fuego running badly after standing awhile.
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default fuego running badly after standing awhile.

    Firstly thankyou good people for your replies to my previous questions on this subject, unfortunately our phone line has been out for 10 days or so !!!!!!!!! so I haven't been able to reply.
    1. I have tried new fuel, another ignition module, choke is going off, and still have the same problem- running rough, coughing, missing finally dying when motor gets warm.
    2. Has new plugs, plug leads, dist cap cleaned, carby dismantled, can't think of much more to do.
    3. Starts very well and easy.
    4. Have thought about the millions of rubber tubes running to the carby and the various temp switches on the block (all these are connected) does anyone think they might be at fault and is there a way to test them.
    Thanks
    Cam

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Camyron
    Firstly thankyou good people for your replies to my previous questions on this subject, unfortunately our phone line has been out for 10 days or so !!!!!!!!! so I haven't been able to reply.
    1. I have tried new fuel, another ignition module, choke is going off, and still have the same problem- running rough, coughing, missing finally dying when motor gets warm.
    2. Has new plugs, plug leads, dist cap cleaned, carby dismantled, can't think of much more to do.
    3. Starts very well and easy.
    4. Have thought about the millions of rubber tubes running to the carby and the various temp switches on the block (all these are connected) does anyone think they might be at fault and is there a way to test them.
    Thanks
    Cam
    I honestly don't know. If it were mine, I'd try finding another carbie that did work when hot and swapping the whole unit to eliminate that issue (or not!). If there is some odd passage blocked in the carbie, it might be OK when over rich on choke, but too lean when the choke comes off.

    The other thing I'd look for is a leak on the induction side, maybe a split air hose or similar near the carbie.

    Best of luck.

    JohnW

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I'd reckon you've got a blocked fuel filter.
    Replace it even if you already have done so.
    I did a Citroen CX a few years back that belonged to a mate of mine. Every Cit "specialist" in SE Queensland had spent a squillion $$$$$$s on it and one had even replaced the filter.
    I replaced it with a good quality one (one off an EFi car even though it was carby/distributor & coil ignition) and problem solved.
    A lot of these older cars had the fuel lines and tanks made of a material that broke down with age and let off minute particles of crap that can block these shitty Ryco plastic throwaway filters within a few hundred metres.
    Make sure that when you do, also blow out all the jets so that you get away to a fresh clean start when the new filter is installed.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
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    If it conks out when warm, and won't restart, but otherwise runs OK, it sounds suspiciously like a TDC sensor to me.

  5. #5
    Tadpole 83fuego's Avatar
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    hi it sound very similler to a problem i had with mine 2 years ago where when the motor was hot it would start to die and cough, i replaced the fuse board[it may not have a factor but mine was melted], ignition module, fly wheel pic up {tdc} and have had no problems since, check that the wires that go to the 2 solidnoids on the carby are there and that they are set correctly don;t forget if you adjust those there is small hex bolts that hold them to there adjustment

  6. #6
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    I agree that the Top Dead Sensor Lead is a very likely culprit, as this is exactly what happenned to my sons car while I was driving it. New Leads are available from Ken Bailey at Carravelle Melbourne (03) 9890 9061. Its worth trying and if this is not the answer then you might like to use your spare lead to try out Mistarennos modification of the TDS for better running/advance spark etc ( see his past posts)

    Just watch when you remove the 11mm (from memory) bolts from the TDS end that you stuff some rag around the clutch opening to prevent the bolts falling into the clutch (murphys law if you don't! ) there is not much room to work in this area and a small ratchet works best. (probably the reason that owners leave this check/fix as a last resort!!)

    Fuel starvation may produce a similar effect, so ensure that fuel pump diaphram is not faulty (Caravelle have new fuel pumps) and the fuel line filter is replaced and free of water/debris etc.

