wont until the weekend.

    Any guesses ? CV's ? Drive shafts ? What's the availability on these sorts of parts ? Any good 2nd hand stuff available as an emergency measure ? How much ? Any advice and softening of the blow for the weekend would be greatly accepted.

    cheers

    Paul

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  2. #2
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    Default

    If you dont notice a horrible lean on one of the front wheels then its not a suspension collapse, though this typical problem from what I know usually occurs while reversing. Certainly does sound like a driveshaft is not connecting to the gearbox properly though. Continuing to test this problem will destroy the end of the driveshaft if its not already.
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  3. #3
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    Sonds like the driveshaft inner joint has finally cried enough! The inner joint is covered in a sheet steel sleeve, this has been known to wear through somehow. I guess your exciting little episode just hastened its demise and the shock caused the inner joint to disintegrate.

    Nothing to it really apart from to replace the offending driveshaft (they are equal length and not handed to either side). Also check the rubber mounts gor the gearbox and engine they could also have been damaged by driving with the stuffed driveshaft.

    Caravelle Imports should be able to supply new or recond or French Connection could supply secondhand (both in Victoria but do mail order).

    The inner joint can be rebuilt, but I've never seen a kit. It really is just as easy to replace the whole shaft.

  4. #4
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    Default Fuego CV destruction

    Sound like your Engine/transmission mounts let go under the severe stress of the emergency braking and rough road, (may have been on the way out anyway)

    Get the car up on a stand or lift and check these out, also check that the plate that secures to the side of the transmission is tightly bolted on - because the 3 bolts go into the aluminium of the transmission these can strip and when the steel plate comes adrift, the transmission can swing away and extend the left or nearside CV inner joint causing that joint to destroy itself.

    This plate is also secured to the chassis by the rubber rear mounts and if they shear the transmission can slide sideways (to both sides) so if the opposite inner Cv joint has destroyed itself odds on the mounts have sheared.

    When all mounts are new and the engine properly secured you would never have a problem under severe braking, rough road stress. (except for the engine mount at the immediate front of the motor, that seems to tear itself up a week after being replaced )

    If you are redoing all mounts, consider replacing the extreme front mount with one like on Mistarenno's Fuego as this will hold on and help by reducing sheer stress on the other engine mounts (severe use!!) (see post and photos elsewhere)

    Replacement of the CV joints is perhaps three quarters of an hour job ( some say 15 minutes!) - plenty of secondhand ones about,and also Caravelle usually have Factory reconditioned units available.

    Post further after examination of the exact damage. These things happen, but are very rare in the context of the thousands of trouble free kilometres you can expect from a well maintained Fuego.

    Ken

  5. #5
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    Default

    Looks like Ken was right again. Engine and gearbox mounts dodgy. Nearside inner joint trashed, all the damage is on the ends so it looks like it seperated when under load. Can't see any damage to offside shaft. Haven't taken it out yet. Took me a little longer than the estimated 15 - 45 min to remove the other. What a bitch getting it of that inner spline (yes I did remove the roll pin).

    Does having one shaft disconnected (nearside) mean no drive at all ? As I said the offside doesn't appear to be damaged but there is absolutely no drive. I have no experience what so ever with cv's / front wheel drive shafts. My last Fuego had 540k on the originals and I'd never had to touch them.

    Next, does anyone have a serviceable pair of driveshafts lying about. Have posted contact details in parts wanted.

    cheers

    Paul

  6. #6
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    Default Fuego Link to Suspension tool

    This is a link referring to the Suspension tool distance piece - makes it easier to keep the suspension supported while removing the CV joint.

    feugo GTX tool

    May help anyone tackling this job for the first time.

    Ken

  7. #7
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    Ken

    I had no problems with the outer end. Because the inner joint was destroyed it came away in 2 pieces, the majority of the shaft came away leaving the metal case part only on the spline. All went to plan (once I found my seldom used large sockets needed for the hub nut at the father-inlaws house) except for this one part. It had been there 20+ years and didn't feel like leaving.

    cheers

    Paul

  8. #8
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    Are you saying the driveshaft inner joint is still on the gearbox? If so there is a roll pin that needs to be punched out so that the driveshaft can be removed from the gearbox output shaft. The roll pin is visible between the gearbox and what would be the remains of the driveshaft, use a parallel pin punch, or suitable substitute, like an old pushrod to knock the pin out releasing the shaft.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    Are you saying the driveshaft inner joint is still on the gearbox? If so there is a roll pin that needs to be punched out so that the driveshaft can be removed from the gearbox output shaft.
    Simon

    yes the inner joint was still on the shaft but I had removed the roll pin, even I'm not that silly (many would disagree) I think it was just after 20+ years they didn't want to be seperated so it needed a little persuation.

    Maybe you can tell me if there should be drive with only the offside shaft in. There isn't any so does this mean it's gone too.

    cheers

    Paul

  10. #10
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    Default Fuego Diferential;

    Quote Originally Posted by scrumhead
    Simon

    yes the inner joint was still on the shaft but I had removed the roll pin, even I'm not that silly (many would disagree) I think it was just after 20+ years they didn't want to be seperated so it needed a little persuation.

    Maybe you can tell me if there should be drive with only the offside shaft in. There isn't any so does this mean it's gone too.

    cheers

    Paul
    Paul
    Sorry should have answered that before - its a normal differential so has to have both driving sides to proceed. - when you put a replacement CV joint in it should go o.k.

    Ken

  11. #11
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    Thanks Ken

    I thought (hoped) that would be the case.

    What's the procedure with the offside one. When I pull it out (carefully so as not to seperate the inner joint) how can I test it ? Just check for free play ? Should the rubber boots be pulled back and the joints regreased ? Any info would be great.

    cheers

    Paul

  12. #12
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    Default Testing CV joint

    Paul

    If the rubber boots are o.k. I wouldn't disturb them as the clips never seem to reset properly, I would jack up the wheel rotate it and listen to the internal noises (hopefully none) and get someone to wind the steering wheel back and forwards as you rotate the wheel.

    If you can get a good replacement, then put it in and after doing up mounts and side plate securely (if threads are either cross threaded or aluminium thread destroyed in the gearbox housing) you will either need to rethread using a helicoil or similar, or enlarging the bolt size and retapping (not a great option, the helicoil is better)

    Engine and transmission new rubber mounts are available from Caravelle, don't bother with the front one, use Mistarennos fix for that one.

    When you finally get the whole thing up and running, take it out for a test drive, drive it in a slow circle left and right and listen for any noises - a clicking noise indicates the CV joint is on the way out - and that is why I tend to buy Factory re-furbished ones or to get my second hand ones overhauled as I hate doing any job twice

    Look in the phone book for CV joint refurbishers in your vicinity and get a quote from them get two secondhand ones done - they will cost you about $190 each (hopefully less!!) but that should get you peace of mind and if the other one is o.k. you will have a good spare.

    I just discovered that the rubber boots on my Fuegos CV joints have died (old age and hardening!!) even though the joint has only done less than 100,000 km the original boots have sufferred during the storage of the car.

    I am tossing up whether to remove these from the car and have them re-furbished locally as the internals should be in good condition, however they don't last long without grease and open to dirt and moisture...or maybe I will get out those fancy wire towers and fit new gaiters (never done that before, so that will be an experience!!)

    If you think that much money is pretty steep, then try the "good" used one routine, but be prepared that you may have to remove it later if it clicks!!

    Ken

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