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    Icon14 Another R4

    My R4L is almost ready for the road, not finished, but running and roadworthy. I was lucky to buy a complete car for $550, and have only replaced the tyres, and the valve gear, and had the front seats re-upholstered.

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    The headlining needs replacing, and the door trims need tidying up, but I'm going to do that sort of thing after its on the road.


    Mike Brown

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    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
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    Great to hear mike keep us updated on it all.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by danielsydney
    Great to hear mike keep us updated on it all.....
    If anybody is interested, I have two of the diamond shaped Renault radiator badges that I'm not using.

    I'm also looking for four of the little rubber over riders, I actually have three that I could use, but four tidy ones would be great.

    Best
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    If anybody is interested, I have two of the diamond shaped Renault radiator badges that I'm not using.

    I'm also looking for four of the little rubber over riders, I actually have three that I could use, but four tidy ones would be great.

    Best
    Mike
    Mike - I'm wondering if you have a spare wiper arm as in the pic:

    (I don't have any spare overriders).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another R4-img_0157.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by graham66
    Mike - I'm wondering if you have a spare wiper arm as in the pic:

    (I don't have any spare overriders).
    Sorry Graham, I've just got the two on the car (chrome), but I'll keep my eye out.

    I do need some new blades though, how do you get them, just the rubbers, or complete with the metal (chrome ?) holders, and where ?

    Also, how do you put the pictures up with your side panel ?

    Best
    Mike Brown

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    I do need some new blades though, how do you get them, just the rubbers, or complete with the metal (chrome ?) holders, and where ?

    Wiper rubbers can be obtained from your local Volkswagen specialist. The Beetle ones are a touch shorter, but the slightly longer ones for split screen Kombi's may be more accessible now than they were when I last asked.

    Remove the rivet that retains the arm clip onto the new blade, do the same on the original R4 SEV Lympid blades which have shabby rubbers. Remove the rubber from the Lympid blade (don't damage the metal bit, the rubber should slide or pull out) then slide in the VW blade (metal backing and all) into the Lympid metal spine. Use a small screw or new rivet to attach the refurbished Lympid blade to the old SEV clip that will attach the blade to the arm.

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    Default Wiper arm

    Quote Originally Posted by graham66
    Mike - I'm wondering if you have a spare wiper arm as in the pic:

    (I don't have any spare overriders).
    Graham,
    Finally managed to have a look through the pile in the shed....and found some wiper arms - all crome and I could not see any difference between them. Is the RHS and LHS the same? (looks like it... ). If "YES" I can send you one...
    Stephan

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephanklemens
    Graham,
    Finally managed to have a look through the pile in the shed....and found some wiper arms - all crome and I could not see any difference between them. Is the RHS and LHS the same? (looks like it... ). If "YES" I can send you one...
    Stephan
    Mate, that would be great! Let me know cost, postage etc. Also do you still have the diamond radiator badges? I'd be interested in those.

    I can PM you my address.

    PS - the pic in the side panel can be uploaded to your avatar if you go to "User CP" in the menu.

    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    Wiper rubbers can be obtained from your local Volkswagen specialist. The Beetle ones are a touch shorter, but the slightly longer ones for split screen Kombi's may be more accessible now than they were when I last asked.

    Remove the rivet that retains the arm clip onto the new blade, do the same on the original R4 SEV Lympid blades which have shabby rubbers. Remove the rubber from the Lympid blade (don't damage the metal bit, the rubber should slide or pull out) then slide in the VW blade (metal backing and all) into the Lympid metal spine. Use a small screw or new rivet to attach the refurbished Lympid blade to the old SEV clip that will attach the blade to the arm.
    That sounds good Simon, thanks a lot.

    Best
    Mike Brown

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    Default another R4 to come [swing arrm bushes]

    [QUOTE=danielsydney]Great to hear mike keep us updated on it all.....[/QUOi see you're talking R4 is there any one that knows what to do with the inner swing arm bushes ?they're gone,bought some new to replace them ,the new outer bushes i think wil fit,how to do ? the new inner b.can't fit .must be of a later car ? i dont know how they look,even in R4 manual i can,t find it.sugested to me ,get some thing made up , nylon ? if they are suposed to do and function as the outer b. i would think that does'nt work. regards , cor boon
    Last edited by boon; 2nd May 2005 at 12:01 AM.