    One other thing that may need checking is the graphite/carbon spring loaded
    button on the inside of the distributor cap. On my 86, I have had a number of these wear to the extent that they no longer protrude far enough to make good contact with the top of the rotor. This gives very poor running and performance, but still starts o.k.!!

    Unfortunately you don't seem to be able to buy just the carbon rod and new spring as you could years ago, you now have to buy the whole new cap (yes Caravelle have them too!)

    Hope this helps.

    Ken

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    I presume you have checked, but I don't suppose the choke is staying on?

    Does the car Idle Up when Cold and then drop down as it warms up?

    If it doesn't, it may simply be over choking when it warms up.

    This would explain why it starts easily when cold but coughs and splutters when hot....

    Also, make sure you clean out the gauze filter on the Carby itself....these do clog up with a shitty batch of fuel and is often overllooked.

    Apart from those simple and easy things to check, I'd also say either TDC Sensor or perhaps the Coil.

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Reference the running problem, I note that you have" disassembled the carb", depending on the Weber, some rely on 2 separate circuits for idle, to cut a long story short, if it warms up ok cold, then goes like a chaff cutter when warm , it may be as simple as the base gasket on carb, you will note that it only goes one direction to allow for the air bleed circuit, you may have put the gasket on the wrong way, easy enough done,

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Default My Fuego was also running like that - now it's dead!

    I've been watching this thread with interest, since everything described here has been happening to mine. Now it finally refuses to start and after towing it home, I got the air cleaner and rocker cover off. I have fuel, spark and the rockers are all going - I suspect I have lost compression and I'll be pushing a compression guage into each cylinder in turn tomorrow morning. I'd like to check timing but don't know where to look - the Fuego is no HQ!

    I might be a bit out of my depth with this - any tips?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Gonz
    I might be a bit out of my depth with this - any tips?
    So what were the symptoms on your car before it finally stopped, and when did the symptoms start? Presuming you have carried out all of the above tests like TDC sensor, fuel cut off solenoid etc etc, and there is a decent spark and fuel getting into the carby, when were the plugs last changed and what is the distributor cap and rotor like.

  11. #11
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    Gonz and other Fuego owners

    I would alway urge a bit of caution and that an owner do simple checks to see if they have a disconnected or cracked tube in an around the carby area, or that a wire is broken or disconnected somewhere before starting to do a major teardown of carby, rocker covers etc.

    These simple checks solve most poor running problems in my experience. If everything looks o.k then check fuel delivery, spark plug lead condition and spark at the plug end.

    Next I would check the Distributor cap as the ones fitted to the rear of the head often get oil leaking inside (new seals needed) or the carbon rod degraded and be careful to put leads back in correct sequence.

    If this doesn't work then try and get hold of another ignition module unit from a Fuego that you knew was running o.k. and carefully fit it and buy or borrow a new Top dead Center sensor lead, as when these go (rarely) they give all the symptoms as described in these posts!

    If that doesn't help, then the answer may be buried somewhere in your wiring system. Look for signs of burning at connectors, loose fuses, poor circuit board connectors and repair or bypass as you find them. Check also the solenoids on the carby are they loose or poor connections (apparently you can get new solenoids from a mazda if required) is the choke set correctly as per your haynes manual.

    Nine tenths of the time the answer will come from the above checks without the necessity of stripping the carby off the engine or examining rocker covers
    etc etc.

    Over the years I have lost count of the number of times I have gone out to my kids cars stalled on the road somewhere and found a wire off, or a disconnected carby tube, a simple and quick fix.

    Others like a faulty ignition switch, shorting wiring or leads or the faulty Top dead center sensor lead/faulty coil were harder but solved by a logical elimination process rather than wholesale dismantling.

    It also helps to describe on this board what were the symptoms prior to and whenthe problem occured and if your engine.car has been modified from standard (EGR bypassed etc) as this all helps in diagnosing the problem and most importantly if you finally solve the problem share the good news!

