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  1. #1
    Member timk's Avatar
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    Icon5 bubbln fuego

    my pride and joy sprayed a small jet of green coolant on my front screen when i stoppedt work today i topped her up and tightened a very loose water pump belt but now when i stop after 30 seconds the overflow bottle bubbles and carries on the cap doesnt seem to hold pressure whilst driving it sits on half and the fans cut in at 3/4 and switch off, its only when i turn the car off it missbehaves. what are the correct system pressures for the fuego as the new cap i have is blue and the old one is brown. the new cap is flat where the old cap is quite tall with a brown cap. are these different as my car has a plastic overflow near the screen on the lhs passengers. does ken at carravelle have these brown raised caps or should i look for other problems as well. many thanks again timk

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    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I had some simular problems with my Fuego.
    Does your expansion bottle have any cracks in it? I have seen numerous bottles become cracked and brittle due to the heat. As I also have a car with the original bottle undamaged, and has been parked outdoors its whole life, despite what people say, I dont think UV is to blame for these deteriorating.

    First thing I would do is bleed the coolant, as it is a closed cooling system. Somewhere in the system the water is being turned to vapour and this could be caused by an air bubble in the system.

    Other more serious problems could be causing this, as a blown head gasket, or warped head (the reason I am rebuilding one of my fuego's motors) Check that your water pump is still working, and has not seized.. and another problem I had a while back was a radiator cap not sealing properly.

    One other cause, and maybe one of the first things to look at, is a mechanical thermostat, designed to stay closed while the engine is cold, to assist in bringing it up to temp faster. If this is always closed, this could also be causing the syptoms you have described.

    Maybe in order;

    1. Test your thermostat in a pan of water with a thermeter... on the heat, and make sure its opening.

    2. Test that your water pump is pushing water around, and is not seized or worn.

    3. Bleed the cooling system, check for leaks. Even a pinhole letting in air can cause problems quickly apparent at heat.

    may also be worthwhile looking for grey oil, or oil in the water, incase the worst, it is a blown head.

    I may be able to help you with parts.

    David.
    Last edited by vivid; 29th March 2005 at 09:01 PM.
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  3. #3
    Member timk's Avatar
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    Default bubbling fuego

    thanks for those tips i will replace the cap and overflow the water pump isnt ceased but maybee the impellor is corroded away? hope not ive just done the cambelt and all the seals never mind good pracise i guess. do you have a new brown cap or know where i can get one also i will replace the thermostat for good measure and air bleed however top and bottom hoses are hot i think its not holding pressure maybe the plastic bottle fingers crossed its not the head gasket it goes so well, thank again tim k
    ps any other ideas misterreno or ken fuego or any other fuego nuts out there




    Quote Originally Posted by vivid
    Hi,

    I had some simular problems with my Fuego.
    Does your expansion bottle have any cracks in it? I have seen numerous bottles become cracked and brittle due to the heat. As I also have a car with the original bottle undamaged, and has been parked outdoors its whole life, despite what people say, I dont think UV is to blame for these deteriorating.

    First thing I would do is bleed the coolant, as it is a closed cooling system. Somewhere in the system the water is being turned to vapour and this could be caused by an air bubble in the system.

    Other more serious problems could be causing this, as a blown head gasket, or warped head (the reason I am rebuilding one of my fuego's motors) Check that your water pump is still working, and has not seized.. and another problem I had a while back was a radiator cap not sealing properly.

    One other cause, and maybe one of the first things to look at, is a mechanical thermostat, designed to stay closed while the engine is cold, to assist in bringing it up to temp faster. If this is always closed, this could also be causing the syptoms you have described.

    Maybe in order;

    1. Test your thermostat in a pan of water with a thermeter... on the heat, and make sure its opening.

    2. Test that your water pump is pushing water around, and is not seized or worn.

    3. Bleed the cooling system, check for leaks. Even a pinhole letting in air can cause problems quickly apparent at heat.

    may also be worthwhile looking for grey oil, or oil in the water, incase the worst, it is a blown head.

    I may be able to help you with parts.

    David.