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    Default R4 bits

    Good to hear of another R4 on the road. I will be in Adelaide for the French day but will be bringing my 16 TS this year.

    I have spare over riders in Melbourne and did obtain new wiper arms and blades through Trico. Try your local Trico bloke!
    Happy Sixteening ... John E

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    Quote Originally Posted by reno1154
    Good to hear of another R4 on the road. I will be in Adelaide for the French day but will be bringing my 16 TS this year.

    I have spare over riders in Melbourne and did obtain new wiper arms and blades through Trico. Try your local Trico bloke!
    See you at French Day. I'll be the old bloke with the long white beard (seriously) in the blue R4.

    If you can bear to part with the over riders, I'd be grateful.

    Funnily enough I have a leaflet from the local Trico bloke (Anthony Pearson http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com) in front of me now, I'm about to get some bulbs from him, so I'll talk about wiper blades at the same time.

    Thanks
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    Funnily enough I have a leaflet from the local Trico bloke (Anthony Pearson http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com) in front of me now, I'm about to get some bulbs from him, so I'll talk about wiper blades at the same time.

    Thanks
    Mike
    If you are going for halogen globes, I'd suggest that you also fit relays to the lights as otherwise the current draw for the light switch will be too great and you will end up killing the light switch from heat stress (plastic melts and breaks up). The normal non halogen globes I have found to be quite adequate in most situations, this includes country running. I've no idea what it is with my car, but the 6V lights I have found to be quite good. They can also be obtained from the VW shop too (usually the VW place on Main North Rd), who also will likely have the Trico blades for the VW too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    If you are going for halogen globes, I'd suggest that you also fit relays to the lights as otherwise the current draw for the light switch will be too great and you will end up killing the light switch from heat stress (plastic melts and breaks up). The normal non halogen globes I have found to be quite adequate in most situations, this includes country running. I've no idea what it is with my car, but the 6V lights I have found to be quite good. They can also be obtained from the VW shop too (usually the VW place on Main North Rd), who also will likely have the Trico blades for the VW too.
    Simon
    According to the supplier, the halogen bulbs draw exactly the same current as their tungsten equivalent, provided that you don't increase the wattage of course.
    Best, Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by danielsydney
    Great to hear mike keep us updated on it all.....

    Had my first proper drive today, only a total of about 10k, but pretty smooth considering.

    It took a couple of short drives round the block, and some tuning between times to get it running well enough to drive, it spat and spluttered when you tried to accellerate the first time, but the ignition timing was out, and after a couple of adjustments it's going pretty well, even climbs hills.

    I'm pretty happy this evening, and it's going in to have the exhaust repaired tomorrow morning, at the moment the tail pipe ends at the bottom of the front wing, though it's surprisingly quiet. The rest of the pipe under the body is fine, it just needs connecting to the front bit.

    Best, Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    Simon
    According to the supplier, the halogen bulbs draw exactly the same current as their tungsten equivalent, provided that you don't increase the wattage of course.
    Best, Mike
    That would be right, I just figured that the halogen globes would be higher wattage than the 45 watt originals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    If you are going for halogen globes, I'd suggest that you also fit relays to the lights as otherwise the current draw for the light switch will be too great and you will end up killing the light switch from heat stress (plastic melts and breaks up). The normal non halogen globes I have found to be quite adequate in most situations, this includes country running. I've no idea what it is with my car, but the 6V lights I have found to be quite good. They can also be obtained from the VW shop too (usually the VW place on Main North Rd), who also will likely have the Trico blades for the VW too.
    Simon,
    You are right, the Halogen are not available in 45/40, only in 65/60, so Im replacing with Tungsten for now any way. May do the whole bit with relays later.

    Best Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by danielsydney
    Great to hear mike keep us updated on it all.....
    Daniel (and other interested parties).

    My R4 has retired from the road temporarily. I went for about a 20 k hilly run late yesterday afternoon, and it seemed to go well, but when I got home it was making horrible loud rattly noises.