    If you get out of your depth its probably better to take the car to a renault specialist before you create other problems. Most specialists will help you learn more about your car and how to fix/and test for common problems but don't be frightened of asking.


    Ken
    Last edited by Kenfuego; 15th August 2004 at 01:42 AM.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Default Detail on the dead Fuego

    Here goes:

    I began noticing it missed under load when pushed a bit, about 2 months ago. It then had trouble idling without stalling some time later. I finally got around to tuning it and thought I had come up with a good setup, but the problems kept returning. A couple of weeks ago I checked the distributor and spark plugs - all looked good - and cleaned up some corrosion in the lead socket of the ignition unit (there's something else I don't quite understand, not the coil I'm used to seeing in Holdens). This minor "ignition servicing" made absolutely no difference to its performance. I also took the autochoke coil and gave it an extra turn to help keep the choke fully open - I got the expected hard starting but did notice better mileage. I put this back to where it was last week for the easier starting.

    Over the last week, I've had to keep the revs up using my handbrake to stop (to keep the accelerator pressed) since no amount of idle speed would keep it alive. I could have it running smoothly only in the high rev range and with barely a trace of acceleration in any gear, since any reasonable acceleration would send it into violent spasms, causing missing and backfiring. My muffler now has a hole in it.

    It has been getting oily around the top/rear of the engine, a real contrast with when I bought it two years ago when it was nice and dry on the outside.

    Here's the weird bit: One day I thought it sounded kind of squeaky so I opened the oil filler cap while it was still running and poured a little engine oil in, although the dipstick never shows it needs more. The moment the oil went in, it became all puffy to the point it blew the fresh oil back out before any more could even reach the hole. The squeaking did become less noticeable for a while.

    The plastic EGR post sits on what I take to be some gasket goo. The post itself comes off very easily and I'm allowing a larger hose to sit on top and keep it there. I can't blow air through it towards the air cleaner, but that might be normal (?)

    I hope one of these symptoms triggers something in your understanding / recognition. I want to check all of those things mentioned here before becoming a surgeon.

    I can't locate the fuel filter, pump or line and, although I regularly check the coolant level, I've just noticed the coolant bottle is empty. I'm hoping this is just coincidence. The temperature guage gets to halfway and , if the engine gets any warmer, the fan kicks in. I've never seen it get over 55% and it hasn't been that warm here lately. Anyway, I've just checked the coolant level in the radiator and it's full of bright green liquid and the level responds to a squeeze on the hoses.

    Last night after towing me home, my brother-in-law sprayed some magic starter fuel into the throat of the Weber while I turned the engine with no success. What keeps worrying me is the apparent lack of load on the starter - although the rockers are all still going - hence today's compression tests - just as soon as my son gets back from his tennis so he can turn the key for me.

    I also can't work out how to use my timing gun with the Fuego. I haven't yet located any timing marks. I've read about shifting the timing sensor before but couldn't locate it then or now. This could all be a moot point if I can't get it idling, I think.

    Please keep helping!

    -----------
    OK, in the last 10 mins I think I've located the fuel pump and lines (it looks like a small distributor on the underside of the engine and feeds into the front of the carby via a hose (I was looking for an aluminium line!) but no sign of a fuel filter anywhere!

    I think the TDC sensor is actually on the back (not the temp sensor beside the front!) below the large wheel that drives the power steering - do I check timing at the front or back of the block, if at all useful? I checked for spark on the no4 plug last night and it seemed less than 100%, but hard to tell.
    Last edited by The Gonz; 15th August 2004 at 12:40 PM. Reason: So flustered I'm not typing straight

  13. #13
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    Gonz

    The Fuego has an electronic computer controlled timing in the bolt on module with the coil. There is a solid black lead that comes from the front of the module unit that goes down between the rear of the engine and has two 11mm (I seem to reacall) bolts securing the quadrant/sensor above the flywheel. This lead controls the timing pulses as the flywheel turns - cosequently any breakdown in this lead will give erratic information to the computer within the module and can cause misfiring.