  4. #4
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    Default Fuego coolant boiling

    Quote Originally Posted by timk
    my pride and joy sprayed a small jet of green coolant on my front screen when i stoppedt work today i topped her up and tightened a very loose water pump belt but now when i stop after 30 seconds the overflow bottle bubbles and carries on the cap doesnt seem to hold pressure whilst driving it sits on half and the fans cut in at 3/4 and switch off, its only when i turn the car off it missbehaves. what are the correct system pressures for the fuego as the new cap i have is blue and the old one is brown. the new cap is flat where the old cap is quite tall with a brown cap. are these different as my car has a plastic overflow near the screen on the lhs passengers. does ken at carravelle have these brown raised caps or should i look for other problems as well. many thanks again timk
    Tim there should not be any overflow outlet as it is a sealed system, sounds like a replacement expansion bottle which often have provision for an outlet or feed to elsewhere. Some replacement caps do not seal properly - Ken at Caravelle has the proper caps, and they all should have a rubber seal inside the cap. Occasionally the rubber ring will fall out of the cap when you are adding coollant and if this is not noticed then the system will boil easily.

    Pressure in the expansion bottle is 13 lbs pressure as quoted in the Fuego Autodata manual) when hot, and the bottle should be only filled to the line as the compression of the air above the line helps return the expanded fluid as it cools.

    Common points for loss of pressure is a badly fitted radiator cap failing to seal on the radiator, failure of water pump seals (you see hot water weeping from the pump housing) The heater tap control which is just above the electronic module on earlier cars (weeping coolant will short the electricals) or other weeping from hose joints and seals.

    I trust that you got the new cambelt installed correctly as a few teeth difference could cause overheating/poor performance - not likely I guess if you checked it over properly after installation.

    There are a lot of previous posts if you search through the Fuego specific post on that subject.

    Very much a check by check of the system ensuring all parts seal and all assemblies were replaced correctly and most importantly post here when you actually find the fault.

    Mostly the fault will be minor and no major damage has occurred (warping of head, holes in internals etc, these are rare unless the engine has been flogged when obviously losing coollant etc.

    Ken
    Last edited by Kenfuego; 30th March 2005 at 10:54 AM. Reason: add correct 13 lbs pressure

  5. #5
    Member timk's Avatar
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    Default bubbling fuego

    many thanks for that info i will order a new cap and bottle from caravelle,i will pressure test it today at work but can see no leaks anywhere and pump etc seem ok car sat on just under half all the way to work this morning but i will let everyone know what the end resolve is many thaks tim k









    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego
    Tim there should not be any overflow outlet as it is a sealed system, sounds like a replacement expansion bottle which often have provision for an outlet or feed to elsewhere. Some replacement caps do not seal properly - Ken at Caravelle has the proper caps, and they all should have a rubber seal inside the cap. Occasionally the rubber ring will fall out of the cap when you are adding coollant and if this is not noticed then the system will boil easily.

    Pressure in the expansion bottle is between 4 and 11lbs per square inch (from memory when hot, and the bottle should be only filled to the line as the compression of the air above the line helps return the expanded fluid as it cools.

    Common points for loss of pressure is a badly fitted radiator cap failing to seal on the radiator, failure of water pump seals (you see hot water weeping from the pump housing) The heater tap control which is just above the electronic module on earlier cars (weeping coolant will short the electricals) or other weeping from hose joints and seals.

    I trust that you got the new cambelt installed correctly as a few teeth difference could cause overheating/poor performance - not likely I guess if you checked it over properly after installation.

    There are a lot of previous posts if you search through the Fuego specific post on that subject.

    Very much a check by check of the system ensuring all parts seal and all assemblies were replaced correctly and most importantly post here when you actually find the fault.

    Mostly the fault will be minor and no major damage has occurred (warping of head, holes in internals etc, these are rare unless the engine has been flogged when obviously losing coollant etc.

    Ken

  6. #6
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    What work has been done on the car for it to have a new replacement coolant bottle cap? It sounds like the car may just have a belly full of air and need a decent bleed, although the cap should be a brown top cap, assuming that they still run the same colour coding of old......

  7. #7
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    Default Coolant bottle failure

    Note that I have revised the pressure the coolant expansion bottle holds to 13 lbs per square inch - Bottle mostly fail due to the sunlight that filters through the black mesh on the scuttle area below the windscreen, turns the rear of the bottle to a powdery white and you find when this white substance is melted back to plastic that there is thousands of minute cracks under the surface.