    Investigation so far suggests that the timing chain (?) has become loose, the belt drive pulley on the front can be rotated back and forward a few degrees by hand.

    The engine is an 800-01, anybody have any idea if the timing is likely to be chain or gear driven.

    Tomorrow the engine comes out to have a closer look.

    Damn. Mike Brown

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    If it is horrible rattly noises, sounds like it is an excessively worn fibre timing gear. There are degrees of rattle though. An occasional rattle can indicate "normal". If the fibre gear is knife edged then it is excessively worn. Also check that the timing is close to spot on, this can exaggerate the rattle noise, and the SEV Junior distributor is notoriously difficult to tighten, and then moves of its own accord in normal running.

    To check if it is an early 800-01 with timing gear it will have a flat surface to the cast iron timing gear case, if is has a corrugated surface (against the bulkhead) it will have a chain, but these "late" chain motors are generally only found on the last AUS vans and private imports. Also if it is a very early 800-01, there is a lube jet in the timing cover, if the jet is incorrectly placed or non existant or just plain blocked in the hole the gear doesn't get lubricated and makes a rattly noise. This jet was deleted on the later timing gear motors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    You are right, the Halogen are not available in 45/40, only in 65/60, so Im replacing with Tungsten for now any way. May do the whole bit with relays later.
    Considering the age of the switch, and the current that passes through it, I'd recommend doing the relay thing regardless (unless you are going for originality) - it should greatly reduce the wear on the spade contacts as well.
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

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    Quote Originally Posted by graham66
    Mate, that would be great! Let me know cost, postage etc. Also do you still have the diamond radiator badges? I'd be interested in those.

    I can PM you my address.

    PS - the pic in the side panel can be uploaded to your avatar if you go to "User CP" in the menu.

    cheers
    It was me who has the diamond radiator badges (off an R4).

    Let me know if you are still interested in one of them.

    Mike Brown

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brown
    It was me who has the diamond radiator badges (off an R4).

    Let me know if you are still interested in one of them.

    Mike Brown
    Sorry Mike I'm losing my marbles But yeah I'm interested - what sort of money mate?

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    Quote Originally Posted by graham66
    Sorry Mike I'm losing my marbles But yeah I'm interested - what sort of money mate?

    I've no idea of the value of these things.

    $10 plus postage for one ?

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    If it is horrible rattly noises, sounds like it is an excessively worn fibre timing gear. There are degrees of rattle though. An occasional rattle can indicate "normal". If the fibre gear is knife edged then it is excessively worn. Also check that the timing is close to spot on, this can exaggerate the rattle noise, and the SEV Junior distributor is notoriously difficult to tighten, and then moves of its own accord in normal running.

    To check if it is an early 800-01 with timing gear it will have a flat surface to the cast iron timing gear case, if is has a corrugated surface (against the bulkhead) it will have a chain, but these "late" chain motors are generally only found on the last AUS vans and private imports. Also if it is a very early 800-01, there is a lube jet in the timing cover, if the jet is incorrectly placed or non existant or just plain blocked in the hole the gear doesn't get lubricated and makes a rattly noise. This jet was deleted on the later timing gear motors.

    Thanks Simon, that helps a lot.

    I have another block with the timing gears complete (but not much else), and the fibre gear looks good on that.

    Since the noise comes and goes a bit, the lube jet could be part of the problem, and the distributor has some play in the clamping too.

    Gives me a few things to have a look at.

    Best Mike

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    Just beware when playing swapsies with parts. If it is a later type (but pre chain drive) block, there is no jet or hole in the centre of the spigot that the fibre gear runs on and consequently no jet that fits between the spigot and cast housing. Instead there is a hole in the block that sprays the rear of the gear. If someone else has played swapsies in the past, the steel plate between the cast housing and the block could also be blocking the hole in the block that sprays the gear if the steel plate has been swapped from an early motor which wouldn't have had a hole.

    With the distributor clamp, pull the steel clamp off the distributor and file or grind where the clamps comes together. With the bracket being loose, this wears where the clamp grips the cast alloy distributor casing. Tightening up the clamp can cause the two sides of the clamp to butt up against each other, but not actually grip the clamp. Filing the faces of the clamp gives room for the clamp to actually grip the distributor.

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