    The initial symptoms you describe could well be the start of problems caused by a faulty sensor lead. In my case it seemed to indicate a classic case of fuel starvation it would start and run then after a short while misfire badly and finally stop, and only run if the revs were kept high. Replacement with a new sensor lead cured the problem completely.

    The other thing that is like the symptom you describe is lack of hot air coming through the large corrugated air heater hose that takes heat from the shroud on the offside of the motor and coils around the back of the motor and exits into the bottom intake of the large filter cansister. Without hot air coming to the intake, only cold air gets to the carburettor and with freeway or highway driving it ices up the carby.

    Engine will lose power and the exhaust will fart black clouds of petrol vapour until the car stalls. Afdter sitting for a few minutes the carby de-ices itself and will run normally for about 20 kilometres and then the same problem sets in (carby iced up) and the fuel consumption is horrendus!

    Re-affixing the heat transfer tube fixes the problem.

    My only concern with either diagnosis is the coolant bottle being bone dry! - and the squeaking noise, this could indicate the motor was seizing from lack of coolant but, I would have though it would also have been accompanied by an escape of steam, or hot smell of boiling water before it would effect the running of the motor and apparent well before the pistons eventually score the cylinder bores and the ring tension collapses due to the extreme overheating.

    The still green coolant in the radiator may be an indicator that that latter condition was never reached. Loss of coolant in the bottle, Hot water smells and steam venting should always be investigated fully to avoid later or more expensive damage!

    Most squeaking noises in the fuego motor area are fortunately only the vee belts for the power steering or vee belts for the alternator/air con. running looser than they should.

    As the Fuego has a closed EGR system excess oil can come back from the tube at the top of the rocker cover to the carburettor and foul up the running of the car, but this can usually be seen when a spark plug is removed and the electrode gap is fouled with a black sooty deposit.

    Most of these things are explained in the Haynes manual (not very well in some cases) but sufficient to work your way through.

    The little cans on the carburettor you describe are the solenoids for the Antipost firing system and the Co constant cut-out solenoid. If you have contact with Shane D of Adelaide, I sent a copy of the Australian spec for the Fuego engine EGR setup, I am sure he would share this with you.

    In fact all of the Adelaide Fuego owners should arrange a get-together for an on site social think tank between owners!

    Ken.

    The excess oil at the rear of the motor is usually from the internal oil transfer from engine to head, and any warping from heat may allow the head gasket to leak oil in that location (Offside rear of engine)

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Default Thanks, Ken

    Thanks, mate. The vision of an army of Adelaide AussieFrogs marching up my driveway would definitely bring tears of joy. I'm confident I can discount overheating and I'm working on the TDC circuit at the moment. The only wiring leaving the ignition module goes (3 wires) into a loom along the firewall and also (2 wires) directly to a point below the large wheel driving the power steering and just above the clutch assy - at the back of the block. Is the flywheel there? I kept taking it to mean the harmonic balancer I used to check for timing on the Holdens. Anyway, I'm trying to make sense of what I've read here in the past (eg Mistereno) about the TDC. At the moment I can't get a decent look at it - poor angle and hoses in the way.

    Something else - no heat transfer shroud, no tube going to the bottom of the air canister - and it's been that way for at least the two years I've had it. That explains the three rather empty looking threaded posts on the exhaust manifold and the two unused hose clamps at the rear and side of the engine bay!

    Boy am I learning fast!
    Last edited by The Gonz; 15th August 2004 at 03:19 PM.

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    As if to illustrate my point that there is often a simple answer to most Fuego incidents, My son rang about and hour ago. "Dad, quick, I've broken down at Johnson and Hoddle..help.." (aren't mobile phones great!!)

    By the time I drove in there he was looking a bit sheepish, he had lifted the bonnet and after checking wiring tubes etc, found that the main lead from the electronic module and the Distributor had fallen out!