    I have successfully repaired these bottles by using a hot flat soldering iron to carefully to smooth the powdery surface so that I can then coat that surface with Araldite 2 pack epoxy and stick either cotton material or nylon mesh to the restored non powdery surface, then coat that material with more Aralditre and add a further layer and bind the lot with good quality duct tape.

    One of these repairs is still in place 3 or 4 years after with no problems - Please be careful when using the hot iron to avoid breathing the vapour from the melted surface, its probably quite toxic!

    Ken Bailey at Caravelle did have replacement bottles for sale, they have an extra outlet at the front of the bottle and a much larger hose entry at the bottom that needs to be stepped down to the Fuego size.

    A get you home trick for a cracked coolant bottle, is to remove both terminals from the temperature switch at the rear of the radiator on the batery side of the engine compartment, I carry a small piece of bridging wire with male spade terminal each end to insert in these wires, the fans will then run all the time when the ignition is on.

    You could of course introduce a switch from within the car to only use this trick when the car shows signs of overheating -[ better though to fix the problem!!)

    Ken

  8. #8
    Member timk's Avatar
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    Default no more bubbling

    Thanks for all your help problem turned out to be a hair crack in the expansion /overflow bottle under the black plastic cowling vents i cant believe i didnt see it earlier i will give it a new bottle and cap and also thermostat and flush the whole sytem, it still runs on half and the crack only relaeses pressure slowly thanks everyone as i had looked in this area briefly before and not seeen the crack if it had not been for your help i probalby would have not found it till the weekend

    tim k








    Just QUOTE=Kenfuego]Note that I have revised the pressure the coolant expansion bottle holds to 13 lbs per square inch - Bottle mostly fail due to the sunlight that filters through the black mesh on the scuttle area below the windscreen, turns the rear of the bottle to a powdery white and you find when this white substance is melted back to plastic that there is thousands of minute cracks under the surface.

    I have successfully repaired these bottles by using a hot flat soldering iron to carefully to smooth the powdery surface so that I can then coat that surface with Araldite 2 pack epoxy and stick either cotton material or nylon mesh to the restored non powdery surface, then coat that material with more Aralditre and add a further layer and bind the lot with good quality duct tape.

    One of these repairs is still in place 3 or 4 years after with no problems - Please be careful when using the hot iron to avoid breathing the vapour from the melted surface, its probably quite toxic!

    Ken Bailey at Caravelle did have replacement bottles for sale, they have an extra outlet at the front of the bottle and a much larger hose entry at the bottom that needs to be stepped down to the Fuego size.

    A get you home trick for a cracked coolant bottle, is to remove both terminals from the temperature switch at the rear of the radiator on the batery side of the engine compartment, I carry a small piece of bridging wire with male spade terminal each end to insert in these wires, the fans will then run all the time when the ignition is on.

    You could of course introduce a switch from within the car to only use this trick when the car shows signs of overheating -[ better though to fix the problem!!)

    Ken[/QUOTE]

  9. #9
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    Default Fuego Replacing /repairing coolant bottle

    Timk

    Just watch when lifting the plastic material on the scuttle as it may break as you ease it up, and the fretwork is brittle. You can probably get to the bolt that holds the bottle in place without removing this, but if you can't then carefully work around the windscreen seal to release it (an old knife with some silicone oil will help release the cover.

    You may find that the bolt is rusted into the top of the bottle and you can carefully use a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt if it wont undo - you can then drill the bolt that goes into the plastic plug and use an easyout tool to remove it.

    Get the new one if one is available, but also try and repair that one, mine had a similar crack in it, but after repair it has never faltered - if you can only get a second hand replacement, then make sure that you reinforce that area before refitting (as per my earlier post) the tape and cloth plus araldite will prevent any further sunlight degradation of the plastic.

    Mine originally cracked open in Sydney, and I bound it with just duct tape and that was sufficient to get me back to Melbourne (with the thermostat control bridged so the fans ran all the time) I did the more permanent repair back in Melbourne.

    Good luck

    ken

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego
    Ken Bailey at Caravelle did have replacement bottles for sale, they have an extra outlet at the front of the bottle and a much larger hose entry at the bottom that needs to be stepped down to the Fuego size.
    They are R25 "Hot Bottle" expansion tanks, on the R25 there is no filler cap in the radiator, all coolant is added to the tank (which is then run under full pressure)
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