that R16 steering coupling!
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  1. #1
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    Default that R16 steering coupling!

    hi everyone
    well, the car is on jackstands and i've come to a standstill ,,, the bolts came out easy enough, but the rivets have me baffled! i have ground one rivet off, but still the bit of rivet is sitting inside the steering arm and is refusing all to efforts to budge it!! do i have to drill it out??? or is there a simpler method of getting the b. rivet out?!

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    what i planned as a half hour job is proving to be more than pain!!!

    frank

  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackyellow
    hi everyone
    well, the car is on jackstands and i've come to a standstill ,,, the bolts came out easy enough, but the rivets have me baffled! i have ground one rivet off, but still the bit of rivet is sitting inside the steering arm and is refusing all to efforts to budge it!! do i have to drill it out??? or is there a simpler method of getting the b. rivet out?!

    what i planned as a half hour job is proving to be more than pain!!!

    frank
    Frank,

    I honestly don't know. The best person to ask, I reckon, is probably Mark Bird - RACWA tomorrow morning in the city office would work.

    Cheers

    JohnW

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW
    Frank,

    I honestly don't know. The best person to ask, I reckon, is probably Mark Bird - RACWA tomorrow morning in the city office would work.

    Cheers

    JohnW
    hi John!
    will have to give him a try - I gave up at lunchtime and am about to pluck up the courage for round two. i also noted the alloy water pump is heavily corroded when I took off the radiaotr hose ... at least the coolant was green!! ah well ... iy'll be great when its done! (also noticed the left hand CV boot is ripped and appears to be greaseless ... accounts for the thumping and noise ... caravelle to the rescue again - ken does supply recond driveshafts i assume?!
    cheers frank.

  4. #4
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackyellow
    hi John!
    will have to give him a try - I gave up at lunchtime and am about to pluck up the courage for round two. i also noted the alloy water pump is heavily corroded when I took off the radiaotr hose ... at least the coolant was green!! ah well ... iy'll be great when its done! (also noticed the left hand CV boot is ripped and appears to be greaseless ... accounts for the thumping and noise ... caravelle to the rescue again - ken does supply recond driveshafts i assume?!
    cheers frank.
    Hi Frank,

    Don't forget Renwreck either for that CV joint/drive shaft - they're a lot closer!! Sounds like previous neglect, re the corrosion. There aren't many of us in Perth but a few of the 16 boys over East seem to have quite a bit of stuff. I haven't any drive shafts myself.

    Which steering component are you actually replacing?

    Cheers

    John

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW
    Hi Frank,

    Don't forget Renwreck either for that CV joint/drive shaft - they're a lot closer!! Sounds like previous neglect, re the corrosion. There aren't many of us in Perth but a few of the 16 boys over East seem to have quite a bit of stuff. I haven't any drive shafts myself.

    Which steering component are you actually replacing?

    Cheers

    John
    ah ... i keep forgetting Renwreck .... i'm replacing the flexible steering coupling under the bonnet ... near the rack, was hoping to also do the uni joint under the dash, but thought i'd do the easy one first!! Ha!

  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackyellow
    ah ... i keep forgetting Renwreck .... i'm replacing the flexible steering coupling under the bonnet ... near the rack, was hoping to also do the uni joint under the dash, but thought i'd do the easy one first!! Ha!
    Cunningly devised so the easy job is harder!! My M.R. 96, 1977 edition factory manual says, not exactly helpfully, "Drill through the flexible coupling rivets. Fit 7 mm diameter bolts, 30 mm (1 3/16") long and nylstop nuts instead of the rivets. The steering box must be removed for this operation."

    My earlier manual doesn't acknowledge that anyone would change this joint and shows it as integral with the steering rack.

    So it's all commonsense stuff, with no hidden tricks. I suspect the rivets are an interference fit - maybe make up a tool like a bike chain link remover to push them out by screwing a bolt onto them. I've just had a look at mine - easy to see but hard to get a straight line-up to drill or hammer.

    Cheers

    JohnW

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW
    So it's all commonsense stuff, with no hidden tricks. I suspect the rivets are an interference fit - maybe make up a tool like a bike chain link remover to push them out by screwing a bolt onto them. I've just had a look at mine - easy to see but hard to get a straight line-up to drill or hammer.
    hi john - taking off the spare support strut/bracket will make it easier, i'll grind off the other side of the rivet and maybe use easyouts or just be patient and drill the remaining rivet out, although as you said, the angle ain't great. getting the additional bolts was the easy bit!!
    cheers f.

  8. #8
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    Default under dash

    Don't know if its of any use to you but when the uni under the dash went in my r16 u used a peice if high quality garden hose to replace the rubber. It work superbly.

    Leigh

  9. #9
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    Hi Frank,

    I did my 76 about 3 months ago, as John said, drill out the rivets, I used a right angle cordless and it worked a treat.

    Hope you have some luck

    Melc

  10. #10
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    i did my 12 a while ago but i took the rack out of the vehicle as i have access to the proper factory steering reck aligner. as suggested before i would go for the 90 degree drill, and don't forget to use high tensile bolts to replace the rivets, better to be safe than without steering.

  11. #11
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    Default thanks!

    thanks for the info guys - have ground off both sides of the rivets, so sunday's job is to drill and cure and also replace the water pump which was missing half the neck thanks to corrosion!
    cheers frank

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