    Unfortunately in trying to start it, he had flattened the battery, of course all the music gear never gets turned off, so not much reserve in battery. Ah well I need a spare battery and his is over two years old (or more) so I bought him a new battery from a nearbye service station (it is his birthday after all !!) and bought the old one home to recharge and fit in the spare car.

    At the same time I took the opportunity of checking the expansion bottle, it was low on water so topped it up, checked oil and hydraulic fluid level, both o.k. so he was on his way with little delay!!

    He is a service member of the RACV but still rings Dad first, it's nice to be wanted

    Ken

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    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Default Melbourne born and bred

    ...oh how I miss Melbourne right now - I used to live 3 minures from that spot.

    Turns out my compression guages, dials with rubber nipples, won't fit the deep spark plug holes - that's all I'm doing today, back to grinding bathroom tiles, and a nice little 30km bikeride tomorrow morning!
    Last edited by The Gonz; 16th August 2004 at 07:52 PM.

  17. #17
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    Sounds like it could be one of many things. From a TDC sensor, dead coil to something simple like a loose carby or manifold or a distorted or cracked breather hose causing a massive airleak which has just got worse and now stopped the car.

    Time for someone who knows what they are looking at. Try Olivers and Skinners, Kym Oliver has worked on Fuego's since they were new and knows them from back to front.

    OLIVERS & SKINNERS
    350 Hampstead Rd Clearview 5085
    Ph (08) 8262 3168
    OR... (08) 8262 5571

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    OLIVERS & SKINNERS
    350 Hampstead Rd Clearview 5085
    Ph (08) 8262 3168
    OR... (08) 8262 5571
    Thanks, Simon. Despite the hardship, I'm really appreciating the opportunity to come up to speed at such a blistering pace. I'm more and more convinced it'll be the TDC sensor and I'll be calling Kym tomorrow for some advice/work. Thanks everyone - you should have seen me on the weekend: I had my PC scanning for e-mail notifications every 3 minutes for new AussieFrogs posts and I was constantly moving between garage and study to handle the new advice as it arrived - sitcom stuff!

    Cheers!
    Last edited by The Gonz; 16th August 2004 at 08:26 PM.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Hey guys, waiting for a return call from Kym Oliver. In the meantime, does anyone think my total lack of combustion could be caused by a stretched timing chain or broken down HT leads? I'm drilling an elongated hole so I can adjust the TDC sensor's position, just in case, and using some old holden/ford leads to test the renault HT leads. Any ideas?

  20. #20
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    Unlikely, the timing belt (reinforced rubber not a chain) is unlikely to stretch to a significant length to alter the timing. It either works or it breaks. Also it would be a very rare occurance if the plug leads did all fail at once causing no spark or start.

    If parts are needed, and Kym can't supply, and you can't wait for Caravelle try Intervolks 375 Main North Rd Enfield 82603577. They also sell Renault parts.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    I've taken to the 60km per day on the mountain bike better than I thought I would, and I even took my annual physical fitness test (PFT) and passed after 120Km in the last 48hrs (the only riding I've done in the last 2 yrs) with only 1/2hr to recharge. Even the early starts aren't all that bad - the old dynamo and lights are working at least better than the Fuego

    So I can wait for Caravelle - I just need to know what to ask for!

    Just now I've put the TDC sensor across the multimeter and got a change of resistance from 208 ohms to 180ish when I put it in contact with metal, so I'm going with advance adjustment right now - just done but I could only get a shift of about one timing mark due to the limited room at either end of the TDC sensor's bracket, and still I get lifeless turning over, like CPR without success - so much for that one!

    Thanks, Simon, I've learnt something new about the timing "chain" and one more contact for my little black book.
    Last edited by The Gonz; 18th August 2004 at 02:46 PM.

  22. #22
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    Default Dizzy contact broken!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Hey hey hey! I was in the process of replacing the leads with makeshift ford V8 leads (which I found - oh brother what a professional) when I decided to check the dizzy one more time since the tune-up a week or two ago. The spring loaded carbon centre contact in the dizzy cap was broken!

    I pulled it out of the cap - easy enough, it seems to use the end diameter of the spring to keep it there. The carbon rod very roughly squared off at the exposed end and is precisely 7mm long, not including the small nipple for spring attachment.

    Never been happier to find something actually broken - why didn't I check everything again when I got the car home?

    OK, this may not be the end of it, since HT lead no 3 showed an open circuit on the multimeter, but at least I have something productive to do!
    Last edited by The Gonz; 18th August 2004 at 03:45 PM.

  23. #23
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    Gonz

    Yep, the broken or worn distributor carbon rod will cause rough running, and the lack of heat transfer tube/manifold shroud will also cause icing up of the carby on freeway or Highway driving = very bad running.

    These two may be the root cause of your misfiring etc - at least a good start.

    I wonder about your compression - a rough test would be to take out the plugs and using a piece of dowel with a rubber stopper on the end, block the plug hole and turn the engine on the starter. The cylinder under test should noticeably pop the stopper away as the cylinder compresses - if it doesn't you have deeper trouble and a need to strip the head off. You should be able to get a rough but fair indication of compression comparison if all cylinders are the same, or one is down.

    A technical note that I have for the ignition module fitted to Fuego's list a number of tests - with the two wire connector disconnected from the ignition/coil module after turning the ignition off, Sensor resistor points (4) and (5) (the two wires that plug back into the module) test with ohm meter should read 200 ohms plus or minus 50 ohms if not change the magnetic sensor. if good then check (if accessible) distance between flywheel ( with shim) 1mm plus or minus 0.5 and if incorrect check if sensor is mounted with shouldered screws

    - if not accessible for this check then with the High Tension lead disconnected and engine running at Starter speed check again between points (4) and (5) Flywheel sensor output voltage with voltmeter (at alternating current) -150mV at 800 mV (battery voltage 9 to 10.5V
    or -200mV at 900mV (battery voltage at 10.5 to 12V

    A further test is to place two identical sensors (flywheel end of TDC sensor lead) opposite each other and they should NOT attract one another - if they do replace the magnetic sensor lead.

    If that test is good, then with block connectors (A) (three wire connector) and (B) TDC sensor wire connection connected fit a test bulb (2W max,) between (9) Coil contact plus and (10) Coil contact minus - at starter speed, this bulb should flash. if it doesn't repplace the electronic module

    if good with High Tension lead disconnected and leads (9) and (10) disconnected and ignition OFF check HT coil secondary resistor points (7) (terminal plus on coil) and (12) (AEI secondary HT connection) ohmmeter reading 2000 to 12000 ohms if Not change HT coil. if good with leads (9) and (10) disconnected andf ignition off, check HT coil primary resistor points (7) (terminal plus on coil) and (8) Terminal plus on coil ohmmeter 0.4 to 0.8 ohms, if incorrect change HT coil ...

    Now for Difficult to start but no incidents when running after performing visual inspection of spark plug, leads, distributor cap, and High Tension lead to Distributor. Disconnect the HT lead at the distributor cap end .

    Place the lead 2 cm away from Engine block.. Note do not allow the HT lead to touch the Electronic Module

    Activate starter test that the HT spark is regular (if good go on to check carburation, mechanical condition, engine, initial timing. if Incorrect check module fee 9.5volts at point (13) (lower part of coil terminal) che3ck battery charge, change battery if o.k. check sensor resistance at points (4) and (5) (between the two connectors that connect to the ingnition module) ohmmeter should read 200 ohms plus tolerance plus or minus 50 ohms, if incorrect replace the sensor lead.
    (same as before) etc. also says to clean face of the sensitive sensor as dirt on it could effect operation - sensor on flywheel should not attract sensor on lead.

    Checking mechanical condition of vacuum capsule (the thing sealed with white mastic) - (note don't interfere with capsule setup on ignition module as it is easily stuffed!! )

    Let engine run steadily at 300 rpm, disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the capsule on the electronic ignition module.

    If the engine speed decreases the capsule is good - if it does not then check the condition of the vacuum hose, if hose is good change the electronic module.

    Bit complicated I admit, but thats straight from the Regie Nationale manual.

    If you look at the illustration on Haynes manual page 138 (ours do not have the anti knock lead D fitted) the 4 & five terminal are the only ones connected on ours and the tacho pickup ) The #13 connector mentioned in the text above is the second terminal beside the No 7 terminal illustrated on page 138 - otherwise numbering seems the same as I have quoted in the text above.

    Hope that doesn't confuse too much.!!

    Ken

    Ken

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    The same manual I quoted above also gives you the advance curve set up according to the code on the electronic ignition module.

    On the April 85 one that I am currently stripping it has a D type module with Renix code of RE 020 - according to this manual this module was used on the 1363 model Fuegos with the J6R 714 Engine (Shows Switzerland as place where this configuration was used) (Maybe there are some new Renix ignition modules lying around in Switzerland!!)

    The advance curve for the D type RE 020 is as follows - On a normally asperated engine with the vacuum capsule disconnected and at idling speed of 850 rpm the advance in degrees is set at 6 to 9 degrees at 1550 RPM idling speed the advance is 9 to 12 degrees, at an idling speed of 4050 the advance is 22 to 29 degrees.

    Under Vacuum check it states to vary the vacuum between 0 and 300 mbar, keeping the engine speed at 4550 plus or minus 100 rpm. the advance should vary by more than 4 degrees.

    The tests are carried out using a diagnostic bay or tool M.S. 760 or an RX3 and a vacuum pump, the given test speeds on the vehicle have a tolerance of plus or minus 100 rpm. (don't ask me what these are as I have never had access to them!!)

    It looks like the Renault 20, 1277 model with J6R 704 engine and J6R 705 engine also used the same module advance and the swiss Ren 25 with a J6R 760 engine also used the RE 020, also the Espace S112 J6R 234 engine as well - don't know if those models were imported to Australia.

    Probably some useless information for the non technical minded - but you never know!

    Ken

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Default Not over yet

    None of this is useless, Ken. Bring it on! I'm building a rather comprehensive "wisdom document" and your bit adds nicely. BTW, I'm doing all this without a Haynes manual

    At the moment, after getting it going with a new set of ignition leads and distributor cap and rotor straight out of Caravelle imports, I had it running for 20 minutes, time enough to get it warm enough to turn on the single radiator fan for about a minute (the other was jammed against the radiator when I got the car and it didn't go, so I removed it) and more than enough to allow me to do a quick idle/mixture tune to have it purring nicely.

    I then drove down to Seaside Tennis Club, parked it, got back in after 5 minutes, got away nicely, drove down towards Henley South Tennis Club - and got as far as Henley Beach Rd before it started missing and then outright died again. This time it was a definite I don't want to go kind'a no-go. It felt more like the ignition had given up than anything else. While I still had the speed I tried getting it going again using a rolling second gear but - nup - Renny has left the building - total running time: about 40 minutes!

    I need more eyes to see if there's any spark this time while I turn the engine. Anyway, wife needs phone line, back soon.
    -------------
    Well, as I was saying, I checked all the bits that I had recently replaced and even used the old ones again (got a lift home, then rode down with the tools and bits in a backpack). Still no go, just like at first a week ago.

    Once I get someone else to check with me, I'll know for sure but until I do, the Fuego is sitting quietly on Henley Beach Rd and I'm thinking no spark out of the ignition unit for whatever reason
    Last edited by The Gonz; 21st August 2004 at 05:20 PM.

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